Popovers are dramatic and impressive when brought to a table; as an added bonus, their crisped exterior and elegant pockets of dough and air on the inside make them an ideal platform for presenting cheese.  This batter is wonderful because it can be made as much as one day in advance, and then you simply bake and present.  With the holidays on the horizon, this is one recipe that you can literally tailor to suit your mood, occasion, and pantry contents.

Makes 12 popovers

Ingredients

2 cups all-purpose (unbleached) flour
½ teaspoon fleur de sel
½ teaspoon baking powder
¼ teaspoon freshly ground white, green and red peppercorns
Generous pinch (about 1 heaping teaspoon) finely chopped fresh herbs (If substituting dried herbs, use about ¼ teaspoon.  To release the aromatic qualities, rub the dried herbs between your fingers before adding to the mixture.)
2 cups milk, at room temperature
3 eggs, at room temperature
1 tablespoon butter, melted, plus additional for greasing popover pan (or use vegetable oil)
1 heaping tablespoon cheese chunks, cut into 1/8” dice (see variations below)

Preparation

Preheat the oven to 425° F (see Chef’s Note).  Brush a nonstick popover or large muffin pan with melted butter.  Place the pan in the oven while preheating.

In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, fleur de sel, pepper, baking powder, and herbs.  In a large bowl, beat the eggs with a whisk until pale and foamy, about 1 minute.  In a larger bowl, whisk together the milk and melted butter to combine. Combine the eggs with the milk and butter.

Pour the wet ingredients over the dry ingredients and gently whisk until combined.  Your batter should be the consistency of heavy cream.  Take care not to over-whisk when combining ingredients.  Allow to rest at room temperature for 20 minutes, or up to 1 hour.  Can be made ahead and refrigerated overnight.  Allow to come to room temperature before proceeding.

Pour the batter into the prepared and heated pan to within about 1/4 inch of the rim.  Drop the chopped cheese in the center of each filled cup.

Bake for 20 minutes at 425° F.  Make sure you do not open the oven door during this time or the steam will escape and you will lose the “pop” effect.  Reduce the temperature to 350° F and continue to bake until the popovers are brown, crusty and puffed, about 20 minutes more.

Remove from the oven and serve immediately, or let cool on wire racks and hold at room temperature for up to 4 hours.  When ready to serve, reheat in a 350° F oven for about 10 minutes.

[Chef’s Note: If your oven is accurate, you can push the heat to 450° F for the preheat and initial baking time.  The extra heat will help to create a super-crispy crust.  Watch the popovers carefully, though; the heat may need to be reduced at 15 minutes if your popovers are becoming too browned.  Again, an accurate oven is a must.]

Variations

Gruyère and Spinach: Use walnut oil to coat the muffin or popover pan.  Add 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh spinach leaves to the batter in place of herbs.  Drop 1 teaspoon of chunks of Gruyère into the center of each cup.

Gruyère and Marjoram: Add 1 heaping teaspoon chopped fresh marjoram to the batter in place of the herbs.  Drop 1 teaspoon of chunks of Gruyère in the center of each cup.

Camembert, Chervil and Warm Plum Compote: Add 1 heaping teaspoon chopped fresh chervil (or finely chopped parsley) to the batter in place of the herbs.  Drop 1 teaspoon of chunks of Camembert in the center of each cup.  While the popovers are baking, prepare the warm plum compote.

Warm Plum Compote:  Halve 3 ripe, black plums and pit.  Slice into wedges.  Place a medium sauté pan over medium heat and add 1 tablespoon butter.  Place plums into the heated sauté pan and add 1 tablespoon sugar.  Cook, while stirring occasionally, until the plums begin to soften and release some of their juices, about 3 minutes.  Add the juice of ½ orange (no more than ¼ cup) to the pan, and allow to simmer over medium heat until plums soften, and juices thicken.  Set aside to keep warm.

When the popovers come out of the oven, place in a warmed serving bowl, and slice the popover open.  Spoon 1 tablespoon of the plum compote into the center of the popover and serve immediately.

Cabrales (blue cheese) with Thyme and Red Onion: Add 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme leaves to the batter in place of the herbs.  In a small bowl combine ¼ cup red onion, chopped in a small dice, and about 2.5 ounces of chunks of Cabrales.  Drop about 1 teaspoon of the mixture into the center of each cup.

Cheddar and Dill: Add a scant teaspoon of fresh dill in place of the herbs.  Drop 1 teaspoon of chunks of Cheddar in the center of each cup.

Cheddar and Chives: Add a teaspoon of fresh chopped chives in place of the herbs.  Drop 1 teaspoon of chunks of Cheddar in the center of each cup.

Asiago and Thyme: Add a teaspoon of fresh chopped thyme leaves in place of the herbs.  Drop 1 teaspoon of chunks of Asiago in the center of each cup.

Brie and Rosemary with Honeyed Pears: Add ½ teaspoon of fresh chopped rosemary leaves in place of the herbs.  Drop 1 teaspoon of chunks of Brie (with bloomy rind) in the center of each cup.  While the popovers are baking, prepare the honeyed pears.

Honeyed Pears:  Peel and core 2 firm but ripe Bosc Pears, and chop into a 1/4” dice (to yield about 1 cup).  Melt 3 tablespoons of honey in a sauté pan over medium-high heat until the honey bubbles and begins to turn amber.  Add pears and one sprig of rosemary and sauté for about 2 minutes until the pears are well glazed.  Add 1 tablespoon aged balsamic vinegar and allow to cook for 1 additional minute.  Remove from heat and reserve until popovers are ready for service.

When the popovers come out of the oven, place in a warmed serving bowl, and slice the popover open.  Spoon 1 tablespoon of the honeyed pears into the center of the popover and serve immediately.

Manchego with Chives and Roasted Red Pepper: Add a teaspoon of fresh chopped chives and ½ teaspoon fennel seeds in place of the herbs.  Drain a small jar of roasted red peppers and place on paper towels to absorb excess liquid.  Coarsely chop.  Drop 1 teaspoon of chunks of Manchego cheese in the center of each cup along with ½ teaspoon of chopped roasted red peppers.  Serve with a drizzle of aged sherry vinegar.

Sweet Cheese with Lavender and Chocolate: Prepare the sweet cheese:  Combine 2 ounces of cream cheese and 4 ounces of mascarpone cheese (both at room temperature) in a bowl.  Add 2 to 3 tablespoons of confectioners’ sugar (to taste) and mix well to combine.  Set aside.  Coarsely chop 4 ounces of dark (semi-sweet or dark) chocolate and set aside.  When preparing the popover batter, omit the pepper and add ½ teaspoon sugar.  For the milk addition to the batter:  Add 1 teaspoon lavender to cold milk and warm gently (until you see bubbles just starting to appear around the rim of the pan).  Remove from the heat and allow to infuse for 10 minutes.  Strain the lavender from the milk and proceed with the recipe.  When you remove the heated popover tin from the oven, just before filling each cup with batter, sprinkle the inside of the cup with a generous pinch of sugar.  Add the batter.  Drop rounded teaspoons of the sweet cheese into each cup.  Bake as instructed.  When the popovers come out of the oven, place in a warmed serving bowl, and slice the popover open.  Spoon 1 teaspoon of the chopped chocolate into the center of the popover and serve immediately.

Recipe and photo by Donna Marie Desfor

Jennifer could not resist sharing her favorite bread recipe with us. Also known as New York Rye or Jewish Rye, the scent is so overwhelmingly mouthwatering that many eager noses have been burned just trying to get a whiff.

Yields 2 large loaves

Ingredients

1 ½ cups rye bread pieces (see Preparation)
3 cups Rye Sour (see below)
1 package dry yeast
1 Tbsp salt
2 Tbsp caraway seeds
4 cups bread or unbleached flour, approx.
1 egg, beaten, mixed with 1 Tbsp water

Preparation

Soak in water half a dozen crusty slices of a previously baked loaf of rye (store-bought is fine). Squeeze dry. Set aside 1 ½ cups for this recipe; the balance can be refrigerated or frozen for later use.

Using the plastic dough blade, place the bread pieces and the sour in your food processor work bowl. Pulse several times to make certain the two are thoroughly blended. Add the yeast, salt, and 1 Tbsp caraway seeds. Pulse, and leave for a minute or two for the yeast particles to dissolve.

Add the flour, ½ cup at a time (pulse quickly after each addition), until the batter becomes solid and is carried around the bowl by the force of the blade.

Keep the machine running and knead for 45 seconds. If the dough is too dense for your machine (this is likely for smaller mixers), turn it out onto a floured surface and proceed by hand.

Place the dough in a bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and leave at room temperature for 30 minutes.

Punch down the dough and turn out onto a floured work surface. Divide into 2 pieces and form either round loaves or long plump ones. Place the loaves on a baking sheet that has been dusted with cornmeal.

Cover the loaves with wax paper and put aside to rise for 30 minutes to proof three-quarters in volume (not the usual full proof of double in volume).

Preheat the oven to 450˚ (if using a convection oven, 400˚) 20 minutes before baking, and prepare 1 cup hot water to pour into a pan on the bottom shelf a few minutes before putting in the loaves. This will create the steam needed for a beautiful, crisp crust.

Cut the top of the loaves into a pattern with a razor blade or sharp knife. Try a tic-tac-toe design or diagonal cut across the top. Brush with the egg-water mixture. Sprinkle with remaining caraway seeds.

Place in the hot oven. Midway through baking, turn the loaves around so they brown evenly. The loaves will bake to a deep brown in about 40 minutes. Turn one loaf over and tap the bottom crust to determine if it is done. If it is not hard and crusty, return to the oven for 5 to 10 minutes.

Place on a metal rack to cool.

[Ed: Try not to burn your nose as you inhale the luscious scent.]

Rye Sour
Yields 8 cups

2 medium onions, coarsely chopped
4 cups rye flour, stone-ground preferred
3 1/2 cups hot water (120˚-130˚ degrees)
2 packages dry yeast
1 Tbsp caraway seeds
Length of cheesecloth

Tie the onion pieces into a bag made with the cheesecloth. Put aside.

In a large bowl measure the rye flour and water. Stir to mix. Sprinkle on the yeast and work it into the rye mixture. Add the caraway seeds.

When the mixture is thoroughly blended, push the onions down into the center of the sour. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and put aside overnight (no more than 24 hours). Do not refrigerate.

Lift out the onions, scrape the sour off the cloth, and discard the onions.

The sour can now be used as part of the sponge in all sour rye breads, or refrigerated for later use. (May be kept alive in the refrigerator for several weeks with occasional stirring and feeding.)

Recipes adapted from Bernard Clayton’s New Complete Book of Breads. Copyright © 1995 Bernard Clayton, Jr.  Tested for The Gilded Fork™ by Donna Marie Zotter. Photo by Donna Marie Zotter.

Originally published March 2005, a time when Jennifer could still eat gluten

A simple dessert to warm you up on chilly nights, there is no better way to celebrate the comforting flavors of fall than with this bread pudding. Sweet caramelized apples and toasted bread cubes sing in a warm cinnamon-laced custard. The cider caramel sauce itself is divine, but particularly so when generously poured over the voluptuous pudding.

Find this recipe in our Gilded Fork Cookbook!

Serves 8-10

Ingredients

For the bread pudding:
4 apples (Braeburn, Gala, Fuji or Empire recommended), peeled, cored and coarsely chopped
1/4 cup butter
1/2 vanilla bean, split and seeds scraped
pinch of salt
1/3 cup light brown sugar, firmly packed

1 loaf of Brioche or Challah bread, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 1/2 cups milk
1 1/2 cups heavy cream
1/2 vanilla bean (optional)
1 teaspoon vanilla (increase to 1 tablespoon if omitting the vanilla bean)
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
1 cup sugar
1/2 cup light brown sugar
4 whole eggs
3 egg yolks
1 cup pecans or walnuts, toasted

For the cider caramel sauce:
1 cup apple cider
3/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup light corn syrup
1/4 cup water
1/4 teaspoon lemon juice
3/4 cup heavy cream, warmed
4 tablespoons (1/4 cup) butter, room temperature
1/2 teaspoon salt

Equipment

8×8 baking dish
Large saucepan
Non-stick baking spray
Pastry brush
Rubber spatula
Tall non-reactive metal pot
Whisk
Wooden spoon

Preparation

For the bread pudding:
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Toast the bread cubes in the oven until they are crispy, but not burnt, about 10-15 minutes. Place in a large bowl and set aside.

Melt the butter over medium-high heat in a large saucepan. Add the vanilla bean, brown sugar and salt, stir until the sugar is dissolved and then add the apples. Sauté the apples until caramelized and the sugar becomes a thick syrup consistency. Set aside to cool.

Combine the heavy cream, milk, vanilla and salt in a medium saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, mix together the eggs, yolks and sugar. Remove the milk from the heat and slowly temper the eggs with the hot milk, whisking as you combine the two. Whisk in the cinnamon and nutmeg and remove the vanilla bean. Pour the liquid over the bread cubes in a large bowl; add the caramelized apples, walnuts or pecans and mix to combine. Let sit for about 1 hour to completely soak all of the bread with the liquid.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a baking dish with either non-stick baking spray or butter. Place the soaked bread cubes into the prepared baking dish and gently press to create and even layer on the top. Bake in the preheated oven until the custard is set and bread is puffed and golden brown on top, about 45 minutes.

For the cider caramel:
Place the apple cider in a small saucepan. Bring to a low boil over a medium flame and simmer until the liquid has reached a dense syrup-like consistency and has reduced to approximately 1/4 cup. Set aside to cool slightly.

Combine the sugar, corn syrup, water and lemon juice in a tall non-reactive metal saucepan. With one hand work these two ingredients together until it feels like wet sand. With a wooden spoon, stir the sugar constantly over low heat only until the sugar is completely dissolved. This step prevents the caramel from becoming grainy. Remove from heat and using either a pastry brush or your hand, clean the insides of the pan so that there are no stray granules of sugar on the sides. Do not stir.

Return the pot to the stove and bring to a boil over moderate heat. Cook, without stirring but swirling the pan occasionally, until a golden caramel color is reached. In a separate pan or in the microwave, heat the cream to slighlty warmer than room temperature. Remove the caramelized sugar from the heat and carefully whisk in the warmed cream. It will spatter and boil up, so it is best to stand back when adding the cream. Place back on the heat and whisk to remove any remaining lumps of sugar. Quickly pour into a clean glass or metal bowl to cool. Whisk in the butter, salt and reduced apple cider. Let cool to room temperature.

[Chef's Note: We use the "wet method", which when just enough water is added to sugar to make it a sandy texture, to make caramel in this recipe. During the boiling process, any excess liquid evaporates, causing the syrup to thicken, the sugar concentration to increase, and eventually the color to change from opaque to a rich, golden brown. This method takes longer than the "dry method", cooking sugar without the addition of water, but is easier to control and does not burn as easily.

When making caramel, there is always a danger of crystallization, which can give the finished caramel a grainy texture and cause it to cook unevenly. If the pan or spoon is not completely clean, if the syrup is stirred once it boils, or if the sugar is not properly dissolved, you are bound to get lumps of sugar that will agitate and crystallize in the caramel. However, this is easy to avoid by using a clean pot, adding a pinch of an acidic ingredient such as cream of tartar or lemon juice, and taking caution not to stir the sugar once it boils. Swirling the pan during cooking also helps to evenly distribute heat and color to the sugar without stirring.]

Service

Serve the bread pudding warm, drizzled with caramel sauce. Bread pudding is delicious eaten cold, too. For easier slicing, refrigerate the bread pudding for a few hours and then reheat before serving.

Variations

Bread pudding adapts well to improvisation. Try using a variety of breads, if available, and other flavorings such as grated lemon zest, cardamom or star anise. Pears and other fruits can also be substituted for the apples.

Recipe by Monica Glass
Photo by Andrea Meyers

Note: This recipe appears in our Gilded Fork: Entertaining at Home cookbook.

One of the most popular little French cakes, perfect financiers are also one of the most addictive. Beautiful in their simplicity, financiers are typically made from a combination of almonds, powdered sugar, flour, lightly whipped eggs and a generous quantity of melted butter, which the French have named Beurre Noisette. The butter is cooked until golden brown and acquires a wonderful nutty aroma. However, this recipe offers an intriguing twist on the classic, with rosemary infused butter and corn flour. With firm, crusty edges and a luscious rosemary-kissed almond interior, these tender cakes are irrestible.

Makes about 12 large or 24-36 miniature cakes

Ingredients

1/2 cup unsalted butter
2 large sprigs of rosemary, cut in half
1 1/3 cups powdered sugar, sifted
1/2 cup almond flour or finely ground blanched almonds
1/3 cup finely ground corn flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
4 large egg whites

Equipment

Financier baking molds
Handheld or electric stand mixer
Medium non-reactive metal saucepan
Pastry brush or non-stick baking spray for buttering molds
Piping bag
Rubber spatula
Whisk

Preparation

Preheat oven to 400 ° F. Grease the financier molds with melted butter or non-stick baking spray.

Place 1/2 cup butter and rosemary in a saucepan over medium-low heat. Once the butter has melted let it come to a boil; as it boils you will notice that a foam will appear on the surface. Continue to cook the butter, whisking every so often, until it looks clear and the milk solids have dropped to the bottom of the pan. At this point, the butter will begin to take on a nutty aroma as it turns a lovely brown color rather quickly. Whisk continuously to prevent the brown bits from sticking to the bottom of the pan, as these contain most of the flavor, until the desired dark brown color is achieved. Remove the pan from the heat and immediately strain to remove the rosemary. Set aside and let cool to room temperature before using.

[Chef's Note: If you omit the rosemary from this recipe, there is no need to strain the brown butter. Just transfer it into a new bowl to allow for faster cooling.]

In a large bowl, whisk together the corn flour, almond flour, powdered sugar and salt. Place the egg whites in a separate clean bowl and whisk until frothy and light. Fold the lightly beaten egg whites into the dry ingredients and mix until an even paste forms. Using a handheld beater or the whisk attachment of an electric stand mixer, gradually add the browned butter, mixing after each addition on medium speed until the butter is completely incorporated and the batter emulsified.

Transfer the batter to the prepared pans, filling them about 2/3 full. Bake in the preheated oven until the cakes are golden brown and begin to pull away from the edges of the pan, about 10 minutes for miniature molds and 15 minutes for larger cakes. Cool in the pan for about 5-10 minutes, and then serve warm.

Service

A dusting of powdered sugar on the warm cakes is an optional, and lovely, garnish. These are best when served warm from the oven, but will keep fresh for about 3 days when stored in an air-tight container. If they aren’t devoured immediately, that is.

Variations

Cake flour can be substituted for the corn flour; and another nut flour, such as hazelnut, can be substituted for the almond flour. Press a raspberry or blackberry into the center of each mold for a fruity twist. Also try infusing other herbs, spices or vanilla beans in place of the rosemary when making the Beurre Noisette.

Recipe and photo by Monica Glass

Using a popover recipe for a base, we created these dense and savory bread-like bites quite by accident.  Our Test Kitchen was experimenting with ingredient combinations and different types of pans in the hopes of discovering a luscious food platform from which to present cheese.  The mini-muffin pan worked like a charm for this recipe, and yields the perfect finger food for a breakfast, brunch buffet, tea service, or hot hors d’oeuvres.  By dropping chunks of cheese into the batter and allowing it to melt into the batter as it rises, you get subtle but delicious flavor throughout the muffin.

By all means, don’t feel limited by the recipe recommendation with Roquefort cheese; use our handy guide contained in the Savory Cheese Popover recipe for ideas and inspiration.

Makes 1 dozen mini-muffins

Ingredients

1 cup all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon baking powder
¼ teaspoon freshly ground white, green, and red peppercorns
Generous pinch (about 1 heaping teaspoon) finely chopped fresh herbs (If substituting dried herbs use about ¼ teaspoon.  To release the aromatic qualities, rub the dried herbs between your fingers before adding to the mixture.)
1 cup milk, at room temperature
3 eggs, at room temperature
1 tablespoon butter, melted, plus additional for greasing mini-muffin tins or a mini-popover pan
1 teaspoon chunks of Roquefort cheese, cut into 1/8” dice

Preparation

Preheat the oven to 450° F.  Brush a nonstick mini-muffin or mini-popover pan with melted butter.  Place in the oven while preheating.

[Chef’s Note:  Feel free to substitute vegetable oil for the butter to prepare the pans, even though you will most likely use a non-stick pan.  Conventional wisdom suggests that non-stick surfaces when exposed to high heat emit potentially harmful fumes, UNLESS there is something applied to the surface to absorb the heat — in this case, the fat.]

In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, salt, pepper, and herbs.  In a large bowl, beat the eggs with a whisk until pale and foamy, about 1 minute.  In a larger bowl, whisk together the milk and melted butter to combine. Combine the eggs with the milk and butter.

Pour the wet ingredients over the dry ingredients and gently whisk together until just combined.  Your batter will be thick and heavy.  Allow to rest at room temperature for 20 minutes, or up to 1 hour.  Can be made ahead and refrigerated overnight.  Allow to come to room temperature before proceeding.

Pour the batter into the prepared and heated pan to within about ¼ inch of the rim.  Place the chopped cheese in the center of each filled cup.

Bake for 20 minutes at 450° F.  Make sure you do not open the oven door during this time or the steam collecting inside the pan and batter will escape and you will lose the “pop” effect.  Reduce the temperature to 350° F and continue to bake until the mini-popovers are brown, crusty and puffed, about 15-20 minutes more.

Remove from the oven and serve immediately, or let cool on wire racks and hold at room temperature for up to 4 hours.  When ready to serve, reheat in a 350° F oven for about 10 minutes.

Recipe and photo by Donna Marie Zotter

Cranberries are a sweet but assertive fruity complement to this moist, yet crumbly golden cornbread. This recipe is a tasty twist to traditional cornbread, combining the best qualities of cranberry sauce and cornbread. It will surely make for an attractive addition to your holiday table!

Serves 8-10

Ingredients

For the topping:
12 ounces (1 bag) fresh cranberries
2 teaspoons lemon juice
1 teaspoon lemon zest
1/4 cup sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla

For the cornbread:
1 1/4 cups flour
3/4 cup cornmeal
1/3 cup sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup unsalted butter, melted
2 eggs
1 1/2 cups buttermilk

Equipment

8-cup baking pan (8×8 or 9×9 inch pans, 9×5 loaf pan or 10 miniature loaf pans)
Parchment paper

Preparation

Prepare the topping:
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Grease the pan using butter or non-stick cooking spray, cut a piece of parchment paper to fit the bottom of the pan, and grease the pan again.

Combine all ingredients in a small bowl and toss well to evenly distribute. Spread the cranberry mixture in the pan over the parchment paper. Set aside.

Prepare the cornbread:
In a large bowl, combine the flour, cornmeal, sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Whisk together the butter, eggs and buttermilk and another bowl, and then add to the flour mixture. Stir until just combined.

Pour the batter over the cranberries in the pan. Lightly tap the pan against the counter to smooth the top. Bake in the preheated oven until golden or a toothpick or tester comes out clean, about 25 minutes depending on the pan size. Cool slightly for 5-10 minutes, invert and remove parchment paper.

Service

The cornbread can immediately be served warm, but is also delicious when eaten a day or two later at room temperature.

Variations

The best thing about cornbread is that it is so versatile. Everything from savory bacon bits and cheese to sweet blueberries and honey make a terrific addition. Mix cranberries into the batter rather than use as an attractive topping, or bake in a cast-iron skillet to mimic the traditional Southern method.

Recipe and photo by Monica Glass

This savory little quick bread is a delicious re-do of the ubiquitous zucchini bread. This time of year those little green squash seem to be everywhere, so this is a great way to put them to use! If you have a food processor with a shredder disk, you can use it to shred the zucchini and sweet potato. Serve this as a snack cake, or toast individual slices and serve it as a savory side to an Autumn Harvest salad.

Makes one large loaf, 4 small loaves, or 12 muffins

Ingredients

2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon baking soda
¼ teaspoon baking powder
¼ teaspoon salt
¾ cups sugar
¼ cup brown sugar, packed
¼ cup vegetable oil
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
3 eggs
1¼ cups grated zucchini
1¾ cups peeled sweet potato, grated

Preparation

Preheat oven to 350° F.

Prepare a loaf pan or muffin tin(s) by greasing the pan with pure vegetable oil and dusting lightly with flour.

Sift the dry ingredients into a medium bowl.  In a large bowl, combine sugars, oil, and vanilla.  Add the eggs and using a hand mixer, beat for about 1 minute until fluffy.  Mix in zucchini and sweet potato.  Add the dry ingredients to the zucchini mixture.  Stir just until combined.  Pour batter into prepared loaf pan.

Bake for 45 minutes to 1 hour (depending on the size loaf pan or muffin tin you use).  The bread will be done when a cake tester (or knife) inserted into the middle of the bread comes out clean.  Cool bread in pan on rack for 15 minutes.  Run a thin, sharp knife between the loaf and the pan to loosen.  Turn the bread out onto a rack and cool completely.

Serve when cool.

Recipe and photo by Donna Marie Desfor

The sweet aroma of sweet lavender fills the kitchen with a wonderfully relaxing aroma while the biscotti are baking.  These crunchy, nutty cookies will delight your sense of smell as well as your taste buds!  Perfect for dunking in your favorite coffee or tea.

About 4 dozen cookies

Ingredients

1 cup sugar
½ cup butter, softened
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon almond extract
4 medium eggs
3 cups all-purpose flour
1½ teaspoons baking power
½ teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons dried sweet lavender buds, finely ground
½ cup sliced almonds

Equipment

Measuring cups and spoons
Wire whisk
Hand blender
Large and medium bowl
Spatula
Cookie sheet
Parchment paper
Serrated bread knife
Cutting board
Wire cooling rack

Preparation

In a large bowl cream together, sugar, and butter until smooth and creamy. Mix in extracts and eggs and blend until combined. In a medium bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, salt, lavender and sliced almonds and mix with a wire whisk to blend well. Stir into sugar mixture and mix just until combined. Do not overmix or cookies will become tough.

Preheat oven to 350°F. Adjust oven rack to middle position. Halve dough and turn each portion onto the cookie sheet. The dough will be sticky. This is ok. Just rub a bit of vegetable oil or butter onto your hands to make it easier to handle. Without handling the dough excessively, pat the dough into two 13 x 2-inch logs and place them 3 inches apart. Pat and smooth each log. (The logs will not be perfectly round.)

Place in oven and bake for about 20 minutes or until lightly browned. Cool the loaves for about 10 – 15 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 300°F. After loaves cool, place on cutting board and cut diagonally into ½-inch slices with a serrated knife. Lay the slices about ½ an inch apart on the cookie sheet, cut side up, and return them to the oven for 8 minutes. Turn each slice over, return to the oven and bake another 7 minutes or until golden. Transfer to wire rack and cool completely. Store biscotti in an airtight container for about a month.

Service

Biscotti can be served with your favorite cup of coffee or tea.
Recipe and photo by Lia Soscia

Maria Elena Bustamante-Bernal talks about the philosophy behind The Treehouse Bakery & Cafe, an organic, sustainable bakery and cafe in Santa Fe, NM. Located on the ground of Plants of the Southwest, Treehouse produces fresh pastries daily, and also creates wedding cakes, including gluten free cakes.

A production of The Culinary Media Network. www.culinarymedianetwork.com

These delicious treats are deceptively easy to make, and can be mixed a day ahead of time. Can I make it any easier for you? Step on into the kitchen with me for another quick holiday recipe.

Don’t forget – use code FPHOLIDAY in the Gilded Fork Boutique for 10% off your order! (https://shop.gildedfork.com/)

Sponsors:

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Music:
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Food Philosophy is a production of the Culinary Media Network (http://www.culinarymedianetwork.com/).

You may know us for our more refined recipes, but we love pizza here as well!  There’s a reason it’s the most popular food in America.  However, we have to put our own imprint on every recipe, so this sweet and savory pizza will satisfy your craving for a spicy, licorice flavor.  The honeyed apples stay crisp enough to give the pizza some texure, while the ooey-gooey melted cheese blends with the anise seeds to satisfy.

Yields 1 12-inch or 2 8-inch pizzas

Ingredients

For the crust:
½ cup warm water (105 F to 115 F)
½ cup warm milk
1 teaspoon honey
1 envelope dry yeast
2 ½ cups bread flour
1 ½ teaspoons olive oil
1 ½ teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon anise seeds, slightly crushed

Olive oil for greasing bowl
A few teaspoons cornmeal for sprinkling on the pizza stone or baking dish

For the topping:
2 Granny Smith apples, cored, quartered and thinly sliced
2 Tablespoons olive oil
2 shallots, thinly sliced
2 teaspoons anise seeds, divided
¼ cup walnuts, chopped
¼ cup honey
1 cup Gruyère, shredded
A pinch of salt
A pinch of pepper
Honey for drizzling

Equipment

Kitchen stand mixer
Pizza stone or large round baking sheet
Pizza cutter

Preparation

Prepare the crust:
Combine the warm water, milk and honey in a small bowl. Sprinkle the yeast over the liquid; let stand until the yeast dissolves and the liquid begins to appear foamy, about 8-10 minutes. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a dough hook, combine the flour, salt and anise seed. Add the oil and yeast mixture, and mix on low speed until incorporated. Increase the speed to medium and continue to mix, kneading the dough until smooth and it pulls away from the sides of the bowl, about 5 minutes.

Turn the dough out onto a clean work surface, and knead by hand until smooth and firm, about 2 to 3 minutes. Grease a medium bowl with the extra olive oil. Transfer the dough to the bowl, turning to coat in the oil, and cover with a clean, damp kitchen towel. Place bowl in a warm spot, and let rise until doubled in volume, about 1 ½ hours.

Chill the dough in the refrigerator for several hours or up to two days.

Prepare the pizza:
Preheat the oven to 450 F.

Remove the dough from the refrigerator about 20 minutes before you are ready to bake. Punch the dough down and lightly form the dough into a ball again and then stretch it out, first, by holding it vertically by one edge and turning it in your hands. Sprinkle some cornmeal evenly over the pizza stone or baking sheet, lay the dough on top and then work the dough into a rough circle, starting by pressing from the center. Be careful not to tear or poke holes in the dough. If the dough springs back, let it rest for a few minutes, then continue to stretch it out to about 1/3 to ½ inch thick. Cover the dough with a damp towel and let rest for 15 to 20 minutes while you prepare the topping ingredients.

Pour the honey into a large bowl and toss with the apples.

Spread the 2 Tablespoons of olive oil over the surface of the pizza crust, then sprinkle with salt and pepper, 1 teaspoon of the anise seeds, and scatter the shallot slices and half of the walnuts on top. Bake for about 5 minutes in the preheated oven. Remove pizza from the oven after 5 minutes and sprinkle ½ cup of the cheese over the shallots; neatly arrange the apple mixture on top of the cheese, layering the apples starting from the outer edge working inward in a circular fashion, then finish by topping with the rest of the cheese, walnuts, and 1 teaspoon anise seeds. Return to the oven, and bake another 10-12 minutes, until the crust starts to brown and the cheese is melted and bubbly.

[Chef’s Note: Keeping the dough in the refrigerator overnight is only an optional step. You can make the pizza after the first rising, but we prefer to let the dough mature in the refrigerator, ripening and relaxing the gluten to obtain the perfect chewy yet crispy crust. The dough also becomes less sticky, easier to stretch, and usually has a better flavor after refrigeration, too. Feel free to substitute store-bought fresh pizza dough if you lack the time to make your own.]

Service

To serve, let the pizza rest for 5 minutes after removing from the oven. If using a pizza stone, slide the pizza onto a cookie sheet or transfer it with spatulas to a cutting board. Cut into even wedge-shaped slices with a pizza wheel, drizzle with extra honey and serve immediately.

Recipe and photo by Monica Glass

The rich, smooth taste of the mascarpone blends delightfully  with the tangy kalamata olives and thyme creating a deliciously creamy combination to savor.  This focaccia recipe is highly adaptable, and can be flavored with any herb, fresh or dried.  We have included other mascarpone spread variations below.

8 servings

Ingredients

For the dough:
1 cup water
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves
¼ cup olive oil
3 cups all-purpose flour
1½ teaspoons yeast
2 tablespoons olive oil
Kosher salt, to taste

For the topping:
1 cup mascarpone cheese
4 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves, minced
1 clove garlic, minced
¼ cup kalamata olives, chopped
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon sea salt

Preparation

Prepare the dough:
Sprinkle yeast over warm water in mixing bowl; stir until dissolved. Add salt, sugar, thyme, oil and half the flour. Beat with a wooden spoon until smooth, about 2 minutes.

Gradually add remaining flour, mixing with your hands until the dough is stiff enough to leave the side of the bowl. Turn dough out onto a lightly floured board. Cover with a bowl; let rest 10 minutes. Knead 8 to 10 minutes, or until smooth and elastic.

[Chef’s Note: If you have a stand mixer, follow the same instructions as above, adding your ingredients directly to the mixing bowl, and using the dough hook for mixing and kneading.]

Place dough in a lightly greased medium bowl; turn dough so greased side is facing up. Cover with a clean towel and let rise in a warm place (85°F) free from drafts, until double in bulk, about 1 hour.

[Chef’s Note: A good place to let the dough rise is in the oven with the heat off. Preheat the oven at 250°F for about 5 minutes and turn off.]

When two fingers poked into the dough leave indentations, rising is sufficient. Knead dough 3 to 5 minutes.

Shape the focaccia:
Preheat oven to 450° F. Grease a jellyroll pan with olive oil or spray it with cooking spray. After dough has risen once, roll or hand stretch the dough into a rectangle so that it will completely cover the bottom of the pan. Cover the pan with a towel and let the dough rise a second time in a warm place for about 30 minutes. While the dough is rising, prepare the topping.

Prepare the mascarpone topping:
Mix together mascarpone, fresh chopped thyme, garlic, kalamata olives, black pepper and sea salt. Mix to blend well. Cover and set aside in refrigerator until serving.

After dough has risen, prick several times with a fork and brush with 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Sprinkle with salt. Bake in the preheated oven for 10 minutes or until light golden brown. Let cool.

[Chef’s Note: This focaccia and toppings can be prepared ahead of time and plated just before serving.]

Service

When ready to serve, cut focaccia into 8 squares. Spread mascarpone mixture over top and garnish with additional thyme leaves and chopped olives.

Variations
The focaccia serves as a lovely base for many flavor combinations, so don’t be afraid to experiment. In addition to the variations below, you may also try mixing the mascarpone with smoked trout, or replacing the thyme in the recipe with rosemary and topping it with prosciutto.

Dill and Smoked Salmon

1 cup mascarpone cheese
4 tablespoons fresh dill, chopped
1 tablespoon red onion, minced
1 teaspoon sea salt
8 ounces smoked salmon slices
3 tablespoons capers, drained

Mix together mascarpone, fresh chopped dill, red onion and sea salt. Blend well. Cover and set aside in refrigerator until service.

For service, cut focaccia into squares and spread with the mascarpone mixture. Top with capers and a slice of smoked salmon.

Sundried Tomato and Basil

1 cup mascarpone cheese
4 tablespoons sundried tomatoes in oil, chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
1 teaspoon sea salt
2 tablespoons fresh basil, chopped

Mix together mascarpone, chopped tomatoes, garlic, basil and sea salt. Blend well. Cover and set aside in refrigerator until service.

For service, cut focaccia into squares and spread with the mascarpone mixture.
Recipe and photos by Lia Soscia

Rosca Rey de Reyes, or Rosca de los Reyes, is eaten in México, Puerto Rico, and Portugal on Twelfth Night (January 6^th), celebrated in the Catholic religion as the day the Three Kings arrived in Bethlehem bearing gifts for Jesus of Nazareth. A tiny ceramic doll, coin, or bean may be hidden in the bread, and traditionally the person who finds it throws a party on Candlemass (February 2^nd), or is in charge of preparing the “Rosca” for the following year.

In this recipe we are using coffee to re-hydrate the dried fruits instead of the more commonly used port wine or dark rum, adding an innovative twist to the flavor combinations. Please note that this specialty bread involves a 2-day process, so be sure to set aside enough time for the steps involved.

Serves 8 to 10

Ingredients

For the lemon sugar:
3 tablespoons white sugar
3 tablespoons confectioners sugar
6 drops fresh lemon juice

For the coffee-infused fruit:
¼ cup sultanas (golden raisins) or dried mango, chopped
¼ cup candied orange peel, chopped
½ cup strong coffee (cold brew or espresso)

For the dough:
2 ¼ cups bread flour
1 teaspoon salt
½ cup warm water
1 envelope (2 ½ teaspoons) dry yeast
7 tablespoons butter, at room temperature
½ cup confectioners sugar
1 teaspoon grated orange peel
1 teaspoon grated lemon peel
3 eggs
¼ cup cashews, almonds, or walnuts

For the decoration:
1 egg beaten with 1 tablespoon of water
Lemon sugar (recipe follows)
Fresh figs, cut into quarters, or pineapple chunks
Candied orange or lemon peel

Optional decoration:
Mango, or pineapple marmalade (optional)
1 bean wrapped in wax paper (Portuguese tradition)
1 tiny ceramic doll (Mexican tradition)

Preparation

Day 1

Prepare the lemon sugar:
Combine the white and confectioners sugars in a bowl and mix well. Add lemon juice and combine with either a spoon or your fingers (the mixture should have a coarse texture). Put in a warm place to dry.

Prepare the coffee-infused fruit:
Place the sultanas (or mango) and the candied orange peel in a jar and add the coffee. Close with lid and allow to soak overnight in the refrigerator.

Day 2

Prepare the dough:
Sift the flour, confectioners sugar, and salt into a bowl and stir in the yeast. Make a well in the center. Over a low heat, gently melt the butter and water. Remove from the heat to cool. Add the orange and lemon peels, then add to the dry ingredients along with the eggs. Mix well.

Turn out the dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead for 10 minutes, until smooth and elastic. Put in a clean bowl, cover with cling film and leave in a warm place to rise for about 45 minutes, or until doubled in size.

[Chef’s Note: When you let the dough rise, be sure to keep it away from drafts, in an area that is about 75-80˚ F. You don’t want the dough to get too warm.]

On a lightly floured surface, knead the nuts and coffee-soaked fruit into the dough, working the dough until it becomes firm and elastic again. [If the dough is still sticky at this point, add a little bit of flour and knead some more!] Cover the dough with plastic wrap and let it rest while you prepare the cookie sheet.

Grease a large cookie sheet with melted butter or non-stick spray. Place the dough on the cookie sheet, and using your hands make a cylinder of approximately 2 feet in length. Form the dough into a circle and pinch the two ends together with your fingers. Cover and let rest in a warm place for 30-45 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 350˚ F approximately 5-10 minutes before the dough is finished rising.

When the bread is ready to go in the oven, brush the surface with the egg-water glaze and decorate with the lemon sugar, fresh figs (or pineapple), and candied orange or lemon peel.

To follow the Portuguese tradition (optional):
Place a bean wrapped in wax or parchment paper under the dough.

To follow the Mexican tradition (optional):
Place 1 tiny ceramic doll under the dough.

Bake for 20 minutes and check the color of the bread. If it is already golden brown in color, cover it with aluminum foil and bake for another 20 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool for 5 minutes. Brush with warm marmalade for a nice gloss.

Serve when completely cooled. If you decide to hide a surprise in the dough, be careful with your cutting (and eating)!

Recipe and photos by Melissa De Leon Douglass.

Use a good quality multigrain or sourdough bread for best results, and don’t hesitate to replace the vegetables and herbs with your favorites, as bread pudding is very forgiving.

Yields 8 – 10 servings

Ingredients

3 tbsp butter
3 medium leeks, mostly whites
½ tsp salt
8 garlic cloves, minced
1½ lb assorted mushrooms (button, shiitake, oyster, portabello), sliced
Cracked pepper
½ cup Madeira

Custard:
5 eggs
1 cup whipping cream
1 cup milk
½ tsp salt
½ tsp pepper

1 x 1 lb multigrain or sourdough loaf, cut into ¾” cubes
2 tbsp thyme leaves
2 tbsp minced sage
4 cups grated Gruyère cheese
Minced chives for garnish

Preparation

Heat 1 Tbsp butter in a large skillet and sauté the leeks and garlic with a pinch of salt until the leeks are soft. Set aside, then melt the remaining butter in the pan. Add all of the mushrooms, season with salt and pepper, cover and cook until the mushrooms have released their juices. Remove the lid and continue to cook until the mushrooms begin to sear. Deglaze with Madeira and let the liquid evaporate. Stir the mushrooms with leeks and set aside while you prepare the custard.

Beat the eggs in a large bowl. Whisk in the cream, milk, salt and pepper. Stir in the bread cubes, cover and let stand for 1 hour. Stir occasionally to ensure that all the bread soaks evenly. Stir in the herbs, mushroom-leek mixture and half of the grated cheese.

Heat the oven to 350° F. Butter a 9” x 13” baking dish and spoon the bread pudding mixture into the pan. Sprinkle with reserved cheese and bake until crusty and golden brown and set in the middle (about 45 minutes). Sprinkle with minced chives. Let stand for several minutes, cut into square and serve hot.

Adapted from Rebar Modern Food Cook Book © Copyright 2001 Audrey Alsterberg and Wanda Urbanowicz. Tested for The Gilded Fork™ by Donna Marie Zotter.

This wonderful fall recipe was crafted by cookbook author Susan Herrmann Loomis, who is well known for teaching cooking classes in her home in Normandy…“On Rue Tatin.” Its dense texture is perfect for serving with an aperitif before your guests sit down for dinner.

Yields 1 loaf; 10-12 appetizer servings or 4 smaller loaves

Ingredients

1 ½ cups unbleached, all purpose flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 mounded teaspoon fine sea salt
6 large eggs
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted and cooled
10 dried figs (about 8 ounces), coarsely chopped
A scant 2 cups Gruyere cheese, finely grated
½ cup hazelnuts, toasted and skinned
Mounded ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Preparation

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees F. Butter an 8 ½ x 4 ½ x 2 ½ loaf pan, or 4 small loaf pans. Line with buttered parchment paper, dust lightly with flour.

Sift the dry ingredients onto a piece of parchment paper.

In a large bowl or the bowl of an electric mixer, whisk the eggs until they are combined, then slowly whisk in the dry ingredients. Stir in the melted butter until it is thoroughly blended, then fold in the figs, cheese, hazelnuts and pepper, making sure they are well distributed throughout the batter.

Pour the batter into the prepared pan or pans and rap it sharply on a work surface to release any air bubbles. Bake in the center of the oven until the top of the bread is golden, and a sharp knife stuck in the center comes out clean.(40 to 45 minutes for a single loaf, 30 to 35 minutes for smaller loaves.)

Remove the bread from the oven and turn it out onto a wire cooling rack. After about 5 minutes, peel off the parchment paper. Let cool and serve.

[Chef's Note: To serve this bread as an aperitif, use the smaller loaf pan for baking.]

Copyright 2003 Susan Herrmann Loomis. Reprinted with permission. All rights reserved.

Recipe tested by Donna Zotter
Photo by Kelly Cline

This recipe makes a soft dough, which is easiest to knead with a heavy-duty electric mixer or in a food processor.

Yields 2 loaves

Ingredients

1½ cups lukewarm water (105° to 110°F)
1 package active dry yeast (2 ½ teaspoons)
2 Tbsp medium-to strong-flavored honey
1 Tbsp coarsely chopped fresh lavender buds, or 1½ tsp coarsely chopped dried
1¼ tsp salt
3½ cups unbleached bread flour, plus additional as needed
1 cup coarsely chopped walnuts

Preparation

Prepare the dough:
Pour the water into the bowl of a heavy-duty electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Sprinkle the yeast over the water and let sit for several minutes to dissolve. Add the honey, lavender, salt, and flour and mix on low speed until all the ingredients are incorporated. Knead for about 6 minutes on medium speed. At this point the dough will be very soft and stick to the bottom of the bowl as you knead it, but it should pull away from the sides of the bowl. (If the dough is sticking to the sides of the bowl, add up to ¼ cup more flour, a little at a time).

To knead the dough in a food processor:Use a food processor fitted with a steel blade. Follow the same procedure as for the electric mixer but process for only 50 to 60 seconds.

Spread the walnuts on a work surface and turn the dough out on top of them. Sprinkle the dough lightly with flour and knead it briefly until the walnuts are evenly incorporated. If the dough sticks to the work surface, use a dough scraper to collect it. [Note: Do not add additional flour.]

Place the dough in a large mixing bowl and cover the plastic wrap and then a clean towel. Let rise at room temperature until doubled in bulk, about 1½ hours.

Shape the dough:
Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Dust with flour and pat the dough into a 10-inch square. Fold it in half, pat it out a little, then fold it in quarters and pat it again so that you end up with a 6-inch square of dough. Cut the dough in half with a sharp knife.

Dusting with flour as necessary, lift a piece of dough and stretch it out to a 12 x 4-inch oval. It should look like the sole of a very big shoe. Repeat with the other piece of dough.

Transfer the loaves to a parchment-lined baking sheet and dust again with flour. Cover the loaves with a clean towel and let rise at room temperature until doubled, about 45 minutes.

Bake the dough:
Preheat the oven to 375° F. Bake the loaves on the center oven rack until they are dark brown and sound hollow when thumped on the bottom, 30 to 35 minutes. Cool completely on a rack before slicing.

Recipe adapted from The Herbfarm Cookbook. Copyright © 2000 Jerry Traunfield. Tested for The Gilded Fork™ by Donna Marie Zotter.

These are an excellent accompaniment to hors d’oeuvres or cheese boards for your casual entertaining.

Yields 1 sheet pan of crackers

Ingredients

1 ½ cups unbleached bread flour
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon instant yeast
1 tablespoon honey
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1/3 to ½ cup water, at room temperature
Poppy seeds, sesame seeds, paprika, cumin seeds, caraway seeds, or kosher salt for topping

Preparation

In a mixing bowl, stir together the flour, salt, yeast, honey, oil and just enough water to bring everything together into a ball. You may not need the full ½ cup water, but be prepared to use it all if needed.

Sprinkle some flour on the counter and transfer the dough to the counter. Knead for about 10 minutes, or until the ingredients are evenly distributed. When a small piece of the dough is cut off and gently stretched and pulled, it should hold a paper-thin translucent membrane (commonly known as the windowpane test). The dough should be medium-firm, satiny to the touch, not tacky, and supple enough to stretch when pulled. Lightly oil a bowl and transfer the dough to the bowl, rolling it around to coat it with oil. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap.

Ferment at room temperature for 90 minutes, or until the dough doubles in size. (You can retard the dough overnight in the refrigerator immediately after kneading.)

Mist a work surface lightly with oil and transfer the dough to the work surface. Press the dough into a square with your hand and dust the top of the dough lightly with flour. Roll it out with a rolling pin into a paper-thin sheet about 15 inches by 12 inches. You may have to stop from time to time for the gluten to relax. If this becomes necessary, lift the dough from the counter and wave it a little, and then lay it back down. Cover it with a towel or plastic wrap while it relaxes.

When the dough is at the desired thinness, let it sit on the work surface to relax for 5 minutes. Line a sheet pan with baking parchment. Carefully lift the sheet of dough and lay it on the parchment, trimming any excess dough that overlaps the edge of the pan.

Preheat the oven to 350° F with the oven rack on the middle shelf. Mist the top of the dough with water and sprinkle a covering of seeds or spices on the dough. You can use all of one seed or spice or alternate rows of seeds and spices.

[Chef's Note: with spices, a little goes a long way, so use a deft hand and a gentle touch.]

If you want precut crackers, use a pizza cutter and cut diamonds or rectangles in the dough. You do not need to separate the pieces, they will snap apart after baking. If you want to make shards, bake the sheet of dough without cutting it first.

Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the crackers begin to brown evenly across the top (the time will depend on how thinly and evenly you rolled the dough).

When the crackers are baked, remove the pan from the oven and let them cool in the pan for about 10 minutes. You can then snap them apart or snap off shards and serve.

Variations

You can make a softer variation, used for making roll-up pinwheel sandwiches, by rolling the dough a little thicker than described and slightly underbaking the uncut sheet, so that the cracker is stiff but not crackly crisp. When ready to make the roll-up, mist the cracker with water and it will magically soften within 3 to 5 minutes and be as workable as a flour tortilla.

The dough also makes a nice pita bread. Simply roll out 6 ounce pieces of the finished dough into 8-inch diameter circles, slightly less than ¼ inch thick, and bake them in a 500° F oven on a baking stone or on a sheet pan. Bake just until they inflate and form a pocket. Count to 10, then remove the breads from the oven with a peel or a spatula before they brown and crisp. When they cool (and slowly deflate), they can be cut in half and used for pocket sandwiches.
Adapted from The Bread Baker’s Apprentice by Peter Reinhart. Copyright © 2001 Peter Reinhart. Tested for The Gilded Fork™ by Donna Marie Zotter.

Bread. The staff of life. It has captured my imagination for the past week, and I am happy to report that my loaves have been unexpectedly successful. I started out with simple wheat and white breads, but yesterday I turned artisan and made rye and pumpernickel. The rye is gorgeous — it tastes like a genuine, New York Jewish rye. And the smell…it has a sublime but subtle scent of onion that makes me swoon. I sent a loaf to my sister yesterday, fresh from the oven, and as luck would have it she had bought some corned beef that afternoon. I was a rock star.

I really made the rye for my brother Phil, a food connoisseur whose binges could put a pregnant woman to shame. He’ll get a craving for a certain taste, and either try to concoct it himself or ask me to find a recipe. He will not rest until the craving is completely satiated. He is actually very handy to have around, because his palate is one of the purest I’ve ever known. He can taste a dish and name the ingredients and spices without hesitation. At family meals, his is the palate I strive to appease.

Nonetheless, Phil was chagrined to discover that the starter for the rye (the “Rye Sour”) had to ferment for a couple of days. He allowed me to take my time, however, for to do otherwise would risk the taste. The first day of fermentation is spent with the sour soaking up the scent and taste of onions that have been secured in cheesecloth and plummeted into the dough mixture. It is very much a living thing — as I sat reading other recipes I could hear it popping next to me, like a gooey creature ready to suck in whatever dared to draw near. I removed the onions on day two, and could have begun the bread at that point, but I wanted a pungent loaf. I let it sit for two more days, and the wait was well worth it. He hasn’t been by to taste it yet. He’d better hurry up.

The pumpernickel loaves were a bit more challenging. They were a pain the ass, really. After cooking the first portion on the stove, which is a heavy mixture of molasses, cornmeal, and other goodies, it is mixed with mashed potato, then the normal bread ingredients. One needs an abundance of patience and forearm strength, neither of which I claim to possess, as well as a willingness to scrub the countertop for 15 minutes after all is said and done. After all that work, the bread is very dense and not an ideal texture. Next time I’ll just buy it. But the rye…

On another note, tomorrow night is cooking class #2. Class #1 consisted mostly of familiarizing ourselves with the kitchen and practicing our dicing. I must say, my knife skills are truly an abomination. For the past week I have been practicing all kinds of cuts (luckily, with none on the fingers), and am getting faster. How I long to chop like a pro. Of course, we are using 12-inch knives, which I find more than difficult to use. My wrist and forearm are not of the length to accommodate such a saber, so I may buy my own 10-inch knife and take it with me. Oh, the joy of having limbs the size of a 6th-grader’s.

Some people (men in particular) get goose-pimply at the sound of revving engines or power tools. For me, the rush comes from seeing acres of stainless steel arranged like a gigantic playground. The school has an industrial-sized grinder/chopper (swoon) that can make the biggest meatloaf on earth, or can grate 5 lbs. of cheese in seconds flat. I was saddened to discover that we will not be using it for any of our coursework. I got over it when Chef Marc showed us the gigantic Hobart mixer. The bowl is so big, that baby could mix a bath for a small child. I am counting the seconds until I get to flip the switch. There are also myriads of cooking mechanisms (flame, steam, flat-top, convection and broiler-from-hell) as well as enough pots and utensils to satisfy the most particular cook. I can’t wait for tomorrow night’s class.

The family complaints are starting to pour in, however. Everyone has gained a few pounds in the last six weeks. I take that to be a good sign.

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