Imagine buttered pan-seared pineapple, warm as a garnish, and chilled as juice in a sensuous champagne coupe. Then let us look back at some of the legacies of the American cocktail — rum and bitters — which are further expressed through the addition of star ruby grapefruits and maraschino liqueur (which was, incidentally, Ernest Hemingway’s preference for his daiquiri).

1 serving

Ingredients

1 ounce of cachaca (agricultural rum)
1/2 tablespoon of maraschino liqueur
1 1/2 ounces of juice from pan-seared pineapple brushed with butter
2/3 ounces of grapefruit juice (recommended cultivar: Florida Star Ruby)
dash of angostura bitters

For the pan-seared pineapple with butter:
2 tablespoons of butter (recommended: grade AA & First Quality butter)
1/4 of whole pineapple or 8-10 quarter-slices (recommended: high sugar cultivars like Kona Sugarloaf)

Total: about 3 1/2 ounces per serving (guide for glassware)

Small triangular wedge of pan-seared pineapple for garnish

Equipment

Pan
Utility knife and chopping board
2-piece Boston shaker
Hawthorne strainer
Muddler
Funnel
Sieve
Glass bottle (perhaps reused from finished spirits, at least 7 ounces in capacity)
Champagne saucer glass (5 ounces), for service

Preparation

Chill the glassware and spirits until ready for use. Wash fruits thoroughly.

Prepare pan-seared pineapple with butter:
Skin the fresh pineapple, retaining the quarter-slices nearest to the base — the sweetest part. Melt butter in pan and then sear the pineapple slices over low to medium heat until lightly caramelized. Put aside to cool and remove excess butter.

Once cooled, place pineapple slices, one at a time, into the glass half of the Boston shaker. With the flat side of the muddler placed into the base, apply downward pressure using the insides of your palm. Muddle until most solid ingredients are well broken up. Using a funnel and sieve, strain the mixture into the glass bottle. Repeat and then refrigerate till ready for use.

Prepare the garnish:
Reheat a pan-seared slice of pineapple right before use. Cut to a proportionate size and triangular shape. Place along the rim of the glassware while still warm, right before use.

Prepare the cocktail:
For the grapefruit, keep at room temperature and cut perpendicularly across the segments for optimum juice. Juicing should be done right before use, while pulp should be strained out. Measure the required ingredients into the glass half of the Boston shaker.

Top up the metal half of the Boston shaker (about 3/4 full) with ice cubes. Place the glass half over the metal portion while pouring in the ingredients. Give a firm knock on the base of the glass half with your palm, ensuring it forms a tight fit with the metal portion. Shake and chill cocktail shaker with firm, concise and vigorous strokes until your hands can’t take the cold.

Holding the metal half at the bottom, knock it firmly around the rim to loosen and remove the glass half. Strain the contents of the metal half into the glassware using the Hawthorne strainer.

Serve immediately, very chilled, in contrast with the warm garnish.

[Flavor Impressionist's Notes: 1 ounce is equivalent to 30 milliliter (ml), 1/2 ounce is equivalent to 15 milliliter (ml), 2/3 ounce is equivalent to 20 milliliter (ml), 1/2 tablespoon is equivalent to 7.5 milliliter (ml), 1 dash is equivalent to 1.875 milliliter (ml) or 1/8 teaspoon.]

Variation

If Fee Brothers orange bitter is available, replace the angostura with it.

Recipe and photo by Damian Sim

INSPIRATION FOR SUMMER IN THE WOODS
BY DAMIAN SIM

[Note: This recipe was originally published in July 2007, when we were off on a fun tangent pairing "Main Ingredients" and "Indulgences." Damian was always up to the challenge -- though sometimes we made it a difficult one!]

July’s theme of fish and summer squash did not present any obvious inspirations at first. Furthermore, summer squash, or even squash as a whole, was not something too familiar to the Asian palate. Rather than shy away from it, however, I found summer squash to actually be quite a compelling challenge.

In Native American lore, squash is one of the “Three Sisters” planted by their forefathers, the other two being corn and beans. Summer squash (also known as vegetable marrows) are harvested immature during their growing seasons, and include courgettes and zucchini, to name a few. Known as askoot asquash in Algonquin tongue, it literally translates to ‘eaten green’. Some of these could be described as having a mild nutty taste akin to fresh corn.

This brought to mind the wonderful marriage of freshly steamed corn with lightly salted butter…delicious. It somewhat reminded me of the grilled pineapple I recently had in a Brazilian Churrascaria restaurant, which had a subtle buttery caramel sensation to the flavor. Why not just buttered pineapples? Hmm…not a bad idea!

For the convenience of those who may have trouble grilling at home, another preparation was to pan-sear the pineapple in butter. The sweetest portions of a pineapple are selected, though not an over-ripe fruit as the light acidity offers a nice balance. We then extract the voluptuous juice through muddling once it has cooled down.

With its major influence in the history of spirits and cocktails in America, rum was selected as the base of this recipe design. The Brazilian cachaça style was chosen in recognition of one of the main inspirations behind this cocktail. Star Ruby grapefruits added further zest to cut through the buttered pineapple, with the ‘bright’ cherry of maraschino liqueur contributing to a certain lift and complexity in the high notes. This combination was inspired by Ernest Hemingway’s preference for his daiquiri cocktail. A literary legend, he once won a bet in which he wrote a complete story in six words. (“For sale. Baby shoes. Never worn.”)

The nostalgia continued with the use of bitters, an essential ingredient in the 19th Century definition of cocktails, and the use of the sensuous champagne coupe/saucer to present the libation. Chilled swiftly and with vigor, the floating ice chips contrast sharply with a wedge of warm buttered pineapple garnish.

There is nothing more refreshing on a hot, sticky summer day than an ice cold beverage. Reminiscent of lemonade, but infused with fresh ginger and lemongrass, this succulently sweet and spicy cooler is perfect for all of your summer gatherings. Since we included no alcohol in the base recipe, this gingery fizz is the perfect pucker for all.

8 servings

Ingredients

For the ginger syrup:
3 cups of water
2 cups of sugar
6 inch piece of ginger, chopped

For the Fizzy Ginger:
Ginger syrup
1 Liter sparkling water, chilled
Juice of 3-4 lemons (depending on size)
8 thin slices of candied ginger (to garnish each glass)

Preparation

Prepare the ginger syrup:
Combine the water, sugar, and ginger in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium high heat, then reduce heat and simmer until sugar is dissolved, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, cover, and steep the mixture for 1 hour to allow the flavors to infuse the syrup. Strain the syrup into a pitcher, discarding the ginger. Chill, covered, until cold for at least 1 hour.

Prepare the Fizzy Ginger:
Add the sparkling water and lemon juice to the pitcher with the cooled syrup and stir well. Divide among tall, chilled glasses over ice cubes and garnish each drink with a slice of candied ginger.

[Chef’s Note: The syrup can be made a week ahead and chilled, but be sure to add the sparkling water just before serving or the drink will lose its fizz. Feel free to use the ginger syrup in other applications, too, as it is also a great base in which to toss fresh fruit. Also, add it to hot or iced teas for a summery kick.]

Variations

Add approximately 1½ cups (more or less to taste) of good quality gin or rum for a deliriously delicious adult libation.

There are many tasty variations that can work well in the Fizzy Ginger. Add 2 stalks of lemongrass (pounded and sliced to release flavor) at the same time as the ginger. Discard along with the ginger when straining. On the other hand, purée ¼ cup of strawberries (or other berries) in a blender with a few tablespoons of sugar, depending on the ripeness of the fruit. Add the purée to the bottom of a glass before adding the Fizzy Ginger. Stir to create a cool summer treat. Lastly, add two cardamom pods (pounded to release flavor) at the same time as the ginger into the syrup, discarding them when straining.

Recipe and photo by Monica Glass

The light mist green of pistachio Persian fairy floss crowns this elixir of Dutch gin, saffron, ginger, pistachio ice cream and Ran Watte Ceylon tea. With exquisite delicacy, and perhaps even a certain brutality with its history of royal patrons, pistachio feels like childhood love. Savor the complexity and subtlety of this cocktail, like a deep misty magical forest. Never grow old, and remember the child in us all.

1 serving

Ingredients

1 1/2 ounce of genever gin (jonge/young style)
3 ounces of saffron & ginger-infused single-region Ran Watte Ceylon tea
1 ounce of vanilla-infused cane syrup (see recipe below)
3 ounces of pistachio ice cream

For the saffron & ginger tea:
1 cup of pure/distilled water
1 tea bag (Ceylon tea)
2 inch of fresh young ginger
1 smidgen of freshly ground saffron

For the vanilla cane syrup:
1 cup cane sugar
1 cup water
1 vanilla pod

Total: about 8 1/2 ounces per serving (guide for glassware)

Small bunch of pistachio-flavored Persian fairy floss/pashmak for garnish

Equipment

Utility knife and cutting board
Pot (around 1 quart capacity) with cover
Grater
Teacup and lid
Fine-sieve strainer
2-piece Boston shaker
Hawthorn strainer
Bar spoon
Poco grande glass (12-16 ounces), for service

Preparation

Chill the glassware in the refrigerator.

For the ginger-infused single-region Ceylon tea:
Boil the pure water. Cut about 1/3 inch of the ginger, remove the skin and wash thoroughly. Lightly grill the saffron to remove the moisture before pounding it into powder. Grate and place the ginger into the teacup together with the saffron and tea bag. Once the water starts boiling, fill the teacup and cover with lid. Remove the bag after 5 minutes (half the infusion time if the tea is to be drunk on its own), and replace lid. Leave aside for at least 45-60 minutes with the ginger still in the teacup, and refrigerate until ready for use.

Prepare the vanilla syrup:
Make a simple syrup by combining the cane sugar, vanilla pod and water in a small saucepan, and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat and allow to cool. Chill in the refrigerator. This syrup will keep for two weeks in a sealed airtight container.

Prepare the cocktail:
Add the ginger tea, syrup and gin into the glass half of the Boston shaker and fill the metal half at least 2/3 full with ice. Empty the contents of the glass half into the metal half, and stir for at least 30 seconds.

Strain into the ice-filled glassware, top up with the ice cream and Persian fairy floss.

[Flavor Impressionist’s notes: 1 ounce is equivalent to 30 milliliter (ml), 1/2 ounce is equivalent to 15 milliliter (ml), 2 inches is equivalent to 5 centimeter (cm). A smidgen holds 1/32 teaspoon, or 1/2 pinch. 2 smidgens = 1 pinch; 2 pinches = 1 dash; 8 dashes = 1 teaspoon.

If pistachio ice cream made from Sicilian pistachio is used, the color will be a rich green. This offers a richer flavor, though it is less easily available.

Persian fairy floss, also known as pashmak (or pismaniye in Turkey, its country of origin) is made of sugar, flour and sesame oil. It is lighter in texture and more delicate in flavor than cotton candy floss. Add at the very last minute before serving as humidity/air contact spoils its silken texture, as does moisture from the ice cream.]

If available, it is preferable to use organic produce for the ginger.

Consider pre-made products for the ginger Ceylon tea and the vanilla cane sugar.

Genever gin is the original style of gin from Holland. It is significantly softer than the currently predominant London Dry style in the market. The young version is used in this recipe design.]

Serve immediately.

Variation

Reduce the sugar syrup by 1 teaspoon for a stronger tasting libation.

Recipe and photo by Damian Sim

INSPIRATION FOR MAGIC CAROUSEL
A Note from Flavor Impressionist Damian Sim

Cranberries, the quintessential red hue in the American Thanksgiving celebration, have a reputation of being a favorite of cranes, bears and even cows. They have been enjoyed by the Artic people for over a millennia, and currently enjoy a healthy image with their powerful antioxidant properties.

Pistachio was selected as the base of this recipe design to pair with the cranberries. Known since antiquity (6760BC), the pistachio is reputed to have been in the legendary hanging gardens of Babylon (700BC), and one of only two nuts mentioned in the Old Testament. It was considered a delicacy and a favorite of royalties and the elite.

Pistachio was interpreted in the form of delicious pistachio ice cream, and crowning this decadence was delicate pistachio flavored Persian fairy floss (pashmak). These flavors are evocative of fun memories at the amusement parks, while the pashmak added a touch of sophistication with its silken texture.

Ran Watte (“Golden Garden” in Sinhala, the main language in Sri Lanka) single-region Ceylon tea is grown on the highest elevation of the island at 6000 feet above sea level. This elegant tea has a citrus undertone and a wonderful, long finish. Considered to be the top boutique Ceylon tea, the most precious spice in the world, saffron, was infused with it. Ginger, another known stomach settler, added a bite to the light complex flavors while pairing beautifully with the pistachio.

A vintage style of gin, jonge (young) Genever gin, was chosen for its softness (compared to the typical London Dry style), while having a full-bodied malty flavor. This was the original style savored when gin was first created. The vanilla cane syrup rounded off the tannic and bitter elements from the tea, saffron and gin. The bouquet of pistachio, mingled effortlessly with the saffron, is the first scent impressions. These are followed by lingering subtle nuances from all the elements, with surprising depth as one enjoys the libation further.

The light mist green of the pashmak against the cream hue of the cocktail sets a tranquil image; like the backdrop of childhood myths, of rich imaginations and magic. Never grow old, and remember the child in us all with the “Magic Carousel.”

a test kitchen dossier

Cocktail party: A gathering held to enable forty people to talk about themselves at the same time. The man who remains after the liquor is gone is the host.
- Fred Allen

Origin
The origin of the term “cocktail” itself is rife with rumor and speculation, so we’ll leave that to the drink historians. We are far more concerned with putting the cocktail into practice. However, for reference, the term was included in the magazine The Balance in May 1806: “Cocktail is a stimulating liquor, composed of spirits of any kind, sugar, water, and bitters – it is vulgarly called bittered sling and is supposed to be an excellent electioneering potion.”

Description
Ah, the cocktail. It is the introduction to “happy hour,” the ice-breaker, the way to finish a long day and start a magnificent evening. Cocktails can be as simple as scotch on the rocks or as complex as one’s imagination will allow, so it is the one type of beverage that allows for utter creativity.

Some cocktails have fallen strictly under the umbrella of “girlie,” i.e. the Cosmopolitan, sweet martinis (chocolate et. al.) and fruit-laced concoctions, while others are very “masculine.” Think of the dry martini, gin and tonics or any kind of strong spirit. We tend to stay away from lines of gender demarcation and bring all varieties of cocktails together for our favorite type of gathering: the cocktail party.

The Cocktail Party
Here’s where we get to the good stuff. Cocktails are so popular that entire parties have been crafted around them, and we are partial to such gatherings this time of year. Cocktail parties are easiest on the schedule of the holiday cook; they do not require the critical timing of service or individual plating, and most dishes can be made in advance. We thus prefer to set up a bar, put out some hors d’oeuvres and let our guests help themselves to the bounty.

If your party is scheduled to take place around the dinner hour, understand that people will probably arrive hungry for dinner. This doesn’t mean you need to feed them dinner, of course, but you should be prepared to serve hors d’oeuvres that are substantial enough to get them through the next couple of hours. There is nothing worse than leaving a party with a hunger pain.

We have an entire collection of Appetizers to fuel your inspiration, and those can be served along with the crudités and/or cheese boards. Use your imagination and have fun with the creative process.

You can estimate recipe quantities by assuming 4 portions per person for light dishes and 3 portions for heartier fare, provided you also serve other nibbles like crudités and a cheese board. (There really is no reason why you shouldn’t, as they are a snap to put together.) However, if you are truly reluctant to do so, double the portions of hors d’oeuvres per person to be safe. Also, if you have vegetarian guests, be sure to include enough portions to compensate for the other dishes they will not be eating, and/or add more to the crudités and cheese board.

The flow of your cocktail party menu should be as follows:

Crudités/Light Hors d’Oeuvres
Hearty Hors d’Oeuvres
Cheese Board/Dessert Items

Here is an example:

Light hors d’oeuvres:
Crudités with Aoili Garni
Smoked Trout with Horseradish Crème Fraîche on Toast Points
Eggs with Caviar and Salmon Rosettes

Hearty hors d’oeuvres:
Lobster Bisque Shooters
Mini Savory Bites
Grilled Lemongrass Shrimp
Grilled Beef with Spicy Satay Dip
Cheese Board (optional)

Dessert items:
Cheese Board
and/or
Thai Curry Truffles
Olive Oil Brownies with Toasted Walnuts
Pecan Shortbread
Lavender Pound Cake with Lemon Glaze

The flow of dishes above accounts for two important considerations: (1) early guests have something to nibble until the bulk of the crowd arrives; and (2) hot food can be presented when you have the maximum crowd there, so it can be enjoyed at its peak of temperature and freshness.

We recommend serving the light hors d’oeuvres for the first 20-30 minutes, as most people tend to be “fashionably” late — this is a judgment call you will have to make according to the size of the crowd at that time.

In case you have not yet perused our Entertaining section, our article The Magic of Ambience is full of tips and tricks to set the right mood for your gathering, including lighting, music and table displays.

Bar Setup
This is the critical component. For a cocktail party, you will need to decide whether there will be a bartender or self-serve setup. If it is the former, and the barman is a professional, he will likely have a repertoire he prefers to serve. For our purposes here, however, we will assume a self-serve setup.

At its most basic, your bar should include the following items:

Liquors
Gin
Vodka
Rum
Whiskey (at least Bourbon and Scotch)
Vermouth
Tequila (Reposado)

Accompaniments/Mixers
Tonic water
Club soda
Coke
7-Up
Sour mix
Common fruit juices – fresh, or those not from concentrates (i.e. lime, cranberry, grapefruit, etc.)
Lime wedges
Lemon wedges
Cocktail olives (you may want to keep the juice in a small glass container for dirty martinis)
Ice (app. 1 pound per guest per hour (for about 3 servings)

[Mixologist's Notes: Though troublesome, buying a bunch of fun ice molds and making your own ice with mineral water would also be a nice touch. Also, carbonated mixers in cans are easier to chill and manage.]

Accessories
Wine glasses (champagne, red, white)
Cocktail glasses
Cocktail shaker(s)
Stirrers
Cocktail napkins

[Mixologist's Note: You may also wish to consider disposable plasticware shaped just like the cocktail and wine glassware and/or champagne flutes.]

For those who might prefer wine to cocktails, it is best to include an assortment of red, white, and sparkling wines (see Alder’s favorite $10 wines for some suggestions).

Alternative Approaches

Pre-mixes
An alternative to the basic setup suggested above would be to offer about five of the most popular types of cocktails in your city, and simply set up the bar according to that (or if you are serving a crowd of close friends, you might already know which types they prefer.)

In this instance, the alcoholic components could be premixed in a bottle, while the rest of the ingredients could be prepared in another (except for carbonated items). This way, the alcoholic pre-mixes that are not consumed could be used for another occasion, as the more perishable non-alcoholic portions are mixed separately.

For example, in our Lychee Martini recipe, each serving requires about 1¾ ounces of the alcoholic pre-mix (lychee liqueur, vanilla flavored vodka and Cointreau), and about 2 ounces of the non-alcoholic pre-mix (lychee brine blended with fresh lychees). For a self-serve bar, label each bottle with simple instructions and the amount required per serving, and color-code those that are used for the same recipe.

3-Course Cocktails
Another possibility to explore is to match the cocktails with the flow of the food. Just like aperitifs are traditionally used as liquid appetizers, one might explore refreshing and/or tart cocktail recipes in the first course (i.e. Lychee Martini, Mojito, Cosmopolitan), followed by stronger & heavier styles (i.e. Pina Colada, Godmother, Manhattan).

For the first course cocktail, start experimenting with tart ingredients such as raspberries, pomegranate or cranberries, and refreshing items such as mint, grapefruit, lemongrass and lychee.

The third course would be great with champagne-based cocktails (i.e. Clove Spiced Champagne, Bellini) with sharp, distinctive notes to add a celebratory note, perhaps for a Christmas or New Year’s countdown toast.

Home-made
If you have the time and are feeling creative, you can even prepare your own flavored vodkas, i.e. Granny Smith apple and cinnamon. From these bases, you could have a wild adventure of exotic martinis.

Recipes
Our Cocktails section has a full listing of recipes, including non-alcoholic (virgin) options, so go and explore!

Savor the sublime sweetness of chestnut elevated by the wonderful fresh blooms of Hendricks gin, accented with a touch of traditional falernum syrup and paired with provocative red currants. Love & Honor exudes powerful emotions under a veil of understated composure…

1 serving

Ingredients

1 ounce of Hendricks gin (a London dry style with the unique addition of rose petals and cucumbers)
3 ounces of chestnut solution
2/3 ounce of falernum syrup

For the falernum:
Zest of 5 limes
5 cloves
1/8 teaspoon bitter almond essence
16 2/3 ounces overproof rum (at least 140 proof)
16 2/3 ounces cane sugar syrup

For the chestnut solution:
2 1/3 ounces of chestnut puree
4 1/3 ounces of spring water

Total: about 5 ounces per serving (guide for glassware)

Small bunch of Dutch red currants for garnish

Equipment

Fine grater
Funnel
Glass container (around 1/2 quart capacity) with cover
Pot (around 1/2 quart capacity) with cover
Stirring spoon
Cheesecloth
Jug (for filtered chestnut solution)
Glass half of 2-piece Boston shaker
Hawthorn strainer
Bar spoon
Small martini glass (5-6 ounces), for service

Preparation

Chill the glassware in the fridge.

For the falernum:
Except for the sugar syrup, add all ingredients into the glass bottle and macerate for 24-48 hours. Cover and leave aside in cool dark place. After maceration, filter out the solids using a cheesecloth, then mix in sugar syrup with the rest of the liquids. Cover and leave aside until ready to use.

For the chestnut solution:
Mix the chestnut and spring water in the pot and place on low heat until simmering. Place cheesecloth over opening/mouth of jug, and pour chestnut solution into jug. Squeeze out residual liquid within the cheesecloth. Leave aside to cool for at least 30 minutes, then refrigerate until ready for use.

Prepare the cocktail:
Add the gin, chestnut solution and falernum into the glass half of the Boston shaker and fill with ice, at least 2/3 full. Stir for at least 20 seconds and strain into the glassware using the hawthorn strainer.

Serve immediately.

[Flavor Impressionist's notes: 1 ounce is equivalent to 30 milliliter (ml), 1/3 ounce is equivalent to 10 milliliter (ml). 1/2 quart is equivalent to 470 milliliter (ml), 1/8 teaspoon is equivalent to 0.625 milliliter (ml).

Falernum is a sweet syrup used in Caribbean drinks, with both alcoholic and non-alcoholic versions.

If available, it is preferable to use organic produce for the lime and cloves. And while you are at it, use your favorite spring water to create the ice for this cocktail.]

Recipe and photo by Damian Sim

INSPIRATION FOR LOVE & HONOR
A Note from Flavor Impressionist Damian Sim

Chestnut enjoys an old tradition of being ground into flour in Europe, and is thought to represent chastity in Christianity, while in Japan it symbolizes success — and particularly during the New Year, mastery and strength. The flavor exhibits a sublime sweetness, like a bulging dewdrop, gentle with a sense of anticipation.

Hendricks gin was selected for its particular ocean-fresh floral journey on the palate, offering a burst of colors around the chestnut portrait. One may enjoy this cocktail with bamboo clams, or even pralines after dinner.

The traditional almond element in the latter inspired the use of falernum syrup in the recipe design, itself flaunting a touch of bitter almonds, relaxing among its tropical companions of over-proof rum, lime zest, cane sugar and spices such as cloves. With a great reputation for sustenance, almonds were said to be one of the first foods eaten by man. Among the Chinese it enjoys a somewhat poetic, somber image of feminine beauty and sadness.

This transient flavor memory should best be savored well chilled through the respectful ritual of the classic dry martini — stirred and strained. Along this path we place the wonderfully tart red currants, a bright vermilion garnish that just stops us in our tracks. Like the makeup on the lips of the Japanese geisha, or the white fabric being used to clean the blood off the samurai warrior’s sword, it exudes powerful emotions under a veil of understated composure. Sip the secrets of countless stories, hinted at with this potion of “Love & Honor.”

A heavy cocktail, much like a hearty soup, was created to the tune of the festive season. It reveals itself, as “Fields of Gold.” Corn paired with the musky sweetness of honeydew melon, leads the way in this unusual drink, which highlights the cocoa flavor of the vodka and rounded cane flavor of the white rum. The consistency is thick, so try this as an alcoholic intermezzo!

4 servings

Ingredients

1 cup freshly steamed sweet corn kernels
3 ounces freshly diced raw avocado
12 ounces freshly juiced honeydew melon
3 ounces white rum
2 ounces chocolate-flavored Russian vodka

Total: about 21 ounces, or 5 ounces per serving (guide for glassware)

Avocado, for garnish

Equipment

Blender
Ice cube tray, small cubes
Four rock glasses (8-9 ounces), for service

Preparation

Prepare at least 8 hours in advance. Chill the garnish until ready for use.

Prepare the corn:
After shucking the corn, clean off any silk under running tap water. Place the corn on a steam rack over boiling water, and steam covered for about 10-15 minutes. Use a corn holder at one end to hold the corn firmly while you slice off the corn from the cob with a knife. Leave to cool.

Make the cocktail:
Remove the pit and skin from the avocado, and dice the flesh. Juice about ½ of a honeydew melon to extract 12 ounces of juice. Reserve 6 ounces, and mix the remaining 6 ounces together with the avocado, corn, rum and chocolate vodka in the blender. Blend to a very smooth consistency.

Freeze half of this mixture in the ice cube tray keeping the remainder in the fridge. When ready to serve, remove the frozen cocktail cubes and crush in the blender with the remaining 6 ounces of freshly squeezed honeydew melon.

Pour the mixture equally into the rock glasses, and garnish with the avocado.

Serve immediately.

Recipe and photo by Damian Sim

INSPIRATION FOR FIELDS OF GOLD
BY DAMIAN SIM

This month’s ingredients of turkey and sage both share centuries-old histories with Man, which presents a compelling historic perspective from which to take inspiration, rather than the expected gastronomic angles. Similar ingredients such as corn, avocado and cocoa were chosen, from which a hearty drink was created for the festive season.

Honeydew melon, with its sweet muskiness, together with light rum, holds the other flavors together, especially the corn. The avocado mainly contributes to the creaminess while adding a touch of nuttiness.

The thoughts of children having fun in the open green fields served as a canvas onto which this cocktail was created. With corn as the leading flavor, I imagined a vision of “Fields of Gold.”

We prefer our margaritas on the rocks, in their traditional glory, so skip the blender and shake, shake, shake! Given the simplicity of this cocktail, the quality of the ingredients is the most important contributing factor to the flavor of the drink. This is not the time to use bargain liquors! The first recipe is the classic version, but we’ve also developed quite a love for the Partida margarita, which is simplicity at its finest (it’s also the best we’ve ever had, bar none).

Makes one cocktail

Ingredients

1 ounce premium Tequila
1 1/3 ounces Cointreau
2/3 ounce freshly squeezed lime juice
Coarse salt
Lime wedge for garnish

Preparation

Rub the rim of a margarita or martini glass with a lime wedge and dip upside down into a saucer of coarse salt.

Add the Tequila, Cointreau and lime juice to a cocktail shaker that has been filled with large ice cubes. Shake until your hands can’t take the cold for one second more, then strain into the glass. Serve immediately.

Partida Margarita

Ingredients

1 1/2 oz. Partida tequila (we recommend Blanco for this)
Juice of one lime
3/4 oz. agave nectar
3/4 oz. pure water

Preparation

Shake all ingredients in cocktail shaker with ice. Taste. Add more lime juice for additional tartness, or more agave nectar for additional sweetness.

Serve in a glass on the rocks. No salt, no garnish.

This cocktail embraces a respect for the simple harmony between lemon and raw salmon, rediscovered through a cocktail canvas, with the richly marbled salmon as a garnish. The gentle yellow potion hides what depth thyme has given, though only from the eyes. A sweet balance of lychee and banana flashes across the palate. Not unlike a citrus herbal seasoning for fish, perhaps this fruity gin-based version might actually be used as one?!

1 serving

Ingredients

1 1/3 ounces of fresh lemon juice
1 1/3 ounces of lychee brine (from canned lychee fruits)
2/3 ounce of fresh banana (recommended cultivar: gros michel)
4/5 teaspoon of freshly chopped thyme (recommended cultivar: garden thyme)
1 ounce of Plymouth gin (a unique gin recipe that uses sweet orange peels instead of bitter ones)
2/3 ounce of lychee liqueur
Slice of salmon sashimi for garnish (recommended: wild salmon, which has a less fatty mouth-feel)

See Mixologist’s notes regarding the measurements above.

Total: about 5 ounces per serving (guide for glassware)

Equipment

Glass half of the Boston shaker
3-piece Cobbler/cocktail shaker
Citrus juicer and cup
Muddler
Utility knife and chopping board for herbs (preferably a mezzaluna hachoir set)
Small bowl and fork for banana (preferably garlic press or potato ricer)
Fine strainer
Strainer (hawthorn)
Cocktail pick
Champagne saucer glassware (6-7 ounces), for service

Preparation

Chill the glassware, garnish (except lemon) and alcoholic ingredients until ready for use.

Prepare the fruits and herbs:
Squeeze a small lemon, ideally room temperature, into a cup. Finely chop a small handful of fresh thyme leaves. Using a garlic press, mash small portions of the banana flesh into a small bowl.

Make the cocktail:
Measure the required amounts of the above items into the glass half of the Boston shaker. With the flat side of the muddler placed into the base, apply downward pressure using the insides of your palm. Muddle until the most solid ingredients are well broken up, and filter through the fine strainer into the 3-piece cobbler shaker.

Add the rest of the ingredients into the cobbler shaker, and top up (about ¾ full) with ice cubes, preferably with the largest possible ice cubes. Attach the top half with the built-in strainer, followed by the cap/lid (this sequence prevents too much air from being trapped inside). Shake and chill the cocktail shaker with firm and vigorous strokes until your hands can’t take the cold.

Strain into glassware and garnish with the freshest possible slice of salmon sashimi (rolled around a cocktail pick).

[Mixologist’s notes: 1 teaspoon is equivalent to 5 milliliter (ml), 4/5 teaspoon is equivalent to approximately 4 milliliter (ml); 1 ounce is equivalent to 30 milliliter (ml), 1/3 ounce is equivalent to 10 milliliter (ml), 2/3 ounce is equivalent to 20 milliliter (ml). A mezzaluna hachoir is a half moon-shaped herb chopper blade usually used with a concave chopping board.]

Serve immediately.

Recipe and photo by Damian Sim

INSPIRATION FOR EPIPHANY
BY DAMIAN SIM

Taking the cue from a salmon theme, the first thing that came to mind was salmon sashimi (quality Japanese sliced raw salmon), which sometimes comes with lemon between the salmon slices that leaves a most delectable crisp tinge in the palate.

Inspired to recreate this experience through a cocktail, lemon served as the culinary canvas for this new recipe. As for the melt-in-your-mouth (when the quality is really good) salmon sashimi, it took the role of the garnish beautifully with its marbling against a rich flamingo-orange hue.

Maintaining the light flavors, lychee and banana were used to balance the lemon, with the latter also adding a little more body to the recipe. Almost like a lemon & herb seasoning used for fish, the lemony thyme was added to give a certain depth to the recipe. Plymouth gin, with its sweet herbal aromatics and smoothness was the natural choice as the spirit base.

A classic Champagne saucer presents the cocktail interpretation of the salmon and lemon experience in a moment of clarity – a harmony of simple elements. Perhaps the recipe might even be used as an actual seasoning for fish?!

Article originally published in January 2007.

Provocachic, the bespoke cocktail company of our friend and CMN contributor Damian Sim, has just been published as one of the front-page news in We Are World Class, a global cocktail program helmed by leading figures Dale DeGroff and Chef Marco Pierre White.

*The images for “The Show Must Go On” and “The Green Fairy” are works by 5PF Studio.

Provocachic presents the latest recipe designs, inspired by an exhibition of Christian Lacroix (French haute couture fashion), his life, his creative process and designs in the world of theatre costumes.

Hands-on, 2-hours, two recipes, Veuve Clicquot champagne, quality ingredients, finger-food, fun, creativity and a touch of history. At $35, and limited to 40 discerning palates, we would recommend that you book now!

* (3-5) p.m.
* 16 May, Saturday
* Ground floor, The Salon
* National Museum of Singapore

THE SHOW MUST GO ON

Inspired by the passion of performers and stories of the human condition, a hot-blooded hue was crafted, not unlike the Carmen gypsy costume designed by Christian Lacroix. The vermilion hue also reflects the soul of the bullfights (corridas) that he grew up with. Arles (France) was also infused with the magic of nature and romance of traditions & history, and tomatoes on the vine intuitively came to mind.

Baby Roma fully ripened on the vine was selected for its rich flavour, of which only the juice from the pulp (the umami at the core is up to 8 times that of the fleshy walls – read more here) was used, an innovation giving a second life to the parts usually discarded by chefs. The vines were also soaked in the juice to capture the memory of the tomato garden. These were also selected, with the pulp intact, to flavour the spirit base. The choice of vodka marked the rise of this spirit during Lacroix’s youth (1960s), one of his favourite periods.

The strawberry was cast as the female lead opposite the tomato, a pleasant pairing of flavours we were comfortable with individually, yet could be curiously delighted by their unexpected combination. A juicer was used to extract the sweet elixir of the best types of strawberries available (in Singapore, the Japanese Amao, or other cultivars; Korean). Christian Lacroix would probably use his native hand-picked wild bush (a.k.a. Alpine) strawberries.

Key supporting leads included Belvedere Pomaranza (orange blossom, orange, mandarin), and sensuous vanilla pods added to this vodka and the sugar. The citrusy elements further elevate the musky (strawberry) and green (tomato) parts, and the vanilla rounds off the flavours while being evocative of nostalgic comforts.

As Lacroix would put it, “to have a sense of period,” this recipe is designed with cocktail bitters, essentials in the original classics. Celery bitters, used in the 19th century (and obscure even then), added an intriguing high soprano note and yet transient moment to the scene. The fashionable & luxurious Veuve Clicquot bubbly gives form and life to the various characters, while celebrating the desire to live better (something Lacroix is passionate about, the reason why he loves the presence of death, why his favourite gift {from his wife} is a wood-carved skull – read more here).

The finale outlines the surreal tutu of the ballerina, whimsically exaggerated further, reminiscent of the voluminous skirts of the Second Empire (France, 1852-1870). Sliced from a muskmelon, the garnish offers a deep warm sweetness to end the show… till the next. Alas, The Show Must Go On.

THE GREEN FAIRY

The Green Fairy was absinthe’s nickname, the infamous libation wildly popular among the bohemian circles and ‘underground’ intelligentsia (eg, Oscar Wilde, whose books found a fan in Christian Lacroix), notably in Paris. Arles, where Lacroix spent his childhood, was also where Vincent Van Gogh’s artwork peaked. This absinthe fan doubtless left an impression on Lacroix. Though banned in Paris when Lacroix moved there (1973), it was likely that the fashionable crowd had access to it given its continued production nearby in Britain and Spain. Flamenco was also very much a part of Arles, which undoubtedly helped Lacroix in his costume design for the Arsa Y Toma show about flamenco.

Absinthe Suisse, the top grade, has the highest (65-75%) alcoholic content (68% for Pernod absinthe). This recipe was designed with a modest dosage of absinthe to reflect the much lighter (alcoholic) palates today. Ernest Hemingway (1930s) would have consumed a much stronger absinthe cocktail (ratio of 1:4, absinthe:champagne for “Death in the Afternoon”).

An Asian herb was juxtaposed with a European one, alluring & acquired tastes in their own right. Kaffir lime leaves (eg, used in Peranakan cuisines in Singapore) were unlike any other herbs, with a floral complexity to its citrus profile, while wild rocket leaves had a peppery pungency and a forbidden aphrodisiac reputation since Roman times (from 10th century BC).

A London dry style of gin, synonymous with English culture (of which Lacroix was quite taken with), completes the ‘absinthe-like’ elements at the recipe’s core. Granny Smith green apple and lemon juice brightened the elixir with some acidity, while the flower of salt tempered any rough edges. The same two ingredients – vanilla sugar and Veuve Clicquot champagne, were used again, expressing similar (flavour) emotions, as if they shared a scene with the other cocktail… perhaps a reminder that they were but players in a much larger tale, much like the roles that Christian Lacroix’s costumes’ played in others’ imaginary world.

Look out for more info & pictures on the workshop after 16 May. Bon appétit!

Images copyright © 2009 Singapore, by Provocachic Ptd Ltd & 5PF Studio. All rights reserved.