15 Feb Rick Tramonto: Breaking Down the Barriers
For newcomers to the world of fine dining, the setting itself can often be more intimidating than the food. Suddenly one is surrounded by knowledgeable wait staff and sommeliers, and it is quite possible to feel all thumbs in trying to choose from the menu without making a fool of oneself.
Chef Rick Tramonto has made it a goal to eliminate this moment of awkwardness. TRU, the Chicago restaurant he launched with partner and Executive Pastry Chef Gale Gand in 1999, was created with the ideal of breaking down the barriers inherent in the world of haute cuisine, making the entire experience one of pleasure rather than intimidation. The name itself, an acronym for “Tramonto Unlimited,” was crafted as a constant reminder for Rick to stay true to his art, his ingredients, and that vision.
It might be hard to fathom a restaurant that is at once modern art gallery and comfort zone, as the contradiction seems insurmountable. TRU, however, is exactly that. The interior features a Warhol canvas, a Klein sculpture, and other notable modern art pieces, which might lead one to expect utter pretentiousness; the décor, however, at once plush and soothing, creates the necessary balance, so that one can enjoy the art rather than feeling overshadowed by it. The same approach is conveyed in the food, but one is not necessarily aware of this at first. One only knows that the senses begin to tingle upon being seated; the eyes go everywhere in an effort to see everything, suddenly falling upon what looks like a door from the Star Trek set. It is the kitchen door. The thought that immediately follows: “How can a chef with a Star Trek door not be completely interesting?”
Once the senses are primed, the food fulfills the promise with that same touch of whimsy and welcome. There is edible art present, but it is not so abstract as to be incomprehensible. Instead, it is clear that the cooks are having fun, and they want to share that spirit with their guests.
When these components are all combined, they make for a moment of sensory indulgence in the dining room. There is meaning in each step of the process, and one that points the spotlight on the food experience itself. By eliminating the intimidation factor, the staff is able to focus on making guests happy and satiated; the colors of the dining room soothe, and the exploring gastronome can concentrate on the sensations of his palate. Dishes are stark white to serve as a palette for the artwork crafted in the kitchen, abundant with color and flavor.
For me, the full impact of TRU’s mission was experienced in the form of a caviar staircase, which has become synonymous with the restaurant. As someone who was nauseated at the time by the very thought of eating fish roe, and the pretense associated with it, nary an egg had touched my lips. Suddenly, there was this magnificent glass creation of stairs in front of me, with steps of multi-colored abundance from Beluga to salmon to wasabi tobiko, and I suddenly felt like a child again. The whimsical presentation broke down all of those inner barriers, and the fun of assembly alone became worth the tasting experience as I covered my brioche toast with chopped eggs, red onions, wasabi tobiko, and a dollop of crème fraîche. Was this really happening?
Years later, I still remember that as a turning point in my gastronomic exploration, yet at the time I was not aware of Tramonto’s underlying philosophy – I simply had a good time and a wonderful meal. Now, from a different place along the spectrum, I’m encouraged by the thought of how many neophytes have been ushered in to the pleasures of haute cuisine with such ingenious, welcoming tactics. Rather than presenting food with the attitude of “Me chef, you pedestrian,” it is more along the lines of “We’re having a blast in here – share this with us!”
And while the kitchen team at TRU certainly enjoys exercises in creativity and the avant-garde, there is always the underlying vision to remind them why TRU exists. In an industry where scientific food is becoming ever more popular, Tramonto insists on remembering why the restaurant was created. “We’re at a crossroads with scientific food,” he says. “We want to keep up on the new techniques without losing the central theme of what we do.” He has always envisioned creating a “branded” cuisine, where one could see a dish and immediately know it came from his kitchen. The branding concept certainly worked on this consumer, because TRU’s kitchen will always be the one that “got me to eat caviar.”
Tramonto’s is a living philosophy, and one that has undoubtedly contributed to the longevity of TRU. For such a mission to succeed, it has to be genuine, and every dish that comes from his kitchen bears a virtual sign that says: “And I mean it. Now have some fun.”
Recipe: Diver Scallops with Cauliflower Cream, Lemon Confit, and Golden Osetra Caviar
www.trurestaurant.com
[Note: Should you be completely enamored with the caviar staircase, TRU does have them available for sale on their web site. Yes, it will impress your guests. No, they didn’t pay me to say that.]