Learning to Speak Italian

There is a popular aphorism in Italy, “Si parla come si mangia,” which literally means one eats like one talks. However, because Italians consider simple speech a rhetorical ideal (though not necessarily a reality as testified by the varied, colorful nature of Italian swear words) the saying actually means that one should cook simply, as one would preferably talk. Thus Italy’s culinary artistry relies less on complicated mixtures, spices and techniques, and more on the purity and quality of each ingredient.

Given that ingredients tend to be rather simple in Italian cooking, the basic ones are held to a higher standard of quality and an elevated level of flavor. For example, Italian olive oil is considered an art form, and is tested and tasted just like wine. With its higher level of complexity, the oil is better able to stand by itself in bases for sauces and dressings. In order to arbitrate whether the oil is insipido, or without taste (which is usually due to the sourcing of flavorless or processed olives), one must drink a small portion and “taste” it. I actually did, and it was as disgusting as one could imagine, but I learned that if the oil burns the back of your throat when you swallow it (after gargling for a few seconds), it means it is of very high quality (in Italian this burning sensation is called pizzicante).

Even the dried pasta in Italy is different, and certainly more flavorful than its American counterpart – and not merely because you’re eating it in a more culturally appropriate locale. Unlike the enriched flour commonly used to make pasta in the U.S., the pasta in Italy is made with an un-enriched variety, and its distinctive flavor is slightly more sophisticated than the bland white flour found in American markets.

Of course, it is in the realm of homemade pasta that the simplicity of ingredients and sophistication of execution is most united. I had a first-hand experience with pasta-making while in staying in Vasto, a seaside town in Abruzzo: Maccheroni alla Molinara is a tradition in the Abruzzo region of Italy, and it is passed down by word of mouth from father to son for several generations. The actual process to make the pasta is incredibly complex, but like most Italian dishes, the ingredients used are very simple, essentially consisting of farina, salt and water. The mixture is then elongated for three to four hours until it resembles a large tube, which is then looped into a circle that is approximately seven feet long. After a long period of handling the pasta, the two chefs finally cut it into several pieces and boil it for about four minutes until the pasta is perfectly al dente. Then it is dressed with a simple tomato sauce and poured onto wood-topped tables, and served from there – without plates! The pasta is eaten communally along with a bottle or carafe of red wine.

Needless to say I had an excellent time in Italy, but what I really appreciated about the experience was my lesson in the culinary arts: I learned that they do not have to be as complicated as I had imagined. As long as one uses quality ingredients, one does not have to use complicated combinations to achieve a sophisticated result. In this way, cooking becomes not only for the wealthy, or those able to buy complicated cooking utensils, but also for those who enjoy it with the passion of a craftsman.
Photo: Kelly Cline

Rebecca Harrington is an editorial assistant for the Gilded Fork, and has regaled us with many tales of her adventure in Italy, which in addition to the above includes a little luggage…”journey”…that would test the most seasoned of travelers. She’s delighted to be back in the U.S. despite the lack of good pasta flour.