Kitchen Magic

If thou tastest a crust of bread, thou tastest
all the stars and all the heavens.
– Robert Browning

What is it about bread that sends people scurrying into the kitchen for a warm slice, fresh from the oven? There is something so ethereally rewarding about a home-baked loaf that it makes the baker feel like a Great Creator. “From mine own two hands: This.”

I used to be very intimidated by the process. After several attempts that resulted in loaves better used as doorstops, I thought perhaps I just didn’t have the knack for baking bread. Then I discovered Bernard Clayton’s Complete Book of Breads, and all that changed. I decided to be brave and try his loaf of Seeded Rye, and life has not been the same since. (Not to worry, the recipe is in this month’s At the Stove section.)

This bread was so delicious, with its oniony aroma and crackling crust, I almost ate the whole loaf the first time I baked it. I held it up to my nose and inhaled as hard as I could, because I simply could not get enough.

Even creating the sour was a powerful process. I stood at the counter with my ear to the bowl, mesmerized with the loud popping of the bubbles as the mixture performed its fermentational magic. It was working!

With this new bravado, I have since created loaves of whole wheat, pumpernickel raisin, English muffins, popovers, olive breads, and numerous other combinations. I am like a kid who has discovered it is possible to fly after all.

Baking bread makes me feel like I have the power of Dr. Frankenstein, coupled with the passion of Julia Child. Something could go wrong at any step of the way, resulting in a monster, so I enthusiastically go through the process and wait for the results with nervous anticipation.My family has been quite grateful for the experimentation, as they play an eager role in the tasting process. Their feedback is very exacting, so I know if the loaves are too dense, too dry, not flavorful enough, or just right. What I strive for now is consistency, as Mother Nature must be obeyed to be commanded in the kitchen.

Humidity, temperature, and a host of other factors play a role, each of which can significantly affect the results. Chef Donna has demystified some of these for us in this month’s article on techniques, so I hope you find them helpful in your quest as a bread lover.

Of course, nothing is better on bread than foie gras. She’ll explain that process to you, too. Until I read all she had to say on the subject, I was quite scared of it myself. I would normally leave the handling of such a delicate ingredient to a masterful chef, but now I’m actually ready to try making a terrine. Such courage is a testament to Chef Donna’s straightforward, clear approach to cooking. It is the same wonderful clarity that Gina Gallo offers in her wine pairings to Donna’s recipes.

Speaking of bread and foie gras, I have become quite dismayed with what I am reading in the news about our endangered pleasures. Ignorance can be a very dangerous thing. In fact, this month’s Monthly Meditation is dedicated to the preservation of these sacred indulgences.