14 Sep Understanding Balsamico
The past twenty years have seen an enormous surge in the popularity of Balsamic vinegar here in the United States. This mysteriously dark and intoxicating, complex elixir tempts us as a condiment, a base for sauces, vinaigrettes and marinades, and as a flavor enhancer for meats, cheeses and even fruits. Restaurants and supermarket shelves are now crowded with many different dark caramel liquids claiming to be balsamico, and some are even quite good; but with all of the choices available today, how can you distinguish between the different kinds of balsamic vinegar?
First, we should probably dispel the misconception that there are different types of balsamic. The truth is, like many products which are associated with a specific micro-region, there really is only one aceto balsamico tradizionale di Modena. This is the aged vinegar made from the must of the Trebbiano grape in and around the city of Modena in Emilia-Romagna (in North-central Italy). The name and production are overseen by one of two Consortiums, Modena and Reggio Emilia. Anything else is either a balsamic-style vinegar or a second-rate product full of colorants made by unscrupulous companies trying to trade off the reputation of this great product. Like Champagne, Manchego cheese, Halloumi and other great traditional products of Europe, the name is protected by the European Union. Balsamics that are made outside of the Modena region but made according to the traditional method are called condimento balsamico or salsa balsamica.
The basic method for making a traditional balsamic involves pressing white Trebbiano grapes and reducing the resulting must to about half of its original volume, then aging the must in wooden barrels. Over time, the vinegar slowly evaporates, and the vinegar is moved into barrels of different wood, taking on the flavor and aroma of each successive wood. Some producers use only oak, but others use up to seven different kinds of wood.
There are different age designations for balsamic, and the consortiums monitor them very carefully and label them accordingly. The Modena consortium labels 12-year-old balsamic with a red label, 18-year-old with a silver label, and 25-year-old or older with a gold label; these labels contain the lot numbers for the vinegar, and the bottles must conform to particular standards.
Here at the Gilded Fork, we carry a number of authentic balsamics from Modena, specifically from Tondo and Fabbi, companies based in Modena. You can hear my interview with Allessandro Calveri of Nero Modena, maker of Tondo, on ReMARKable Palate Podcast #48, where he explains the barrel aging process, and the strict rules of the Consortium for packaging and labeling.
Our Fabbi vinegars come from Franco Fabbi, whose historic “acetaia” is located in Collegara Italy, in the outskirts of Modena. The story of Fabbi, though typical in its history, elicits wonder and great respect: Franco was given his first barrels by his grandfather Giambattista, who had lavished all his loving care and attention on these late 19th century gems. Franco has nurtured his vinegar, aging it in these old barrels and more that he added over the years, using the simple yet powerful wisdom of the generations. He now has more than 1300 barrels, and is one of the most well respected vinegar makers in the region.
Many have asked what the differences are among the various years of balsamicos, and we realize it might be somewhat confusing to have so many choices, so we’d like to offer a bit of insight to help you choose which best suits your palate and the dishes you are serving.
The 25-year aged balsamico is so concentrated and flavorful that you should use it in the simplest of ways, such as drizzling it in tiny amounts over aged Parmigiano Reggiano. Because the Trebbiano grapes are grown on the slopes overlooking the fields of the grass on which the cows feed, this pairing is exquisite, and sings with the singular terroir of Emilia Romagna.
The 5-, 8-, 12- and 15-year-old balsamics, which are less costly, are wonderful for drizzling over meats such as the Prosciutto di Parma of the same region, and they make for exquisite vinaigrettes when matched with the best quality extra virgin olive oil you can find. Given the nature of the aging process, the older the vinegar, the more complex the flavor.
We encourage you to experiment and purchase the vinegars you can afford, and let their unique flavors and aromas speak to you in your cooking – but always allow them to play a lead role in the dish. The key is to indulge yourself and reward your own senses; often we will purchase such gifts for others, but don’t be afraid to spoil yourself once in a while!