Does this mean you? If so, then hey, call us — we’re fun people to work with (unless we’ve had too much coffee).

In case you’re wondering what’s in it for you, we’ll just add that our past interns have gone on to some pretty cool gigs, including the post as our own food editor, a restaurant critic for a major newspaper, and Eric Ripert’s pastry chef in Philadelphia. Who might you turn out to be?

VIDEO EDITING INTERNS
Application Deadline: October 8

If you want to build up your editing portfolio, we’ve visited some pretty fabulous locations around the world, and need assistance putting together our video series for those.

This internship is great if you are a budding filmmaker, communications student, experienced videographer or editor who wants to branch out into the travel, lifestyle and culinary fields. These videos will be great for your portfolio, and hey, you might even do a better job than us. We’ll also be needing paid help for our consulting clients and Chef Mark’s smallbusinessvideo.com, and we’ll resource those freelancers from our group of interns first.

The position requires working knowledge of editing basics and Final Cut Pro. And while it would be great if you were in New York City, we can work with you from any location to which delivery is possible.

Please send a cover letter and links to video samples no later than October 8 to chefmark [at] gildedfork [dot] com.

CULINARY RESEARCH INTERNS
Application Deadline: October 8

We are launching a new version of our site this fall, including a virtual test kitchen, so we are putting together a team of research interns to assist our editorial team. This is an ideal internship for people eager to gain experience in food writing while expanding their culinary knowledge.

The primary focus of this position is to pull together solid research on various types of ingredients for our test kitchen dossiers (see examples in our Ingredients section). We require someone with demonstrated research skills, conscientious attention to detail and information sourcing (in other words, we don’t want copied Wikipedia entries).

Please send writing samples and a cover letter no later than October 8 to madeline [at] gildedfork [dot] com.

HOW IT WORKS

We are a virtual company (meaning the company is real, the “office building” is not), so our internships can be done from anywhere. We’re in NYC, Philadelphia, San Francisco, Nebraska and Toronto, so yeah, we make that work. As a result, we’re looking for self-directed people who thrive on pursuing a project with minimal oversight. Our internships are unpaid at this time, but if you are eager to work with a passionate group of gourmands who are happy to mentor you, and where you won’t have to make coffee or spend the day in front of the copier, this could very well be the place for you.

We are looking for dedicated, professional, energetic people for whom the pursuit of excellence is standard operating procedure. A sense of humor bordering on salacious is also helpful.

Where required, we are happy to provide any necessary paperwork for college/university approval or credit.

…and her name is Madeline. If you’ve been with us for awhile, or have seen the banter back and forth on Twitter (she’s @MadelineSho), you know that she keeps us on our toes around here. Madeline has been such a force of nature here that it was only right for us to make her the Gilded Fork’s new Food Editor. We hope you will join us in congratulating her for a job well done, and we can’t wait to show you what she’s been working on to develop our new test kitchen, which will debut this fall.

Also on our team are two new additions:

Kalle Guinn is our new Editorial Assistant (@forkitude on Twitter), and she will be helping to craft one of our favorite site pieces: the ingredient dossiers. She and Madeline have a whole lot going on in that kitchen, so I hope you’re ready to cook.

Tiffany Li is our new Editorial Assistant in the sublime area of pastry, where she’ll be helping the Pastry Princess in launching her new blog, as well as adding baking techniques and tidbits to the site.

Welcome ladies, and thank you for being a part of what we’re creating here!

Well, the New Year did not quite start out as I had anticipated. There were plans for a party, some live music, and perhaps a little dancing. Unfortunately, life throws us a curve ball once in a while, and it is in those moments we find what we’re made of.

New Year’s Eve found me, my siblings and their families in the waiting room of the Cardiac Intensive Care Unit, holding our breath to see if our mother would survive the night. She had experienced two heart attacks in a matter of days, and though she’s a tough cookie, we didn’t know if her tiny body could withstand that much trauma in so short a time.

It is always a mistake to underestimate my mother. True to character, she not only pulled through, but was cracking jokes within moments of having her ventilator removed. Less than a week later I arrived to find her packed and ready to go home, with the doctor’s blessing; she had done so many laps around the CCU, they saw no point in keeping her there any longer. Besides, she hated the food.

Now I find myself in the unusual role of caretaker for my mother, which is a reversal to say the least. True to anal-retentive form, I have crafted charts of her medications, as well as descriptions of each pill and what it’s for, and twice-daily recordings of her blood pressure. I know it is difficult for her to be tended to, as she is fiercely independent (apple, tree, etc.), but she is enjoying being spoiled (she’s not too happy that I hid the Milky Ways, but somebody has to be the bad guy).

Each member of my family has taken a role in her care, so naturally I gravitated toward the meal planning. This is a new challenge for me, as I’m accustomed to spoiling my mother with buttery treats and sweets (her favorites). Now I’m on a mission to satiate her palate in ways that are healthier yet still indulgent, so it’s time for some experimentation.

To date, we have focused on indulgence at the Gilded Fork, but never with a stated goal of “healthy,” though many of our recipes are indeed very good for you. In fact, I have often cringed at the thought of putting the word on any of these pages. Now, however, I see that many of us are looking for healthy ways to eat well, and though that is a philosophy I espouse in daily life, I’ve never said it out loud — to you. Consider it stated.

In the coming months you will see on these pages, as well as on my Food Philosophy show, some of our efforts at experimentation, and more of a conversation about healthy eating. We invite you to share your questions, thoughts and ideas on our blogs so we can all partake in the experience of eating well.

I wish you and your family a wonderful 2008, a year that will undoubtedly bring big changes for many of us. In my case, the year kicked off in a shocking way, but was followed by the joy of seeing my mother smile and laugh again, handling her own situation with that infallible Scottish sense of humor. May we all keep that in mind as life throws us a curve ball or two.

I find that this time of year is much like a reluctant lover: There are days filled with the tease of bright sunshine that summons the soul to awaken, followed by the gloom of gray skies and rain that compels one to stay in bed. The patterns are inconsistent, and leave one yearning for more of the warmth. Sigh.

Nonetheless I keep telling myself that steady sunshine will soon be here, so I must simply endure the patches of gray. April is a month of transition, where we shed the past and step forth to greet all things newly budding; there are signs of life as far as the eye can see. At last I can open my windows and listen to the birds, though they will eventually irritate me with their cacophony of mating calls. On some days I know just how they feel.

I do look forward to my first peek of violets and bumblebees; it means the earth is busy renewing itself, moving the life force into its next season of growth. I am eager to plant my herbs and get the kitchen ready for an influx of vegetables that cry for a quick sauté or a few minutes on the grill. I’ve also purchased a heavy-duty KitchenAid mixer, so I’m ready to take on a new season of cooking inspiration.

This month we are celebrating the arrival of (sometimes) warmer days with a look at what’s arriving to market, and artichokes have captured our attention for the Main Ingredient. We like the interactivity of these thistle family members, which give us something to do with our hands during dinner. In the second half of the month we’ll progress to the Indulgence of Tarragon (not the kitchen elf, though he was quite miffed), and our kitchen royals have a few more tricks up their sleeves.

If Easter is on the agenda for your family, our test kitchen has crafted a special menu inspired by a Roman-style roasted lamb. The meal is versatile enough for any spring celebration, so feel free to use it whatever your belief system or style of gathering.

We’re also very busy behind the scenes here at the Gilded Fork, creating new ways to make your experience as fulfilling as possible. We are grateful to every one of you who peruses our pages, whether it’s for a quick recipe or a moment of food porn lust; we are delighted to provide any and all types of satiety. Speaking of delight, we’ve also invited two new gilded gals to the masthead: editorial assistants Jennifer Weber and China Millman. We welcome them into our home, and appreciate the enthusiasm they have shown for our approach to food. We’ve warned them to steer clear of the elves, so we hope they heed our advice.

May your own garden grow in this new season, when a sunbeam’s momentary radiance is sometimes enough to inspire the rest of the day.

Well, 2007 is off to a helluva start! We’ve now got a regular Sirius Radio slot, 80,000 readers a month, some corporate consulting gigs, and our kitchen is busier than ever. Unfortunately I don’t have any bubbly left over from New Year or I’d pop that cork!

We have oodles in store for you this year, and the most important goal for us is to include more everyday ingredients in our repertoire. We’ve certainly covered the decadent foods like caviar and foie gras, but we are eager to give you more accessible ingredients that can really help you expand your culinary repertoire. We’re starting with salmon as our Main Ingredient for January, not only because it’s such a versatile fish, but also because it adds a nice splash of color to the table during these winter months. Later in the month we’ll delve into the Indulgence of port, one of my favorite wines to drink, offering you some cozy dishes to ward off winter’s chill.

Along with our emphasis on simple ingredients this year, our attention is also focused on the process of learning. Lest you think we are all-knowing in the realm of food and wine (ha!), we’d like to share more of our own journey of discovery with you: You’ll be learning in real-time, right along with us. We find the world of cuisine to be ever-evolving, and one in which we are always learning, and we hope that through our process of discovery, you, too, will gain some new insights to develop your own palate and skills.

The Culinary Podcast Network will help that process along, and we have several new shows debuting this year that are focused on the how-to, including Bachelor’s Boot Camp™, video from our test kitchen and a show from the Pastry Princess!

Entertaining will continue to be an area of expansion this year as well. Chef Mark will give you an overview of our upcoming Mise en Place menus in his January editorial, but suffice it to say we’ve got you covered from brunch to Persia. Since our Entertaining section continues to be one of the most popular areas of the site, we want it to become a one-stop reference for your at-home gatherings.

You’ll also see more guest chefs in our kitchen in 2007, and we’ll continue to go Behind the Toque with some of the heavy-hitters who have helped to define modern cuisine around the globe.

In short, we are going to have a blast this year! Grab your seat at the table and get your fork ready.

Happy New Year!

What a year it’s been for me! Twelve months ago I was in paradise, but also in a small version of hell: I was working as a private chef for a billionaire, traveling back and forth between New York City and a private island in the Caribbean on a tricked-out 727. What a glamorous life, eh? Well, actually, when you’re the one charged with making it glamorous, it’s not exactly a walk in the park.

As a huge fan of the work that Jennifer was doing, I had been contributing recipes and articles to this site in between jet-set jaunts. I came to realize that I was much more excited about what was happening on these pages than anything I was making for unappreciative rich people, no matter that I had an unlimited food budget. Being told by an aging British Aristocrat that my exquisite Mixed Seafood in Ginger Broth with Confetti Vegetables “looked lovely but smelled horrible” confirmed for me that I would much rather spend my time with true epicures than classless wealthy people with no taste.

When Jennifer told me that she was planning on some major changes for the Gilded Fork, my yearning to be a bigger part of it became even greater, so I made the choice to leave behind the life of a jet-setting private chef and return to what I love. It’s been one of the best choices of my life. I was so honored that Jennifer would take me on as a business partner, and that she was so open to some of the innovations I was excited to introduce to the Gilded Fork.

We have made so many additions to the site in the last year, all in the service of our main goal: To celebrate the sensual pleasures of food. I had been recording podcasts since August 2005, and Jennifer was a frequent guest with a segment of her own. We decided to expand our offerings, and Jennifer created the Food Philosophy podcast. In March, the Culinary Podcast Network was born, bringing together the best and the brightest of food podcasters to become the world’s first all-food podcast channel.

We also switched over from a weekly publishing schedule to update the site daily, with one new recipe or article each day, and we brought in some fabulous talent to our Test Kitchen team with Chef Lia Soscia and our Pastry Princess, Monica Glass, as well as mixologist Damian Sim of Provocachic. We introduced the Mise en Place section, which quickly became the most popular page on the site, as well as our online boutique, enabling us to share some of our favorite artisanal products with you.

We are all about innovation, and 2007 will bring even more new elements to our pages, making the site more interactive, and we will do our best to bring even more food-related content to you, our readers.

On the culinary front, we are planning to focus on two major areas. On the one hand, we will focus more and more on dishes inspired by cuisines from diverse cultures. You know that my inspiration with ReMARKable Palate has always come from micro-regional cuisines from around the world, and my recent travels have served to strengthen my resolve to bring you more and more of these great dishes.

On the other hand, we will continue to add recipes that are easy to make and which will save you time in the kitchen. As much as we love the more innovative and complicated dishes we’ve become known for, we recognize that some of our readers may find some of these recipes daunting, or simply don’t have the time to tackle them. Fear not – we won’t stop making these dishes, we’ll just add more recipes that will take less time and effort to make, but which still celebrate the joys and pleasures of our featured ingredients.

Speaking of featured ingredients, we will continue to devote our attention to exploring the intricacies and glories of a Main Ingredient and an Indulgence each month. In 2007 we plan to explore persimmons, pork, salmon, mushrooms, port, cranberries, avocadoes and many more. We will also bring you menus for Bastille Day, Cinco de Mayo, a smorgasbord, brunch celebrations and Mardi Gras.

As always, we welcome your feedback, requests, and of course, accolades! Please let us know what you think, and accept our best wishes for a wonderful 2007.

I’ve crafted the habit of taking time each December to reflect on the past year and its adventures, and this year’s rewind has been exceptionally fun. When I glimpse at the mental snapshot of where we were twelve months ago, I see that the days were long, the nights were longer, and there seemed to be no end to the obstacles impeding our forward movement. I felt…old. Suddenly things reached a synergistic groove and we started moving at warp speed – the year went by in a flash.

What a long way we’ve come in that time. Not only have we transformed from a web site to a new media company, but we’ve now launched a separate production company, and our audience has surpassed our expectations (even the hopeful ones). Our collaboration with PodShow has helped us to reach more than 250,000 podcast listeners each month, and this site now welcomes more than 2,000 visitors per day.

With progress has come the opportunity to travel, and our journey has taken us to Italy and Spain, where we’ve made new friends and savored the taste of life with fellow gourmands. We have spoken with people from around the globe who are making incredible strides in the world of cuisine, and they have allowed us to share their stories with you.

Of course, we couldn’t have gotten here without our amazing crew, our kitchen elves – and you. It is because you have embraced our celebration of food’s sensual pleasures that we have been able to mold this project into what it is now, and what it will become.

You, dear readers and listeners, have proven to us that there is a place where food can be savored without gimmicks and pretense, and where joy and rapture can live side by side with a pinch of sass and humor. We wanted to build the kind of place that inspired us to jump out of bed each morning, eager to start the day, where we could greet our guests with a passionate hug and a plate of something delicious. There would be no flashing, floating or pop-up ads, and never a moment where celebrity chefs would lead the direction of our content. Certainly, those big names have been presented on our pages – but we care more about what they think than who they are.

We have been able to showcase the artisans who inspired us with their creativity and passion, from super-inventor Matt Griffin and his Baker’s Edge pan to pioneer Dick Pyle and his truffle tree farm. We have tasted products so sublime, like Allure Estates’ Olio Nuovo, that they compelled us to launch a boutique where we could share those culinary delights with you.

The most thrilling part of it all for me, personally, has been the launch of the Culinary Podcast Network. We staked our claim as the world’s first all-food podcast channel, and with that made our official mark in the world of new media. With the launch of my own show, Food Philosophy, I could at last share my thoughts in a new way, bringing the words off the page and into the ears of hundreds of thousands of people, and nothing can quite describe what that feels like. 2007 has much more in store for the new food network, so keep your eyes and ears ready for what is coming!

And though I mentioned this above, the contributions of our magnificent team warrant a spotlight for each of them, and I offer my heartfelt thanks to the people who make the Gilded Fork what it is. Thank you Lia, Moni, Alder, Lenn, Damian, Ava, Rebecca, Sandra and Kelly – the quality of your work makes each day a joy for us. I also need to thank our friends at PodShow, especially Adam, Ron, Richard and Greg, whose support and enthusiasm for our work has made this new phase of our business a thrilling adventure. We are proud to be a part of the new media revolution.

Last, but certainly not least, I need to end the year with a special thanks to Mark Tafoya, our talented Executive Chef and the co-owner of all things here and behind the scenes. I’ve thanked him numerous times, but I hope he’ll never tire of my gratitude, because I could not ask for more in a business partner and friend. (Actually, I think he officially qualifies as a brother now, because he joined The Family for Thanksgiving. My mother is drafting the adoption papers.)

Editorially speaking, we are heading into the realm of cocktails and hors d’oeuvres for December, which is our preferred method of entertaining this time of year. Since cocktail parties can range from a casual gathering with friends to an elegant soirée with colleagues, we’ll provide you with the tips and tricks to present either option with style. We’re kicking things off with our Main Ingredient, the cocktail, so take a look at our Mixology section for inspiration, and stay tuned for December’s featured drink from mixologist Damian Sim. The Pastry Princess is whipping up some liquor-laced desserts as well, so don’t miss the fun happening in her part of the kitchen!

I hope that as the holiday countdown dwindles, you will remember to take deep breaths and enjoy as much of this wonderful season as you can. We’ll do everything in our power to help you stay stress-free, so know that we’re in your corner. Get thee to the Entertaining section!

In bringing the year’s editorials to a close, I wish all of you a warm and fulfilling holiday season with your family and friends, and hope you will continue to explore our pages for ideas and inspiration. Remember, there is always a seat at our table for you.

Holy feathered bird. Is it really that time already? Suddenly I’m aware of the word “holiday” everywhere, and the countdown has begun. I need menus, wrapping paper, gift lists, and a general sense of order before the chaos begins.

Thankfully, we’ve got a handy team right here to help us all stay organized, and that “us” includes you, too. We’ve armed ourselves for the season with a list of ways to prepare turkey for Thanksgiving (including the leftovers, which can be the biggest challenge for the home cook), and all month long we’ll unveil suggestions for your gourmet gift list, whether your recipients are casual acquaintances or beloved family members.

To start with, we’ve divided our Gilded Fork Boutique gifts into price ranges: Under $50, $50-100 and $100 and Up, so you can find something for a modest hostess gift or a decadent indulgence for the gastronome in your life. Later in November we’ll also provide you with some gift-giving ideas by personality (i.e. the Sweet Tooth, the Avid Cook, the Neophyte, etc.), so get your pen ready.

Have you signed up for our free Gilded Select™ newsletter yet? I suggest you do, as we’ll continue to offer special pricing on our boutique items throughout the holidays. Every penny counts, people!

In case you haven’t guessed it by now, our Main Ingredient for November is turkey. Predictable, yes — but essential? You betcha. Don’t worry, we’re not going to do anything super-freakish with the bird, as I know from personal experience that The Family does not enjoy deviations from tradition on our holiday table. Given my trauma in that area I have stuck with little touches here and there to satisfy my palate without alienating Them. The Sister will of course host things this year, so I will do my best to stay out of the way and drink much of the Moscato d’Asti I brought back from Italy. It makes the day smoother all around.

We’ll then head into an Indulgence of sage, the perfect counterpart to fowl, and one of the tastiest fuzzy leaves ever to grow in nature. Its delicate flavor just screams savory delights, but fear not, as the Pastry Princess has taken on some sweet variations as well. (Note: She has now officially been crowned on our masthead, along with Queen Lia. You’ll also notice that we’ve added a taster to the banner — he is a complete diva, and tried to insist upon being at the top of the list, but that just isn’t happening.)

In other news, I’ve just returned from a glorious trip to the Piemonte region of Italy, where I tasted my way through the vineyards and truffled activities prevalent at this time of year. Naturally I recorded much of the trip to share with you, and my most recent Food Philosophy podcast will take you along with me on a simulated truffle hunt with Lady the Truffle Dog, as well as give you an auditory glimpse of the infamous White Truffle Festival in Alba. I’m also delighted to share that the show has really taken off thanks to its distribution through the PodShow network — my truffle jaunt had nearly 30,000 downloads on its first day in circulation!

A few days after I came back from Piemonte, Chef Mark headed off to the Rioja region of Spain for a wine and food tasting tour, so he too will have audio footage from his adventure on the ReMARKable Palate podcast. For the record, yes, we’re having a blast.

We hope you find lots of great information here this month for all of your holiday celebrations, from Spanish wines and tapas ideas (perfect for cocktail parties) to simple, elegant preparations for your seated gatherings; don’t forget to visit our Entertaining section for tips on planning, menu ideas and wine pairings. It promises to be a festive season here at the Gilded Fork house, so we’ll meet you in the cellar for a toast!

Wishing you a wonderful holiday season!

When I was invited on a press tour of Rioja, Spain’s primary wine region, I was excited on many levels. The main purpose of the trip was to explore some of the 500+ bodegas of Rioja, but every trip I take is, in my view, an opportunity to taste the flavors of the land I’m visiting. My culinary philosophy has always focused on micro-regional cuisines, studying the products, traditional dishes and wines of a specifically defined geographic, cultural or climatic area. While Rioja is best known outside of Spain for its wines, my journey also yielded many surprises and satisfactions on the culinary plain. The Spanish have always considered wine and food as inseparable companions, and thus their winemaking is an exercise in creating wines that complement the native flavors of the area.

Although the vast majority of Rioja’s arable land is dedicated to the cultivation of Tempranillo, Graciano, Garnacha, Mazuelo and other grapes, Rioja is also known for its amazingly fresh and mineral-rich vegetables. The white asparagus of Rioja is known throughout Spain, and when simply steamed and drizzled with olive oil, it is a perfect appetizer to be enjoyed with a glass of white wine. Piquillo peppers and wild mushrooms (setas) also give texture and color to the savory caramelized lamb, beef and pork that emerges from the wood-fired asadores in every corner of the land.

Rioja has always benefited culinarily from its strategic location just to the south of the Basque country, known throughout the world as one of the most serious cooking cultures on earth. Much of the population of Rioja is made up of Basques who in fact consider the Ebro Valley, the Sierra Cantabria and the Sierra de la Demanda to be their homeland as well. It is no surprise to find that merluza (hake) is as popular here as it is closer to the Cantabrian Sea.

While the traditional foods of Rioja are embedded firmly in the palates of its people, they are also serving as the backbone for a new, adventurous and notable culinary revolution. Fine dining establishments in the region have long lived in the shadow of the famed restaurants and gastronomic societies of San Sebastian; but with young adventurous chefs like the Michelin-starred Francis Paniego and his protégée José Ramón Piñeiro serving their interpretations of classic Riojana cuisine, fine dining is making a name for itself in the Ebro Valley as well.

I had the good fortune of having a long, luxurious 14-course lunch at Paniego’s El Portal de Echaurren, his flagship dining room set off from the older, more traditional dining room his mother Marisa Sánchez has run for 30 years in the Echaurren Hotel, situated in the small mountain town of Ezcarray. There Chef Paniego plays with local ingredients to create unique interpretations of classic Riojana cuisine; we had the dégustacion menu, and after a progession of 14 small courses, I felt decadently satisfied. I spoke with Chef Paniego, who is charmingly modest despite the renown his Michelin star has brought him. When I asked him about his food philosophy, he shrugged that he had none, just the desire to make good food with honest ingredients. He then spent several minutes detailing his love of local wild mushrooms (setas), truffles, piquillo peppers and suckling lamb. He told me about his influences and culinary ambitions, and without missing a beat, shrugged and repeated that he doesn’t really have a philosophy of food! I found his sincerity and modesty quite disarming — it’s all about his passion for discovering new ways to showcase the traditional flavors of the region.

The dish that struck me the most was one of the starters; Swiss chard batons lightly tempura-fried and served in a truffle sauce and a freshly grated almond powder. To use the rib of swiss chard this way reveals the commitment Paniego brings to his food, looking even to the bits usually discarded by less thoughtful chefs. Inspired by the fact that his mother never throws out any edible part of a food, Paniego uses the cooking liquid from pimiento peppers and makes it into a thin and delicate gelatin base for a salad of microgreen sprouts.

Paniego is also the consulting chef at the “City of Wine,” where the Frank Gehry-designed hotel at the Marqués de Riscal bodega complex houses his restaurant. The pristine and sleek kitchen is run by Paniego’s right-hand man, Chef José Ramón Piñeiro, another surprisingly young chef who shares Paniego’s philosophy of honoring the past while creating dishes that excite the palates of international gastronomes. He gave us a tour of his kitchen, and while I did not get a chance to sample his dishes there, I did get to watch the staff preparing for the day’s service, and snuck a taste of a simple phyllo cracker studded with sunflower seeds.

Another chef using the traditional ingredients of Rioja to create haute cuisine is Juan Nales at Las Duelas restaurant in the Hotel Los Augustinos in Haro, located at the crossroads of Rioja’s wine routes. He starts with good quality products and sensitivity to their native qualities, applying the techniques he learned while studying in Madrid and in San Sebastian. While the focus is again on traditional Riojana dishes, there were some surprises in store: I had a starter of thinly sliced toro tuna with wasabi ice cream — something you’d expect to see in a Japanese restaurant in New York, but which showcases the local tuna found just off the coast to the north.

Merluza confitada sobre Espárragos Verdes y pil-pil de Berberechos is Nales’ nod to a traditional Basque dish, using their famous pil-pil sauce with a lightly fried and oil-marinated hake over green asparagus. Venison with chestnut croquetas and a sauce of wild berries is an example of Nales’ take on a typical dish served in high style, which of course went very well with a Torre Muga 2001, a new-world style wine whose black fruit aroma underscored with spicy hints of minerals matched the sauce perfectly. (It was also nice to be drinking this wine with Juan Muga, who had given us a tour of his family-owned winery earlier in the day, and who bought us to meet his friend Chef Nales.)

Perhaps the best example of traditional asador wood-fired grilling was our lunch at the Meson Chuchi, an asador in the small town of Fuenmayor. Chuletilla, grilled baby lamb, cabrito (goat), and cochinillo, a suckling pig with the most exquisite crackling skin and falling-off-the-bone tenderness, are all cooked in the 25-year-old wood-fired brick oven. The chef works diligently all day in front of this hot fire to produce the grilled meats, redolent with the smoky flavor imparted from the encina, or holm oak. The acorns, or bellotas, from this same oak tree are fed to pigs which later become the famed jamon iberico de bellota, so the ham is perfumed throughout with the flavor and aroma of acorns. The wood-burning oven also produces full heads of roasted garlic which are gently squeezed onto the meats and served with roasted potatoes on the side.

The trip would not have been complete without one last night crawling through the famed Calle Laurel section of Logroño, which has numerous streets filled with tapas bars (or pinchos, as they are more commonly known in the North of Spain). We were blessed to be there in autumn, when the setas, or wild mushrooms, are in season. One bar in particular grills up very large wild mushrooms with garlic and olive oil, and when enjoyed with a glass of the surprisingly inexpensive yet quality Crianza wines, makes for a great snack.

Not satisfied with only the wild mushrooms, we had to have some of the patatas bravas, fried potatoes slathered in hot sauce and mayonnaise, as well as pimientos del padron, morcilla sausage, and the famed white asparagus of Rioja. This last dish was wrapped in a slice of ham with melted cheese and wrapped in a thin crepe. The perfect ending to a week of dégustacion!

P.S. You can hear Chef Mark’s interviews with Chefs Juan Nales and Francis Paniego on an upcoming ReMARKable Palate podcast, and episodes #65 and #66 feature the Wines of Rioja.

Much has been made in the past few years about “organic,” “free-range,” “local,” “seasonal,” “pesticide-free” and “all-natural” foods. It’s heartening to see that many Americans are paying more careful attention to their food choices, and seeking out produce, meat and dairy products that are better for them than the mass-produced products they ate from supermarkets while growing up; but with so many terms in play, it’s easy to be confused – and worse yet, deceived – about just what is going into the foods we eat. By now, I think most people have realized that the buzzword “organic” may or may not assure they’ll get something that was farmed with the care, love and purity of the traditional farmer. Even huge agribusinesses and retailers like Wal-Mart have started offering at least some portion of their products with an “organic” label.

Our focus here at the Gilded Fork has always been on celebrating the sensual pleasures of food; for us, that can only mean maintaining a respect for seasonal products at their natural peak of ripeness, which is expressed in our featured ingredients. We choose both our Main Ingredient and our Indulgence because those products are at their natural height of perfection when we highlight the joy they bring to our kitchen and table. For example, the pumpkin is a logical featured ingredient in October, since it is the month we most associate with hard winter squash. Luckily, though, the recipes we’ve created to feature the pumpkin will serve you well throughout the winter when using various types of winter squash, most varieties of which will last through the season. Even more importantly, those squash provide us with the beta-carotene and other minerals we need throughout the long winter months. Our Indulgence this month is pecans, which are being harvested even as I write this. A friend of mine is living in an intentional community in rural Georgia this fall, and he tells me that he has spent the last several days picking pecans in their extensive orchard.

So the way we prefer to make sense of this myriad of choices is to choose local and seasonal products whenever possible, and this may not always mean buying “certified organic” products.

Matt Groves, Market Manager for the Inwood Greenmarket in New York City, says “Being certified organic is not what it used to be. State and federal governments have made farmers jump through so many hoops just to get certified that many of them don’t want to bother with the paperwork anymore. They practice organic methods, but they won’t be certified, because it’s just too much: too much paperwork. Many of our biodynamic farmers have gone a step beyond organic, but very few of them use pesticides anymore. Everybody here tries to do it natural as best they can.”

The bureaucratic and political process can get in the way of traditional farming, and actually puts the small organic farmer at a disadvantage to the large corporations who are certified organic, but who don’t use traditional methods. Groves explains, “Very few of our farmers use pesticides anymore. In this day and age the farmers don’t want their land damaged. If they screw up their fields and can’t plant on them for five years, they’re out a lot of money. So everyone here practices pretty good farming where pesticides are concerned.”

Consumers are now starting to embrace the concept of buying seasonally, but even in the “organic-minded” supermarket chains like Whole Foods and Wild Oats, you can get “organic” tomatoes in December that came from halfway around the world. “You go to Whole Foods, they’re buying strawberries out of Chile that say they’re organic. But how do you know?” Groves questions.

If you’re buying in a seasonally-focused way from local sources, you’re much more likely to get something that came from close by, and the market will bear a much lower price once fuel costs and transportation are filtered out of the mix. “We’re not the cheapest place, but in the peak of the season, these vegetables were in the field yesterday,” Groves says.

I have noticed that most every ingredient in the market, when in its natural season, is usually around $1-2 per pound, except for really labor-intensive produce. So by shopping locally and seasonally, not only are you supporting local farmers, you’re making a statement about the free market.

“There’s a reason for that. [Farmers] keep each other honest because one vendor can’t charge more than the other,” Groves explains. They also know that consumers will ask just how their produce is farmed: If pesticide-free is important to a shopper, you can bet that they will ask. And the farmers pay attention, especially in a tough market like New York City, where 8 million consumers are clamoring for local and seasonal produce and know that they have choices.

Some of the vendors in the New York City Greenmarkets count on WIC coupons (food stamps) valued at $2 each, which the city has approved for purchasing in the greenmarkets. “This farmer, for example, tries to keep his prices around the denomination of the WIC checks,” Groves explains, since he’s serving a particular population. Thus, many lower income families can now afford to shop locally and seasonally as well. “Some of our markets now even have the EBT machines, where you can swipe your WIC card.”

Groves says that according to the Council for the Environment of New York City, the umbrella organization that sponsors the city’s greenmarkets, “The definition of local is a 280 mile radius around New York City. This includes all the way to Vermont, Ithaca, Southern New Jersey and Massachusetts.” So local doesn’t always mean just within a few miles; what’s important, according to Groves, is that local means something that can reach the consumer within a few hours, early in the morning, so consumers can eat food that was picked within a day or two of arriving to market.

We share that same passion for seasonal, local eating, so you can count on us to continue featuring products that are seasonally appropriate. We hope that over time, and with careful attention to what is at the market in your region, we can help you to understand just when each ingredient is at its peak where you are, and simply avoid any products which are not in season. After all, though we may hanker for a tomato in the dead of winter, we know that even a lovely organic Chilean tomato can’t taste nearly as good in February after sitting in a dark container for a journey of a few thousand miles. We’d rather wait for next July, when we can wander outside with a salt shaker and bite into a chin-dripper of our own.

As the leaves change to a delicate shade of orange, I’m reminded that pumpkin season is upon us. Some might naturally think of Halloween and trick or treat at a time like this, but I’d rather relish in the thought of pumpkin soups, breads and curries – those hearty dishes lure me into the kitchen with their spicy comfort. This month’s Main Ingredient is indeed that happy little orange fellow, so stay tuned for some wonderful creations from our test kitchen. We’ll then move on to pecans for our Indulgence, so I have a feeling the Pastry Princess might throw a dessert or two into the mix.

Of course, once Halloween has come and gone, you know what comes next, so we are getting our house – especially the kitchen – in order to help you survive the next few months with as little stress as possible. (Don’t forget to make use of our Entertaining section with its ready-made checklists, tips and tricks.)

And what is a feast without sumptuous décor? You can now make your table sparkle with casual elegance thanks to Serafina, the first line from our Gilded Fork Home Collection™. I’m particularly proud of this design because not only is it resplendent with rich copper and earth tones, but it is also named with a little salute to my father, Serafino.

We’ve also decided to give you a head start on your holiday shopping, so we’re excited to unveil our Gilded Gift Set collections for 2006. Mark and I have hand-picked gifts to suit every level of taste and culinary curiosity, so whether you’re looking for a hostess gift or the perfect way to spoil your favorite gourmand, our elves will lovingly pick the splendid items from our shelves and pack them with care. We have an exclusive selection of Gilded Fork-branded gifts, including brownie samplers from the delightful dudes at Sugardaddy’s® and a set of aromatic candles thanks to Soy Candles from Phebes. (Yes, we’ve enjoyed sampling all the products. Quality control is important, after all.)

October has turned out to be a month of launches and announcements, so keep an eye on our pages for even more updates. You will soon see a new section, as well as a few new shows on the Culinary Podcast Network – and a very big announcement is coming next week. Yes, it’s an odd kind of torture for me not to be able to spill the beans, but I shall do so soon enough!

Until then, take a peek around the boutique, and gear up your taste buds for some heavenly fall dishes.

The past twenty years have seen an enormous surge in the popularity of Balsamic vinegar here in the United States. This mysteriously dark and intoxicating, complex elixir tempts us as a condiment, a base for sauces, vinaigrettes and marinades, and as a flavor enhancer for meats, cheeses and even fruits. Restaurants and supermarket shelves are now crowded with many different dark caramel liquids claiming to be balsamico, and some are even quite good; but with all of the choices available today, how can you distinguish between the different kinds of balsamic vinegar?

First, we should probably dispel the misconception that there are different types of balsamic. The truth is, like many products which are associated with a specific micro-region, there really is only one aceto balsamico tradizionale di Modena. This is the aged vinegar made from the must of the Trebbiano grape in and around the city of Modena in Emilia-Romagna (in North-central Italy). The name and production are overseen by one of two Consortiums, Modena and Reggio Emilia. Anything else is either a balsamic-style vinegar or a second-rate product full of colorants made by unscrupulous companies trying to trade off the reputation of this great product. Like Champagne, Manchego cheese, Halloumi and other great traditional products of Europe, the name is protected by the European Union. Balsamics that are made outside of the Modena region but made according to the traditional method are called condimento balsamico or salsa balsamica.

The basic method for making a traditional balsamic involves pressing white Trebbiano grapes and reducing the resulting must to about half of its original volume, then aging the must in wooden barrels. Over time, the vinegar slowly evaporates, and the vinegar is moved into barrels of different wood, taking on the flavor and aroma of each successive wood. Some producers use only oak, but others use up to seven different kinds of wood.

There are different age designations for balsamic, and the consortiums monitor them very carefully and label them accordingly. The Modena consortium labels 12-year-old balsamic with a red label, 18-year-old with a silver label, and 25-year-old or older with a gold label; these labels contain the lot numbers for the vinegar, and the bottles must conform to particular standards.

Here at the Gilded Fork, we carry a number of authentic balsamics from Modena, specifically from Tondo and Fabbi, companies based in Modena. You can hear my interview with Allessandro Calveri of Nero Modena, maker of Tondo, on ReMARKable Palate Podcast #48, where he explains the barrel aging process, and the strict rules of the Consortium for packaging and labeling.

Our Fabbi vinegars come from Franco Fabbi, whose historic “acetaia” is located in Collegara Italy, in the outskirts of Modena. The story of Fabbi, though typical in its history, elicits wonder and great respect: Franco was given his first barrels by his grandfather Giambattista, who had lavished all his loving care and attention on these late 19th century gems. Franco has nurtured his vinegar, aging it in these old barrels and more that he added over the years, using the simple yet powerful wisdom of the generations. He now has more than 1300 barrels, and is one of the most well respected vinegar makers in the region.

Many have asked what the differences are among the various years of balsamicos, and we realize it might be somewhat confusing to have so many choices, so we’d like to offer a bit of insight to help you choose which best suits your palate and the dishes you are serving.

The 25-year aged balsamico is so concentrated and flavorful that you should use it in the simplest of ways, such as drizzling it in tiny amounts over aged Parmigiano Reggiano. Because the Trebbiano grapes are grown on the slopes overlooking the fields of the grass on which the cows feed, this pairing is exquisite, and sings with the singular terroir of Emilia Romagna.

The 5-, 8-, 12- and 15-year-old balsamics, which are less costly, are wonderful for drizzling over meats such as the Prosciutto di Parma of the same region, and they make for exquisite vinaigrettes when matched with the best quality extra virgin olive oil you can find. Given the nature of the aging process, the older the vinegar, the more complex the flavor.

We encourage you to experiment and purchase the vinegars you can afford, and let their unique flavors and aromas speak to you in your cooking – but always allow them to play a lead role in the dish. The key is to indulge yourself and reward your own senses; often we will purchase such gifts for others, but don’t be afraid to spoil yourself once in a while!

Can you feel that? It’s the first hint of a refreshing fall breeze, awakening our senses to kick into overdrive as we happily return to the kitchen. I become giddy when that air hits me, as I suddenly feel alive again after months of humidity and stale air conditioning. Most importantly (thank heaven, earth and the Lucky Charms elf), it is back-to-school time, so the neighborhood has returned to its sublime state of quiet. It’s almost enough to make me put away the slingshot, though the birds are getting a bit chatty.

Our thoughts this month have turned to figs in their autumnal splendor, and there is little wonder that Adam and Eve chose the leaves of such a beloved fruit to cover their delicate parts. The seductive fig is the taste of Eden itself, if you ask me.

My taste memory holds a special place for these little beauties, as my father’s carefully nurtured fig tree graced our table with its bounty throughout my childhood. He crafted a little corner of Italy in our back yard, complete with grapevine, fig and pitch trees. (Those are peach trees to you and me.)

Though the grapes and pitches didn’t produce ideal fruit, the figs were marvelous. Each winter my mother would carefully cover the tree’s branches with socks, then wrap the whole thing in burlap and tarp to protect it from the cold; I suppose we should have named it, given its status as the eighth child in our family. Sadly, when the tree was moved so we could put in the pool, it never again took root. To this day my mother insists the fig tree was insulted, and given her garden prowess I’ve chosen not to argue. Plus, she’s keeping my lemongrass plant alive, so I don’t want to provoke her.

We’ve also returned to our fall topic of cheese as September’s Indulgence, and as the entertaining season is upon us, our Test Kitchen dossier for the second half of the month will focus on that wonder of the table, the cheese course. When done well, it elevates any meal to a state of elegance, so we shall arm you with all you need to know. Until then we are reveling in a figgy frenzy, including the dessert in this month’s dinner party menu, so prepare your senses for a taste of early autumn.

In short order we shall also reveal our holiday gift collection in the Gilded Fork Boutique, and we’ve assembled enough wonderful treats that you need look no further for your gourmet gift shopping. We’ve even got options for edge-loving brownie eaters and non-, so how’s that for thorough? Don’t forget to sign up for our Gilded Select™ newsletter, because we’ll be including special offers in our weekly mailings from now through December. Don’t say we didn’t warn you.

We’re also delighted to formally welcome wine writer Lenn Thompson to our masthead. If you’ve been following Lenn’s blog, LENNDEVOURS, you know that he’s been dabbling in New York wines for quite some time, and he’s now writing for a number of wine publications, so we’re grateful for his participation. Lenn will be our resident pairing advisor for the Mise en Place menu each month, so never again shall you be left wondering what on earth to serve with your meal. With Alder, Lenn and Damian here to quench your beverage curiosities, we hope you’ll find helpful tips and insights to further your liquid education.

Now get that apron on, because it’s time to get back into the kitchen!

I’m one lucky guy. Not only do I get to do what I love – preparing, serving, writing and talking about food all day – but I really am blessed to be associated with some really great people who do the same. In addition to Jennifer and the wonderful Test Kitchen crew here at the Gilded Fork, I am also a member of the United States Personal Chef Association, a one-of-a-kind organization filled with people who love to nurture and to share of themselves. Every year, we meet for a national conference to share ideas, business strategies, and recipes. And let me tell you, these chefs can party!

This year’s conference took place in St. Louis, the Gateway City, and the theme was “Gateway to Gourmet.” Each day saw numerous sessions, most led by personal chefs offering tips and tricks from their own experience, as well as guest lectures from local restaurateurs and food experts. Some of the classes on offer: Cooking with Unusual Ingredients, Creating Fabulous Vegan Food, Personal Chef Fitness, Pressure Cooking with Grains, Kosher Cooking, Nutrition Therapy and Caribbean Flavors.

Among the demos given by local chefs were a Seafood Demo led by Bob Mepham of Bob’s Seafood, Bernard Pilon, Executive Chef of the Norwood Hills Country Club, and Brian Durnbin, Head Chef of Buck’s Restaurant. The French Cuisine class was taught by Leon Bierbaum and Chef Eric Brenner, Owner and Executive Chef at Chez Leon, St. Louis’s finest French Restaurant. The highlight for me was a class on Cooking with Beer led by Mitch Turner of Schlafly Brewery – I think it had something to do with the fact that he was giving out samples of the many brews they produce (at 10 AM, no less!). I particularly liked the Raspberry Hefeweizen, the American Pale Ale and the Oatmeal Stout, which would make a lovely addition to a batch of chili!

Each day the luncheon was headlined by a guest speaker who had some connection to the culinary heritage of St. Louis. Monsignor Sal Polizzi gave a wonderful history of “The Hill,” the storied Italian neighborhood of St. Louis. A working class neighborhood, The Hill has for more than a century been home to poor immigrant Italians who did their best with what they had, recreating dishes of their hometowns and inventing new dishes, including the toasted ravioli which has become the town’s signature dish. Legend has it that a woman helping out in a restaurant kitchen accidentally dropped a batch of ravioli in the fryer instead of the boiling water; because she was poor and quite frugal, she ate them rather then throwing them out. When she discovered just how good they were, she pointed it out to the chef, who put them on the menu, along with some spicy marinara!

Suzanne Corbett spoke about the history of the Soulard Market, St. Louis’ Nineteenth Century gem of a covered marketplace, which is claimed to be the oldest continually operated food market in the US. Designed after the foundling hospital in Florence built by Brunelleschi, architect of the Duomo, the Soulard market brings together countless farmers from the region, as well as fishmongers, butchers and spice purveyors in the central hall.

The highlight of the Luncheon speakers was Mary Gunderson, who gave an impassioned narrative of the journey undertaken by Lewis and Clark, told through their journals. Her book, The Food Journal of Lewis and Clark: Recipes for an Expedition recreates many of the dishes they describe and adapts them for the home cook. Her unique approach to food history, Paleocuisineology, brings the foods to life for audiences of every type, including children. You can hear Mary’s narrative and her passion on the ReMARKable Palate Podcast #51, and her book is now available in our boutique.

Photo: Mark Tafoya

And as I mentioned, these personal chefs can party! The day before the conference began, a special day for Certified Personal Chefs took us on a tour of the town, hitting the Soulard Market, The Hill, and the Anheuser-Busch Brewery (complete with samples), finishing up with an Italian meal served 40 stories up just across from the Gateway Arch.

The Canadian delegation hosted their yearly party and bestowing of the “Bloody Thumb Awards,” which honor those of us who have done some pretty stupid things during the course of the year. I’m embarrassed to say that I took fourth place in this contest for my unfortunate tale of serving “Dinner and a Show.” Let’s just say it’s never a good idea to drop water droplets into a pot of boiling fondue oil! The Icewine and the Molson’s sure helped us to nurse our wounds, though.

Of course, the real highlight of every conference is always reconnecting with old friends and making new ones amidst the friendly atmosphere. I have never been associated with a professional organization filled with so many warm and caring people. There’s a pervasive atmosphere of sharing and helping which draws people back year after year. Next year the USPCA National Conference will be held in Philadelphia, an appropriate choice, since we might call the USPCA the organization of brotherly love.
[Editor’s Note: Chef Mark has modestly neglected an important detail from the conference, so we would like to toot his horn and congratulate him for taking home the USPCA’s Marketer of the Year award!]

It’s very hard to focus at this time of year; I find my thoughts drifting all over the place, and sometimes I want to do nothing more than make a Margarita and sit by the pool. However, work beckons. Sigh.
August is supposed to be about kicking back and savoring those last moments of penetrating sunshine. Yes, they’ll still be here in September, but it isn’t quite the same – this is the one time of year you can get away with flip-flops in just about any setting. Life is all about grilling, avoiding use of the oven at all costs, and skinny dipping. (Did I just write that out loud?)

When my mind conjures up visions of sultry summer nights, it veers toward thoughts of places like Savannah, Georgia, where a Southern Belle might be sitting on a back porch with a tall glass of icy, sweet tea (perhaps spiked for good measure). I just spent a week in Atlanta, and I must say this: That the fine folks of the South can keep their tempers in such oppressive humidity is a testament to their politesse – in New York we just get kind of cranky. Ok, more than kind of. And yes, I did somewhat take a “vacation,” but that doesn’t count because I had to work during some of it, so hush.

Hopefully you will be spending some part of this month at the beach, and I promise to feel envious at least once a day for those who might be digging their toes into soft, white sand as I slave away at this keyboard. I refuse to be bitter, however, and instead choose to assist you in making the most of such a celebration. See, I’m working on that New York thing.

The natural fit for beaches and backyard grilling is that summer seafood staple (and this month’s Main Ingredient), the lobster. We’ve created a number of ways to showcase our little red friend, and in a salute to classic pairings we are featuring vanilla as this month’s Indulgence. We’ll feature that by itself as well, because while many think vanilla is one of those bland ingredients (shame on the people who started that nasty rumor), we find it to be quite decadent and sinfully delicious. We do have a knack for delving into sinful things, and for the record we’re mighty proud of it.

I’m also delighted to welcome our new resident mixologist to the Gilded Fork house: Damian Sim of Provocachic™ in Singapore will be crafting an innovative cocktail each month featuring one of our ingredients, which will add a creative twist to your entertaining. We encourage you to stir, shake and sip right along with us.

And in case you haven’t visited our boutique in a while (of course you’ve already visited at least once), we’ve just added a new line of balsamic vinegars from Modena to our shelves. Fabbi Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale comes in the loveliest little bottles, and makes a wonderful gift. We are featuring balsamics that have been aged 5, 8, 15, and 25 years, and these are a sure way to enhance your summer salads, fruit dishes, desserts and anything else you can think of that requires drizzling. I might even try it on a little scoop of vanilla ice cream.

So off to the beach or the backyard, you summer slackers, and please think of me as you are sipping a refreshing cocktail. I expect a full report of the debauchery as soon as you have recovered from your splendor.

Welcome to the first of my monthly editorials from behind the scenes! Here, I’ll take off my apron and come out front to give you some insights from the test kitchen of the Gilded Fork, as well as share news about trends and developments in the food world from my own culinary perspective.

It’s appropriate that we begin this column in the month of July. While most people were trying to take it easy and beat the heat last week, we food people were convening at the Jacob Javits Center in New York City for the NASFT Fancy Food Show (the NASFT is the National Association for the Specialty Food Trade). The Fancy Food Show is the biggest convention of the year at which large manufacturers and small artisans alike unveil their new products to industry decision makers, and it’s quite a scene: Retailers, distributors, importers and food media crawl the aisles sampling products and making deals.

This year’s show featured 160,000 specialty food products from more than 1,800 domestic exhibitors, and 500 international companies from 71 countries. With so many products on the floor, it was nearly impossible to taste them all! We did try, though, managing to find several standouts. You can hear short clips from some of the many interviews I did on the ReMARKable Palate Podcast #47, with extended interviews with many more to come in the upcoming months on both ReMARKable Palate and Food Philosophy.

Here are some of the standout new products:

Tondo Vinegars
Nero Modena, from the world famous food capital of Emiglia Romagna, has just released a line of fine balsamic vinegars under the label of Tondo. We are proud to carry Tondo’s great line of products in our Gilded Fork Boutique: The Tondo 12-year aged Balsamico (250 ml bottle with gift box), the exquisite 12-year and 25-year 100 ml bottles (come with certification in beautiful boxes), and the dark and white balsamic creams, which are thicker and great for garnishing plates and accenting desserts. We spoke with Nero Modena’s founder Alessandro Calveri at length, and you’ll hear the full story of the birth and development of these fine products on an upcoming podcast. Alessandro described the strictly controlled process of aging the vinegar in oak barrels and the labeling by the Consortium, and explained that the name “Tondo” refers to the distinctive spiral swirl of balsamic featured in their logo.

Origen Vinegars
From Old Europe to the New World! This is an amazing story of female entrepreneurship: Verónica Larraín, a vintner, partnered with longtime friend María Inés Irarrazaval to create fine vinegars showcasing the best Chilean wine. They wondered why a country so rich in viticulture, producing some of the most respected wines in the world, was not producing equally good vinegars, and using their knowledge of wine, the ladies launched Origen and crafted a line of 8 quality vinegars that we loved. Four of them are based on fine Chardonnay wine from the Casablanca Valley: A plain Chardonnay vinegar; Mandarina, from tangerines; Almendra Tostada from toasted almonds; and Ají Verde, macerated with Green Chile. The four red varieties are made from Cabernet Sauvignon from the Colchagua Valley, and include the barrel-aged Cabernet Sauvignon; Frutos Rojos, from cherries and raspberries; Menta from mint; and Albahaca from basil.

Tobago Wild
This new company offers fresh, hand-line caught fish from the waters of the Eastern Caribbean. They work with skilled fisherman all around the island of Tobago to bring in Blackfin Tuna, Wahoo, Mahi Mahi, Amberjack, Grouper and Snapper. With their HACCP (Hazard Analysis and Critical Control Point) controls and express delivery, they are able to bring the highest quality, safe fish from the water to your door overnight. We will be featuring Tobago Wild here at the Gilded Fork in the coming months.

Aguibal
We fell in love with the story of Aguibal, a husband and wife team and company based in New Jersey that brings fine products from Andalusia to the US market. Soraya Aguilar is from the town of Linares, near Jaen in the south of Spain. Her parents have an olive grove, and produce three different olive oils: a Picual, a Manzanilla, and an Arbequina, which are cold pressed and bottled on site. Her husband Tim Balshi (the name Aguibal comes from the combination of their last names) imports the olive oil, along with a fine artisanal Pan de Higo, or fig bread, which is a typical product from the Cordoba region of Andalusia.

Tamaya Gourmet
We spoke at length with Daniel Vitis, general manager of Tamaya Gourmet, about the carica, an interesting indigenous fruit from high in the Atacama Desert of Chile. Related to the papaya and the fig, the carica is very rare and hard to grow, but lusciously sweet. A bright yellow, the fruit is highly perishable, so they quickly preserve and bottle it in a light syrup that enhances its natural flavor. Chefs are using it in many applications both sweet and savory, from desserts to grilled shrimp and ceviches. The carica, like the papaya, has enzymes which tenderize protein, so it is a good pairing with meats, and serves as a sweet and firm fruit for making desserts.

Yummie Confections and Clothing
We were seduced by the sweet smile and bubbly spirit of Laura Waitze Zuckerman, a housewife and former film production assistant who decided to turn her love of chocolate and candies into a business, Yummie Confections & Clothing. She makes an assortment of decadent chocolates, including the whimsical bolitos, which are dark chocolates filled with a white chocolate core and an inner filling of peanut butter, kind of like the earth’s core mantle and crust, only yummier! She also makes baby clothing and slightly sexier women’s clothing with the yummie logo and kiss on them.

You can look forward to hearing more from the many great producers we met at the show, both on the Culinary Podcast Network and here on the website. Next month I will bring you a recap of the United States Personal Chef Association National conference, which will take place the first weekend of August in St. Louis Missouri. Until then, you can find me in the kitchen!

Photos: Mark Tafoya

Mark and I shared a chuckle the other day, as we learned that our recent expansion of Gilded Fork activities has led some people (and other companies) to believe we are a big corporation. In many ways we find that very flattering, as it means that our work here is professional and worthy of an audience. In others ways we share concern that you, our readers, might not know it’s still us behind this gilded curtain.

The work you see here at the Gilded Fork – all of it – has been put together by a very dedicated, passionate group of volunteers who want to talk about food in a new way: Mark and I have continued our day jobs while plugging away at our vision for this place during every spare waking moment (and many times the ones that should be spent sleeping). Our view of the future has in turn inspired others, and they have joined us here to create the recipes, tips and articles you see each day. No one here has yet made a dollar – and it’s because we’ve asked this magnificent group of people to bear with us as we attempt to create a new media model that is free of the ad clutter and promotional junk you tend to see on other sites.

We have every intention of making money with the Gilded Fork as a company – lots of it – but we’ve decided to do it at our own pace, and with the right kind of attitude. We’re shooting for quality over quick (small) dollars.

In the spirit of that, we ask that you please tell your friends if you like what you see here, and help our audience to grow as we continue to deliver the quality content you’ve come to expect from us. Please also keep in mind that our boutique sales will go toward supporting the people who have worked so very hard to make this site what it is, and what it will become in the future. Though it started out with me, a laptop and a tray table, I am proud to see what the Gilded Fork has become due to the dedication of the individuals here.

I may still be updating every web page (I’m at a real desk now), and Mark is still editing every recipe, but when we aren’t doing that we are building editorial calendars, running to meetings, developing partnerships, and having a ball as we see the momentum we are gaining in the world of food media. Once in a while we’ll stop and say to ourselves, “It’s working!”

We want to thank you for helping us make it work, and for visiting us as much as you do. Part of our goal is to build a community of like-minded people who share our intense love of cuisine and all it means, so we hope you’ll join us in the forum for a candid discussion of food, of life, and of celebration. (Did we mention we’d love to see you in the forum?) We also hope you’ll sign up for our newsletter and become a Gilded Select™ member; there are rewards present and future to be reaped from gilding thyself.

Now on to more serious gastronomic matters: this month we are delving into that midsummer delight, the peach. Accented with a touch of ginger for our Indulgence, this fuzz-covered fruit is one that continues to delight palates of all ages, and it’s certainly caught our attention. (Yes, we know it’s an aphrodisiac.) We’ll also have renowned pastry chef Gale Gand with us to wax philosophically about life in her kitchen – and if you’re really, really good she might share a pastry recipe or two. With all that in mind, do get thee to a farmer’s market and stock up on juicy peaches, because there’s lots of cooking to be done.

Later this month, look for Mark’s new column, The Chef’s Table, where he’ll share his monthly tidbits from behind the kitchen door, including our new Gilded Fork at Home™ series of cooking classes and tasting dinners. He’s recapped our most recent tasting dinner on his blog, so take a peek at us in some snazzy chef coats and see the colorful array of dishes we served to an eager crowd.

In crafting a vision for the Gilded Fork, we decided that not only would it be a place where avid cooks could come to celebrate the sensual pleasures of food and wine, but it would also be a haven for new cooks eager to learn. The underlying theme in all of that is a dedication to highlighting cuisine at its roots, where fundamentals share equal importance with more complex ingredients and methods.

As a result, we decided to dedicate this month of June to a couple of kitchen classics: garlic and olive oil. For me, these two ingredients have been a critical part of cooking for as long as I can remember, and they are omnipresent in my kitchen; both have such versatility that it’s hard to fathom cooking without them.

Rather than delve into overly complex recipes, we decided to provide an informative look at the different ways in which these ingredients can be used, and the difference among varieties from around the world.

We have a special kind of fondness for simplicity and purity in our cooking, and we find it provides a nice balance when compared to our expostulations of creativity. It enables us to rekindle our appreciation for the simplest of dishes, and the purest of flavors.

This will be also be a month of announcements at the Gilded Fork, as we are about to roll out a series of features both on and offline that will enhance your cooking experience, give you the tools you need to succeed in the kitchen, and deepen your own levels of passion for cooking and eating.

The first of these is the Gilded Fork at Home™ series we announced last week, where we bring our expertise and passion right into your own kitchen or dining room. Whether you are eager to learn fundamental skills or want to share an evening with friends as we dabble in culinary delights, we’ve found that the personal interaction offered in such a setting is unforgettable. If you have even an inkling of interest in a unique experience like this, get in touch with us, as we are building a database of happy cooks and eager gastronomes in areas around the country. And if you’re hesitant to contact us because you think it might be too expensive to host a private event, know that we are also building group events so you can connect with others in a setting that won’t break the bank (don’t worry, we still won’t make you wash the dishes).

If you haven’t yet subscribed to our newsletter to become a Gilded Select™ member, this would be a great time to do it, as each of our new initiatives will come with special offers for our Gilded Select members. This gives us an opportunity to thank those of you who have been with us through this first stage of growth, and gives you an opportunity to reap the benefits of that, as well as interact with us on an even more personal level.

I also have an important announcement to make with regard to our own internal structure, and it’s one that makes me proud to see the way this site has grown since its inception. The Gilded Fork, LLC is now officially a new media company, and is co-owned by our wonderful executive chef and my dear friend, Mark Tafoya. He and I share not only a philosophy and sense of life, but a vision to blaze a new trail in the world of food media that is meaningful, passionate, and above all, fun. The Culinary Podcast Network is just the first step in what we see as a way to change the way people interact with food, and with us.

We’ve received a good deal of feedback from our readers and other media out there, and there are now pages on the site where you can see more about the buzz we’ve generated. This is a very exciting time for us, and we’re glad you are here so we can share the good news with you.

We hope you will continue with us on this journey, as you are an integral part of how far we’ve come. Your words of praise and constructive criticism help us to continually strive toward making this the best food site on the internet, so what you have to say is important to us. We encourage you to share your thoughts with us because the more we know, the more we can improve and add the tools you want to use. You can send us an e-mail at feedback AT gildedfork.com or leave a message in our MyChingo recorder in the sidebar.

Now it is off to Summer days, outdoor cooking, and all the things that make this time of year one of our favorites. We’re delighted you’re here to celebrate it with us.
Photo: Donald Gruener

Now that I have been Executive Chef of the Gilded Fork for a few months, I’ve had some time to arrange the kitchen the way I like it, and have started to put my culinary imprint on the site. As you may know, I love international cuisine – in fact, it’s the premise behind these Remarkable Palate articles. In the coming months, you’ll start to see even more international flavors represented both in this column and in our recipes.

To that end, I have developed a series of classes introducing people to the international cuisines that have inspired me most in my own cooking, and we’ve begun to present these classes live and in person throughout the country. I recently had the opportunity to give four of them at the Williams-Sonoma store in Albuquerque, New Mexico, and it gave me a nice chance to hone the curriculum, as well as to see how people would receive the dishes. The classes included A Taste of Vietnam, A Taste of Umbria, A Taste of Persia and Small Plates Around the World.

Developing these classes as “A Taste of…” has enabled me to give a short introduction to the flavors and techniques of each of the cultures while keeping the class to a short two hours, and of course, giving the students a chance to make and taste up to four dishes (the best part!). I believe firmly that any cooking class should have an interactive element, since there’s no better way to learn than by doing (plus it allows me to get away with not doing all the work!). It’s also very gratifying to taste the fruits of one’s own labor, so students become part of the entire culinary journey.

“A Taste of…” stems from the premise that we Americans have tended to be rather isolated from world cuisines in the past, eating mostly our own American foods at home and French haute cuisine at fine dining establishments. True, in the past twenty years, it has become much easier to find food from other countries, and unusual tastes are no longer derided as “weird.” However, when it comes to cooking ethnic foods for ourselves at home, we have not ventured beyond the usual suspects: Red sauce-based Italian foods, Mexican night, and perhaps the occasional stir fry. As more ethnic haunts pop up in just about every corner of the U.S., we find ourselves eating sushi, pad thai, arepas, tagines, and gyros, but we’re not crafting these same dishes at home.

When I put together the list of dishes for each of the classes, I wanted to delve deeper, moving beyond the typical and better known dishes of world cuisines, and focusing on micro-regional dishes from the cultures I love. So instead of teaching an “Italian” cooking class, I took it as my opportunity to introduce students to the foods and ingredients of Umbria, the landlocked region of central Italy and neighbor to both Tuscany and Lazio. Most Americans know and love the food of Tuscany, and rightly so: Florentine cooking, the wines of Chianti and the lavender fields of Tuscany deserve their place in the hearts of anyone who has had the good fortune to travel there. But I have always been a fan of the underdog, and love to promote the lesser- known-yet-fabulous. This is why I am a champion of the cuisine of Umbria, the “Green Heart of Italy,” which is known for its truffles, wild boar, wood pigeon and lake eel, and is the production center of as much as 40% of all pasta made in Italy. A Taste of Umbria has students learning to make Wild Mushroom Bruschetta with Polenta, Tegamaccio (a fish stew from Lake Trasimeno in central Umbria) and Poached Pears in Sagrantino wine.

A Taste of Persia was an opportunity for students to take a culinary voyage through the foods of Iran. Ancient Persia was at the crossroads of history and culture; once the center of the known world, Persia influenced most other Mediterranean and Middle Eastern cultures. Using more subtle herbs and flavorings than many other Middle Eastern foods, Persian cuisine is based on ancient principles of “hot” and “cold” foods, and strives to balance body and soul through diet; saffron, sumac, fenugreek, pomegranates and rose water figure prominently. In this class, we explored the basics of Persian rice, Polow; Kuku Sabzi, an herbed fritatta; Khoresh, a method of stewing almost anything; and we finished with a Honeyed Almond Brittle made with saffron and rose water (a couple of these recipes have already appeared here at the Gilded Fork).

I had a similar approach with A Taste of Vietnam, introducing students to the building blocks of this fun and easy Southeast Asian cuisine. We began with a brief introduction of Vietnamese cuisine, influenced by its geography and history, as well as European influences. Then we launched into the basics of Rice Paper and how to handle it, which forms the base skill for making an assortment of Vietnamese summer rolls. Students made their own rolls using a variety of Asian fillings, as well as nuoc cham nem dipping sauce, redolent with lime juice and fish sauce. The class concluded with a demonstration of how to make Vietnamese Lemongrass Chicken.

My final class was called Small Plates Around the World, and in it we explored the concept of tapas, dim sum, and mezes, small plates and hand snacks found in many different cultures (a great impetus for hosting an hors d’oeuvres party). I led the class on an exploration of Albondigas, stuffed grape leaves, kataifi, bruschetta and potstickers.

What struck me most about teaching this series was how eager students were to learn about the tastes and techniques of different countries. I was surprised to find that several of the students had signed up for multiple classes – one gentleman actually came to all four! It was clear to me that there is a culinary renaissance going on in the U.S.: We are eager to learn not just how to eat, but also how to make foods from many different cultures. It really encouraged me to see this, and you will start to see more and more ethnic delights appearing here at The Gilded Fork in the coming months.

As I stated earlier, we are now offering these and other classes in locations around the country – including your very own kitchen. If you are interested in having one of our Gilded Fork at Home™ classes where you live, let us know, and we’ll bring these sumptuous flavors to your doorstep. In the meantime, you can hear audio coverage of my Small Plates class on ReMARKable Palate podcast Episode #37. I’ll be featuring A Taste of Umbria on an upcoming show.

We are very eager to share these culinary voyages with you, as we see food as a conversation that brings vastly different cultures together for a sumptuous feast.

Did anyone notice where April went? I seem to have misplaced it, because the last time I checked I’m sure it was March. Suddenly I can go outside without a jacket (on the rare occasions when time permits it), and those twittering birds are so loud that they inadvertently made an appearance in my last Food Philosophy podcast, which had to be re-recorded. Perhaps I’ll leave them in next time so it sounds like I’m in the midst of a forest, à la Snow White. The kitchen elves can stand in as dwarves.

We’re having a blast with the Culinary Podcast Network, which has lots of developments underway. It now has its own home on our forum, with sections for each show, so feel free to leave your feedback on any of them. Soon we’ll launch a round table discussion on pressing topics in the world of food, where a group of us will chew on the various controversies that abound regarding food choices, laws, and the things that push our buttons.

I love the ease with which new media enables us to communicate with all of you, and in whatever means you find most inviting. Some of you listen to our podcasts on the way to work, others surf our recipes while you’re at work (we won’t tell), and some of you check out our musings on the weekend or in the evening. We love that we can be here whenever (and wherever) you need us. There is lots being added to the mix, some of which is coming this month, and it’s hard not to spill the beans about it! However, as I’ve been threatened with duct tape, suffice it to say that we are constantly developing new features to make your experience here more inviting and fulfilling, and we’ll announce them as soon as they are ready.

We’ve also begun traveling to different cities to host cooking classes and tasting experiences, which is terribly exciting because it means we get to leave the office and interact with you in three dimensions. Chef Mark was at Williams-Sonoma in Albuquerque last month, and I’ll be in Atlanta in June for a series of demos and classes. Things are also underway here at our Hudson Valley home, so the summer is going to be quite busy. We’ll send updates on classes and events as they become available, so keep an eye out for that. Whether you want to host a class or dinner in your home, or you prefer to attend a tasting at a restaurant, we’re creating an array of choices for the pleasures of your palate.

One project close to my heart is the Bachelor’s Boot Camp, which was borne out of a response to the many questions I get from, yes, bachelors, who seek knowledge in the realm of the kitchen. That will become a podcast and class series of its own very shortly.

This month at the Gilded Fork we are delving into the pleasures of fennel and morel mushrooms, as they offer bright flavor and compelling texture, and to us they just scream Spring. Fennel is an extremely versatile ingredient, and we are slicing it, dicing it, roasting it, and anything else we can think of. Morels, those cute little spongy mushrooms, are a rare Springtime treat, and we love how their nooks and crannies serve as perfect holders for sauces. If you are hosting Mom for a Mother’s Day meal, don’t forget to take a peek at our Mother’s Day Mise en Place menu, whose combination of flavor, color and texture is sure to please that wonderful lady. We’ve even posted wine pairings from our friend Lenn Thompson to make it all effortless.

Lastly, you may have noticed a little recorder in our sidebar. It’s called MyChingo, and it enables you, with a click, to leave a voice mail message for us. We are eager to get a conversation going, so we hope you will communicate and share your thoughts with us. We’ll also leave updates there periodically, so keep an ear out for those.

We recommend that you sign up for our newsletter and become a Gilded Select member, because those exciting developments I can’t talk about will be announced there first!