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This Week in Food #234: Chicago Restaurant Favorites

The Gilded Fork — Sat, 19 Jun 2010 15:37:02 +0000

This Week in Food #234: Chicago Restaurant Favorites

This week I am all alone in the podcast loft. Often, I am asked which are my favorite restaurants in Chicago. My wife and I visited one of our those restaurants last night and I decided to talk a few of the restaurants I visit the most. They are Tavern at the Park, R.J. Grunts and Mon Ami Gabi. These three represent the best in food and good service. When you visit Chicago, I think you should try them.

CHIC200: Chef Herve Chabert

The Gilded Fork — Sat, 24 Oct 2009 18:49:27 +0000

CHIC Podcast #200: Chef Herve Chabert

Chef Herve Chabert joins us this week for the CHIC podcast. He has a strong resume in pastry and education. He gave us demonstrations on brioche and puff pastry. We talk about his upbringing and his career. He also tells us what to look for when visiting Chicago.

CHIC185: National Restaurant Association

The Gilded Fork — Sun, 12 Jul 2009 02:24:53 +0000

CHIC Video #185: National Restaurant Association

It’s the CHIC podcast at the National Restaurant Association show in Chicago. I’ve been going to this show for many years now. It’s the largest show of its kind in the US. I love to go to look at the new equipment, taste a lot of great new food. But I also like to people watch. See if you can find some famous faces in the podcast this week. I’m just going to let you take a look at what it’s like going to the NRA show. At the end of the podcast are some demonstrations of pastry and cooking by Chef George Jack and Chef Wook Kang.

CHIC181: Allen Bros. Meats

The Gilded Fork — Sat, 13 Jun 2009 17:26:13 +0000

CHIC Podcast #181: Allen Bros. Meats

My friend, Craig Goldwyn and I took a trip to see Chef Rich Naglich at Allen Bros. Meats down on the South side of Chicago. Chef Rich gave us a great tour and we had some time to talk about meat and where he sees it going in the future. Its a fun discussion and tour of the best meat in the country.

CHICVideo: The New Deck Oven in Action

The Gilded Fork — Sat, 30 May 2009 21:10:42 +0000

In the last couple of months we have taken delivery of a new steam injected Bongard deck oven. What does that mean for our baking? It means crusty, flavorful bread! We have been making bread that I never thought was possible. Watch as our faculty learn how to use the oven and how it affects our students.

CHIC178: National Restaurant Association

The Gilded Fork — Sat, 23 May 2009 15:08:48 +0000

CHIC Podcast #178: National Restaurant Association

Some weeks are just jam-packed with fun stuff to do and taste. This is one of those weeks. On Sunday, I went to the NRA show and saw many interesting things. The show was still very large but there was not much growth since the last time I attended. I also talk about what’s coming up in the next few weeks on the CHIC podcast.

CHIC173: All Around CHIC

The Gilded Fork — Sat, 18 Apr 2009 13:22:51 +0000

CHIC Podcast #173: All Around CHIC

This week we’re all around CHIC. We cover a lot of ground, from Chicago to New Orleans and back. We spent last weekend with my in-laws in the crescent city. Wook Kang and I talk about NOLA cuisine and so much more.

Charlie Trotter: Food for Thought

Jennifer Iannolo — Fri, 06 Mar 2009 16:01:06 +0000

Cooking is not really that difficult. In fact, it’s more about love and touch and caring than about special techniques or magical recipes.
Charlie Trotter

It is intriguing to discover what tidbits our minds file away, only to thrust them to the surface when we least expect it. I started this adventure with the idea of presenting “Charlie Trotter on Tomatoes;” he swoons for them, too, so I was eager to capture his thoughts on such a glorious ingredient.

Then I revisited his cookbooks. Though I have read them many times, my mind has been so preoccupied with his use of colors, exotic ingredients, and innovative flavor combinations that I only subconsciously registered his commentary. Suddenly, as I re-read the pages, it seemed as if everywhere I looked, passages jumped out about sensuality, desire, touch — the things we espouse on every page of this site. Just by reading his words, I was reminded of the intensity with which he approaches his craft, the reverence he holds for even the humblest of ingredients — and the true sensualist behind the creations. Tomatoes quickly became a secondary matter.

With one look at the composition and presentation of his dishes, the aesthetic nuances of Charlie’s food philosophy spring to life; each dish is meant to tease the senses in a cacophony of color and aroma, followed by the flavor explosions that have earned him a global reputation as a culinary giant.

He often says that “cuisine is only about making foods taste the way they are supposed to taste.” On the surface, it is a simple statement, but it belies the foundation of understanding one must achieve to speak with such philosophical brevity.

That underlying commitment to purity of flavor best captures the “why” behind his creations: Each ingredient is coaxed to shine in a state of elegant purity, where the intellectual and aesthetic achieve a state of sublime harmony. The desires of his palate at a given moment dictate the “what” — what does he like to eat, and what is he in the mood for? The rest unfolds as a physical extension of this desire; his hands simply respond in a continuation of the cerebral process.

This is a man who has spent a great deal of time thinking about ingredients at their height of perfection, who constantly challenges his mind to find the cooking methods and flavor complements that will bring them to a new peak, surpassing what has been created before.

But he is also keenly aware of the impact of the physical process, and how it echoes the connection between food and sensuality:

…the art of cooking, that is the act of gathering foodstuffs, preparing them, and serving them, is among the most intimate things that we can do for another. Indeed, since every sense — touching, smelling, seeing, tasting, and hearing — is engaged, at times even profoundly, the entire process more often than not verges on the sensual. And when food and wine stimulate and excite the palate, which in turn stimulates the mind, the act of eating becomes so much more than that of attaining sustenance. It is more about achieving a higher good intellectually, spiritually, and sensually (The Kitchen Sessions, p. 15).

Eating taken to a higher plane? At his table, most certainly.

Charlie Trotter is one of the best modern examples of a food philosopher that I have had the pleasure to encounter. Given his intellectual bent (and a college minor in philosophy), this comes as no great surprise. He actually reminds me of a professor of gastronomy, one from whom I’ve learned that generosity and a deep passion for one’s craft elevate the experience of cooking — and eating — to the level of sensual profundity he mentions.

His cookbooks are peppered with quotes from literary greats, and one simply knows that there is never a book far from his hands. In conversation, he has read Dostoevsky to me one moment, then quoted Fernand Point a moment later; then sent me a copy of Ma gastronomie so I could discover it for myself. His heart and spirit share equal stature with his mind, and his contributions to cuisine — and to those eager to learn — are such that this particular student has had her own mind enriched incomparably. His cooks often say the same.

There is something about a cerebral chef that strikes a deep chord within my inner food geek/philosopher; that resonance is a source of comfort when I look at the piles of gastronomic books and tomes filling my shelves. I know that in seeking a deeper meaning for myself in the realm of gastronomy, and a better understanding of the human condition, I can look to those with a similar approach and discover something new, something that makes me eager to delve into thick books and lose myself for hours; or to feel the black earth beneath my feet as I traverse rows of crops, talking with the farmer whose hands planted the verdant creations before me. Always, there is meaning.

Thank you, Charlie.

To learn more about Charlie Trotter’s restaurants, books, shows, and products, visit www.charlietrotters.com.

To learn more about Jennifer’s first encounter with Chef Trotter, see her “In the Weeds” anecdote, Trotterism.

This article was originally published in August 2005.

CPN – Hungry Magazine #34

The Gilded Fork — Mon, 04 Jun 2007 14:46:00 +0000

Hungry Magazine # 34: Kickin it with Kleiner

Chicago restaurant impresario Jerry Kleiner (Marche, Red Light, Opera, Carnivale) makes PT Barnum look like a cheap sideshow hack. Every spot he opens nowadays is a multi-million dollar extravaganza outfitted with his personal design aesthetic, one which I like to characterize as Moulin Rouge on acid. Kleiner’s newest project is Room 21, a glammed up American style bistro. In our podcast we talk about his future goal ito bring the Kleiner flare to the common man (Kleiner diner anyone), the secrets to being an urban pioneer, and his ultimate dinner party guest list.

www.culinarypodcastnetwork.com
food, food podcast, Jerry Kleiner, Hungry, Culinary Podcast Network, Gilded Fork

Rick Tramonto: Breaking Down the Barriers

Jennifer Iannolo — Thu, 16 Feb 2006 01:08:52 +0000

For newcomers to the world of fine dining, the setting itself can often be more intimidating than the food. Suddenly one is surrounded by knowledgeable wait staff and sommeliers, and it is quite possible to feel all thumbs in trying to choose from the menu without making a fool of oneself.

Chef Rick Tramonto has made it a goal to eliminate this moment of awkwardness. TRU, the Chicago restaurant he launched with partner and Executive Pastry Chef Gale Gand in 1999, was created with the ideal of breaking down the barriers inherent in the world of haute cuisine, making the entire experience one of pleasure rather than intimidation. The name itself, an acronym for “Tramonto Unlimited,” was crafted as a constant reminder for Rick to stay true to his art, his ingredients, and that vision.

It might be hard to fathom a restaurant that is at once modern art gallery and comfort zone, as the contradiction seems insurmountable. TRU, however, is exactly that. The interior features a Warhol canvas, a Klein sculpture, and other notable modern art pieces, which might lead one to expect utter pretentiousness; the décor, however, at once plush and soothing, creates the necessary balance, so that one can enjoy the art rather than feeling overshadowed by it. The same approach is conveyed in the food, but one is not necessarily aware of this at first. One only knows that the senses begin to tingle upon being seated; the eyes go everywhere in an effort to see everything, suddenly falling upon what looks like a door from the Star Trek set. It is the kitchen door. The thought that immediately follows: “How can a chef with a Star Trek door not be completely interesting?”

Once the senses are primed, the food fulfills the promise with that same touch of whimsy and welcome. There is edible art present, but it is not so abstract as to be incomprehensible. Instead, it is clear that the cooks are having fun, and they want to share that spirit with their guests.

When these components are all combined, they make for a moment of sensory indulgence in the dining room. There is meaning in each step of the process, and one that points the spotlight on the food experience itself. By eliminating the intimidation factor, the staff is able to focus on making guests happy and satiated; the colors of the dining room soothe, and the exploring gastronome can concentrate on the sensations of his palate. Dishes are stark white to serve as a palette for the artwork crafted in the kitchen, abundant with color and flavor.

For me, the full impact of TRU’s mission was experienced in the form of a caviar staircase, which has become synonymous with the restaurant. As someone who was nauseated at the time by the very thought of eating fish roe, and the pretense associated with it, nary an egg had touched my lips. Suddenly, there was this magnificent glass creation of stairs in front of me, with steps of multi-colored abundance from Beluga to salmon to wasabi tobiko, and I suddenly felt like a child again. The whimsical presentation broke down all of those inner barriers, and the fun of assembly alone became worth the tasting experience as I covered my brioche toast with chopped eggs, red onions, wasabi tobiko, and a dollop of crème fraîche. Was this really happening?

Years later, I still remember that as a turning point in my gastronomic exploration, yet at the time I was not aware of Tramonto’s underlying philosophy – I simply had a good time and a wonderful meal. Now, from a different place along the spectrum, I’m encouraged by the thought of how many neophytes have been ushered in to the pleasures of haute cuisine with such ingenious, welcoming tactics. Rather than presenting food with the attitude of “Me chef, you pedestrian,” it is more along the lines of “We’re having a blast in here – share this with us!”

And while the kitchen team at TRU certainly enjoys exercises in creativity and the avant-garde, there is always the underlying vision to remind them why TRU exists. In an industry where scientific food is becoming ever more popular, Tramonto insists on remembering why the restaurant was created. “We’re at a crossroads with scientific food,” he says. “We want to keep up on the new techniques without losing the central theme of what we do.” He has always envisioned creating a “branded” cuisine, where one could see a dish and immediately know it came from his kitchen. The branding concept certainly worked on this consumer, because TRU’s kitchen will always be the one that “got me to eat caviar.”

Tramonto’s is a living philosophy, and one that has undoubtedly contributed to the longevity of TRU. For such a mission to succeed, it has to be genuine, and every dish that comes from his kitchen bears a virtual sign that says: “And I mean it. Now have some fun.”

Recipe: Diver Scallops with Cauliflower Cream, Lemon Confit, and Golden Osetra Caviar

www.trurestaurant.com

[Note: Should you be completely enamored with the caviar staircase, TRU does have them available for sale on their web site. Yes, it will impress your guests. No, they didn't pay me to say that.]

Trotterism

Jennifer Iannolo — Sat, 26 Feb 2005 01:35:06 +0000

All my life I had followed a strict policy against meeting my heroes. I liked to keep them preserved on their pedestals, where they would not disappoint me.

But in a singular moment, that cynicism was eradicated as I encountered a noble spirit whose consecration to his work was one I had admired for many years.

Some consider him to be a tyrant, others a genius, and still others a benevolent example of capitalism at its best. Whatever the label du jour, it cannot be denied that his impact on cuisine changed the dynamic of fine dining in America.

His name is Charlie Trotter. He is my culinary hero.

Charlie is so much more than a chef — he is a human being in constant pursuit of excellence, whether in or out of his kitchen. That his staff remains loyal through the trial by fire of working for CHT Corp. is a testament to his virtues.

The circumstances of our meeting were not what I would have chosen, but they were perhaps the most appropriate. During a culinary event in which I was managing some critical details (like ingredients), there was a rather large problem to be solved. So I solved it as best I could.

Later on, as I was walking up to meet him for the first time, I took a deep breath and thought, here comes the tirade; this man is going to go up one side of me and down the other. Based on what I had heard from former colleagues, this was going to be a moment to survive, and hopefully to forget.

Color me misled.

Instead of a tirade, what I got was a sincere thank-you for doing everything in my power to solve the problem. I nearly fell on the floor. I’m fairly certain I was glowing for the rest of the evening, despite the fact that my theories about pedestals and distance had been shattered.

To add to my sense of suspended reality, two days later I received a dinner invitation.The city was Paris. The restaurant was Alain Ducasse. The table was in the kitchen. And the host was Charlie Trotter.

I know the meal was fantastic, but the details are fuzzy, as there was a dreamlike quality surrounding it. Of course, that might have been the wine. (There was a lot of wine.) What I do remember, and always will, is that upon hearing my comment about his tomato appetizer (I am a fiend for tomatoes), he slid the plate over so I could have a bite.

That was only a sampling of the kindness and generosity he has shown me since, and I am profoundly grateful that my theory about heroes has been proven unwarranted.

I’m certain he will retain his other ‘reputation’ for as long as he is on this earth — excellence is often misunderstood. He might even enjoy it in part, because it keeps people on their toes.

But if I ever again hear someone speak ill of this man in my presence, there will be a tirade indeed. And it will take on a whole new definition.