19 Apr The Allure of Lavender
My love affair with lavender began three summers ago when I lived in the Provence region of southern France. At the time, the idea that such an alluring, delicate flower grown in fields all over the region could be such a versatile, edible ingredient used in many Provence recipes was amazing. Since my first experience of the intoxicating flower that summer, I have tasted lavender in ice creams, breads, chocolate truffles, cakes, alcoholic drinks, jams and jellies, custards, as well as in savory chicken, fish and pork dishes.
Lavender is a widely cultivated herb and a relative of both mint and rosemary. While it is typically characterized by clusters of small purplish flowers and gray leaves, the flowers can range in color from vivid indigo to more delicate whites and pinks. A rule of thumb when cooking is, the lighter the color, the more delicate the flavor.
Though not a staple of most home spice cabinets, lavender was once a fashionable ingredient in many restaurant kitchens, and this fragrant flower is increasingly making its way back into the recipes of trendy restaurants and even home cooks today. Its many culinary uses and the mysteriously sweet, floral and citrusy flavor make lavender an attractive herb to cooks of all degrees. Lavender is a flavor that people either love or hate – rarely one falls in between – and the aroma of the flower is a good indication of whether you will like the flavor in a recipe.
There are over two dozen varieties of lavender, but the only ones suitable for culinary use are the English and Provence varieties. English lavender (Lavandla angustifolia, aka ‘Vera’) is the most preferred variety for cooking, as it is sweetest in both aroma and taste of all lavenders. Provence lavender is also an important component in the beloved herbes de Provence. As they come from a source where they have not been sprayed, both fresh and dried lavender flowers and leaves lend themselves as a culinary herb to flavor honey, vinegar, pork, lamb, fish, cakes, jellies, cookies and fruit, among many other recipes. Fresh flowers impart a sweeter and stronger flavor, making them a popular choice for dessert recipes, but they are also harder to find than dried varieties year-round. Dried flowers are often favored in savory recipes for their herbier flavor, but either variety may be substituted for the other. Just remember that dried buds have more than double the potency of fresh lavender. Finally, when cooking with lavender, remember a little goes a long way.
If your recipe calls for making a liquid infusion with the lavender, bring only the liquid just to a boil, take it off the heat, add the lavender and let it sit covered for a short time. There is no set time for steeping, but do not let the mixture sit for too long before straining out the flowers or your end result will be soapy and too floral tasting. Periodically taste the mixture to test infusing times, as only taste will tell you when it’s time to take out the flowers. Steep for too long or add too much lavender and your whole recipe will possess a taste reminiscent of a creamy potpourri nightmare, rather than the subtle hint of the decadent herb you desire. Dried flowers are best when marinating meat longer than a couple hours, as the fresh will wilt and lose their flavor.
In addition to our evocative and luscious lavender recipes this month, the culinary uses for lavender are limited only to your imagination:
- Add fresh lavender flowers to salads for beautiful color
- Lavender can replace rosemary in most of your favorite recipes
- A simple lavender sugar can be used as a substitute for ordinary sugar in many recipes or toss fresh fruits in the sugar for a sweet and healthy dessert. To make lavender sugar, grind together one tablespoon of dried lavender flowers to two cups sugar in a coffee grinder or food processor.
- Another deliriously delicious addition to beverages such as lemonade, iced tea,
- Champagne, or margaritas is lavender syrup. To make, dissolve one cup of sugar in one cup boiling water. Turn off the heat, add two tablespoons dried lavender buds (and a strip of lemon or orange zest is optional) and let steep for 20 minutes. Strain and refrigerate for up to two weeks.
- The flowers are a sweet garnish to drinks, cakes, ice creams, as well as savory dishes and sauces.
- Infuse 1 teaspoon of lavender in 1 cup heavy cream, chill, then beat to medium peaks with 1 tablespoon sugar for lovely lavender whipped cream to serve with fruit or chocolate cake.