Mole is one of the most enigmatic and interesting foods on earth. In Mexico , its preparation and final result depends on the diversity of ingredients used from city to city, and perhaps most importantly, on the personal preferences of the cooks. It is a very personal, unique dish that with the help of your imagination and personal touch, will reach new dimensions in your kitchen.

Serves 6-8

Ingredients

2 medium dried ancho chiles, stemmed, seeded, and membranes removed
2 dried mulato or pasilla chiles, stemmed, seeded, and membranes removed
2 chipotle chiles in adobo sauce (canned), seeded
4 cups chicken or beef broth, divided
5 tablespoons olive oil, divided
1 large ripe dark-skinned plantain, peeled and thickly sliced
½ medium onion, chopped
8 oz. (3-4) ripe plum tomatoes
2 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
3/4 cup dry-roasted, unsalted cashews
¼ cup whole almonds
¼ cup raisins
1 tablespoon sesame seeds
1 tablespoon roasted peanuts
1 1-inch slice from a firm French bread or Mexican bolillo, torn into pieces
½ teaspoon Mexican canela (cinnamon), ground
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon dried oregano
½ cup dry sherry ( jerez )
4 oz. Mexican chocolate, chopped
1 teaspoon salt, or to taste (depending on how salty the broth is)
freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Preparation

Heat an ungreased medium skillet over medium-high heat and toast all the dried chiles until they begin to change color (about 15 seconds each side). Be careful not to burn them, as that will add a bitter taste to the mole. Using tongs, transfer chiles to a large pot and add 2 cups of chicken or beef broth, bring to boil, then reduce heat and simmer uncovered for 25 minutes until chiles are very soft, stirring occasionally  to ensure even soaking. Strain liquid and reserve. Chop chiles.

Place 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a heavy, medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the ripe plantain pieces and sauté until golden brown, about 3 minutes.  Using slotted spoon, transfer to paper towels to remove the excess of oil. Add the onion, garlic cloves, tomatoes and fry, stirring regularly until they are well browned, no more than 10 minutes. Scrape the mixture into a blender or food processor along with the cooked plantains, cashews, almonds, raisins, sesame seeds, peanuts, bread, drained chipotles and other chiles, cinnamon, cumin seeds, and dried oregano. Add 2 cups of the broth (you could use the reserved liquid from rehydrating the chiles) and blend until smooth. Remember to stir and scrape down the sides of mixture, adding extra broth if needed to keep everything moving and ensure a smooth mixture. Press the mixture through a sieve into a bowl.

Heat the remaining 3 tablespoons of olive oil in the saucepan over high heat. When you see smoke rising from the saucepan, add the chile mixture all at once. Reduce heat and simmer, stirring constantly for 5 minutes, then add the chocolate, dry sherry and reserved 2 cups of chicken or beef broth to the mole. Simmer over low heat, partially covering the pot,  for 40 minutes, stirring regularly to integrate all the flavors. You can thin the molé with additional broth to keep it the consistency of a creamy soup. Adjust seasonings and serve warm with roasted chicken, cashews, and steamed rice.

[Chef’s Note: This is a very time consuming dish to make, but the results are definitely worth the effort…right up to the last bite. Start three days ahead. Although traditionally in Mexico the molé is served with turkey, the chosen protein is really not that important because the star is the molé itself. Serve it with any kind of meat: chicken, turkey, beef, pork, shrimp, or just plain with steamed white rice. This mole will keep well in a tightly covered container in the refrigerator for up to 5 days, or frozen for up to a month. If you choose to freeze the leftover mole, thaw it in the refrigerator and then heat in a saucepan or microwave oven, adding some chicken broth if needed.]

Recipe and photo by Melissa DeLeon Douglass

White chocolate, lemon, raspberries… these are sexy foods. This dessert is simple in construction, comprising merely a lemon cream, white chocolate, sweet lemons and fresh raspberries, but its taste is anything but. This napoleon presents sensuous textures with everyday flavors; a sublimely silky cream contrasts perfectly with crisp white chocolate. Tart and tangy paired with sweet and creamy makes for a bright and utterly refreshing dessert.

6 servings

Ingredients

For the white chocolate layers:
1 pound white chocolate, tempered

For the lemon cream:
1 teaspoon unflavored granulated gelatin
2 tablespoons cold water
½ cup sugar
2 eggs
1 egg yolk
1/3 cup fresh lemon juice (from about 4 large lemons)
Zest of 2 lemons
¼ cup (½ stick) unsalted butter, room temperature
A pinch of salt
½ cup heavy cream, whipped to medium peaks

For the poached lemon slices:
1 cup water
1 cup sugar
2 small lemons, sliced very thinly

For the candied lemon confit:
1 cup water
1 ½ cups sugar, divided
1 lemon

Fresh raspberries

Equipment

2 flat baking sheets
At least 2 sheets of clear acetate
Chocolate thermometer
Electric or handheld mixer
Fine mesh sieve
Mandolin or sharp straight-edge knife
Pastry Bag
Round pastry tip
Rubber spatula
Ruler
Sharp paring knife
Whisk
Vegetable peeler

Preparation

Prepare the white chocolate layers:
Using a large offset spatula, spread the tempered white chocolate very thinly on a plastic accetate sheet over the back of a flat baking pan. Complete this procedure at least 2 times, using separate pans and acetate each time. When the chocolate has set (this should take only about 2-3 minutes), use a sharp paring knife and a straight-edge ruler to cut the chocolate into at least 24 2×3-inch rectangles (we recommend cutting extra in case of breakage). Set the pan in the refrigerator and allow the chocolate to set for at least four hours before using. Unmold the rectangles before using.

[Chef’s Note: To temper white chocolate, first chop the chocolate into small pieces. Place about 2/3 of the chocolate in a mixing bowl. Slowly microwave the chocolate in 30 second intervals to melt it, stirring with a rubber spatula after each interval so it melts evenly. Once the chocolate has completely melted, continue to microwave until it reaches a temperature of 115 to 118° F; when the chocolate is ready it feels warmer than your body and hot to the touch. Remove the bowl from the microwave and stir the chocolate slowly and constantly, continually adding the reserved unmelted chocolate until it cools to 78 or 79° F. It should be thick, smooth and glossy in texture. Once at the correct temperature, slowly microwave again, this time in 5-7 second intervals, stirring between, until is warmed to 86 to 88° F. Be very careful, because the chocolate warms very quickly. Do not let the chocolate get too warm or it will go out of temper.

You will not need all of the tempered white chocolate, but it is always best to temper chocolate in amounts no smaller than 1 pound. When finished, just spread the extra onto a sheet of parchment paper, let set and then break up and store with the rest of your chocolate for another use.]

Prepare the lemon cream:
Dissolve the gelatin in the cold water.

Prepare a water bath by putting a saucepan of water over heat to simmer. Combine the sugar, eggs and egg yolk, lemon juice, lemon zest and salt in a metal bowl and place over the simmering water, making sure the bottom of the bowl does not touch the water. Cook the mixture over the water bath, whisking constantly until it thickens, becomes very creamy, and your whisk leaves a ribbon in the cream; this may take up to 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and whisk in the gelatin and butter until completely smooth. Using a fine mesh sieve, strain the cream into a clean bowl or container. Cover with a layer of plastic wrap directly on the surface and let cool at least 1 hour or for up to 2 days.

Once cooled to at least room temperature, fold in the whipped cream. Place the lightened cream into a pastry bag fitted with a medium round tip. Set aside in the refrigerator until ready for use.

Prepare the lemon slices:
Combine the water and sugar and bring to a boil. Add the lemon slices and return to a quick boil. Lower heat and simmer until the slices are almost translucent, about 5 minutes. Chill in the syrup and reserve until ready for use, for up to 2 weeks.

Prepare the lemon confit:
Peel strips of lemon skin with a vegetable peeler. Cut most of the white pith from the rinds and discard. Thinly julienne the peel using a sharp paring knife, place in a pot of cold water and bring to a boil. Strain and repeat this blanching procedure two more times.

Combine the water and 1 cup of sugar and bring to a boil. Add the julienned peel and return to a quick boil. As with the slices, lower the heat and simmer until the zest is almost translucent, about 5 minutes. Strain, saving the syrup if desired, and toss the zest with the remaining ½ cup of sugar. Arrange the sugar-coated zest on a wire cooling rack and let rest until dry, at least 1 hour. Store in an air-tight container until ready for use.

[Chef’s Note: It may seem tedious to cook the peel three times, but blanching the rind removes the bitterness and is a necessary step to produce an edible garnish. The candied zest will keep for about a month.]

Service

To assemble the napoleon, use four white chocolate rectangles per napoleon. Place one smooth side up on a plate. Neatly pipe three lines of lemon cream vertically on top of the white chocolate layer. Top with another layer of white chocolate, and then layer 2 slices of poached lemon over the chocolate layer and six raspberries on top of the lemon slices. Top with another layer of white chocolate. Pipe another three lines of lemon cream on this layer of white chocolate, and top with the final white chocolate layer. Arrange three strips of candied lemon peel on top of the final white chocolate layer for garnish.

Repeat the procedure with the remaining white chocolate and fillings. The napoleons are ready to enjoy now or can be refrigerated for up to about 4 hours until ready to serve.

Variations

Try this dessert with a lime or an orange cream instead of lemon by substituting equal parts juice and zest of your desired fruit. Feel free to use fresh strawberries, blackberries or blueberries instead of the raspberries.

Recipe and photo by Monica Glass

You can make this dish with either of the sauces or both for a nice visual and taste bud treat. We used free-range veal here, as the cook in charge (in this case our talented photographer Kelly Cline) is convinced it has more flavor while remaining succulent. You can also substitute chicken breast in this recipe.

Serves 4

Ingredients

For the roulade:
1-lb. veal cutlet (ask the butcher to cut it about 5/8″ thick from a whole top round)
Two pinches sea salt, finely ground
3 Leek Leaves, opened with the green tops cut off, softened in warm salt water
1 cup Wild Rice with Leeks and Portabello Mushrooms (recipe below)
2 tablespoons melted butter
½ cup fresh chervil, finely chopped

For the sauces:
Savory Chocolate Gravy (recipe below)
Creamy Leek Sauce (recipe below)

Preparation

For the leeks:
Soak leeks in a water bath to remove the dirt and carefully remove. Place them into a warm salt water bath to soften.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

For the veal:
Pound the veal cutlet until it is a thin rectangle (about 5″x10″), being careful not to pierce any holes in it with your mallet (or the filling will spill out). Lay the pounded cutlet on a large piece of parchment (or wax) paper to ease in the rolling process. Lay the cutlet down on the paper and season it with a pinch of finely ground sea salt.

[Chef’s Note: If you do not have a kitchen mallet, you can also use a heavy pan or rolling pin to pound out the veal cutlet.]

Remove the leeks from the bath and lay them slightly left of center of the cutlet, parallel to the long sides. Spoon and spread the rice mixture evenly over the leek sheets.

Carefully roll the veal cutlet and stuffing, using the parchment paper to help keep the shape of the roll. Tie it with kitchen twine at ½-inch intervals to keep the roulade’s shape while it cooks. Brush the outside with melted butter and roll the roulade in the chopped chervil.

Place the meat in baking dish, cover loosely with aluminum foil and place it in the oven for approximately 30 minutes, or until it reaches 150 degrees F. Remove it from the oven and let it rest for ten minutes before slicing and plating.

Service

Spoon some of the leftover rice in the center of each plate. Place 1-inch slices of roulade on top of the rice (with the filling facing up) and dress with the sauces, one on each side.

Wild Rice with Leeks and Portabello Mushrooms

Ingredients
2 cups wild grain rice cooked in beef broth
1 portabello mushroom, gills and stem removed, finely chopped
1/8 cup leek, whites only, finely chopped
1 tablespoon butter
freshly ground white pepper

Preparation
Heat butter in a small sauté pan. Add leeks and mushrooms and sauté until they release their aroma and juices, and the leeks are just beginning to turn clear. Season with a pepper to taste and add the mixture to the wild rice.

Creamy Leek Sauce

Ingredients
1/2 cup leeks, chopped and cooked until soft in 1/2 cup chicken broth
1/2 cup white wine
1 cup chicken broth
1 tablespoon butter
1/4 cup heavy cream

Preparation
Cook the leeks and process in a blender with leftover broth until smooth. (Be careful to let it cool slightly before blending to prevent an explosion of heat.) Strain mixture through a cheesecloth and set aside.

Place wine and chicken broth in a medium sauce pan. Using a very low flame, reduce the sauce to ¼ its volume, careful not to scorch the sauce. Add the butter and strained leek juice to the reduced mixture and remove from heat. Fold in the cream to prevent curdling.

Savory Chocolate Gravy

Ingredients
2 cups beef broth
2 cups red wine (we used Merlot here)
1/8 cup currants
4 kumquats, finely chopped
2 tablespoons unsweetened chocolate, grated
1 tablespoon butter

½ teaspoon butter
½ teaspoon flour

Preparation

Combine wine and beef broth in a medium sauce pan and reduce by ½. Add currants, kumquats, chocolate, and butter, whisking lightly to blend.

Blend the remaining butter and flour together and add into sauce for thickening. Cook several minutes to allow flour taste to cook off.

Recipe and photo by Kelly Cline

This is an unusual combination of sweet flavors with spicy, hot sensations. Traditionally, cuisines from temperate regions of the world, as such as Asia, Latin America, the Caribbean, Africa and the Mediterranean have always combined these ingredients. This time we are celebrating these aphrodisiac flavors in the form of truffles. Be sure to allow yourself two days to craft this recipe, as the truffles need to sit overnight in the refrigerator.

Makes 50 truffles

Ingredients

For the spicy, semi-solid ganache:
1 lb ( 16 oz ) semi-sweet chocolate, chopped
1 teaspoon Thai Curry Paste for Desserts (recipe follows), or to taste
1-1/2 cups heavy cream

Cocoa powder for dusting (optional)
or
Toasted coconut flakes (optional)

Preparation

Place chopped chocolate in food processor and pulse until pea-size. Bring heavy cream to boiling point and mix in the curry paste for desserts. Stir to combine. Remove from heat, cover and infuse no more than 3 hours. Strain through a very fine sieve and re-heat to a boiling point.

Pour the chocolate mix into the tube of a running food processor. Process until mixture becomes smooth. Transfer into a clean bowl and let set overnight, covered, in the refrigerator.

Pipe onto a parchment lined cookie sheet and freeze overnight.

Pre-coat truffles with thin layer of tempered chocolate (see Chef’s Note below) and dust with cocoa powder, or toss in toasted coconut flakes.

[Chef’s Note: Chocolate is tempered when its temperature is between 84° and 88° F (29° and 31° C). One of the easiest ways to achieve this point is to place the chocolate in the microwave for 30 seconds at a time until the chocolate is melted; but be especially careful not to over do it. You may see lumps, but they will be dissolved with the residual heat of the chocolate. To speed this process up, you can use an immersion blender or a whisk. When the chocolate begins to set, scrape the sides of the bowl and mix in. It is very important to have your food thermometer on hand to verify when the mixture reaches ideal temperature.]

Thai curry paste recipe follows.

Thai Curry Paste for Desserts

Makes ½ cup

Ingredients

1 stalk lemongrass, finely sliced (use only the bottom 6” of the stalk)
1 teaspoon lime zest, preferably kaffir lime
1-2 dried Thai bird chiles, seeds removed
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 cardamom pods, husked
1-1/4 teaspoons turmeric
1 tablespoon coriander seeds
1-1/2 teaspoons cumin seeds
1 tablespoon fresh galangal or ginger root, minced (see Chef’s Note)
1 tablespoon coconut milk (optional)

Preparation

Toast cumin, coriander, cardamom and cinnamon in a skillet over medium heat for 3-4 minutes. Do not leave unattended, and shake the pan often to prevent burning. Remove from heat, cool.

If making in a mortar and pestle, pound all the ingredients into a smooth paste. If making in a blender or food processor, blend everything into a smooth paste. Transfer to a small container and keep refrigerated or frozen.

[Chef’s Note: This paste will keep for up to two weeks refrigerated and can be frozen in one-teaspoon quantities in an ice cube tray. To grind the ingredients use either a mortar and pestle, a blender, coffee grinder, or spice mill. Remember that the number of chiles is up to you; if you findthe paste too hot, simply reduce the number of chiles used.

Galanga, sometimes called “galangal,” is known as “kah” in Thailand and is used even more widely than fresh ginger. Use whole pieces of dried galangal and reconstitute them by soaking them in water. Powdered “kah” has very little flavor. Fresh ginger can be used as a substitute for kah.]
Recipe and photo by Melissa De Leon Douglass

Originally Posted January 2006

An adaptation of Dorie Greenspan’s Chocolate-Crunched Caramel Tart from her newest book Baking: From My Home to Yours, the luscious combination of chocolate, caramel and port offers a burst of flavors that delicately melt on your tongue. A silky port ganache conceals a layer of creamy, yet crunchy walnut caramel for a delightful contrast. Rather than use Dorie’s dough, we opted for a chocolate crust to magnify the chocolate intensity. The recipe can be prepared as one large tart, but we prefer the adorable charm of individual tarts. We also recommend serving at room temperature for the most luxurious texture, and within a day or two of being made.

Makes one 9 inch tart or one dozen 3 inch tartlets

Ingredients

For the tart dough:
½ cup unsalted butter, room temperature
½ cup powdered sugar
1 egg yolk
1½ cups flour
¼ cup unsweetened cocoa powder
Pinch salt

For the walnut caramel:
1 cup sugar
¼ cup water
2 tablespoons light corn syrup
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
½ cup heavy cream, warmed
Pinch salt
1 cup walnuts, toasted and coarsely chopped

For the port ganache:
8 ounces bittersweet chocolate (60-72%)
1 cup heavy cream
¼ cup light corn syrup
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
Pinch salt
¼ cup ruby port

Equipment

Stand Mixer
Rolling Pin
Silpat Mat
Tart Molds – either (1) 9-inch pan or (12) 3-inch molds

Preparation

Prepare the tart dough:
Cream the butter and powdered sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment until combined. Add the egg yolk and vanilla and beat until smooth. Add the flour, cocoa powder and salt, and mix on low speed until just combined, being careful not to overmix the dough. Gather the dough into a ball and form a flat disk onto a sheet of plastic wrap. Wrap and chill until firm, at least 1 hour, or up to 3 days.

[Chef’s Note: Allowing the freshly made dough to relax and chill before rolling out will ensure easier rolling, as the dough will not be as elastic and stretchy.]

Preheat the oven to 325 F. Roll the dough into a 12×18 inch rectangle or 12 inch circle (depending upon your tart pan shape), about 1/8 inch thick, on a lightly floured surface. If making one large tart, carefully roll the dough around the rolling pin and transfer to the pan. Press the dough into the pan, making sure to press all the way to the edges and up the sides, and then trim away any excess dough. If making individual tarts, cut out 12 rounds using a 4 inch round cutter and press them into the molds. Chill the tart shells for an hour, or up to 3 days.

[Chef’s Note: Chilling the shells at this point prevents the dough from tightening and shrinking while baking. If you’ve ever baked a tart or pie shell and had it shrink to lose half of the height, chances are your dough was not well chilled before baking.]

Line the large tart shell with foil or parchment paper and fill with dried beans, rice or pie weights to prevent the center from puffing up. You do not need to do this if you are making the smaller shells. Bake the larger shell for 15 minutes (smaller for 10 minutes), remove the foil and weights and bake for another 5-7 minutes to brown and set the center. Cool completely.

Prepare the walnut caramel:
Place the sugar, water and corn syrup in a large saucepan. Brush down the sides of the pan with water to remove any sugar granules and prevent crystallization. Cook over medium high heat, swirling the pan occasionally, until it turns an amber caramel, about 7 minutes. Turn off the heat and carefully whisk in the butter, then the heavy cream and salt until smooth. Stand back and use extreme caution because the mixture will bubble up and steam. Stir in the walnuts. Remove from heat and allow the caramel to cool slightly. While still warm, pour the caramel into the tart shell (or shells) and let cool until set, about 1 hour.

Prepare the port ganache:
Combine the heavy cream and corn syrup in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Place the chocolate in a separate bowl, and pour the hot cream over the chocolate and let sit for a few minutes to melt. Whisk the chocolate until smooth, then add the butter and salt and continue to whisk until entirely melted and incorporated. Add the port and whisk until emulsified and completely smooth.

Pour the ganache over the caramel while still warm and fluid, and let set at room temperature for 2-4 hours before serving.

Service

Each component can be made up to 3 days in advance, but the tarts should be assembled only 1 day in advance or the day of service to maintain freshness and crispness in the shell. Serve at room temperature for best consistency and taste.
Recipe and photo by Monica Glass

Sweet dark cherries simmered in ruby port wine with a hint of star anise and cinnamon is the ideal topping for a perfect ending dessert. Serve over ice cream, as a filling for éclairs, or a spread for cheesecake.

4 servings

Ingredients

1 cup ruby port
¾ cup sugar
1 lb fresh or frozen pitted cherries
1 cinnamon stick
¼ teaspoon ground star anise
5 teaspoons cornstarch
5 teaspoons water
1 teaspoon vanilla

Equipment

Small saucepan, cherry pitter (or paring knife), plastic gloves, plastic cutting board

Preparation

Prepare the cherries:
Pit the cherries using a cherry pitter or paring knife. To use a paring knife, cut around the circumference of the cherry, pull the halves apart and remove pit.

[Chef’s note: Cherry juice will stain. Use care when pitting the cherries by using plastic gloves, cutting boards and frequently wiping up juice spills on your counter.]

Make the sauce:
Combine the port wine and sugar in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Add the cherries, cinnamon stick and star anise and simmer for 5–10 minutes until the mixture reduces and starts to become syrupy.

[Chef’s note: If using frozen cherries, you might need to simmer a bit longer to defrost the cherries and reduce the resulting water.]

Mix the cornstarch and water together to make a slurry, stirring until completely dissolved. Add the cornstarch slurry to the sauce and bring to boil. Reduce the heat, and continue to simmer until the mixture is thick and shiny. Remove from the heat and cool completely. Cover and chill until ready to serve.

Service

Serve over your favorite ice cream or creamy rice pudding. The sauce can also be spread over cheesecake.

Variations

For a great homemade Cherries Jubilee Ice Cream, bring a quart of good-quality vanilla bean ice cream to room temperature, mix the Cherry Port Sauce with the ice cream and place back into a freezer-safe container. Freeze 24 hours, then serve.

Recipe and photo by Lia Soscia

What better way to have your drink than to eat it for dessert? And with a wiggle this seductive, you can’t resist this pear panna cotta: Cool and creamy, soft and silky, the pear panna cotta is wonderfully delicate, and the covering of port gelée is the perfect flavor accent, intensifying the refreshing dessert. The beauty of panna cotta lies in its ease of preparation and the pure, simple flavor of cream. Since there are so few ingredients, it is important to only use the best and purest.

10-12 servings

Ingredients

For the pear panna cotta:
3 pears (enough to make 1 ½ cups purée)
1 package unflavored gelatin (.25 oz)
2 tablespoons cold water
1 ½ cups heavy cream
1 cup milk
¼ cup sugar
1 vanilla bean, split and seeds scraped
1 cinnamon stick
A pinch of salt

For the port gelée:
2 cups ruby port
1 tablespoon lemon juice
2/3 cup sugar
2 teaspoons gelatin
1 ½ tablespoons cold water

For the reduced port sauce (optional):
1 cup ruby port
1 teaspoon sugar

Equipment

Handheld immersion blender or food processor
Fine mesh sieve
Molds or ramekins

Preparation

Prepare the pear panna cotta:
Peel and chop the pears. Place in a small saucepan with a few tablespoons of water and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cook until the fruit is tender, about 7-10 minutes, and then allow to cool. Using a handheld immersion blender or a food processor, purée the pears until smooth. Pass through a fine mesh sieve and reserve the purée for the panna cotta.

Place the water in a small dish and sprinkle the gelatin over it. Let rest for 5 minutes, until the gelatin is dissolved and softened. Combine the heavy cream, milk, pear purée, sugar, vanilla seeds and bean, cinnamon stick and salt in a medium saucepan. Heat to a simmer and allow to steep for 5 minutes. Add the gelatin mixture to the hot cream, stirring until the gelatin dissolves, and then strain through a fine mesh sieve into a large measuring cup with a spout. Divide among ramekins (see Variations for more on ramekins) and refrigerate until chilled and set.

Prepare the port gelée:
Place the water in a small dish and sprinkle the gelatin over it. Let it rest for 5 minutes, until the gelatin is dissolved and softened. Bring the port, lemon juice and sugar to a simmer in a small saucepan and continue to simmer for another 3 minutes until just slightly reduced. Remove from the heat and add the softened gelatin to the warm mixture, whisking until the gelatin dissolves. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and allow to cool to room temperature. Gently pour it over the panna cotta in the ramekins (or see Variations for more molding ideas). Refrigerate until chilled and set.

Prepare the port sauce:
Bring the port and the sugar to a low simmer over medium-low heat in a small saucepan and continue to simmer until reduced by half, about 7 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow to cool to room temperature.

Service

To unmold the panna cotta, dip the ramekin or mold into warm water for 5 seconds to release it. Be careful not to have the water too hot or keep it under the water for too long, or the panna cotta may melt. Carefully loosen the edges and gently wiggle the panna cotta out of the mold.

Pour the port sauce into a squeeze bottle to decorate the plates with dots of sauce, or using a paint brush, paint a line of sauce across the plates. Carefully transfer one unmolded panna cotta to each plate. Serve and enjoy!

[Chef’s Note: It’s a good idea to prepare this dessert a day in advance, as you need to allow time for the gelatin to set.]

Variations

This recipe can be adapted for a variety of molds/ramekins and styles. Feel free to layer the panna cotta and gelée by pouring a small amount of panna cotta into the mold and refrigerating until set (about 1 hour), then pouring an equal amount of gelée and refrigerating until set, continuing to repeat the layers. Or to make a panna cotta with a single layer of gelée on top, first pour the gelée into the bottom of the mold, refrigerate until set, and then pour a larger amount of the panna cotta on top of the gelée. Let set and unmold turning upside down so the panna cotta is on the bottom and the gelée is on top. Or pour the panna cotta into a clear glass, let set, and then pour a thin layer of the gelée on top of the panna cotta for an attractive parfait which you can serve directly.

Recipe and photo by Monica Glass

This dish is deceptively simple, and is a great technique for preparing duck breast with any kind of sauce. We think the port pairs so well with the richness of the duck, and who can resist a dish with figs? Serve over a disc of polenta pan-fried in a little hazelnut oil and a simple salad of mixed greens for an exquisite meal.

4 servings

Ingredients

4 6-8 ounce boneless duck breasts, skin intact (or 2 larger duck breasts, 8 ounces per person)
Sea salt and freshly ground white peppercorn, to taste

For the port demi-glace:
6 fresh figs, halved (or dried if out of season)
1 teaspoon of whole white peppercorns
½ teaspoon finely minced chervil (or parsley)
1 cup ruby port

Equipment

Stainless steel sauté pan

Preparation

Sear the duck breasts:
Score the skin of the duck breasts lightly in a diamond pattern, being careful not to cut all the way through to the flesh. Sprinkle generously with flakes of sea salt and a few grinds of white peppercorn on the skin side. Heat a large stainless steel sauté pan over medium-high heat until it’s very hot. Lay the duck breasts in the dry pan skin side down, searing until the skin is brown and crispy. When ready, the fat will begin to render from the duck and it will release itself from the pan. Turn the breasts over and sear on the other side until the breasts are cooked to your taste. For medium-rare, leave on the second side for 5-7 minutes. Remove them from the pan and set aside covered with tinfoil while preparing the sauce.

[Chef’s Note: Scoring the duck breasts allows the fat to render out and develop a crispy, caramelized skin. If the sauté pan is not large enough to comfortably fit all the duck breasts at once, use two sauté pans. The duck breasts should register 155-160° F on a meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the meat. Be sure to insert the thermometer between the skin and flesh so as not to pierce the skin. The duck will continue to cook while resting, so be careful not to overcook.]

Prepare the port demi-glace:
While the sauté pan is still hot, add the port, whole white peppercorns, and chervil or parsley to the rendered duck fat and deglaze the pan. Using a whisk, scrape the browned bits off the bottom of the pan, and continue to whisk until the mixture is reduced and emulsified. The sauce is ready when reduced to a glaze. Add the halved fresh figs and gently stir until heated through.

[Chef’s Note: if you are using dried figs, reconstitute them by adding them to the port before it begins to reduce.]

Service
Serve with a green salad and polenta fried in hazelnut oil. Place the polenta on the plate, and lay one duck breast over it, then sauce with the port glaze, adding one or two fig halves to each serving.
Recipe and photo by Kelly Cline

Did you have one (or ten) too many cookies last month? We know how you feel. Join us and make one soup every day this week for a post-holiday detox.

This recipe is exceedingly simple: you can prepare it in advance, and serve it as the first course of a dinner party.  The flavor profile will be perfect for stimulating the appetite for the rest of a late Spring meal.  The advantage of this recipe is that it can be served year-round, either warm in the cold months, or chilled in the Spring or Summer. It also freezes well, so you can even keep it for those cold Winter nights! Note: This recipe appears in our Gilded Fork: Entertaining at Home cookbook.

4 servings

Ingredients

1 medium onion, diced
½ teaspoon olive oil
1 tablespoon maple syrup
1 tablespoon honey
1 tablespoon ginger root, grated
1 cup carrot, peeled and chopped
3 cups vegetable stock
1 small sweet potato, peeled and diced
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon black pepper
¼ teaspoon thyme, dried
¼ teaspoon garlic clove, minced

Equipment
Heavy-bottomed medium saucepan
Food processor or immersion blender

Preparation

Heat a deep saucepan or soup pot over medium heat and add the olive oil. Sauté the diced onion until it becomes translucent, about 5-8 minutes. You do not want to caramelize the onion, just sweat it.

Add the maple syrup, honey and ginger to the pot, and stir thoroughly until combined. Continue to cook until the onions begin to turn a lovely shade of golden brown, about 10 minutes longer. Add all the remaining ingredients, stir to combine. Cover and simmer for another 10 minutes until the carrots are soft.

Cool slightly, then purée. Serve warm or chilled.

Recipe by Mark Tafoya
Photo by Ken Stoeffler

The flavors and fragrances of this champagne are elegant and timeless, with a generous hint of spice, echoing the flavors of a mulled wine. The spiced syrup can be made well in advance, and its flavors will intensify as it rests.

Yields enough syrup for one bottle of champagne or sparkling wine

Ingredients

4 cups apple or white grape juice
1 teaspoon whole cloves, crushed
1 teaspoon crystallized ginger, chopped
½ teaspoon allspice berries, crushed
2 tablespoons orange zest, pith completely removed
¼ of one whole vanilla bean, left intact

1 bottle of dry champagne or sparkling wine
4×4” square of cheesecloth
Kitchen twine

Preparation

Prepare the spice sachet:
Place all of the spices, zest and vanilla bean segment into a sachet made from a double thickness of standard cheesecloth.  Tie it off with kitchen twine.

Prepare the spiced syrup:
In a small sauce pan, heat 4 cups of either the apple or white grape juice over medium-high heat until just beginning to boil.  Place the sachet into the juice, reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until reduced by about half (20-30 minutes).  Remove from heat and allow to cool for 15 minutes.  Remove the sachet, squeezing all the juice from the bundle.  Pour the syrup through a fine mesh sieve into a clean glass container.  Allow to completely cool.  Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.  The syrup will become thicker as it cools.

Service

To serve, add 1 part spiced syrup to 2 parts champagne or sparkling wine.

[Chef’s Note: If you don’t want to fuss with a sachet, simply toss all of the mulling spices into the pan with the juice and proceed with the recipe.  When you strain the syrup, strain it through cheesecloth or a coffee filter to catch the fine sediment of the spices.

When selecting your champagne or sparkling wine, remember that there is a bit of sweet to the spiced syrup.  If you want a dry, elegant cocktail we recommend using a Brut champagne or sparkling wine.  If you intend to use this recipe as an aperitif or as an after-dinner toast, a sweeter, extra-dry champagne may be more to your liking.

Recipe and photo by Kelly Cline

Cocktail party: A gathering held to enable forty people to talk about themselves at the same time. The man who remains after the liquor is gone is the host.
- Fred Allen

Origin
The origin of the term “cocktail” itself is rife with rumor and speculation, so we’ll leave that to the drink historians. We are far more concerned with putting the cocktail into practice. However, for reference, the term was included in the magazine The Balance in May 1806: “Cocktail is a stimulating liquor, composed of spirits of any kind, sugar, water, and bitters – it is vulgarly called bittered sling and is supposed to be an excellent electioneering potion.”

Description
Ah, the cocktail. It is the introduction to “happy hour,” the ice-breaker, the way to finish a long day and start a magnificent evening. Cocktails can be as simple as scotch on the rocks or as complex as one’s imagination will allow, so it is the one type of beverage that allows for utter creativity.

Some cocktails have fallen strictly under the umbrella of “girlie,” i.e. the Cosmopolitan, sweet martinis (chocolate et. al.) and fruit-laced concoctions, while others are very “masculine.” Think of the dry martini, gin and tonics or any kind of strong spirit. We tend to stay away from lines of gender demarcation and bring all varieties of cocktails together for our favorite type of gathering: the cocktail party.

The Cocktail Party
Here’s where we get to the good stuff. Cocktails are so popular that entire parties have been crafted around them, and we are partial to such gatherings this time of year. Cocktail parties are easiest on the schedule of the holiday cook; they do not require the critical timing of service or individual plating, and most dishes can be made in advance. We thus prefer to set up a bar, put out some hors d’oeuvres and let our guests help themselves to the bounty.

If your party is scheduled to take place around the dinner hour, understand that people will probably arrive hungry for dinner. This doesn’t mean you need to feed them dinner, of course, but you should be prepared to serve hors d’oeuvres that are substantial enough to get them through the next couple of hours. There is nothing worse than leaving a party with a hunger pain.

We have an entire collection of Appetizers to fuel your inspiration, and those can be served along with the crudités and/or cheese boards. Use your imagination and have fun with the creative process.

You can estimate recipe quantities by assuming 4 portions per person for light dishes and 3 portions for heartier fare, provided you also serve other nibbles like crudités and a cheese board. (There really is no reason why you shouldn’t, as they are a snap to put together.) However, if you are truly reluctant to do so, double the portions of hors d’oeuvres per person to be safe. Also, if you have vegetarian guests, be sure to include enough portions to compensate for the other dishes they will not be eating, and/or add more to the crudités and cheese board.

The flow of your cocktail party menu should be as follows:

Crudités/Light Hors d’Oeuvres
Hearty Hors d’Oeuvres
Cheese Board/Dessert Items

Here is an example:

Light hors d’oeuvres:
Crudités with Aoili Garni
Smoked Trout with Horseradish Crème Fraîche on Toast Points
Eggs with Caviar and Salmon Rosettes

Hearty hors d’oeuvres:
Lobster Bisque Shooters
Mini Savory Bites
Grilled Lemongrass Shrimp
Grilled Beef with Spicy Satay Dip
Cheese Board (optional)

Dessert items:
Cheese Board
and/or
Thai Curry Truffles
Olive Oil Brownies with Toasted Walnuts
Pecan Shortbread
Lavender Pound Cake with Lemon Glaze

The flow of dishes above accounts for two important considerations: (1) early guests have something to nibble until the bulk of the crowd arrives; and (2) hot food can be presented when you have the maximum crowd there, so it can be enjoyed at its peak of temperature and freshness.

We recommend serving the light hors d’oeuvres for the first 20-30 minutes, as most people tend to be “fashionably” late — this is a judgment call you will have to make according to the size of the crowd at that time.

In case you have not yet perused our Entertaining section, our article The Magic of Ambience is full of tips and tricks to set the right mood for your gathering, including lighting, music and table displays.

Bar Setup
This is the critical component. For a cocktail party, you will need to decide whether there will be a bartender or self-serve setup. If it is the former, and the barman is a professional, he will likely have a repertoire he prefers to serve. For our purposes here, however, we will assume a self-serve setup.

At its most basic, your bar should include the following items:

Liquors
Gin
Vodka
Rum
Whiskey (at least Bourbon and Scotch)
Vermouth
Tequila (Reposado)

Accompaniments/Mixers
Tonic water
Club soda
Coke
7-Up
Sour mix
Common fruit juices – fresh, or those not from concentrates (i.e. lime, cranberry, grapefruit, etc.)
Lime wedges
Lemon wedges
Cocktail olives (you may want to keep the juice in a small glass container for dirty martinis)
Ice (app. 1 pound per guest per hour (for about 3 servings)

[Mixologist's Notes: Though troublesome, buying a bunch of fun ice molds and making your own ice with mineral water would also be a nice touch. Also, carbonated mixers in cans are easier to chill and manage.]

Accessories
Wine glasses (champagne, red, white)
Cocktail glasses
Cocktail shaker(s)
Stirrers
Cocktail napkins

[Mixologist's Note: You may also wish to consider disposable plasticware shaped just like the cocktail and wine glassware and/or champagne flutes.]

For those who might prefer wine to cocktails, it is best to include an assortment of red, white, and sparkling wines (see Alder’s favorite $10 wines for some suggestions).

Alternative Approaches

Pre-mixes
An alternative to the basic setup suggested above would be to offer about five of the most popular types of cocktails in your city, and simply set up the bar according to that (or if you are serving a crowd of close friends, you might already know which types they prefer.)

In this instance, the alcoholic components could be premixed in a bottle, while the rest of the ingredients could be prepared in another (except for carbonated items). This way, the alcoholic pre-mixes that are not consumed could be used for another occasion, as the more perishable non-alcoholic portions are mixed separately.

For example, in our Lychee Martini recipe, each serving requires about 1¾ ounces of the alcoholic pre-mix (lychee liqueur, vanilla flavored vodka and Cointreau), and about 2 ounces of the non-alcoholic pre-mix (lychee brine blended with fresh lychees). For a self-serve bar, label each bottle with simple instructions and the amount required per serving, and color-code those that are used for the same recipe.

3-Course Cocktails
Another possibility to explore is to match the cocktails with the flow of the food. Just like aperitifs are traditionally used as liquid appetizers, one might explore refreshing and/or tart cocktail recipes in the first course (i.e. Lychee Martini, Mojito, Cosmopolitan), followed by stronger & heavier styles (i.e. Pina Colada, Godmother, Manhattan).

For the first course cocktail, start experimenting with tart ingredients such as raspberries, pomegranate or cranberries, and refreshing items such as mint, grapefruit, lemongrass and lychee.

The third course would be great with champagne-based cocktails (i.e. Clove Spiced Champagne, Bellini) with sharp, distinctive notes to add a celebratory note, perhaps for a Christmas or New Year’s countdown toast.

Home-made
If you have the time and are feeling creative, you can even prepare your own flavored vodkas, i.e. Granny Smith apple and cinnamon. From these bases, you could have a wild adventure of exotic martinis.

Recipes
Our Cocktails section has a full listing of recipes, including non-alcoholic (virgin) options, so go and explore!

Rich with caramel flavor, aroma and color, this moist and dense pound cake is accented with chestnuts. The nuttiness and perfume of the winter nut perfectly complements the deep caramel flavor. Here we use chestnuts in three forms — sweetened cream, flour and chestnut pieces — to blissfully savor their buttery sweet, yet savory flavor. Enjoyed solo or with whipped cream, this cake is definitely worthy of the finest festive spread for both Thanksgiving and the Yuletide season.

Serves 12

Ingredients

For the caramel sauce:
1/2 cup sugar
1/4 cup water
1/2 cup heavy cream

For the pound cake:
3/4 cup (6 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1/4 cup sugar
caramel sauce (from above)
1/2 cup (150 grams) sweetened chestnut puree
4 eggs
1 1/2 cups all purpose flour
1/4 cup chestnut flour, optional (can substitute all-purpose flour)
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup chestnuts (candied, fresh or canned), chopped (optional)

Equipment

8×4 inch loaf pan
Electric handheld or stand mixer
Medium sized non-reactive metal saucepan
Non-stick baking spray
Rubber spatula
Whisk

Preparation

For the caramel sauce:
Wet the sugar with the water in a medium saucepan and stir to dissolve. Place the pan over medium heat. Cook without stirring, swirling the pan occasionally, until the water evaporates and the sugar turns a deep amber color. In a separate pan or in the microwave, heat the cream. Remove the caramelized sugar from the heat and carefully whisk in the warmed cream. It will spatter and boil up, so it is best to stand back when adding the cream. Place back on the heat and whisk to remove any remaining lumps of sugar. Quickly pour into a clean glass or metal bowl to cool. Set aside to cool to room temperature.

For the pound cake:
Preheat the oven to 325 F. Spray an 8×4-inch loaf pan with non-stick baking spray. Sift the flours, baking powder and salt together. Set aside.

Using an electric mixer, cream the butter and sugar together on medium speed until light and fluffy. Beat in the eggs, one at a time, until incorporated. Add the caramel sauce and the sweetened chestnut purée, beating to combine. Add the sifted dry ingredients and mix only until combined. Fold in the chopped chestnuts.

Pour the batter into the prepared loaf pan and tap gently on the counter to even out and settle the ingredients. Bake in the preheated oven for 45-50 minutes until golden and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let cool completely.

Variations

Soak the chestnuts in brandy or cognac overnight for a subtle boost of flavor.
Recipe and photo by Monica Glass

To chase away that nip in the air, try warming your insides with this hot, chocolaty treat. Although the terms are often used interchangeably, note that there is a difference between hot cocoa and hot chocolate: Hot cocoa is typically just water or milk and cocoa powder, while, made from chocolate bars melted into cream, hot chocolate is a rich and decadent drink. Here is an intoxicating twist on our favorite winter warmer; flavored with two varieties of chestnuts and triple chocolate, this is a creamy, cozy sip — the kind of food you can cuddle up to (and we suspect that few adults would object to sneaking in a splash of brandy or cognac.)

Serves 4-6

Ingredients

For the hot chocolate:
3 cups milk
1 cup heavy cream or half-and-half
4 peeled chestnuts (fresh, canned or frozen may be used)
zest of 1/2 orange
1/2 vanilla bean, split and seeds scraped
4 ounces milk chocolate
2 ounces bittersweet chocolate
2 ounces unsweetened chocolate
1/4 cup sweetened chestnut cream
1/2 teaspoon salt
4 tablespoons brandy or cognac (optional), or to taste

For the chestnut whipped cream:
1 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons sweetened chestnut cream

Equipment

Handheld immersion blender
Handheld or standing electric mixer
Liquid measuring cup
Non-reactive metal saucepan
Rubber spatula
Whisk
Zester

Preparation

Prepare the hot chocolate:
Combine the milk, heavy cream, chestnuts, vanilla bean and orange zest in a heavy saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Remove from heat and let steep for about 15 minutes, until the chestnuts start breaking down and become softer.

Remove the vanilla bean, and using a handheld immersion blender, purée and then strain the mixture through a fine mesh sieve. Return the liquid to the saucepan and bring back to a simmer over medium heat.

Meanwhile, place the chocolates in a large bowl. Pour the boiled liquid over the chocolate, let sit for one minute, and whisk to combine. Add salt and whisk in the chestnut purée and brandy or cognac, if desired. Purée with a handheld blender for a smoother texture.

Prepare the chestnut whipped cream:
Whip 1 cup heavy cream until stiff peaks form. Whip 2 tablespoons sweetened chestnut purée in an electric mixture until light. Using a rubber spatula, fold the whipped cream into the chestnut purée in three additions until combined.

[Chef’s Note: If you do not have a handheld blender, let the mixture cool slightly and purée in a blender.]

Service

Serve the hot chocolate in mugs topped with a dollop of whipped cream. The hot chocolate can be made ahead, if desired. Cool completely and refrigerate. When ready to serve, heat it gently in a saucepan over low heat or in intervals in the microwave.

Variations

You can substitute all milk or all cream depending upon how rich and creamy you want the hot chocolate to be. Add a cinnamon stick or pinch of chipotle pepper to the simmering liquid for an adventurous surprise!

Recipe by Monica Glass

The origin of the classic holiday egg nog dates back to old England, when well-to-do hostesses served a concoction of milk mixed with sherry called a “sack posset,” a posset being a drink made from milk, egg, sugar and wine, with a number of variations to this combination.  Sack was the Shakespearean term for sherry at the time.

Egg nog became a popular drink in the American colonies for social functions. Rum, which was plentiful in the New World at that time, became the dominant base spirit. President George Washington reportedly created his own eggnog recipe that included rye whiskey, rum and sherry.

Some say the origins of the word egg nog (also seen as eggnog) came from the word “noggin” which was a drinking vessel in English taverns. An “egg in a noggin” or “egg and grog” was a rich drink to toast one’s health. Today, eggnog endures as a quintessential holiday beverage enjoyed around the world.

There are many recipes for a traditional “sack posset.” The easiest is: one fresh beaten egg, one tablespoon Dry Sack sherry and eight ounces of fresh whole milk. Combine ingredients in a shaker or blender. Pour over ice. Top with sprinkles of ground nutmeg.

We love to put brandy in our egg nog, and mixologist Chris Hannah from the French 75 Bar at Arnaud’s restaurant in New Orleans shared his contemporary versions of traditional recipes using both sherry and, with a twist, Spanish brandy. Here, he uses Gran Duque de Alba Solera Gran Reserva, one of the world’s leading Brandy de Jerez, which presents a delicate flavor of toasted nuts, caramel and figs. The sherry is Dry Sack, a popular medium dry amontillado with a smooth, nutty aroma and taste.

Spanish Nog

(single serving)

Ingredients

¾ ounce Gran Duque de Alba
¾ ounce Dry Sack
1 whole fresh egg, beatn
¼ ounce simple syrup
1 ounce Half and Half
1 ounce heavy whipping cream
¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg

Preparation

Shake ingredients in cocktail shaker filled with ice. Strain over ice in an old fashioned glass. Top with ground nutmeg.

Velvet Egg Nog

(single serving)

Ingredients

¾ ounce Gran Duque de Alba
1 ounce Peppermint Schnapps
1 ounce Frangelico
1 whole fresh egg, beaten
¼ ounce simple syrup
1 ounce Half and Half
1 ounce heavy whipping cream
Dash of nutmeg

Preparation

Combine ingredients over ice in a rocks glass. Top with ground nutmeg.

Variation

If you don’t want to make your own egg nog, substitute four ounces of good quality store bought egg nog. Add one ounce Peppermint Schnapps, one ounce of Frangelico and three-fourths ounce Gran Duque de Alba. Combine, pour over ice and top with sprinkles of nutmeg.

Recipe (c) 2008 Chris Hannah. Reprinted with permission.

a test kitchen dossier

I’ve learned there are three things you don’t discuss with people: religion, politics and the Great Pumpkin.
- Linus, It’s the Great Pumpkin, Charlie Brown

Foodstuff: Pumpkin

Etymology: Alteration of obsolete pumpion, from obsolete French pompon, popon, from Old French pepon, from Late Latin pepon, from Latin, watermelon or gourd, from Greek, ripe, large melon.

Area of Origin: North America, specifically southern Mexico.

Description
Such a happy little friend is the bright orange pumpkin. He makes us think of jack o’ lanterns, fairy tale coaches, Ichabod Crane and even the Land of Oz. However, we rather like to eat him instead! Botanically, pumpkin is usually listed along with summer squash, but because it has a harder exterior and more solid flesh than zucchini, yellow, and other varieties of summer squash, it is typically grouped in with winter squash. Unlike winter squash, however, pumpkin is usually available just in the early autumn months; of course, this might have more to do with the market demanding pumpkins in October, when the vast majority of larger pumpkins go for decoration and for jack o’ lanterns! Pumpkin, like other orange colored vegetables, is high in beta–carotene.

History
Pumpkin seeds dating as far back as 7000 BC have been found in Mexico, and references from other continents can be found in the evolution of the pumpkin’s name from Latin, Greek and Old French. In North America, however, the pumpkin’s use is most well known.

Native American Indians used pumpkin as a staple in their diets centuries before the pilgrims landed, and made use of all parts of the pumpkin in their daily activities. They dried strips of pumpkin and wove them into mats, roasted long strips for eating, and used their flesh in recipes both savory and sweet. Interestingly enough, the origin of pumpkin pie is thought to have occurred when the colonists sliced off the pumpkin top, removed the seeds, and then filled it with milk, spices and honey. The pumpkin was then baked in the hot ashes of a dying fire (Source: www.pumpkinpatch.com).

Picking Pumpkins
Look for a hard rind with a firm stem and a bright orange color. The best pumpkin is like a gem: It should be perfect, deep and vibrant in color, and the surface should be smooth with no soft spots or cracks. When knocked, it should have a pleasant hollow “thump,” and be heavy for its size (which indicates a good ratio of flesh to inner cavity).

There is no significant difference in taste between large and small pumpkins, and although large pumpkins are prized at state fairs and for the scariest jack o’ lanterns, the best pumpkins for eating are the smaller ones (those less than four pounds) because the inner flesh is less fibrous. You will sometimes see “baking pumpkins” or “sugar pumpkins” in the supermarket, which do tend to be smaller and sweeter. Choose these whenever possible.

Cooking with Pumpkins
Pumpkins keep for a long time if kept in a cool place, and if the flesh is unblemished. Note: Since the outer flesh is so hard and durable (good for the pumpkin), it can be hard to get at the tender inner flesh (bad for Peter Peter).

To get chunks of pumpkin flesh for sautéing or for another purpose, it’s easiest to peel away the outer skin first, the same way you might remove the outer flesh of an orange. Cut off the top and bottom so that the pumpkin lies flat, then use a sharp knife to remove the outer flesh, curving along the outside from top to bottom. One you’ve removed all the skin, then you can cut it in half and remove the seeds and flesh.

If making pumpkin purée, you can simply cut the pumpkin open, remove the inner strings and seeds, and steam or bake the halves until the flesh is tender. Then you can scrape the flesh away and mash it or pass it through a ricer. It’s never advisable to boil pumpkin, as it absorbs too much water and gets mushy, and boiling leeches out the vitamins into the water (there’s nothing like orange water down the drain to ruin the pumpkin-esque goodness of a recipe).

Pumpkin seeds, or pepitas (recipe below), are incredibly popular as a snack in Mexico, where the pumpkin is native. They are a healthy snack for the kids, and are easy to make.

Pumpkin blossoms are also a tasty treat which can be enjoyed in many ways. (Be sure to peek inside to ensure no small insects are in there!) You may also wish to remove the stamen, which can sometimes be bitter. Pumpkin blossoms can be filled with goat cheese or ricotta, and cooked in a light tomato sauce, or lightly fried in oil.

Our Approach
We love pumpkin in both sweet and savory dishes given its smooth texture and hint of sweetness. We’ve used it in curry and bisque, and savored the crunch of pepitas. We couldn’t ignore the sweeter side, naturally, so there are also a few yummy desserts to savor (save some for holiday baking!).

Recipes

Calabacitas
Thai Red Curry Beef and Pumpkin
Roasted Pumpkin & Vegetable Medley with Creamy Polenta
Pumpkin Bisque
Pumpkin Streusel Cake
Pumpkin Flan with Ancho Chile Brittle
Pepitas (Spicy Pumpkin Seeds)

This test kitchen dossier is from our September 2006 issue.

The day of fortune is like a harvest day. We must be busy when the corn is ripe.
Torquato Tasso

Etymology
Given corn’s global prevalence, its etymology can be quite confusing. For example, in parts of Germany, korn means “rye,” where in Old English language, corn referred generally to the most prominent crop produced by a district.

In our case we are speaking of modern (sweet) corn, derived from the Spanish maize or mahiz, meaning “that which sustains us.” Known initially in the US as Indian corn (now renamed Zea mays), corn refers specifically to corn on the cob, so we’ll just go with that definition for our purposes. (We can’t make sense of all of it, either.)

Area of Origin
Mesoamerica, stretching south from the central part of Mexico to the northern part of Central America

History
Maize was flourishing in Central America around 8,000-5,000 BC before it made its way north, migrating along with the cultures that made it a dining staple. As a cultivated crop, corn had a large influence in transforming nomads into agrarian communities, which planted rows of the grain and tended the crop until it was time for harvest.

The ancient Mayans referred to themselves as “corn people” due to the vegetable’s leading role in their diet, and once it was established as a core crop in Mexico and the southwestern United States, corn found its way down into Peru. With the help of Christopher Columbus, the kernels made their debut in Europe and stretched eastward into Asia.

Given its adaptability to various climates, corn was able to firmly establish its place in worldwide cuisine, and has become an important part of sustenance in almost all cultures on the planet, including our own. In fact, if it weren’t for corn, the American settlers likely would have starved to death, so we owe the cob a little tip of the hat.

Description
Grown on every continent except Antarctica, the corn crop has more than 3,500 uses. We, of course, prefer it in its edible form. Unfortunately, corn has become a fall guy in the modern food arena, largely due to its use (and overuse) in virtually every area of our lives, from high fructose corn syrup to glue. We’re going to leave that debate to the documentarians and activists, however, and focus on the food — real, unprocessed food.

In Peru, the site of our culinary adventure in autumn of ‘09, we reveled in discovering more than 55 varieties of corn in hues of white, purple, yellow, black and red. We had no idea artisan, organic corn could taste so good, and we eagerly tasted cobs of choclo with its giant kernels. Sold as a popular street food at train stations, markets and popular gathering places, choclo offers a childlike delight as you pluck the kernels from the cob and pop them into your mouth. They don’t even require butter — just a touch of salt. We also enjoyed sips of chicha morada, a popular fermented corn beverage, which was served as a sweet afternoon refreshment.

Our Approach
A much-maligned vegetable, we’d like to celebrate corn’s goodness as a sweet siren of summer and a delicious treat to be enjoyed, as with all things, in moderation. There are scads of ways to go about said enjoyment, but here are some of our favorites. You can see more ideas in the recipe list below, which includes everything from a corn cocktail to some gorgeous riffs on cornbread.

Tip: Corn’s sugars start to convert to starch soon after it is picked, so the closer you can purchase corn to the farm, the better.

Corn on the Cob
Corn in its simplest, freshest form is the essence of summer. To enjoy it grilled, soak the corn in its husk for 30 minutes before grilling to avoid charring the husks. Pull down the husks to expose the kernels and remove the silk. Season with salt and butter (we’re not giving up the butter, and be careful with olive oil on the grill, as it does inspire a big flame) along with whatever else inspires you, then pull the husks back up before grilling. We love to slather our cobs with butter and ancho chile purée for a hot smoky flavor, or a mixture of honey, butter and cayenne pepper for a salty/spicy combination. For grilled “sweet” corn, mix brown sugar or agave nectar into the honey. And don’t be afraid of caramelization; it adds such a smoky sweetness to the corn that you’ll be missing out. If you don’t have access to a grill, a 400 F oven works splendidly.

Grits
The American south loves its grits (and so do we folk here in the northeast!). Grits are a classic breakfast dish, but they can serve as a wonderful side companion to fish, roasted vegetables or steaks. Buttery grits are a fantastic accompaniment to roasted Brussels sprouts, which we do love simply roasted with bacon. Grits also provide the perfect creamy balance to shrimp and crab dishes.

Corn Salsa
As an alternative to tomatoes, use corn kernels to make a colorful salsa. Mix with black beans, cilantro, green and red peppers, rice wine vinegar, lime juice and oil. Here again, we love cutting grilled corn kernels right off the cob, which adds flavor to the salsa that would be missing with frozen or canned corn.

Corn Breads
We give you permission to slather your cornbread with butter until it glistens. Try mixing whole, grilled corn kernels into the cornbread batter, and add finely chopped smoked bacon or roasted jalapenos for an another layer of flavor. We have two other variations listed below under Recipes.

Succotash
A popular Depression-era dish, succotash may evoke memories of Sylvester the cat, but we think it’s a great way to color your plate. A creative combination of corn and beans, succotash can serve as a wonderful partner for grilled fish. Try corn and edamame with ahi tuna. Or corn, lima beans, bacon, and red peppers as a bed for grilled halibut or sea bass.

Ice Cream
Sweet corn ice cream with caramel topping? Yes, please. Extract the “milk” from the cob with a grater and use in the ice cream custard base. Cold and creamy caramel corn sounds divine to us.

Polenta
We love us some polenta here in the Gilded Fork test kitchen. A fantastic gluten-free side dish, grilled polenta topped with sauteed mushrooms, melted Manchego and truffle oil (or chopped rosemary) is a crowd favorite. Or top polenta slices with basil pesto, a thick slice of tomato and olive oil and indulge. If you prefer the loose package of grains, stir in some cream while cooking them, which makes a smooth, luscious base for short ribs or pork loin.

Soups & Salads
We also get excited about corn soups, including the chorizo-laden bowl of goodness in the recipe list below. And as a salad, nothing screams summer like a corn salad with peppers of all varieties, scallions and chopped chorizo.

Popcorn
Butter and popcorn. What else is there to be said? Naturally, we like to take it a step further, so truffle oil is our topping of choice. Yes, darlings, the aroma is mesmerizing. If you are not a truffle fan, try a topping of melted butter mixed with grated Parmesan and fresh herbs.

Recipes
Fields of Gold Cocktail
Lobster Arepas
Calabacitas
Chipotle Corn Chowder
Roasted Pumpkin & Vegetable Medley with Creamy Polenta
Polenta Napoleons with Wild Mushroom Bruschetta & Truffles
Rosemary Corn Financiers
Upside-Down Cranberry Cornbread
Tropical Corn, Mango and Black Bean Salad with Honey
Butter-Baked Corn
Santa Fe Corn Fritters

Sources
Online Etymology Dictionary
Peru Travels
Prom Peru
Origin, History and Uses of Corn – Iowa State University
What’s Eating America, Michael Pollan, Smithsonian Magazine

Freshly made Lobster Bisque is a delicious start to any summer meal.  This rich and creamy version can be made in minutes using succulent lobster tails.  This saves preparation time, but still lends the same depth of flavor.  Make this appetizer even more interesting by serving the bisque in small shot glasses.

6 servings
Ingredients

2 cups lobster stock (see recipe)
2 cups coarsely chopped cooked lobster meat
4 tablespoons butter
1 onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 shallots, minced
½ cup flour
¼ cup dry sherry
2 tablespoons tomato paste
3 cups half-and-half
¼ teaspoon fresh ground white pepper
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon paprika
1 dash cayenne pepper
1 cup crème fraîche

Equipment

4 quart saucepan

Preparation

Add the butter to the 4 -quart saucepan and heat on medium high for 2 minutes. Add the chopped onion, garlic and shallots and sauté over medium heat until the onion becomes translucent. Sprinkle the flour a tablespoon at a time into vegetables while also adding small amounts of reserved lobster stock to keep the mixture from becoming too dry to mix.

Whisk the remaining cup of reserved lobster stock into the flour vegetable mixture. Whisk in the sherry and tomato paste and cook over medium heat stirring constantly until thickened.

Reduce the heat to low and whisk in the half-and-half, pepper, paprika and cayenne pepper. Simmer for 10 minutes. Add the lobster and continue to cook the bisque for another 2 minutes until the lobster meat is heated through. Adjust the seasonings to taste.

Service

Spoon the slightly cooled Lobster Bisque into shot glasses or other small cordial size glasses. Place a dollop of the crème fraîche on top and place a piece of lobster meat on top of the crème fraîche. Serve immediately.

Recipe by Lia Soscia

The combination of cucumbers and yogurt is a classic Balkan and Middle Eastern pairing. Here, we make use of the creaminess and soothing coolness in a chilled summer soup which requires no cooking. Take it along in a chilled thermos for a picnic pick-me-up, or serve it as we do in frosted glasses with springs of mint as a garnish.

This soup is featured in our Gilded Fork: Entertaining at Home cookbook.

4 servings

Ingredients

2 medium cucumbers
½ cup walnut pieces, toasted
1 garlic clove, very finely minced
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 tablespoons water
Juice of 1 lemon
1½ cups thick Greek style yogurt (or 2 cups regular plain yogurt)
½ cup parsley
¼ cup fresh mint leaves, chopped
salt and pepper, to taste
mint sprigs, for garnish

Preparation

Strain the yogurt:
If using regular yogurt, place it in a fine mesh strainer lined with cheesecloth set over a bowl to drain for 20 to 30 minutes. If using Greek style yogurt, omit this step.

Prepare the cucumber soup:
While the yogurt strains, toast the walnuts in a dry skillet over medium heat until they become toasted and the oils begin to develop.

[Chef’s Note: You will notice an aroma when the walnuts are toasted. Be watchful, as they will go from toasted to burnt in a matter of a few moments.]

Peel the cucumbers, slice them in half and scrape out the seeds with a small spoon. Cut the flesh into 1-inch pieces. Place the garlic clove in a food processor and pulse briefly until puréed. Add half of the cucumber along with the walnuts, parsley and half the mint and pulse until the mixture becomes a smooth purée. Add the oil and a little water, and pulse again to incorporate. Scrape down the sides as necessary.

Add the remaining cucumber to the blender or processor with a pinch of salt and the lemon juice. Pulse briefly. The soup should be relatively smooth, with a few remaining small pieces of cucumber for texture. Scrape the purée into a large bowl and stir in the yogurt to blend. Season the soup to taste with salt and pepper and add a little more lemon juice, if desired.

Cover with plastic wrap and chill in the refrigerator for about 30 minutes, or until chilled. Taste and adjust for seasoning and consistency, if necessary.

Service

Keep chilled in the refrigerator until ready to serve. Ladle into chilled bowls and garnish with mint leaves. For a more elegant presentation, we like to chill martini glasses in the freezer, then, just prior to service, pour the soup into the frosted glasses and garnish with a sprig of mint or a slice of cucumber on the rim of the glass.

Recipe by Mark Tafoya

Photo by Aniko Pasternak

The term smörgåsbord refers to a buffet-style table with a variety of dishes from which to choose. In Swedish, the word smörgås means “sandwich,” but we’ve put a lighter twist on things for this menu: Our summer smörgåsbord features refreshing dishes intended to stave off the heat. We’ve also kept our pairings very simple with inexpensive sparkling wines, as the palate seems to crave fruitiness and bubbles this time of year.

Light flavors and textures make this menu perfect for a summer lunch or dinner. For best results, dine outdoors!

Shrimp & Avocado Canapés
Roasted Asparagus with Tarragon Butter Sauce
Festive Fennel Salad
Silky Spring Beet Soup
Olive Oil Poached Sablefish with Citrus & Thyme
Fig Tart with Vanilla Crème Patissière

PAIRING NOTES

When it gets warm out, our palates naturally turn to white and sparkling wines for refreshment. With this particular menu, we recommend serving a less expensive Prosecco or Cava, as they are lighter and fruiter (less yeasty), and pair with a wider range of foods. We also see no need to serve expensive sparkling wines (i.e. Champagne), especially if you plan to invite a large group of people. Keep it simple!

MISE EN PLACE

For those curious about the meaning of mise en place, it is a French culinary term for “set in place.” If you have ever watched a cooking show, or been inside a restaurant kitchen, you will notice that next to the cooking area, things are set up just so. Ingredients, sauces and critical elements are ready to be used, whether pre-cooked, pre-chopped, or ready as a garnish. This kind of organized setup enables a cook to focus on the actual act of cooking itself without distraction. Our intention with this section is to use the same approach at home, enabling you to host your own special occasions with flair.

Discover sensations that are familiar yet surprising, with flavors of coffee and orange blossom juxtaposed with cucumber. These meld with the legendary Polish Zubrowka (bison grass) vodka as a sensual base, with a touch of partially ripened banana for a light tartness.

1 serving

Ingredients

1 ounce of Zubrowka Polish bison grass vodka
½ ounce of Kahlua coffee liqueur
½ ounce of orange blossom water
2 tablespoons seedless sliced cucumber, peeled (recommended: organic)
1 tablespoon of banana (just starting to ripen)

Total: about 2 ½ ounces per serving (guide for glassware)

Cucumber and orange peel for garnish

Equipment

Glass half of the Boston shaker
3-piece Cobbler shaker
Utility knife and chopping board
Small bowl and fork for banana (preferably garlic press or potato ricer)
Muddler (preferably stainless steel and plastic)
Fine strainer or tea bag
Shot glassware (2 ½ ounces), for service

Preparation

Chill the glassware and spirits until ready for use.

Prepare the cucumber and banana:
Cut the cucumber into about 5 thin slices and dice finely. Mash small portions of the peeled banana into a small bowl. Measure the required amounts into the glass half of the Boston shaker.

Add a splash of the Zubrowka. With the flat side of the muddler placed into the base, apply downward pressure using the inside of your palm. Muddle until most of the solid ingredients are well broken up, add the remainder of the spirits and ingredients, and filter through the fine strainer into the 3-piece cobbler shaker.

Make the cocktail:
Top up the Cobbler shaker (about ¾ full) with ice cubes. Attach the top half with the built-in strainer, followed by the cap/lid (sequence prevents too much trapped air inside). Shake and chill the cocktail shaker with firm, concise and vigorous strokes until your hands can’t take the cold.

Strain into the shot glass. Garnish with the cucumber and orange peels.

[Mixologist’s notes: 1 ounce is equivalent to 30 milliliter (ml), ½ ounce is equivalent to 15 milliliter (ml); 1 tablespoon is equivalent to 15 milliliter (ml).]

Serve immediately.

Photo and recipe by Damian Sim

INSPIRATION FOR SURREAL
BY DAMIAN SIM

The fragrant orange blossom (the state flower of Florida) proves an attractive anchor to this recipe design. It also symbolizes good fortune, a good start for the spring.

Refreshing cucumber was added to the orange blossom water to add a distinctive green note to the flavor of the cocktail. This was further enhanced by the choice of Zubrowka, the unique bison grass Polish vodka. This legendary spirit was thought to have aphrodisiac and virility strengthening properties; in fact, it was banned in America till the late 1970s.

Though resplendent with fragrance, the mouth-feel of the drink was still rather thin, thus bananas that were just beginning to ripen were selected, providing a good amount of texture to the recipe.

Having used some uncommon cocktail ingredients so far, I decided to complete the recipe design with something familiar, and what can be more familiar than coffee? Kahlua, arguably one of the world’s most popular liqueurs, provided the coffee dimension to the cocktail; the sugar content of this Mexican coffee liqueur also added more body to the drink.

This helped to create an intriguing combination that is the essence of this cocktail, with sensations that are familiar yet surprising.