To chase away that nip in the air, try warming your insides with this hot, chocolaty treat. Although the terms are often used interchangeably, note that there is a difference between hot cocoa and hot chocolate: Hot cocoa is typically just water or milk and cocoa powder, while, made from chocolate bars melted into cream, hot chocolate is a rich and decadent drink. Here is an intoxicating twist on our favorite winter warmer; flavored with two varieties of chestnuts and triple chocolate, this is a creamy, cozy sip — the kind of food you can cuddle up to (and we suspect that few adults would object to sneaking in a splash of brandy or cognac.)

Serves 4-6

Ingredients

For the hot chocolate:
3 cups milk
1 cup heavy cream or half-and-half
4 peeled chestnuts (fresh, canned or frozen may be used)
zest of 1/2 orange
1/2 vanilla bean, split and seeds scraped
4 ounces milk chocolate
2 ounces bittersweet chocolate
2 ounces unsweetened chocolate
1/4 cup sweetened chestnut cream
1/2 teaspoon salt
4 tablespoons brandy or cognac (optional), or to taste

For the chestnut whipped cream:
1 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons sweetened chestnut cream

Equipment

Handheld immersion blender
Handheld or standing electric mixer
Liquid measuring cup
Non-reactive metal saucepan
Rubber spatula
Whisk
Zester

Preparation

Prepare the hot chocolate:
Combine the milk, heavy cream, chestnuts, vanilla bean and orange zest in a heavy saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Remove from heat and let steep for about 15 minutes, until the chestnuts start breaking down and become softer.

Remove the vanilla bean, and using a handheld immersion blender, purée and then strain the mixture through a fine mesh sieve. Return the liquid to the saucepan and bring back to a simmer over medium heat.

Meanwhile, place the chocolates in a large bowl. Pour the boiled liquid over the chocolate, let sit for one minute, and whisk to combine. Add salt and whisk in the chestnut purée and brandy or cognac, if desired. Purée with a handheld blender for a smoother texture.

Prepare the chestnut whipped cream:
Whip 1 cup heavy cream until stiff peaks form. Whip 2 tablespoons sweetened chestnut purée in an electric mixture until light. Using a rubber spatula, fold the whipped cream into the chestnut purée in three additions until combined.

[Chef’s Note: If you do not have a handheld blender, let the mixture cool slightly and purée in a blender.]

Service

Serve the hot chocolate in mugs topped with a dollop of whipped cream. The hot chocolate can be made ahead, if desired. Cool completely and refrigerate. When ready to serve, heat it gently in a saucepan over low heat or in intervals in the microwave.

Variations

You can substitute all milk or all cream depending upon how rich and creamy you want the hot chocolate to be. Add a cinnamon stick or pinch of chipotle pepper to the simmering liquid for an adventurous surprise!

Recipe by Monica Glass

Since living in France and savoring the richness of “real” hot chocolate, I’ve found it a challenge to imbibe hot cocoa from a packet. Instead, I’ve taken to making it from scratch, and as an occasional indulgence it is well worth the effort. Without being overly rich or sweet, this version has the potent flavor of bittersweet chocolate, infused with the subtle perfumes of cardamom and cinnamon. The finish leaves a beautiful flavor memory on the palate.

Serves 2

Ingredients

2 cups milk
1 ounce bittersweet chocolate (we used Valrhona Caraibe)
1 cinnamon stick, crushed
4 cardamom pods, crushed
3 tablespoons sugar, to taste
Whipped cream (optional)
Cocoa powder for dusting (optional)

Preparation

Add all ingredients to a small saucepan and place over low flame. Whisk occasionally to incorporate the melting chocolate. Do not bring to a boil, or the milk will form a skin. When first bubbles begin to appear around the edge of the pan, remove from heat and strain into two warmed cups.

If a frothier hot chocolate is desired, whisk vigorously before straining.

[Chef’s Note: When crushing cardamom pods, cinnamon sticks, or any hard spices like peppercorns, I simply put them in a plastic baggie and give them a good smash with a cast iron frying pan. Once should do it if you have a good arm. If you’re having a bad day, go to town.]

Service

Top cocoa with whipped cream and dust with cocoa powder (optional).

Recipe by Jennifer Iannolo
Photo by Kelly Cline

This recipe was originally published in March 2005. An oldie but a goodie!

There is nothing more refreshing on a hot, sticky summer day than an ice cold beverage. Reminiscent of lemonade, but infused with fresh ginger and lemongrass, this succulently sweet and spicy cooler is perfect for all of your summer gatherings. Since we included no alcohol in the base recipe, this gingery fizz is the perfect pucker for all.

8 servings

Ingredients

For the ginger syrup:
3 cups of water
2 cups of sugar
6 inch piece of ginger, chopped

For the Fizzy Ginger:
Ginger syrup
1 Liter sparkling water, chilled
Juice of 3-4 lemons (depending on size)
8 thin slices of candied ginger (to garnish each glass)

Preparation

Prepare the ginger syrup:
Combine the water, sugar, and ginger in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium high heat, then reduce heat and simmer until sugar is dissolved, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, cover, and steep the mixture for 1 hour to allow the flavors to infuse the syrup. Strain the syrup into a pitcher, discarding the ginger. Chill, covered, until cold for at least 1 hour.

Prepare the Fizzy Ginger:
Add the sparkling water and lemon juice to the pitcher with the cooled syrup and stir well. Divide among tall, chilled glasses over ice cubes and garnish each drink with a slice of candied ginger.

[Chef’s Note: The syrup can be made a week ahead and chilled, but be sure to add the sparkling water just before serving or the drink will lose its fizz. Feel free to use the ginger syrup in other applications, too, as it is also a great base in which to toss fresh fruit. Also, add it to hot or iced teas for a summery kick.]

Variations

Add approximately 1½ cups (more or less to taste) of good quality gin or rum for a deliriously delicious adult libation.

There are many tasty variations that can work well in the Fizzy Ginger. Add 2 stalks of lemongrass (pounded and sliced to release flavor) at the same time as the ginger. Discard along with the ginger when straining. On the other hand, purée ¼ cup of strawberries (or other berries) in a blender with a few tablespoons of sugar, depending on the ripeness of the fruit. Add the purée to the bottom of a glass before adding the Fizzy Ginger. Stir to create a cool summer treat. Lastly, add two cardamom pods (pounded to release flavor) at the same time as the ginger into the syrup, discarding them when straining.

Recipe and photo by Monica Glass

After you taste the ethereal spiciness of homemade chai tea, you will be hard-pressed to purchase it in a store ever again. It only takes a few more minutes to make than “regular” tea, and it is worth every extra second. The wonderful thing about chai is that it is a mixture of spices you can custom tailor to your own tastes; use the quantities specified below as a guideline, and adjust them to suit your palate.

2 servings

Ingredients

1 cinnamon stick
¼ teaspoon pink peppercorns
¼ teaspoon white peppercorns
¼ teaspoon black peppercorns (see Chef’s Note)
6 cardamom pods
2 cups milk
3 teaspoons high-quality loose black tea (or 3 tea bags)
2-3 tablespoons honey, to taste

Preparation

Place cinnamon stick and spices in zip-top bag or plastic wrap and crush with kitchen mallet or cast-iron pan. Add spice mixture to small pan along with milk, tea, and honey. Heat on a very low flame until steam begins to rise from the surface of the milk, stirring occasionally. Allow to steam lightly for 10-15 minutes until heavy streams of steam are rising from the surface. (If your tea bags break that is OK.)

[Chef’s Note: It is important to note that ¼ teaspoon of black peppercorns will give this mixture a significant kick. If you want to tame the peppery taste, reduce the amount to 1/8 teaspoon.

You do not want to boil the milk in this recipe. The creation of flavor relies on a slow, gentle infusion whose fragrance will make you swoon during the cooking process. We promise. If you do see small bubbles forming around the edge of the pan, the milk is ready to boil, so if you have not yet cooked the mixture for a full 15 minutes, simply turn off the heat and let it sit for the additional time, then continue with the instructions below.]

Strain mixture through a colander lined with a paper towel. Press on the spices and tea with a spoon to extract all the fragrant liquids.

Pour tea into cups and serve immediately, or chill and serve cold.

[Chef’s Note: Though tea bags might be the easiest route to take in this recipe, we really do recommend purchasing a high-quality loose black tea such as Ceylon or Assam. Teabags contain stale, dusty leaves that have been sitting on shelves since the time of Methuselah himself, and their bland flavor can detract from such a lovely creation. The bags fall apart in this recipe anyway, and you have to strain everything, so why not give yourself the indulgence of some fragrant, recently-dried black leaves?

If you prefer decaffeinated tea leaves, they can also be used, but we recommend increasing the amount of tea by 1 teaspoon to make up for the loss in flavor.]

Recipe by Jennifer Iannolo

Since coming home from Switzerland, I find myself craving hot spiced wine whenever I come in from the cold. The soothing fragrance of the cinnamon and its mulling companions is like a cozy blanket for my chilled bones, and now that we’re in the thick of the holidays, I’m up for any reason at all to get that pot of wine on the stove!

There are many variations of mulled wine, from Glühwein in Switzerland and Germany to Glögg in Nordic countries and hõõgvein in Estonia. Whatever the name and combination of ingredients, this comfort-laden beverage is sure to be a hit for your holiday entertaining. I found some variations online and came up with my own potion, so I encourage you to use the recipes below as a starting point and experiment to suit your tastes.

Glühwein (this is what we sipped in Switzerland)
Glögg (this one’s interactive!)
Mulled wine (including historical information and oodles of variations)

I love to share sumptuous treats and a glass (or three) of something very special with my friends and loved ones for the holidays; if I’ve crafted the goodies myself, it elevates the experience for me. Such things are the very alchemy of love. I suppose that’s also why I’ve got dishpan hands from days of cooking, baking and candy-making, but I wouldn’t have it any other way.

Whatever holiday you celebrate — or if you don’t celebrate anything in particular, just celebrate celebrating! — I hope you’ll take the time to share a glass, a bite, and a toast with the ones you love. To those who celebrate my holiday, Merry Christmas, Buon natale, Joyeux Noël, Happy Christmas, and all the others I can’t pronounce or spell!

From my chaotic, love-filled house to yours, I wish you the happiest of holiday seasons.

This week’s Test Kitchen Note comes from our intrepid summer Culinary Intern Sandra Di Capua, (who is quite brave for sharing her story here):

As an aspiring chef at the age of, well, 15, I insisted on making everything on my own and from scratch. This included basics like salad dressing and more complicated things like challah (note to self: this was a cumbersome, tasteless brick.) One afternoon, inspired by my then favorite chef, Ming Tsai, I decided to make my own ginger ale. The slight problem I ran into was that I had only seen him do it once on TV and thought I might remember the recipe.

I found some gloomy-looking shredded ginger in the freezer and boiled the life out of it in a stockpot filled to the brim with water. It must have been on the stove for a good three hours because I distinctly remember going to play tennis for an hour, showering, having lunch, and then watching it boil for a long time. I guess I figured it would somehow taste just as good as Ming Tsai had made it look. By the end of this torturous time, I was left with half a stockpot of sallow gingery water. Sharp and spicy, it made me gag. To that ginger-infested water I added tonic (I assume that’s all we had at home, or perhaps I thought it could add a nice kick that might remedy my beverage) and a lot of sugar. I served it elegantly—ginger fibers, undissolved sugar, and all—in my parent’s finest crystal.

I’ve come a long way in five years. I still derive great pleasure from making dishes from scratch, but I’ve also learned to take some help when needed, including in the recipe department. The ginger ale that I currently make on lazy summer afternoons is incomparable to the pungent mess I made a few years back. Light and refreshing, it is a simple pleasure that reminds me of the culinary mistakes that have made my trajectory thus far both memorable and rewarding.

Thanks to Monica Glass, Gilded Fork’s resident Pastry Princess, for this simply perfect recipe:

Ginger Ale

3 cups of water
2 cups of sugar
6 inch piece of ginger, chopped
1 Liter sparkling water, chilled

Combine the water, sugar, and ginger in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium high heat, then reduce heat and simmer until sugar is dissolved, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, cover, and steep the mixture for 1 hour to allow the flavors to infuse the syrup. Strain the syrup into a pitcher, discarding the ginger. Cover and chill until cold, at least 1 hour. Add the sparkling water to a pitcher with the cooled syrup and stir well. Divide among tall, chilled glasses over ice cubes and garnish each drink as desired.

-Sandra Di Capua

This sweet treat can easily take the place of dessert at the end of a spicy meal, offering a refreshing finish for the palate.

Serves 4

Ingredients

Ground coffee (enough to brew 4 cups)
¼ teaspoon ground coriander
4 cardamom pods, crushed
Sugar, to taste
Heavy cream
Ice

Preparation

Mix the ground coriander and cardamom pods with ground coffee and brew 4 cups as you normally would, then allow to cool.  In each of 4 tall glasses, dissolve 1 or 2 teaspoons of sugar in a little of the cooled coffee.  Add several ice cubes and the rest of the coffee, leaving an inch or so at the top of each glass. Holding a spoon over the glass, rounded (bottom) side up, slowly pour the cream over the spoon and into the glass so it floats on top of the coffee.

Serve immediately.

[Chef’s Notes: When crushing cardamom pods, we suggest wrapping them in a piece of cling film or putting them in a zip-top baggie, then giving them a few good strikes on a wooden cutting board with a kitchen mallet, hammer, or cast—iron pan. This is also an excellent stress reliever.

For a lighter drink, you can substitute evaporated milk for the heavy cream; for a more authentically Southeast Asian taste, use sweetened condensed milk.  For a stronger drink, use double-strength espresso.]

Recipe by Mark Tafoya

This spicy after dinner drink has long been a favorite in traditional New Orleans restaurants.  It gets its name from the French for “burnt brandy.”  In New Orleans, it is usually prepared in an elaborate tableside  ritual, with the server pouring the flaming mixture through the citrus peel into the serving glass, which is often decorated with a picture of the devil, as another name for this drink is “café diabolique.”

Serves 2

Ingredients

¼ cup cognac
1 — 2 dashes triple sec
2 cups very strong, hot coffee
1 teaspoon lemon zest
1 teaspoon orange zest
2 cloves
1 cinnamon stick
1 tsp sugar
Whipped cream, to garnish (optional)

Preparation

Brew 2 cups of strong coffee and keep very hot.  Meanwhile, in a saucepan, mix the cognac, triple sec, citrus zests, cloves, cinnamon stick, and sugar. Gently heat the mixture on the stove to release the flavors of the spices and citrus zests, just until small bubbles appear at the edges. Do not bring to a boil.  Flambé the liqueur mixture, remove from the heat, and stir gently.

[Chef’s Note: The purpose of flambé is to quickly envelop a dish containing alcohol in flames, which burns off the alcohol and develops a richer flavor in the liqueur(s). It is important that the liquids in the pan be below the boiling point, so once small bubbles appear at the edge of the pan you are ready to flambé. Use a long match or grill lighter, and introduce the flame to the edge of the pan rather than the liquid itself. The vapors should ignite immediately. Once the alcohol has burned off, turn off the heat, stir gently, and serve.]

Service

Prepare the two cups of hot coffee.  Filter the cognac mixture through a cheesecloth or fine sieve, pour it over the coffee, and decorate with whipped cream and an additional lemon or orange twist, if desired.

Recipe by Chef Mark Tafoya

A drink popular in Eastern Africa, cardamom tea delivers the pure delight of cardamom without the infusion of other spice blends. Unlike the Chai preparation, Cardamom Tea begins first with Tea. Then the cardamom is added and sweetened to taste.

Makes one serving

Ingredients

1 cups cold water
1 Earl Grey Tea bag
scant 1/8 teaspoon ground cardamom
Lavender (or other floral) Honey, to taste
Milk, to taste

Preparation

In a sauce pan or tea kettle, heat water until just beginning to boil. Do not bring to a full boil. Transfer the water to small teapot, add the tea bag and allow to steep for 2 minutes.Pour the tea into a warmed cup and add cardamom. Add honey and milk to taste. Serve.

Recipe by Donna Marie Zotter