A Khoresh may be loosely translated as “stew” in Farsi, but this highly developed and popular style of cooking is so much more than just simple stewing: the Persian focus on balance between hot and cold is always in evidence in a good Khoresh recipe.  This Khoresh-e qormeh sabzi pairs lamb with aromatic herbs, which serve to enhance the flavor of the lamb.

4 servings

Ingredients

3 tablespoons olive oil
2 pounds lamb shanks or 1 pound leg of lamb cut into 1-inch cubes
2 medium onions, peeled and thinly sliced
2 cloves garlic
1½ teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon turmeric
½ teaspoon ground saffron, dissolved in 1 tablespoon hot water
4 whole dried Persian limes (limu-omani), pierced
½ cup kidney beans
4 cups finely chopped fresh parsley
1 cup finely chopped garlic chives or scallions
1 cup finely chopped fresh coriander
1 cup chopped fresh fenugreek leaves or 4 tablespoons dried fenugreek sprinkled with warm water
2 tablespoons dried Persian lime powder (limu-omani) or 4 tablespoons fresh lime juice

[Chef’s Note: Special ingredients like Persian limes and fenugreek can be found in speciality markets. If you have a Persian community near you, there will certainly be a store stocking these and other ingredients. If not, Middle Eastern groceries may also carry these items.]

Preparation

Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a heavy bottomed Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Sauté the lamb along with the onions and garlic for about 20 minutes, or until the lamb is well browned. Stir often with a wooden spoon to prevent the meat from sticking to the bottom. Add salt, pepper, turmeric, saffron water, whole dried Persian limes, and kidney beans and sauté lightly for a few minutes longer. Pour in enough water to completely cover the lamb mixture, about 4 to 4½ cups. Bring to a boil; cover and simmer over low heat, stirring occasionally.

Heat a separate non-stick skillet over medium heat. Sauté the chopped parsley, garlic chives or scallions, coriander, and fenugreek for 10 minutes. Continue stirring for several minutes more, adding additional oil if necessary to keep the herbs from sticking to the bottom.

[Chef’s Note: This step is essential in developing the aromatic qualities of the herbs, and in flavoring the final khoresh.]

Add the sautéed herbs and lime powder (or lime juice) to the khoresh. Cover and simmer for 2½ to 3 hours over low heat, stirring occasionally,until the lamb is very tender.

Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper, and additional lime juice, if necessary. Keep warm in the oven until ready to serve.

Service

Serve warm over saffron steamed rice.

Recipe by Mark Tafoya

Mole is one of the most enigmatic and interesting foods on earth. In Mexico , its preparation and final result depends on the diversity of ingredients used from city to city, and perhaps most importantly, on the personal preferences of the cooks. It is a very personal, unique dish that with the help of your imagination and personal touch, will reach new dimensions in your kitchen.

Serves 6-8

Ingredients

2 medium dried ancho chiles, stemmed, seeded, and membranes removed
2 dried mulato or pasilla chiles, stemmed, seeded, and membranes removed
2 chipotle chiles in adobo sauce (canned), seeded
4 cups chicken or beef broth, divided
5 tablespoons olive oil, divided
1 large ripe dark-skinned plantain, peeled and thickly sliced
½ medium onion, chopped
8 oz. (3-4) ripe plum tomatoes
2 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
3/4 cup dry-roasted, unsalted cashews
¼ cup whole almonds
¼ cup raisins
1 tablespoon sesame seeds
1 tablespoon roasted peanuts
1 1-inch slice from a firm French bread or Mexican bolillo, torn into pieces
½ teaspoon Mexican canela (cinnamon), ground
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon dried oregano
½ cup dry sherry ( jerez )
4 oz. Mexican chocolate, chopped
1 teaspoon salt, or to taste (depending on how salty the broth is)
freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Preparation

Heat an ungreased medium skillet over medium-high heat and toast all the dried chiles until they begin to change color (about 15 seconds each side). Be careful not to burn them, as that will add a bitter taste to the mole. Using tongs, transfer chiles to a large pot and add 2 cups of chicken or beef broth, bring to boil, then reduce heat and simmer uncovered for 25 minutes until chiles are very soft, stirring occasionally  to ensure even soaking. Strain liquid and reserve. Chop chiles.

Place 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a heavy, medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the ripe plantain pieces and sauté until golden brown, about 3 minutes.  Using slotted spoon, transfer to paper towels to remove the excess of oil. Add the onion, garlic cloves, tomatoes and fry, stirring regularly until they are well browned, no more than 10 minutes. Scrape the mixture into a blender or food processor along with the cooked plantains, cashews, almonds, raisins, sesame seeds, peanuts, bread, drained chipotles and other chiles, cinnamon, cumin seeds, and dried oregano. Add 2 cups of the broth (you could use the reserved liquid from rehydrating the chiles) and blend until smooth. Remember to stir and scrape down the sides of mixture, adding extra broth if needed to keep everything moving and ensure a smooth mixture. Press the mixture through a sieve into a bowl.

Heat the remaining 3 tablespoons of olive oil in the saucepan over high heat. When you see smoke rising from the saucepan, add the chile mixture all at once. Reduce heat and simmer, stirring constantly for 5 minutes, then add the chocolate, dry sherry and reserved 2 cups of chicken or beef broth to the mole. Simmer over low heat, partially covering the pot,  for 40 minutes, stirring regularly to integrate all the flavors. You can thin the molé with additional broth to keep it the consistency of a creamy soup. Adjust seasonings and serve warm with roasted chicken, cashews, and steamed rice.

[Chef’s Note: This is a very time consuming dish to make, but the results are definitely worth the effort…right up to the last bite. Start three days ahead. Although traditionally in Mexico the molé is served with turkey, the chosen protein is really not that important because the star is the molé itself. Serve it with any kind of meat: chicken, turkey, beef, pork, shrimp, or just plain with steamed white rice. This mole will keep well in a tightly covered container in the refrigerator for up to 5 days, or frozen for up to a month. If you choose to freeze the leftover mole, thaw it in the refrigerator and then heat in a saucepan or microwave oven, adding some chicken broth if needed.]

Recipe and photo by Melissa DeLeon Douglass

You can make this dish with either of the sauces or both for a nice visual and taste bud treat. We used free-range veal here, as the cook in charge (in this case our talented photographer Kelly Cline) is convinced it has more flavor while remaining succulent. You can also substitute chicken breast in this recipe.

Serves 4

Ingredients

For the roulade:
1-lb. veal cutlet (ask the butcher to cut it about 5/8″ thick from a whole top round)
Two pinches sea salt, finely ground
3 Leek Leaves, opened with the green tops cut off, softened in warm salt water
1 cup Wild Rice with Leeks and Portabello Mushrooms (recipe below)
2 tablespoons melted butter
½ cup fresh chervil, finely chopped

For the sauces:
Savory Chocolate Gravy (recipe below)
Creamy Leek Sauce (recipe below)

Preparation

For the leeks:
Soak leeks in a water bath to remove the dirt and carefully remove. Place them into a warm salt water bath to soften.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

For the veal:
Pound the veal cutlet until it is a thin rectangle (about 5″x10″), being careful not to pierce any holes in it with your mallet (or the filling will spill out). Lay the pounded cutlet on a large piece of parchment (or wax) paper to ease in the rolling process. Lay the cutlet down on the paper and season it with a pinch of finely ground sea salt.

[Chef’s Note: If you do not have a kitchen mallet, you can also use a heavy pan or rolling pin to pound out the veal cutlet.]

Remove the leeks from the bath and lay them slightly left of center of the cutlet, parallel to the long sides. Spoon and spread the rice mixture evenly over the leek sheets.

Carefully roll the veal cutlet and stuffing, using the parchment paper to help keep the shape of the roll. Tie it with kitchen twine at ½-inch intervals to keep the roulade’s shape while it cooks. Brush the outside with melted butter and roll the roulade in the chopped chervil.

Place the meat in baking dish, cover loosely with aluminum foil and place it in the oven for approximately 30 minutes, or until it reaches 150 degrees F. Remove it from the oven and let it rest for ten minutes before slicing and plating.

Service

Spoon some of the leftover rice in the center of each plate. Place 1-inch slices of roulade on top of the rice (with the filling facing up) and dress with the sauces, one on each side.

Wild Rice with Leeks and Portabello Mushrooms

Ingredients
2 cups wild grain rice cooked in beef broth
1 portabello mushroom, gills and stem removed, finely chopped
1/8 cup leek, whites only, finely chopped
1 tablespoon butter
freshly ground white pepper

Preparation
Heat butter in a small sauté pan. Add leeks and mushrooms and sauté until they release their aroma and juices, and the leeks are just beginning to turn clear. Season with a pepper to taste and add the mixture to the wild rice.

Creamy Leek Sauce

Ingredients
1/2 cup leeks, chopped and cooked until soft in 1/2 cup chicken broth
1/2 cup white wine
1 cup chicken broth
1 tablespoon butter
1/4 cup heavy cream

Preparation
Cook the leeks and process in a blender with leftover broth until smooth. (Be careful to let it cool slightly before blending to prevent an explosion of heat.) Strain mixture through a cheesecloth and set aside.

Place wine and chicken broth in a medium sauce pan. Using a very low flame, reduce the sauce to ¼ its volume, careful not to scorch the sauce. Add the butter and strained leek juice to the reduced mixture and remove from heat. Fold in the cream to prevent curdling.

Savory Chocolate Gravy

Ingredients
2 cups beef broth
2 cups red wine (we used Merlot here)
1/8 cup currants
4 kumquats, finely chopped
2 tablespoons unsweetened chocolate, grated
1 tablespoon butter

½ teaspoon butter
½ teaspoon flour

Preparation

Combine wine and beef broth in a medium sauce pan and reduce by ½. Add currants, kumquats, chocolate, and butter, whisking lightly to blend.

Blend the remaining butter and flour together and add into sauce for thickening. Cook several minutes to allow flour taste to cook off.

Recipe and photo by Kelly Cline

This dish is deceptively simple, and is a great technique for preparing duck breast with any kind of sauce. We think the port pairs so well with the richness of the duck, and who can resist a dish with figs? Serve over a disc of polenta pan-fried in a little hazelnut oil and a simple salad of mixed greens for an exquisite meal.

4 servings

Ingredients

4 6-8 ounce boneless duck breasts, skin intact (or 2 larger duck breasts, 8 ounces per person)
Sea salt and freshly ground white peppercorn, to taste

For the port demi-glace:
6 fresh figs, halved (or dried if out of season)
1 teaspoon of whole white peppercorns
½ teaspoon finely minced chervil (or parsley)
1 cup ruby port

Equipment

Stainless steel sauté pan

Preparation

Sear the duck breasts:
Score the skin of the duck breasts lightly in a diamond pattern, being careful not to cut all the way through to the flesh. Sprinkle generously with flakes of sea salt and a few grinds of white peppercorn on the skin side. Heat a large stainless steel sauté pan over medium-high heat until it’s very hot. Lay the duck breasts in the dry pan skin side down, searing until the skin is brown and crispy. When ready, the fat will begin to render from the duck and it will release itself from the pan. Turn the breasts over and sear on the other side until the breasts are cooked to your taste. For medium-rare, leave on the second side for 5-7 minutes. Remove them from the pan and set aside covered with tinfoil while preparing the sauce.

[Chef’s Note: Scoring the duck breasts allows the fat to render out and develop a crispy, caramelized skin. If the sauté pan is not large enough to comfortably fit all the duck breasts at once, use two sauté pans. The duck breasts should register 155-160° F on a meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the meat. Be sure to insert the thermometer between the skin and flesh so as not to pierce the skin. The duck will continue to cook while resting, so be careful not to overcook.]

Prepare the port demi-glace:
While the sauté pan is still hot, add the port, whole white peppercorns, and chervil or parsley to the rendered duck fat and deglaze the pan. Using a whisk, scrape the browned bits off the bottom of the pan, and continue to whisk until the mixture is reduced and emulsified. The sauce is ready when reduced to a glaze. Add the halved fresh figs and gently stir until heated through.

[Chef’s Note: if you are using dried figs, reconstitute them by adding them to the port before it begins to reduce.]

Service
Serve with a green salad and polenta fried in hazelnut oil. Place the polenta on the plate, and lay one duck breast over it, then sauce with the port glaze, adding one or two fig halves to each serving.
Recipe and photo by Kelly Cline

Roasted peppers are as much a part of summer for us as vine-ripened tomatoes. We love the sweet caramelization achieved by fire roasting these already sweet capsicum. By using the red peppers on the sandwich and the yellow peppers in a purée that becomes the sauce, we get a double dose of pepperiness that complements the chicken and keeps it moist. Rosemary is the final touch, giving this chicken a Mediterranean flair. See the variation for a canapé that will knock your socks off.

Makes 4 sandwiches or 24 hors d’oeuvres

Ingredients

4 yellow bell peppers
2 red bell peppers
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper, divided
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon olive oil
4 skinless boneless chicken breast halves
1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary, plus a couple of small sprigs for garnish
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
4 fresh ciabatta rolls, split and toasted

Equipment

Outdoor grill or cast iron grill pan
Blender or food processor

Preparation

Prepare the yellow pepper purée:
Using tongs, roast each yellow pepper over the open flame of a burner, rotating frequently until the skin is nicely charred and the flesh begins to soften. Place the peppers in a plastic bag and seal, allowing to steam for 10-15 minutes. The skin should come off easily by rubbing it with your fingers. Remove as much of the skin and charred bits as possible, and cut the flesh away from the seed pod and stem. Purée the yellow peppers in a blender or food processor with ½ teaspoon of cayenne pepper, then strain through a sieve into a bowl.

Prepare the roasted red pepper strips:
Using the same technique as for the yellow peppers, roast the red peppers over an open flame, steam them in a plastic bag, and remove the skins. Cut away the roasted flesh in large strips and set aside.

Prepare the grilled chicken salad:
In a small bowl whisk together the mustard, remaining ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper, and 2 teaspoons olive oil. Prepare a grill or heat a grill pan on the stove.

Season the chicken breasts with salt and pepper. Brush with the mustard mixture and grill for 4-5 minutes on each side, or until cooked through with nice grill marks. Cool, then dice the chicken into 1” chunks and toss with the chopped rosemary, parsley, salt and pepper to taste, and enough of the yellow pepper purée to coat.

Service

Split each ciabatta roll and toast lightly. Place one or two strips of roasted red pepper on each side, then fill with the chicken mixture. If desired, you may use additional yellow pepper purée on the sandwiches. Serve immediately, or wrap in plastic wrap for a picnic lunch.

[Chef’s Note: It is sometimes helpful to remove a bit of the inner soft bread (or mie in French) so that the sandwiches can have more filling. You may also add lettuce and tomato to the sandwich if desired.]

Variations

These same ingredients work well together for making these sandwiches into hors d’oeuvres. Simply toast thin slices of bread and rub with garlic to make crostini. Spread each slice with a little of the yellow pepper purée, top with a slice of roasted red pepper, then a slice of the grilled chicken, and garnish with a squeeze of the yellow pepper purée and a rosemary leaf.

Recipe and photo by Mark Tafoya

This is the rustic approach to ravioli or lasagna, and one that saves time while delivering the same magnificent taste.  Despite the lack of precision in its creation, it always appears lovely and inviting at service.  The Basil Sauce “Mignonette” with a garnish of fresh diced garden tomatoes makes this a gorgeous plate to serve as an appetizer, pasta or main course.

Makes about 1 1/4 cups filling

Ingredients

Basil Pasta Dough, rolled and cut through the width to make small sheets of dough
½ cup Parmesan cheese, grated
¼ cup Buffalo Mozzarella cheese, coarsely grated
¼ cup Danish Fontina cheese, shredded
¼ cup whole milk Ricotta cheese
3 cloves garlic, minced
Sea Salt
2 tablespoons fresh herbs, chopped (choose basil, chives, parsley, oregano, marjoram, thyme, or any combination)
Olive oil
Basil Sauce “Mignonette” (recipe below)
Fresh tomatoes, finely chopped, for garnish

Preparation

Prepare a large pot of salted water and bring to a boil over high heat.  Lightly oil a large cookie sheet.  Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F.

In a medium mixing bowl, combine the four cheeses and garlic.  Add the fresh herbs and gently stir to incorporate throughout.

Place the pasta dough rags into the boiling water and cook for about 3 to 5 minutes, or until the pasta is almost cooked through.  Drain.  Separate the “rags.”

Place half the rags on the prepared cookie sheet about a 1/2-inch apart.  Place a small mound of the prepared cheese mixture in the middle of each rag (about 1/4 of the size of the pasta rag).  Take the remaining rags and place one on top of each cheese mound, lightly pressing the rag down and around the mound.  Lightly coat or spray the top of each rag with olive oil and place in the oven.  Bake for about 12 to 15 minutes, or until the cheese begins to melt.

Service

Plate 3 filled pasta rags on a warmed dinner plate.  If the cheese is not oozing from in between the pasta sheets, slice through the pasta where the cheese mound is located to allow it to bubble through.  Lightly drizzle the Basil Sauce “Mignonette” over the pasta rags and garnish with fresh diced tomato.  Serve immediately.

Basil Sauce “Mignonette”
Often thought of as strictly an oyster “sauce,” Sauce Mignonette is a French mixture of freshly-ground pepper, shallots, and wine vinegar.  We used an aged balsamic for the Pasta Rags with Four Cheese Filling here, as the irrepressible combination of cheese, basil, and tomatoes is eloquently elevated to a gastronomic experience with the addition of aged balsamic in this sauce.

Makes a generous 1/2 cup

Ingredients

White, Green and Pink peppercorns, combined and coarsely ground to yield a scant 2 tablespoons
2 medium shallots, sliced paper-thin
1/2 cup aged balsamic vinegar (substitute high-quality white wine, white balsamic, or aged sherry vinegar)
¼ cup gently-packed basil leaves, chopped into a chiffonade

Preparation

Combine all the ingredients in a small glass bowl.  Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.  Can be prepared a full day in advance.  The flavors and aromatic quality of the sauce will develop over time, so allow at least a few hours for your sauce to cure.

Recipe and photo by Donna Marie Desfor

This recipe comes to us courtesy of our friend Chef Ming Tsai. Delicate Citrus Herbal Tea Rub and mild sautéed halibut were made for each other. Here, the fish is served with a refreshing salad of raw fennel, orzo, and orange segments. Of his tea rub, Ming writes: “I can never get enough of tea rubs, so I keep inventing new ones. This green tea and citrus example is particularly fresh and appealing: The tea is beautifully complemented by lemon, lime, and orange zest while mint and ginger add more invigorating flavor. This tea rub does wonders for lighter protein, like chicken and fish.

4 servings

Ingredients

½ cup Citrus Herbal Tea Rub (recipe below)
Four 6-ounce halibut fillets, skin off
2 cups blanched orzo pasta
3 oranges (2 segmented, 1 juiced)
Juice of 1 lemon
2 medium fenne bulb, top cut off, split in half, cored and sliced 1/8 inch thick
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil, plus more for garnish
Grapeseed or Canola oil to cook
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the Citrus Herbal Tea Rub (makes 4 cups):
1 cup green tea leaves
½ cup dried peppermint, spearmint or mint
1 cup lemongrass powder or flakes
2 tablespoons sea salt or kosher salt
2 tablespoons turbinado sugar or raw sugar
½ cup dried orange zest, crushed
½ cup dried lime zest
¼ cup dried lemon zest
¼ cup ground ginger

[Chef’s Note: To make dried zest, zest the fruit, spread the zests on a baking sheet and bake at 200° F until dried. (It takes about 2 hours.) The rub keeps for up to 3 weeks refrigerated in a tightly sealed container.]

Preparation

Prepare the Citrus Herbal Tea Rub:
In a small bowl, combine all of the ingredients. Set aside ½ cup for the recipe and store the remainder in a sealed container.

Prepare the halibut and orzo:
Place the tea rub on a plate and press both sides of the halibut in the rub. Heat a large saute pan over medium heat. Add oil and swirl to coat the pan. Add halibut and saute, turning once, until the halibut is cooked through, 4-5 minutes per side. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, combine the orzo, orange segments and juice, lemon juice, fennel and olive oil and toss to coat. Season with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. Divide the salad among 4 serving plates, top with the halibut, drizzle olive oil over, and serve.

Copyright © 2003 Ming Tsai. All rights reserved. Reprinted with permission. www.ming.com

Recipe and photo from the Simply Ming cookbook

Rich and flavorful gorgonzola cheese blended with finely minced herbs and nuts oozes out of pockets cut into thick, meaty sirloin steaks. The outer wrapping of prosciutto or pancetta adds a decadent layer of additional flavor. Although we prefer this pocket technique, you can easily place this filling on top of your steak just after cooking as a decadent topping.

2 servings

Ingredients

2 NY Strip or Sirloin Steaks, 1½ to 2-inches thick

For the gorgonzola stuffing:
6 large fresh sage leaves
6 large fresh basil leaves
2 sprigs oregano, leaves removed
2 cloves garlic
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons pine nuts
Freshly ground black pepper
½ cup gorgonzola cheese, crumbled
4 slices prosciutto or pancetta

Equipment

Heavy oven-safe cast-iron skillet.
Food processor

Preparation

Preheat oven to 425°F.

Place the sage, basil and oregano leaves, the garlic cloves and olive oil into a food processor, and pulse several times until finely minced. Add the pine nuts and pulse again until smooth. Add the black pepper and gorgonzola cheese, and process again for a few seconds until it reaches a smooth consistency. Set aside.

Trim the steaks of excess fat. Cut a slit through the middle of each steak, horizontally, about three-quarters of the way to the other side. Be careful not to cut all the way through the steaks. You want to create a pocket leaving the two sides and back of the steak intact.

Open the pocket of the steak and stuff with the gorgonzola filling. Do not overfill, as the gorgonzola will melt and ooze out of the steak. Wrap each steak with 2 pieces of prosciutto or pancetta, covering the opening to seal the gorgonzola in.

Heat the cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat until very hot. Brush the wrapped steaks with oil and place in the pan, searing each side for about 3 minutes. Carefully remove the skillet from the stove and place in the preheated oven to finish cooking the steaks to your desired doneness. Timing with vary depending upon the thickness of the steaks.

Remove the steaks from the oven, place on serving platter and cover with foil. Let the steaks rest for 5 minutes before serving.

Variations

The gorgonzola filling can be used as a topping for a variety of steaks, chops or even as a topping for baked potatoes. If using on steaks or chops, place a dollop of the filling on top of the meat just after cooking. The gorgonzola will melt delightfully over your steak as it rests before serving.

Recipe and photo by Lia Soscia

The sweet taste and flaky texture of sablefish are complemented by its poaching liquid: wonderfully fruity olive oil. Poached at an unusually low temperature, the flavors of this fish and its accompaniments meld together, creating a depth that is unattainable otherwise. This ensures slow, even cooking, as well as retained moisture and deeply imparted flavors. Poaching fish in olive oil adds yet another dimension: The lemon practically melts, while the crunch of the Spanish almonds is enhanced. Unpretentious and patient, this dish is a nod to the typically Spanish (and Gilded Fork) way of cooking.

4 servings

Ingredients

2½ pounds sablefish fillets, 1-inch thick (You may substitute any firm white fish. Use what’s freshest)
2 large lemons, thinly sliced crosswise
¼ cup fresh lemon thyme
½ cup Marcona almonds, roughly chopped
2 cups extra virgin olive oil
Sea salt to taste (about 3 teaspoons)
Freshly ground black pepper (about ½ teaspoon)

[Chef’s Note: Sablefish is also known as black cod. If you do not have Spanish Marcona almonds, feel free to use slivered almonds or to chop peeled almonds. In addition, we would suggest using a green, fruity olive oil for poaching, preferably a Spanish one with lemon undertones.]

Preparation

Preheat the oven to 250° F. Sprinkle the fish with the salt and pepper, allowing it to sit for a few minutes at room temperature. In one layer, place half of the lemon slices in an 8-inch glass baking dish. Sprinkle half of the thyme over the lemon. Arrange the fish in one layer on top of the lemon and thyme, and top with the remaining thyme, lemon and the chopped almonds. Pour the olive oil into the dish, carefully preventing the toppings from falling off the fish. Bake until the fish is cooked through and flaky, about 1 to 1¼ hours.

Service

When plating, lift the fillets out of the olive oil, leaving behind the bottom level of lemons but plating the fish with the top layer of lemons and the almonds. Spoon a few tablespoons of the poaching olive oil over the fish. We suggest serving this dish with simple rice pilaf or an herbed couscous.

Recipe by Sandra Di Capua
Photo by Mark Tafoya

This tenderloin is succulent and full of flavor. The aromatic qualities of the spice rub are an invitation to the senses to indulge.

Photo: Kelly Cline

I see the mastering of lesser cuts of meat as the mark of a true cook. Let’s face it: Anyone can serve a decent filet mignon — there isn’t a whole lot of cooking involved. Given both the skyrocketing prices of food and the deep-seated need for me to master those lesser cuts, I have set out to master the art of braising. All-Clad was kind enough to send me a 6-quart saute pan to test from their new Stainless with d5 collection, so it is my new plaything (initial thoughts at the end of the post). I do love a pan that can go directly from stove top to oven, as it makes the cooking and cleaning easier.

There is something inherently comforting about slow-cooked, caramelized beef, but it takes a bit of patience — not my strong suit. Nevertheless, I reminded myself ahead of time that such patience would result in a luscious dinner.

The last time I made beef-back ribs I used an ale and finished them on the stove top, and used a small soup pot. This time I decided to go with a lager and finish them in the oven in the All-Clad pan. In this case I used Foster’s, as it was the only beer I could find in a single serving, and one can does the whole batch.

The beauty of these ribs is that they are mighty cheap. I bought two packs (about 12 ribs) for a total of $3.00. These are not to be confused with short ribs, which have the meat on top of the bones. These have the meat in between the bones, and are much cheaper. Now, I might be braising these slightly differently from the way others do, but I look at recipes as a guide. Feel free to adapt, add different flavors, or whatever you like.

Step 1: Caramelize the ribs.
This is the most critical part of the whole process, so don’t rush it. You want to really get some caramelization on these ribs before they are submerged in liquid, because it’s a major part of your flavor component. It will take about 20 minutes. Lightly coat the ribs with Kosher salt and a bit of pepper, get your pan really hot, add some olive oil, heat until it shimmers, and place your short ribs in the pan. Leave them alone.

While that’s happening, pre-heat your oven to 375 F. Resist the urge to move the meat around too much — let the magic happen.

Step 2: Add onions & garlic.
You can also add carrots here, but I forgot to grab one at the supermarket. It happens. Reduce your heat and add the onions and garlic. You may want to wait until the last few minutes to add the garlic because if it burns it will ruin the whole dish. I probably should have been a bit more patient here with the onions, but I added the garlic simultaneously and didn’t want to burn it. (This photo is before the onions had done their delicious sweating.)

Note: Some recipes call for removing the ribs, draining the fat from the pan, and starting with fresh oil to sweat the onions, garlic and other vegetables. I disagree, because in this case there wasn’t too much fat left, and I wanted the flavor.

Step 3: Add braising liquid, herbs & spices.
I added a giant can of Foster’s, some of the rosemary water I made the other day (not just for hair!), some ground coriander and a hint of Chinese five spice. (Add whatever spices tickle your fancy. For whatever reason, my mental mouth liked these.) Stir the liquid and scrape the bottom of the pan to loosen all the yummy bits. These are also important for flavor.

Step 4: Cover and place in a 375 F oven.
Now go away. For about 3 hours. You can check on the liquid periodically (I do so about every 30 minutes), but let the meat do its thing.

When the ribs are finished, the liquid will have reduced considerably, and the meat will be falling off the bone. You shouldn’t need a knife to cut it apart. Note: This is when you should check the salt flavor in the dish. I tend to go easy on the salt in the beginning, because as the juice reduces the flavors become intensified, and too much salt will ruin it.

Step 5: Serve over something starchy and delicious.
Some people serve these with potatoes or rice, but I am a huge fan of egg noodles. I like the way they slide over my tongue and slither down my throat. Once I remove the bones and there is nothing but meaty goodness, I like to slather this over a pile of noodles and lose myself in silky, meaty goodness.

Verdict on the All-Clad Stainless with d5 saute pan:

My sentiments about cookware and sports cars are the same: I want sleek design and superior performance. This pan did not disappoint. All-Clad has incorporated some really smart design elements into this collection, including little touches that make for easier logistics, such as lid handles that can accommodate hands wearing oven mitts, cool handles on the pan should you forget said oven mitt (I have done so) and a pouring rim all the way around the edge. The pan is also quite light despite its enormous 6-qt. size.

Most important for me, however, is the even cooking across the surface of the pan. I had ribs inside and outside, and expected to have to move them around so the inner ones wouldn’t burn, but caramelization transpired in harmony for all the ribs. Glee.

Cleanup with this pan was also effortless, even with caramelized gooey goodness all over the pan and lid. I will be experimenting much more with this pan, so I’ll share further thoughts as they occur.

When my friend Paul started talking about this pizza he prepared, I believe I may have dribbled on my shirt. I’m unsure because I was caught up in the rapture of my mental mouth at that moment. This combination of flavors is veritably sex on a plate.

This recipe has a lot of steps, but it is the perfect way to spend a snowy or chilly afternoon.

Serves 4

Ingredients

Recipes below for all of the following:
Pizza dough
Garlic olive oil
Roasted cherry tomatoes
Sauteed vegetables
Sauteed shrimp

1/2 lb lumb crab meat , picked through and drained if packed in water
2 c mozzarella cheese
1/2 cup parmesan cheese, finely grated

Special equipment

15” round pizza stone

Preparation

For the pizza dough:
1 cup lukewarm water
2 1/4 teaspoons active yeast
1 teaspoon sugar
2 1/2 cups white unbleached flour (don’t use whole wheat for this pizza)
3/4 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons garlic olive oil

Proof yeast in water and sugar. Add remaining ingredients, stir with a fork and incorporate into a ball. Knead a couple times on floured surface (don’t over mix, as this is not a bread dough). Place in greased bowl, covered in warm place to rise until doubled, about 30-45 minutes.

For the garlic olive oil:
2 – 3 cups olive oil
1 head garlic peeled and sliced
Place garlic into oil and simmer under med heat until the garlic starts to brown, about 20-30 minutes. Note: The garlic will boil and begin to settle before it starts to brown if at medium heat. Set aside and let cool. If the garlic continues to brown, remove it with a slotted spoon and set aside. Otherwise remove the garlic when oil is cool, and store oil in an air-tight container.

For the roasted tomatoes:
12 oz cherry tomatoes
1 tablespoon white balsamic vinegar
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
1 tablespoon garlic olive oil

Pre-heat the oven to 450 F.

Halve tomatoes and squeeze/scoop out seeds and pulp. Place on baking sheet, drizzle with garlic olive oil, vinegar, salt and pepper. Roast 20-30 minutes until beginning to caramelize. Remove and cool on baking sheet.

For the sauteed vegetables:
8 oz mushrooms, sliced
8 oz asparagus, cut into 1/2-inch lengths
1 tablespoon garlic olive oil
2 tablespoon sherry
1/2 teaspoon thyme, dried

Heat the olive oil in a large saute pan until shimmering. Saute mushrooms until water is released and evaporated. Add sherry, thyme, salt and pepper, and cook until most of the liquid is absorbed. Add asparagus and cook for 2 minutes (keep asparagus under-cooked). Remove from heat and set aside. Add roasted tomatoes and stir. Drain on paper towels if there is any excess liquid.

For the shrimp:
1/2 lb shrimp, cleaned and deveined (cut up if large)
1/2 teaspoon salt
Pinch of pepper
1 tablespoon garlic olive oil
1 teaspoon Sriracha hot sauce (the one with the rooster — do NOT substitute)

Heat olive oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add ingredients and saute shrimp until almost cooked (it will finish cooking in the oven). Drain on paper towels.

For the white sauce:
2 tablespoons garlic olive oil
1/4 cup unbleached flour
1 cup milk (2% or higher)
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper

Heat olive oil in a small sauce pan over medium-high heat for 2 minutes. Add flour and whisk 1-2 minutes until the flour has mixed in and cooked to remove the raw taste. Add milk, increase heat slightly and whisk until thickened. Add salt and pepper, cover and set aside. Note: You may need to re-heat the sauce a bit before adding to the pizza.

Assemble the pizza:
Spread pizza dough onto the cold pizza stone, drizzle with garlic olive oil and bake for 8 minutes. Remove the dough from the oven, spread white sauce over the dough and top with veggie mixture. Sprinkle the crab and shrimp over the top. Cover with mozzarella and parmesan cheeses. Bake 15-20 minutes more until cheeses begin to brown.

Devour.

Recipe and photo by Paul Adair. All rights reserved.

Meatballs are so much more than food to me. They embody a big piece of my childhood, and dear loved ones whose memory I’m able to keep alive each time I make them. The moment preparation begins, I’m instantly transported to happy memories, and one ritual in particular.

My late brother Bob was an incredible cook, particularly when it came to Italian food. He spent so much time at the stove, his proclivities earned him the nickname “Meatball.” I spent many a Saturday or Sunday watching him at the stove, carefully rolling out each meatball, then rolling each again before it went into the oil. The smell would fill the house, beckoning me like a wanton lover.

When meatballs were on the menu I was never far away; this was a necessity, as I had to strike at the perfect moment. You might say I have a “thing” for meatballs, but with seven kids in the family, rations were pretty strict. I also like my meatballs without sauce, so if I wanted to sneak one, I had to do it between the time they came out of the frying pan and went into the pot of sauce. The moment my brother turned his back I would spring, grabbing a scorching hot meatball and running for the bathroom, where I would lock myself in and blow on the meatball to cool it and savor each second of its ambrosia-like qualities. Sometimes I was too hasty, and spent the next couple of days with a burnt tongue.

The batch I made today brought me to what I’m calling Meatball Nirvana. The texture and flavor were PERFECTION. Since many people have requested the recipe over the years, I thought it was time to share.

This recipe comes from my Gramma Crucciti (dad’s mother), and there are two important secrets: (1) you must use stale bread; and (2) you must not be squeamish. The only way to ensure the meatballs taste good is to sample the raw mix before it goes into the frying pan. You only need a little pinch to taste. The rest is easy, but a lot of the measuring needs to be done on-the-fly, as your taste preferences may differ from mine. Play with the recipe until you get the flavors where you want them.

Actually, there is a third secret: These must be made with love, and so much of it, it fills the kitchen. It improves the taste ten-fold.

Ingredients

2 lbs chopped meat (no more than 80% lean — embrace the fat, it tastes good)
Equal amount of stale Italian bread (approximately 1 1/2 large loaves for 2 lbs meat)
1 egg
1-2 cups Pecorino Romano cheese, finely grated, to taste
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped or pressed
1 Tbsp parsley, finely chopped
Salt, to taste

Vegetable oil for cooking

Preparation

Prepare the bread:
Soak the stale bread in a large bowl of water until the bread is completely soft. Break the bread apart in large chunks, removing the crust. Squeeze each chunk with your hands to get as much of the water out as possible and set aside on a plate.

[Chef's Notes: It is important that you have a 1:1 ratio of bread to chopped meat to achieve the proper texture. Please do not substitute bread crumbs for the squeezed bread, as you will get nowhere near the same results.]

Prepare the meatball mix:
Add the bread to the chopped meat and mix together by hand, squeezing to ensure an even distribution of bread throughout. Add 1 cup of the Pecorino Romano, then the remaining ingredients and mix my hand. Taste a pinch of the mixture to see if the flavors are to your taste. Add more cheese if necessary.

Roll the meatballs:
Using a spoon or your fingers, take a scoop of the mixture and roll it between your palms to form the meatball. (The size is entirely up to you, but a soup spoon usually makes a good guide.) Place the raw meatballs on a large platter in a single layer.

Fry the meatballs:
Half-fill a large saute or cast-iron pan with vegetable oil. Heat under high heat until the oil shimmers. Carefully add the meatballs, re-rolling them if they have fallen out of shape. Fry until a solid brown crust has formed on the bottom half of the meatballs, about 4 minutes, then flip over with a metal slotted spoon. Cook for another 4 minutes. (You can remove one and cut it in half at this point to make sure it’s fully cooked.) Remove to a plate or bowl lined with paper towels to drain the grease.

[Chef's Notes: You can also use a deep-fryer to make these, but you must be careful to load the basket in a single layer at a time or the meatballs will stick together.

You might be inclined to use olive oil for cooking the meatballs, but I don't recommend it. It imparts an additional layer of flavor that is not necessarily ideal, and doesn't play well at high temperatures.]

If you’ve made a pot of sauce (I’ll save that for another recipe), add the meatballs to the sauce and mangia!

Gumbo is a traditional dish served in the South. There are many variations of the dish, but this one uses dark meat turkey instead of the traditional sausage and shrimp. To spice it up, we’ve added andouille sausage to accompany the standard okra, onion, celery and green pepper. This is an easy and delicious one-pot meal, and great way to take advantage of your leftover Thanksgiving turkey.

6 servings

Ingredients

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 cup onion, chopped
1 cup celery, chopped
1 cup green bell pepper, chopped
4 cloves garlic, minced
¼ cup water
1 (14.5 ounce) can stewed tomatoes (with juices)
1 (10.5 ounce) can chicken stock
2 bay leaves
½ lb dried andouille sausage, sliced into ¼-inch pieces
2 cups cooked dark meat turkey, diced
1 (10-ounce) package frozen okra, thawed
1 tablespoon Cajun seasoning
3 cups hot cooked rice

Equipment

Large Dutch oven

Preparation

Prepare the browned flour:
Place the flour in the Dutch oven and cook over medium-high heat for about 7, minutes or until the flour is very brown. Stir constantly with a wire whisk to keep the flour from sticking to the bottom. When the flour is completely browned, remove from the Dutch oven and set aside.

[Chef’s Note: The browning of the flour takes patience but is an important step in achieving the gumbo’s classic rich flavor].

Prepare the gumbo:
Heat the oil in the Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add the onion, celery, green bell pepper and garlic. Sauté for about 8 minutes or until the onion is translucent. Sprinkle the vegetables with the browned flour and cook for another minute, stirring constantly. Add the water, the tomatoes and their juice, the chicken stock and bay leaves. Bring the gumbo to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer, uncovered, for 10 minutes. Add the andouille sausage and simmer, uncovered for 5 minutes. Add the cooked turkey, okra and Cajun spice seasoning and cook for another few minutes.

[Chef’s Note: Andouille sausage is a spicy, smoked Cajun pork sausage. There are two varieties: fresh and dried. This recipe calls for the dried version, which is typically found near the gourmet cheese and deli meat area of your grocery store. If you can only find the fresh sausage, you will need to precook it in a separate skillet before adding it to the gumbo.]

Service

Serve the turkey gumbo over fluffy white rice.

Variations

If dark turkey meat is not readily available, turkey breast meat or chicken are both adequate substitutes. Traditional gumbo also contains about ½ lb of medium-sized, peeled, deveined shrimp. If you choose to include the shrimp in your recipe, add them in at the very end with the turkey and okra. Cook them just until they turn pink.
Recipe and photo by Lia Soscia

There are as many ways to roast a turkey as there are grandmothers to teach us their cooking secrets. Everyone seems to have their favorite method for turkey, and while we do not zealously advocate one over another, we are partial to the high-heat roasting method, which produces a crisp and brown exterior without cooking the bird so long it dries out. To ensure a moist bird, buy a kosher turkey, which has been salted to draw out the blood. Otherwise, use a brining technique to ensure a moist bird. Below is one of our favorite brine mixes, which you can use for any kind of meat.

Fruit and Spice Brine Mix

Ingredients

For the fruit and spice brining mix (makes about 3 cups):
1 cup sea salt
¾ cup sugar
3 or 4 star anise
1 tablespoon whole black or pink peppercorns
6-8 cardamom pods
1 tablespoon dried orange peel
1 tablespoon dried lemon peel
2 tablespoons dried rosemary

8 cups water
8 cups apple cider or water

Combine all dry ingredients and mix well. This brine mix will keep indefinitely in a plastic bag. To brine a 15 lb. turkey, use the whole recipe above. Add the brine mixture to 8 cups water in a large pot and bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve completely. Remove from the heat and allow to cool completely. It should be cold before you immerse the turkey.

In a tub or bucket large enough to hold your turkey and copious amounts of liquid, combine the brine solution with 8 cups of water or apple cider. Carefully submerge the turkey in the brining solution, making sure not to spillover. (Chef Mark has learned the hard way that large birds displace a lot of liquid).

Cover and refrigerate for 6-12 hours, turning the turkey halfway through the brining time.

Before roasting the bird, remove it from the solution and rinse it thoroughly with cold water. A chef friend of ours says “I don’t mean a little spritz! Wash that bird thoroughly for a couple of minutes and pat dry thoroughly with paper towels.”

[Chef’s Note: For brining smaller amounts of meat, up to 5 lbs., use only ¾ cup of the dry mix and reduce the proportions of water and apple cider by half. If you’re short on time, you can make a very simple brine with just salt, sugar and water. The salt opens the pores of the bird and allows the moisture to be drawn in. The sugar is hydrophilic and helps to keep the moisture in the bird.]

High-Heat Roasting Method

Ingredients

1 turkey, 8-12 lbs.
Salt (if not using the brining method above)
4-5 tablespoons melted unsalted butter (or compound butter – see variations below)
1 large onion, roughly chopped
1 orange, cut into wedges

[Chef’s Note: This method is great for achieving a nicely browned bird with a crisp skin and moist breast meat. You should use a relatively small bird, since it requires flipping the bird. Well, you know what we mean…

As much as we love stuffing, we generally don’t cook the stuffing inside the bird. In addition to the food safety concerns, it’s just too much trouble for us. We prefer to stuff the cavity with onions and orange wedges, which help to keep in moisture and flavor.]

Equipment

Heavy-bottomed non-stick roasting pan

Preparation

Place a rack on the lowest level of the oven and preheat the oven to 425° F. Thoroughly dry the turkey with paper towels, and if you haven’t brined it, or you’re not using a kosher turkey, generously rub the body and interior cavities with salt, then brush with the melted butter. Place the chopped onions and orange wedges inside the cavity.

Place the turkey on one side, with the drumstick sticking up. If necessary, use onions or balls of aluminum foil to help keep the bird on its side. Roast it at 425° for 30 minutes, then remove and carefully turn on its other side. You can use bunched up paper towels to help you grasp the hot bird, and keep your potholders clean.

Baste the newly exposed side with the butter and pan drippings, then return to the oven and roast for 30 minutes more. Repeat this process so that the bird roasts on each side twice, for a total of 2 hours. Turn the bird with the breast facing up and baste once more, roasting until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh reaches 165° F.

[Chef’s Note: Food safety requires that the bird reach 165° F for a couple of minutes to be sure that any harmful bacteria is killed, but if you leave the turkey in the oven until it reaches this point, the carryover cooking time may take it well above this temperature, and dry out the breast meat. You can remove the bird when it has reached 155-160° F.

Important note! The pop-up timers that come with most turkeys will cook the meat to oblivion to ensure no one is going to file a lawsuit for an undercooked bird, resulting in cardboard-flavored turkey. Trust your instant-read thermometer above all!]

Remove the turkey from the oven, loosely tent with foil, and allow to rest for 20-30 minutes before carving. You can prepare your favorite gravy with the pan drippings.

Variations

Sage Butter

1 stick of unsalted butter, softened
2 tablespoons fresh sage leaves, finely minced

Finely mince the fresh sage leaves and combine with the softened butter until thoroughly combined. Lay a sheet of cling wrap on the counter, and scrape out the sage butter onto it. Wrapping the cling wrap around the butter mixture, gently shape it into a log shape. Twist the ends of the cling wrap in opposite directions to enclose the log like a sausage. Place in the refrigerator until service to firm up.

[Chef’s Note: You may double or triple this recipe, and store the compound butter wrapped in plastic in the fridge or freezer for anytime you may want a tasty, buttery topping. You may also experiment with other variations, such as rosemary, thyme, or other herbs, or even blend the butter with blue cheese for another great steak topping.]

You can use any fresh herbs, alone or in combination, mixed into a compound butter, and rubbed over the skin, or even placed underneath the skin before roasting. As you know, we are also partial to truffles, and if your budget allows, you can go all out and make a turkey “in mourning” by placing a veil of sliced black truffles underneath the skin. See how we did it with hens for this recipe.

Recipes by Mark Tafoya

These luscious ravioli combine the delicate flavors of lobster and shiitake mushrooms with the decadence of vanilla and white wine. Made with wonton wrappers instead of fresh pasta dough, they are as easy as they are delicious. And although they may seem like they are only meant for special occasions, you’ll want to enjoy them any day of the year.

Makes about 5 servings

Ingredients

For the lobster shitake filling:
3 small cooked lobsters, meat removed
3/4 lb shiitake mushrooms thinly sliced
4 teaspoons butter
2 shallots, chopped
½ cup crème fraîche
Salt and black pepper to taste
2 teaspoons chopped chives
1 package round wonton wrappers

For the vanilla butter sauce:
2 tablespoons butter plus 1 cup diced chilled butter
3 shallots, diced
1 cup dry white wine
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
Salt and pepper to taste
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise

Preparation

Prepare the filling:
Dice the lobster meat rather finely. Melt 4 teaspoons butter in a large saucepan. Sweat the shallots over medium heat until translucent. Add the mushrooms and cook over high heat until lightly browned, about 7 minutes. Mix in the crème fraiche, salt and pepper to taste, and allow the mixture to simmer for a few minutes or until slightly reduced. Stir in the cooked lobster meat and set aside.

Prepare the sauce:
Melt 2 tablespoons of butter in a small saucepan. Add the shallots and cook on medium-high heat until the shallots are translucent. Add the white wine and scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean into the sauce and whisk until evenly distributed. Allow to simmer until the mixture reduces to about 3 tablespoons. Remove the sauce from the heat and add the vanilla extract and the remaining chilled butter, whisking until it is melted and the sauce thickens. Strain the sauce into a clean container, applying pressure to it so that the vanilla and shallots go through. Keep warm until service.

Prepare the ravioli:
Lay one wonton wrapper down flat. Place one tablespoon of the lobster and mushroom filling in the center, and brush the edges with water. Place another wrapper on top to cover, and seal with your fingers. Press down on all of the edges, being sure to get any air out from inside the ravioli.

[Chef’s Note: You may be tempted to overfill these ravioli, but when working with filled pasta or wonton wrappers (or even empanadas or turnovers, for that matter), it is best to use less filing than you think necessary, to avoid them splitting open when cooked. The key here is to squeeze any extra air out of the ravioli before sealing the edges.]

Bring a stockpot of salted water to a boil. When the water reaches a rolling boil, drop in the lobster ravioli and cook until they begin to float, about 4 minutes. Remove the cooked ravioli from the surface with a slotted spoon, carefully draining away any water pooled on the surface.

Service

Place 3 ravioli on each plate, spoon a few teaspoons of the vanilla butter sauce over the ravioli, and garnish with finely chopped chives. Serve immediately.

Recipe by Sandra Di Capua
Photo by Mark Tafoya

CMN Video: Indonesian Cooking – Pepes Ikan dan Udang

Chef Mark’s Indonesian Adventure concludes with a trip to the Wayan Cooking School in Bali, where Chef Mark learns how to make Pepes Ikan dan Udang, or fish and shrimp steamed in a banana leaf. The most aromatic blend of spices makes this dish amazing! (And yes, that is prodigious perspiration on Chef Mark’s shirt! It was HOT!)

A production of The Culinary Media Network. www.culinarymedianetwork.com

See Chef Mark’s Entire Adventure here:

Lamb is both the symbolic and literal food of springtime, and this simple preparation is both hearty and light, reminding us of the comforting warmth of winter, but leading us forward into the promise of warmer months ahead.  The balsamic reduction can be used in many other recipes, and we always hold roasted garlic in high esteem!

4 servings

Ingredients

For the rack of lamb:
2 large racks of lamb, frenched
Extra virgin olive oil
1½ teaspoons kosher salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 cup loosely packed fresh parsley leaves
1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary
1 teaspoon herbes de Provence
3 garlic cloves, finely minced
1 cup fresh white bread crumbs
2 teaspoons grated lemon zest
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
½ cup balsamic vinegar

[Chef’s Note: Frenched racks of lamb have had the fat and skin removed from the bones, making for a cleaner presentation. You can have your butcher do this for you.

Herbes de Provence are a mixture of spices typically used in French cooking, and they are available in most supermarkets.]

For the garlic smashed potatoes:
2 heads of garlic, with top ¼-inch sliced off
1 teaspoon olive oil
3 Idaho potatoes, peeled and diced
3 tablespoons butter
¼ to ½ cup heavy cream

Preparation

Roast the garlic:
Preheat the oven to 375° F. Place the heads of garlic on a sheet of aluminum foil. Drizzle with 1 teaspoon olive oil. Close foil over garlic and roast until tender, about 1 hour. Cool slightly. Squeeze garlic from the skins into a small bowl and mash with a fork. Set aside. Increase the oven temperature to 450° F.

Prepare the balsamic reduction:
Place ½ cup of balsamic vinegar in a small heavy-bottomed saucepan. Bring to a low boil over medium-high heat, then reduce heat and simmer until reduced to a syrup. Be careful not to burn the syrup. You should have about 1/8 cup. Cool and transfer to a squeeze bottle.

Roast the racks of lamb:
Place the racks in a roasting pan, fat side up. Rub the tops with olive oil and sprinkle with kosher salt and pepper. Roast the lamb for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, place the parsley and fresh garlic cloves in the bowl of a food processor and pulse until they are both finely minced. Add the rosemary, herbes de Provence, bread crumbs and lemon zest and pulse for another second or two until combined.

Remove the lamb from the oven and press the herbed bread crumb mixture into the meat. Drizzle with the melted butter and return immediately to the oven and roast for another 15 minutes, or until the internal temperature reaches 145° F for medium rare.

Remove the lamb racks from the oven, cover with aluminum foil and allow to rest for 15 minutes. Meanwhile prepare the potatoes.

Prepare the garlic smashed potatoes:
Put potatoes in a pot of salted cold water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until fork tender, about 12 to 15 minutes. Remove the pan from heat and drain potatoes. Put the potatoes back into the pot and return to heat. Cook for 1 or 2 more minutes, stirring constantly to dehydrate potatoes. Remove from the heat and add butter and roasted garlic. Use a hand-held masher to mash potatoes to desired consistency. Add cream until the potatoes reach the desired consistency. Season with kosher salt and freshly ground pepper.

[Chef’s Note: When boiling potatoes or any other root vegetables, it is important to start with cold water, and then bring to a boil. The opposite is true when boiling vegetables which grow above the ground.]

Service

Mound some of the garlic smashed potatoes in the center of the serving plate. Carefully cut the lamb into double chops using a serrated knife, being careful not to knock off the herb crust. Place 2 or 3 chops per serving around the potatoes with the bones crossing at the top. Squeeze out small drops of balsamic reduction around the plate, or drizzle directly over the chops, as desired.

Recipe by Mark Tafoya
Photo by Ken & Aniko Pasternak

This simple preparation can be used to roast any bird, but is especially good for wild game birds, as it showcases and gently accents their natural flavors.  If you are going to use this glaze for turkey, we recommend doubling the amounts for the glaze so you have plenty for basting. Serve with Brussels sprouts, sautéed cabbage, sauerkraut or a potato and mushroom gratin.

Serves 4-8 depending on the size of the birds

Ingredients

4 squab or cornish game hens, about 1 lb. each (see Chef’s Note)
4 cups freshly pressed apple juice or cider
1 teaspoon freshly ground cinnamon
1 lemon
3 teaspoons cornstarch

Preparation

Place apple juice or cider in a small saucepan and reduce to about 3 cups to concentrate the flavor.  Remove giblets from cavities and clean each bird well. Dry birds, and place in a roasting pan just large enough to contain them without crowding.  Pour half of the apple juice reduction over the hens. Bake uncovered at 350° F for 45 minutes.

Make a slurry with the cornstarch and 2 tablespoons of the apple juice reduction.  Place a small pan over medium heat, and combine the remaining apple juice reduction and cinnamon; mix well. Add 4 lemon slices and the slurry, and whisk well until thickened. Remove from heat.

Remove birds from the oven after 45 minutes and baste them with some of the thickened sauce. Return to the oven and continue to bake for an additional 15 minutes, or until skin is crisped and browned and the juices run clear. Garnish with the remaining lemon slices and serve with remaining apple glaze.

You may also make a pan gravy with the juices, but the Apple-Cinnamon Glaze imparts a sweet and clean flavor to the birds.

[Chef’s Note:  Frozen, packaged Cornish Hens are readily available in supermarkets, or freshly killed in specialty butcher shops.  Squab is less common, but can be ordered from your butcher, and is superior in flavor to other birds.  A 1-lb. squab can serve two people, as it is much richer than hen.  If you like, you can split the birds down the middle before roasting.

If you are using this glaze to roast turkey, be sure to double the quantities of ingredients for the glaze.]

Recipe by Mark Tafoya
Photo by Jeff Goulding, Times-Herald Record