a test kitchen dossier

Ignacio: Just add cilantro.
Betty: I don’t think I have cilantro. Can I just add extra cheese?
-Ugly Betty, August 23, 2007

Etymology

From Coriandrum Sativum, Latin. Koriannon or korion, Greek. Kori is the Greek word for bug and can be related to a disdain of some for the taste and odor of the leaves. Wazendill in German means “bug’s dill”.

Description

One of the world’s most popular and widely used herbs, cilantro leaves are the leafy projections of coriander seeds. The leaves are green with scalloped edges and are quite thin and soft. Cilantro is a very lightweight herb allowing it to be coarsely chopped while still remaining pleasantly consumable.

Cilantro is known for its pungent, citrus smell which has spurred vehement opposition and repulsion since ancient times. This passionate debate has continued today; the web is riddled with “I hate cilantro” groups giving haters a forum to voice their disdain for the pervasive herb. There are several speculations for the utter repulsion of those who are passionate about their cilantro hating: their palates are super sensitive, there is a medical and evolutionary explanation for their perception of the chemicals in the herb that causes them to shy away from it such as they would a poison, or they have not given it a fair chance like any other food to which one must become accustomed. The modern debate over cilantro can get heated. We encourage the debate and recommend repeated experimentation.

History

Cilantro and its seeds, coriander, are native of the Middle East. Cilantro migrated very early on to Southeast Asia, China, and India. Latin America had a similar native herb, culantro, with very large, tough leaves that was later replaced by the cilantro that we know today. Widely rejected in Western Europe, cilantro leaves were all but avoided due to their perceived “soapy” taste. Cilantro is still rarely found in modern European cuisine. This perceived soapy taste is due to the unsaturated aldehyde, decenal, which can also be found in soaps and detergents and gives oranges their “waxy” note. Despite the herb’s reputation difficulties over the centuries, it remains a popular addition to many Asian, Indian, and Mexican dishes.

Uses

Fresh applications are the best use of cilantro. The leaves’ short lifespan when added to foods is a small perk that confirms freshness. Use in uncooked dishes such as guacamole or vinaigrettes, as heating causes it to lose flavor, aroma, and most importantly its attitude. It can also be added at the last minute to add a splash of color and a loud burst of flavor. Use cilantro sparingly as a little goes a long way to add life and depth to a dish. Cilantro oil can also be a bright and flavorful peppery addition to a soup or a visual contrast to a white plate or light colored food. Cilantro is available both fresh and dried. However, due to its fragile life once harvested, we would recommend using fresh leaves for the highest degree of flavor. Once dried, its piquant acidity is almost nonexistent.

Types

The cilantro used today is uniform across all cuisines unlike basil, for example. The nomenclature however can differ across languages and cultures as some refer to cilantro as “coriander” or “coriander leaves”.

Best Matches

Cilantro is a great accompaniment to fresh tomatoes, avocados, and fish. The citrus notes enhance the freshness of a dish and provide coolness to a spicy dish. Indian cuisine often combines the herbs cilantro and mint for a refreshing mix. Cilantro marries well with chili peppers, jalapeno, rice, carrots, coconut milk, chicken, white fish, lemon, and lime. It will complement cumin, chili powder, ginger, garlic, and tamarind.

Our approach

We would leverage cilantro’s loud qualities to add brightness to dishes where an acidic, citrus flavor is beneficial. Stretch the imagination when it comes to utilization. Use in place of basil where more pungent flavor is desired as in a fresh pesto. Turn up the volume in couscous or quinoa salads. Blend into marinades for lamb or salmon. Add liveliness to lemon butter or stuff into yellowtail sushi rolls for a surprising kick. Black beans provide a beautiful, dark backdrop for the bright green leaves. What is more beautiful than steaming buttery heirloom carrots topped with chopped cilantro? Picture a bright bowl of jicama, melon, and mango all dressed up with cilantro vinaigrette. The colors exhilarate our soul and arouse our plate. The taste makes sparks in our mouths. If you’re a cilantro hater, take a toe first, cautious approach. You never know, you could be sprinkling your fish tacos with the zesty herb in no time. We are in the “love cilantro camp” and we dig the attitude.

Recipes

Thai Red Curry Beef and Pumpkin
Chipotle Corn Chowder
Spicy Beef Salad
Shrimp Ceviche

Photo: Kalle Guinn

Dossier by Kalle Guinn and Madeline Shores

a test kitchen dossier

The trouble is, you cannot grow just one zucchini. Minutes after you plant a single seed, hundreds of zucchini will barge out of the ground and sprawl around the garden, menacing the other vegetables. At night, you will be able to hear the ground quake as more and more zucchinis erupt.
- Dave Barry

Foodstuff: Summer Squash

Etymology: From the Narragansett (a Native American Language) askutasquash which means “eaten raw” or “uncooked.”

Area of Origin: North America

Description
Squash aren’t ostentatious vegetables. They’re incredibly good for you, because they’re low in calories and high in vitamins. They are not rare or expensive. In fact, if you know anyone with a garden then you probably have more zucchini than you know what to do with at least once a year. Raw, sauteed, steamed, baked, fried, stuffed, braised or roasted, there’s really nothing you can’t do to squash. Unfortunately, one consequence of this versatility is that all sorts of culinary crimes are perpetrated against this tender, delicate, wallflower of a vegetable. Remember, just because it’s inexpensive and widely available doesn’t mean you should take it for granted. Give your squash a little attention, and they’ll have you swooning over the quality of their flavor and texture. While summer squash (which are picked before they fully mature) are available year round, high season is June through early October, so tell your favorite gardener to bring it on. With our delicious recipes to inspire you, you won’t be able to get enough of this nutritious indulgence.

History
Squash may seem like a straightforward vegetable, but it has a complicated history. Winter squash (squash picked after it has matured, so its skin has time to thicken and harden) probably originated in Central America around five thousand years ago. Summer squash probably originated in North America, and culinary historians know that they were a staple of Native American Cuisine. In fact, squash is one of the “three sisters,” the three agricultural staples of most Native American tribes: beans, maize and squash. When Europeans began to colonize North and Central America, squash was one of the unexpected (and undervalued) treasures they discovered. Many culinary historians believe that zucchini actually arose in Italy from a spontaneous mutation and was later brought back to the Americas by Italian immigrants. There are no records of zucchini being grown or eaten in the United States until the 1920s; today, zucchini plays a prominent role in Mexican cuisine. Squash in general was not widely eaten in Europe until the late nineteenth century. The food writer Elizabeth David is primarily responsible for introducing zucchini to the British.

Tips and Tricks
The seeds of zucchini and squash are mostly water, and provide very little flavor. When sauteing squash, slice it in half, scoop out the seeds with a melon baller and discard them. Then slice and saute. The resulting dish will be far more intense in flavor and pleasing in texture.

When selecting standard zucchini and yellow squash, smaller is better. The smaller the squash the more succulent it is likely to be. If they are small, you don’t need to scoop out the seeds. Also, button-sized disks of yellow and green squash make for a stunning presentation.

Don’t overcook! Squash should retain their vibrant colors and be a little toothsome. Of course, there are important exceptions to this rule, such as the traditional French dish ratatouille, in which squash should almost fall apart at the touch of a fork.

Varieties
There are countless seed varieties of summer squash, many of which go by multiple names depending on your location and source. While grocery stores offer limited variety, farmers markets often proffer a bounty of unusual and delicious types of squash. Ask farmers for suggestions on how to cook specific varieties. The following types are more widely available, though some are usually only sold at the height of squash season in most locations.

Zucchini
If you want the pure, unadulterated flavor of zucchini, smaller is definitely better. Look for firm flesh and vibrant skin that is free of bruises.

Round zucchini
These lovely little treats are a recent addition to the squash spectrum. Several varieties exist, though the most popular seem to be called “eight balls” — try serving squash soup in zucchini bowls! Round squash are excellent for stuffing, and this variety is perfectly portioned for individual servings.

Scalloped
These petite squash come in yellow, green and white varieties and are also called “pattypan” or “petit pan.” They look like disks with wavy edges. This variety is somewhat more decorative than useful, as it is difficult to preserve their attractive shape while cooking them.

Cocozelle
Similar to zucchini in appearance, this variety is generally large, about 12-16 inches long and 2-3 inches in diameter. Its skin is a pale greenish-white with stripes of slightly darker green. This variety is especially delicious roasted with lots of olive oil until it begins to caramelize.

Squash blossoms
Squash grow on flowering vines, and when they are picked young, the flower is often still attached. These lovely blossoms are edible and delicious, though they are usually too fuzzy to eat raw. Especially popular in Italy and France, squash blossoms can be stuffed, steamed, baked or deep fried. Steaming or baking best preserves the beauty of the blossom.

Recipes

Serafino’s Sofrito
Zucchini & Sweet Potato Bread
Calabacitas
Zucchini Relish

Sources
Vegetable Travelers
Eat The Seasons

Dossier by China Millman

a test kitchen dossier

Imagine a flower: A climbing orchid, to be exact; the one of some twenty thousand varieties that produces something edible…that its blooms must be pollinated either by hand or a small variety of Mexican bee, and that each bloom only opens for one day a year. Now imagine the fruit of this orchid, a pod, being picked and cured, sitting in the sun all day, sweating under blankets all night for months until, shrunken and shriveled, it develops a heady, exotic perfume and flavor. Now imagine that this fruit’s name is synonymous with dull, boring, and ordinary. How vanilla got this bad rap I for one will never know.
— Alton Brown

Foodstuff: Vanilla

Proper Name: Vanilla Planifolia (also vanilla pompona and vanilla tahitiensis)

Etymology
From Spanish vainilla, dimunitive form of vaina, meaning “sheath.” The western term is a permutation of the Latin vagina, also meaning sheath.

Area of Origin
Originally cultivated on Mexico’s Gulf Coast, vanilla is now grown throughout the tropics, particularly in Tahiti and Madagascar.

Description
Vanilla is one of the world’s most expensive spices due to its labor-intensive process of cultivation. The world’s only edible orchid, vanilla grows on the vine when the orchid is pollinated, producing a fruit (the vanilla bean). Herein lies the challenge, however: Since the orchids are unable to self-pollinate, they must rely on specific bees, hummingbirds with very long beaks, or the hands of man to do the job, and that is just the beginning of the beans’ lengthy journey to the pantry. Much additional labor must take place before vanilla can be used as a spice: After the beans mature for about nine months on the vine, they must be picked, dried, cured and prepared for consumption (Tahitian beans stay on the vine until they turn brown). Contrary to popular notions, the familiar, soothing scent of the beans develops only during the drying and curing process, as the beans release no scent during their time on the vine. Interestingly enough, soil and climate deeply affect the taste of vanilla beans, whose nuances of flavor could be compared to those of grapes grown for wine. The flavor in vanilla comes from vanillin, the primary component of planifolia, which comprises 25% of the bean’s flavor and fragrance profile.

History
Vanilla has been pleasing the senses for centuries. First grown in MesoAmerican cultures in Mexico, it was considered a gift from the gods. The Totonaca tribe, who likely first grew vanilla, spread their knowledge to other MesoAmerican peoples. In the early 1500s vanilla beans set sail for Spain, but at that time vanilla was appreciated for its perfume alone; the pleasures induced by its flavor weren’t discovered by the Europeans until after Cortes’s invasion in 1519. Mexico maintained a vanilla-growing monopoly for many centuries, but in the late 1800s production moved eastward. Currently Madagascar and India are the world’s biggest producers, and Guatemala, Costa Rica, Uganda, China, Fiji, Tahiti and the Philippines now grow vanilla crops.

The Mayan people included vanilla in their list of spices bestowed by the gods, and it was initially used as a currency as well as a spice. Vanilla also enjoys a long history as an aphrodisiac (Montezuma is said to have been a fan), and could be called the “Ancient Viagra” due to its stimulating effect on the senses. From the 1820s to the early Nineteenth Century apothecaries would craft tinctures of vanilla for men in need of further stimulation. Though the effect may have been a placebo, the Fragrance Foundation and the Smell and Taste Research Foundation have conducted studies on vanilla’s fragrance, and found that older men became aroused when inhaling the scent (young men were more partial to donuts). Interestingly enough, vanilla has also been proven to be a natural calmative when ingested and inhaled. Tahitian vanilla’s heliotropic properties are calming in particular.

Its intoxicating effect on the senses may also stem from our taste memories, in which the soothing reminders of freshly baked goodies and “home” evoke a secure sense of calm within us.

Types of Vanilla
Vanilla is available in whole beans, powder and extract. The bottled vanilla extract we’re familiar with is vanilla mixed with alcohol as a flavor carrier (most of the alcohol burns off during cooking). Note that extracts most often contain high fructose corn syrup and caramel coloring to mask the harsh nose of the alcohol, so we recommend using the real beans or extracts made with sugar cane alcohol.

The vanilla vine comes in over 150 varieties, but two are mainly used for cultivation: Bourbon (Mexican) and Tahitian. Bourbon beans are the most common; they are now grown primarily in Madagascar and are often called Madagascar vanilla beans. They have a thick, oily skin and a very rich scent, and are long and sleek. The flavor has been described as creamy and grassy, and very easy on the taste buds.

Tahitian vanilla is actually an entirely different species; it mutated long ago but comes from the same original Mexican bean stock. Tahitian vanilla beans are usually much shorter and fatter than Bourbon ones, with a thinner and oilier skin. The Tahitian vanilla flavor is more fruit-based and floral, and is one of the world’s most coveted. Tahitian beans are becoming rarer and rarer as their terrain is taken over by other crops, making them the most expensive variety of vanilla beans available. (Note: Tahitian Gold is a brand name rather than a variety).

Vanilla can also be purchased as a powder ground from the pods, or as a thicker paste. The powder has an intensely concentrated flavor and the paste is ideal when you don’t want to add much liquid to a dish.

Cooking With and Storing Vanilla
The best vanilla beans should smell very strong and be oily to the touch; avoid scentless, brittle or dry beans. Liquid extract should be stored in a cool and dark place (light can affect it) and can last for several years. Vanilla beans will keep indefinitely when stored in an airtight container in a cool, dark place. They are best kept dry to prevent the growth of mold, so do not refrigerate them. If you live in dryer climate, it is best to wrap the beans in wax paper before placing them into the airtight container. If your beans dry out, you can either rehydrate them in hot water or grind them into vanilla powder.

Then entire bean, pod included, is full of flavor and can be used; you can cut a piece off and use the rest of the bean later, or use the remnants from a recipe to create treats such as vanilla sugar (Test Kitchen Note coming on that!). To cut the bean open, hold it still and sever it lengthwise. You can then scoop out the seeds and use them if you don’t want the tougher pod to end up in the dish, or if infusing a liquid you can add the entire inside and outside of the bean.

Best Matches
Vanilla is most popular in the baking department, but also shines when used in savory combinations, particularly with seafood such as scallops and lobster. Vanilla is also a wonderful companion to citrus, chocolate and nutty flavors, and provides a subtle foundation when used in combination with other spices.

Our Approach
Given our propensity for seeking the sublime, we wanted to explore vanilla’s use in both sweet and savory. Our scallop and lobster dishes evoke a sensory overload (no, really), and in our sweet dishes we’ve gone beyond the typical cakes and cookies to place vanilla in the spotlight.

Recipes

Lobster Ravioli with Vanilla Butter Sauce
Vanilla Citrus Crème
Vanilla Sea Cocktail
Vanilla Vixen Cocktail
Vanilla Pancakes with Broiled Vanilla Plums
Vanilla Bean Vinaigrette
Molded Vanilla Cream with Berry Compote
Seared Scallops with Vanilla Champagne Crème
Fig Tart with Vanilla Crème Patissière

Resources
We offer very special thanks to Patricia Rain, the Vanilla Queen and founder of The Vanilla.COMpany, who provided most of the information for this dossier. Be sure to listen to Jennifer’s Food Philosophy interview with the Queen, who is well-deserving of her crown!

For further exploration, see The Vanilla Company’s web site, www.vanilla.com, which is chock full of information, including the following articles that we found fascinating:

Sex, Love and the Vanilla Bean

The Legend of Vanilla

by Donna Marie Desfor

For days I’ve been thinking about how to wax poetic on the multitude of berries that are everywhere: in the markets, in the grocery stores, at roadside stands, and even in your favorite restaurants.  I thought about lauding the natural vitamins, flavanoids, and beneficial antioxidants they offer.  I also considered discussing the color element of food and food pairings (trendy, but not really useful).  And at one point, I even became obsessed with creating that brand new summer berry dish that would have the gastronomes of the world in a fit of delight.  I was tormenting myself.  Soon enough, I came to the realization that berries — at their height of ripeness and season — need little more than a gentle nudge and a bit of a caress to lift their flavor and make them beg to be devoured. There is little more that needs to be said.

Berries, especially summer berries, are simple:  They are meant to be devoured — never savored.  The fact that they are available literally year round should raise a red flag of caution, however.  Availability shouldn’t mean they can carry a leading role in months other than summer.  When ripe (as opposed to fresh), a berry’s juice will literally stream over your tongue delivering a sweet or tart tang of flavor.  Nature knows what it is doing.  Perhaps that’s what ultimately brought me back around.  I embraced that natural intuitiveness and decided to strip away that epicurean ideal that any ingredient can be improved upon.

So with that purist intent, our Test Kitchen crew set out to create a multitude of recipes that, in essence, capture nature’s pure genius and its gift of summer flavor — flavor that is delivered in sweet, ripe juices that fill our mouths and splatter our lips, cheeks, and chins.

It was my Master Gardener friend and Sous Chef who coined the phrase “naked deliciousness.”  She was right, but as a gardener extraordinaire, she would know.  The blueberries and blackberries, the strawberries and raspberries that are at the roadside stands are meant to be purchased and consumed almost immediately.  Local berries — ones that aren’t grown or modified to withstand early picking and long-distance travel — are ideal.  They may not be perfectly round or evenly colored, but one bite and you’ll redefine sweet desire — and perhaps come to know what it has taken me years to understand:  that glorious imperfection can be nature’s way of pointing to extraordinary flavor.  And there’s only one way to know if they’re good:  taste them.  Yes, pick up a berry and taste it.  You’ll know.  You’ll reach for another.

Recipe: Berries with Citrus and Vanilla

Beyond the simplicity of natural sweetness, there are other flavor elements that marry so beautifully with summer berries:  floral notes, as in the Blueberry Lavender Syrup, and acidic notes that draw out the flavor of strawberries in the Aromatic Rice and Pearl Barley Salad.  That’s not to say that any berry can be combined with any other fruit, or wrapped into a dish and simply be delicious, just because it’s in season.  We tried and failed a number of times during our testing process. Berry sauces and glazes for main courses: A nice idea (we tried it) that rarely works (trust us on this one).  When it does, the berries have been worked so hard that they literally lose all of their natural appeal.  Why bother?

Recipe: Blueberry Lavender Syrup
Recipe: Aromatic Rice and Pearl Barley Salad

It is fun, though, researching what’s already been done for the ingredient of the month used at Gastronomic Meditations™.  It allows me to romp through my collection of cookbooks and visit with those who have tackled ingredients and tasted flavors ahead of me.  I find little that surprises me anymore.  It seems that in one form or another, it has been done — or at least attempted.  It is true that despite our rather straightforward use of the standard berries (blue, black, rasp and straw) there are other delights out there, like gooseberries and mulberries (although, growing up I had a mulberry bush in my back yard, and after two days of making mulberry jam, I am off mulberries forever).  There are the infamous jewels: cranberries and, of course, viticultural grapes — those luscious berries that are transformed into wine.  Though mainstream, I trust you’ll agree that there is nothing pedestrian about our approach here.

My research romp did uncover a recipe for Brandied Raspberries, which I encourage anyone with a craving for summer fruit (and a desire to encounter a hauntingly evocative palate experience) to try.  Alice Waters, in her Chez Panisse Fruit cookbook, captures and extends the essence of summer freshness in a gastronomically pleasing way — without freezing.  She combines sugar, cognac, and raspberries and allows the mixture to macerate for several days.  Once done, they go into the refrigerator, where she says the berries will last for a full year.  How convenient.  The berries get used in desserts, and the liquid gets incorporated into sauces.

Mine have been going for about a month.  I can safely say they will be long gone before next year.  My goal, right now, is to see if I can keep my hands off them until I get to the Holidays.  Or, I’ll make more.  With the abundance of raspberries waning here, now is certainly the time to act.

Alas, with a heavy sigh, we welcome the arrival of summer berries, and then watch them quickly fade from abundance.  They are, in their natural form, a pure flavor:  sweet.  As a pure flavor, you need little more than an acidic platform (lemon or citrus juices and zests, balsamic or other vinegars) to enable the flavor to come through, and when you add other natural flavor elements, like lavender or herbal elements, or natural sweeteners like vanilla or honey, the rest is just a garnish.  And if you really think about it, why would you spend more time on a berry’s garnish than on the berry itself?

Indulge.  Naked is good.  Ah, no.  That’d be, naked is delicious.

Photos: Kelly Cline

Donna Marie Desfor is the founder and executive chef of There’s A Chef in My Kitchen, a portable culinary school in Harrisburg, PA.

a test kitchen dossier

A woman should never be seen eating or drinking, unless it be a lobster salad and Champagne, the only true feminine and becoming viands.
— Lord Byron (1778-1824)

Foodstuff: Lobster

Proper Name: Homarus Americanus, belonging to the Homaridae family

Etymology: From the old English word loppestre, which is a corruption of the Latinate word locusta by the old English word for spider, loppe.

Area of Origin: Oceans from around the world, but most famously the Atlantic

Description
Lobsters, the red, cheery, iconic symbols of New England, are actually rather international in nature. There are several varieties of lobster, including a smaller European incarnation and a Japanese one; however, all types of lobsters have the same basic body, which consists of two symmetrical, powerful claws (where many times the best meat is found), an abdomen, head and thorax, both of which are covered by the carapace (shell). A lobster’s vision is generally quite poor, thus it uses its antennas as sensors. Besides these sensors, the entire interior of a lobster is edible, including the stomach for the intrepid for the gastronomic connoisseur.

History
In previous centuries, lobsters were the sustenance of the poor. We may find this hard to believe now, in our luxurious $26-lobster-eating contemporary times, but until the late Nineteenth and early Twentieth Centuries, lobsters were deemed a nuisance and used as fertilizer and bait for fish. They were so abundant in New England that they covered New England beaches at low tide. In Europe however, lobsters were always thought of as a delicacy and were routinely immortalized in Seventeenth Century Dutch still-lifes.

By the middle of the Nineteenth Century, New England started to capitalize on the abundance of lobster in the area by canning the excess and selling it. By the Twentieth Century, with the advent of more sophisticated transportation techniques, there started to be a demand for live lobster, which was shipped to Europe at astronomical costs, thus making lobster a luxury food staple. Unfortunately as the demand for lobster increased, it became over-fished and exploited; it was only with the advent of recent conservation efforts that lobsters became more populous.

Varieties of Lobster
By far the most popular and desired variety of lobster is the Maine lobster, which features sweet succulent meat and a subtle flavor. These lobsters are becoming rather rare and expensive as the area becomes rapidly over-fished, and due to this scarcity, restaurants often mislead customers by listing Maine lobster on the menu when they are actually serving lobster fished from off the coast of Canada (be sure to ask!). In response to this growing problem, Maine fishermen are starting to tag their lobsters as a certification of their authenticity.

There are certainly other species of lobsters, most notably the European variety, which is very similar to the American version. The European lobster is found in the Atlantic from Norway to Morocco, as well as in the Mediterranean. Though on average these are slightly smaller than their American counterparts, they are thought by experts to have a finer and more delicate flavor and texture.

Another variety is the Norway lobster, which is a pinkish-orange color and rather attractive. The tail of the Norway lobster is popular due to its tender muscular flesh; it is sometimes served with chips in the upscale pubs of the UK, but is highly esteemed as a delicacy in many parts of Europe and is often called “scampi.”

Storing and Cooking Lobster
Storing lobsters is not very difficult when they are frozen, but as one could imagine, they are much more complicated to accommodate when they are alive. Live lobsters should be stored in open containers in the refrigerator (claws clamped with thick rubber bands), provided they are kept moist with seaweed, or seawater dampened towels or newspaper. Do not immerse lobsters in water or place on ice in an airtight container, as they will suffocate and die. Live lobsters can live up to 48 hours after you’ve purchased them provided they are kept cold and their gills are kept moist, as described above. (Source: Maine Lobster Promotional Council)

Though it is still unclear whether lobsters feel pain when they are boiled (Norwegians say yes, Scots say no), boiling remains the tried and true method of eating and savoring lobster. However lobster is very versatile and can actually used as a base for casseroles, soups and pretty much anything one can think of. See our Test Kitchen Note, How to Cook a Lobster, for detailed instructions.

Best Matches
Lobsters are particularly excellent when served boiled with drawn butter, which is the traditional New England method and a fail-safe one. One can also serve a lobster stuffed and baked with other seafood, such as crabmeat, which is often a nice match. Lobster can also be shown to its best advantage with the addition of cream, which dishes like Lobster Newburg and lobster bisque showcase well. Of course, a classic French pairing is that of vanilla, our Indulgence for this month.

Our Approach
Though we admire lobster’s unique ability to be show-stopping all by itself, here at the Gilded Fork we like to mix things up a bit. This month we are featuring an international approach to lobster consumption, from lobster arepas to lobster bisque shooters — dishes bound to showcase the versatility of this excellent and sophisticated crustacean.

Recipes

Lobster Stock
Lobster Bisque Shooters
Lobster Arepas
Asparagus Risotto with Truffled Lobster
Lobster Ravioli in Vanilla Butter Sauce
Lobster, Mango and Jicama Summer Rolls
Mixed Seafood in Ginger Broth with Confetti Vegetables
Rosemary Lobster Fricassé with Baby Vegetables

Dossier by Rebecca Harrington

a test kitchen dossier

Huge lemons, cut in slices, would sink like setting suns into the dusky sea, softly illuminating it with their radiating membranes, and its clear, smooth surface aquiver from the rising bitter essence.
- Rainer Maria Rilke

Foodstuff: Lemons

Area of Origin: Asia or Southeast Asia, possibly India or Malaysia

Etymology: From the French limon

Description
Hot summer days. Lemonade stands. A succulent lemon tart. Summer pastas, grilled fish, a citrus vinaigrette. From childhood to adulthood the lemon is there, ironically enough, to make life a little sweeter. Lemons are one of those foods — like sugar, chocolate, and this month’s main ingredient, shrimp — that human beings seem to have instinctively known were meant to be eaten. Though a thick peel hides the fruit from the eye, it is easy to see how people might have discovered the lemon’s bounty: Good lemons have a pervasive aroma. When something smells that heavenly, who could resist taking a bite? While many of today’s lemons are so sour that eating the fruit sounds like a form of self-flagellation, lemons can actually be sour or sweet (though sweet is a relative term). Relatively few varieties of lemons are available to us today, and we can only hope that someday lemons will go the way of tomatoes, where we will be inundated with exciting heirloom varieties.

The lemon’s ubiquity in cooking stems from its dominant quality – its sourness – as acidity improves the taste of a wide variety of foods. Lemon juice is also a natural anti-oxidant, which is why adding it to sliced apples keeps them white; similarly, lemon juice helps food retain a fresh, bright, vibrant taste when cooked. The high acidity also explains why lemons are so wine friendly: Citric acid (that’s what makes you pucker up, sweetheart) also occurs naturally in grapes and is preserved in wine. Lemony foods pair well with still and sparkling whites, as well as rosés.

History
The lemon’s geographical origin is a bit difficult to pin down. The cultivated lemon is believed to be a hybrid of the wild lime and citron, but the lemon’s tendency to hybridize (get a little too friendly with other plants) makes it extremely difficult to track its movements. It probably originated somewhere in southeast Asia, or possibly India.

In the 7th Century the Saracens (the Islamic people that Richard the Lionhearted would later fight in the Crusades) brought citrus fruits including lemons to Sicily; lemons then spread throughout Spain, North Africa and Italy. Several hundred years later, the English Crusaders may not have won the war, but they did bring lemons back to England. In 1943, the lemon traveled to Haiti with Columbus, and today lemons are cultivated worldwide in tropical and temperate climates. Most American lemons grow in California, and most European lemons grow on the coasts and islands of the Mediterranean.

And that summer drink beloved by American children and aspiring entrepreneurs? Lemonade may actually have been invented in medieval Egypt: According to historical documents and trade records, qatarmizat were bottles of lemon juice with lots of sugar. A popular drink in Egypt, qatarmizat was also exported.

Lemons still grow in a variety of forms, and one of these forms is making a major comeback, at least in the United States. Meyer lemons are probably a cross between a lemon and a navel or mandarin orange. They are named after Frank N. Meyer, who in 1908 brought them to the United States from China, where they had been growing for centuries. Until quite recently, Meyer lemons were available almost exclusively in California, where they were typically grown in people’s backyards. Á la Alice Waters, many restaurants bought Meyer lemons from area residents during their growing seasons – signs were (and still are) commonly displayed in restaurants inviting people to bring in their Meyer lemons. Their popularity has led to some commercial production, and Meyer lemons are now available in season from some grocery stores.

Varieties

Eureka, Lisbon
Almost all lemons grown in California are one of these almost identical varieties. Considered the American standard, Eureka and Lisbon lemons are very juicy with extremely high acidity.

Meyer
Thin and soft-skinned, less acidic, with an intoxicating aroma. They are fairly expensive and fragile, but they are exceptionally delicious in desserts, with fish or even cut up and mixed with roasted winter vegetables such as cauliflower. Look for them November through May.

Ponderosa
A cross between a lemon and a citron, Ponderosa lemons are larger and rounder with a strong citrus taste. The fruit are great for juicing because of their size, and Ponderosa plants are becoming popular because they can be grown indoors. Their blossoms have a beautiful scent, and in the right climate these trees are said to grow very easily. So if you have a green thumb, you can buy a Ponderosa plant and live in a citrus grove! Unfortunately, Ponderosas are not readily available in stores, so unless you know someone with a tree, you’re probably out of luck for now.

Forms of Lemons for Cooking

Juice
Great for lemonade, mixed drinks, salad dressing, deglazing pans, brightening up soups, sauces, stews or casseroles – really there’s not much a dash or more of lemon juice can’t improve. Let’s not forget it can also be used as a cooking liquid, as with this month’s Shrimp Ceviche. Keeping fresh lemons on stock is a great way to enhance your cooking without investing a lot of money or time; unfortunately, bottled lemon juice is an extremely poor substitute – so stay with the fresh!

Fruit
An essential pairing for any fried food, sweeter lemons can also be eaten in slices. While dentists everywhere will probably cringe in horror, if you haven’t eaten a lemon slice dipped in sugar, you haven’t lived.

Rind or zest
One of those chefs secrets, lemon zest has a stronger, more perfumed aroma and taste than lemon juice, as it contains essential oils. For strings of zest or shavings, you can use a special tool such as a zester or micro-plane (a flat grater with extremely small holes). For larger strips simply use a paring knife or sharp vegetable peeler – but be careful: You don’t want to leave any of the pith (white part of the skin) attached because it tastes very bitter.

Candied lemon peel:
If you are feeling ambitious, try candying some lemon peel, then let your imagination go wild. Take strips of lemon peel and combine with two cups of cold water. Bring to a boil, then drain the water. Repeat two more times. Add two cups of sugar to one cup of water, bring to a boil and stir to dissolve the sugar. Add the lemon peels and simmer for about fifteen minutes. Drain and let cool. Finally, toss the peels in some additional sugar. Candied lemon peel (or candied orange peel) is fantastic sprinkled on everything from fruit salad to chicken salad (you’ll believe it when you try it).

Recipes

Diver Scallops with Cauliflower Purée, Lemon Confit and Golden Osetra Caviar
Moroccan Lemon Chicken with Chickpeas and Honeyed Sauce
Moroccan Preserved Lemons
Shrimp Ceviche
White Chocolate Lemon Napoleon
Lavender Pound Cake with Lemon Glaze
Epiphany Cocktail
Lemon Upside-Down Cake
Steamed Artichokes with Lemon Herb Mayonnaise
Lemon-Zested Granny Smith Apple & Fennel Salad

Sources
History of Lemonade by Clifford A. Wright
Lemon Facts
Lemon by Julia F. Morton
The New Food Lover’s Companion by Sharon Tyler Herbst
The Food of Italy by Waverly Root

Dossier by China Millman

Eating does not consist in putting cold, greasy animal food into one’s mouth. Eating consists of putting into the mouth – chewing, enjoying the flavour, and swallowing, of course – warm, juicy, thinnish or thickish, fat or lean, morsels of properly prepared food precisely at the nick of time.
- Frederick W. Hackwood, Good Cheer (1911)

Foodstuff: Lamb

Etymology: From Proto-Germanic lambaz (Gothic lamb, Middle High German lamp, German lamm “lamb”); common to the Germanic languages, but with no known cognates outside them.

Definition
A lamb is a sheep less than a year old, and is typically brought to market between the ages of six and eight months. “Spring lamb” is a traditional label indicating lamb born in the early Spring months, but given modern livestock techniques, it is now available year-round, so this mark is not necessarily of particular distinction now. Younger lamb has a milder flavor and more tender texture, so it is more palatable to those not accustomed to or fond of game meats.

The famed pré-salé lamb (literally “pre-salted”) of the salt marshes of Normandy, France is prized for its taste. There the lambs graze on the seaside marshes, which imparts a particularly subtle salty flavor to the meat that is celebrated by some gourmands. There is also a Welsh Salt Marsh variety available.

New Zealand and Australian varieties of lamb are prized for their flavor, but some prefer the taste of American lamb, which is slightly milder and less gamey.

History
Eating lamb is a celebrated Spring tradition as it is a symbol of rebirth in various religions, including Christianity, Judaism and Islam. It was commonly used in ancient cultures as a sacrifice to the gods, and is prominently featured in Biblical texts.

Though lamb has never been incredibly popular on American tables, it is much more so elsewhere in the world, and its consumption has been prevalent throughout the history of civilization. Given sheep’s distinction as the most common livestock in the world, both lamb and mutton (mature sheep) are a staple of European, Middle Eastern, Asian, and some North African diets.

Cuts & Preparation
Lamb is typically available in the following cuts: shoulder, rack, shank/breast, loin, and leg. Given its versatility, the meat can be roasted, grilled, braised, stewed, and prepared in a variety of ways; following are some recommended techniques for preparing lamb:

Braising
Braising is a moist heat cooking method where lamb cuts are first browned, then cooked in a small amount of liquid. The liquid produces steam which helps tenderize the meat. Thus, this method of cooking is perfect for less tender cuts of lamb such as neck slices, shoulder cuts, riblets, breasts and shanks.

To braise, heat a small amount of oil, fat or butter in a heavy frying pan and brown lamb on all sides. (The lamb may first be dusted with seasoned flour.) Pour off drippings and season as desired. Add a small amount of liquid such as water, vegetable juice or meat stock, and vegetables if desired. Cover pan tightly and cook at low temperature until tender (sauce or gravy can be made from the cooking liquid). A tight-fitting lid holds in the steam thus making the braised meat more tender.

Broiling
Preheat broiler. Place trimmed lamb on rack in broiling pan and broil approximately 3 to 6 inches from heat source. Turn lamb over halfway and broil on second side until desired degree of doneness. Broiling time will vary depending on thickness and type of lamb cut. Use tongs to turn chops and steaks (don’t use a fork as it will pierce the meat and allow juices to escape).

Stewing
Stewing is a cooking method in which small pieces of meat (and often vegetables) are covered with liquid and simmered gently.

Brown lamb on all sides in a small amount of oil, fat or butter. Cover with liquid and season. Add vegetables if desired. A stew can be simmered in a pot on the stove, a crock pot or a covered casserole in the oven. Stewing tenderizes the lamb meat and allows the flavors of the ingredients to blend. Make sure that liquid just simmers as boiling dries out the meat.

Grilling
Because of its natural tenderness, lamb is ideal for grilling. Butterflied leg of lamb, lamb chops and steaks, kabobs and ground lamb patties are perfect for grilling. Other cuts include bone-in leg of lamb shoulder, rack and loin roasts, and ribs.

Boneless rolled roasts should be as round (cylindrical) as possible for even cooking. Steaks and chops should be at least 1-inch thick. Meat cubes that will be cooked on skewers should be as uniform in size as possible.

Trim chops, steaks and roasts of fat before grilling in order to eliminate flare-ups and diminish smoke. Use tongs to turn lamb.

Roasting
Roasting is a dry heat cooking method where the lamb is cooked in an oven.

To prepare a lamb roast, simply place roast fat-side up on rack in open roasting pan, sprinkling with seasonings, as desired. Insert meat thermometer in the thickest muscle, being careful not to let the thermometer rest against a bone or in fat, either of which will cause the temperature reading to be inaccurate. Do not add water. Do not cover.

Roast to desired degree of doneness, following approximate time on timetable chart. Remove roasts from oven when thermometer registers about 10 degrees lower than the desired doneness. Allow to stand in a warm place for 10 to 15 minutes after removal from the oven. During this period, the roast will continue to cook and internal temperatures will rise.

Source: USDA

Cooking Times
Lamb is best when served medium-rare, or 135-140 degrees F. Its color will be a lovely reddish pink, and the meat is extremely tender at this temperature. As a guideline, the meat should be cooked approximately 20-25 minutes per pound, with an additional 10 minutes to rest.

Following is an overview of cooking times:

Rare:                130° F–135° F Internal very red color; very moist with warmer juices
20-25 minutes per 1 lb. plus 8–10 min. resting
Medium-rare:   135° F–140° F Internal lighter red color; very moist with warmer juices
25 minutes per 1 lb. plus 8–10 min. resting

Medium:            140° F–145° F Internal pink red color; moist with clear pink juices
30 minutes per 1 lb. plus 8–10 min. resting

Well-done*:       150° F–160° F Internal color has no pink or red, slightly moist with clear juices
30 minutes per 1 lb. plus 8–10 min. resting

Source: Australian Lamb

*For the love of Escoffier, please do not serve your lamb at this temperature.

Best Matches
Lamb is traditionally matched with some type of mint, from sauces to jellies and herb rubs; we found that it is also perfectly complemented by lavender (hence our indulgence for this month).

Our Approach
This month we have combined some traditional methods and flavors to craft dishes that are perfect for Spring feasts and holidays, as well as delved into an intriguing combination from Australia.

Recipes

Herb Crusted Rack of Lamb with Garlic Smashed Potatoes and Balsamic Reduction
Coffee Spiced Lamb with a Minted Coffee Sauce
Roman Roast Leg of Lamb with Orzo
Lamb and Fresh Herb Khoresh
Lamb Loin with Baby Spinach, Sun-Dried Tomatoes and Bush Tomato Chutney
Lamb and Orange Stew

Photo by Kelly Cline (Coffee Spiced Lamb recipe)

Testing for our Gilded Fork Cookbook continues, and we have so many wonderful kitchen helpers offering their interpretations of our dishes! One of our ardent supporters, and a veteran cookbook writer herself, Pat Churchill, a New Zealander who lives in Melbourne, Australia, blogged about the recipes she tested for us at Cooking Down Under. One of my favorite photos of hers is also one of my favorite recipes in the book, Minted Pea Purée Canapés in Puff Pastry Vol-au-Vents.

Another wonderful recipe tester is the incomparable Andrea Meyers, who blogged about her process and the resulting photos on her popular blog at www.AndreasRecipes.com. One of the dishes she tested was Chef Moni’s Caramelized Apple Bread Pudding.

And as I mentioned last week, we have a number of Personal Chefs who are helping us with the cookbook (and actually making many of our recipes for their clients). Lisa Brisch, owner of Dinner Thyme Personal Chef Service offered this photo of our Bon Temps Crab Cakes with Rémoulade.

Robyn Barber, owner of Barber’s Bistro Personal Chef Service whose Café Brulot photo we featured last week, also offered this fabulous interpretation of our Shrimp Ceviche.

The same recipe was tested by Deborah Mele of Italian Food Forever. here’s one of Debi’s photos:

Debi also offered us a beautifully simple yet perfectly composed photo of our Shrimp & Avocado Canapés:

Next week, I’ll have more news and photos as the cookbook continues to shape up. I can’t say it enough, we have had so many wonderful people contributing to make this project a success, and we really love them. The creativity and passion that’s expressed by people who love great food is really inspiring. An example is the wonderful Jaden from Steamy Kitchen. After interacting online for some time, we finally met in person this week. Jaden was visiting New York from Tampa, and attended our Food Blogger Playdate, and not only brought me truffles and black garlic to play with, she also helped out by photographing some of the dishes we were making that afternoon. I’ll share some of her photos next week, along with some I took myself for the book.

This test kitchen note comes courtesy of our Pastry Princess, Monica Glass. For more information, see our Port dossier.

An overcast sky and ripping wind made for a desolate evening at home (ever the rare occurrence in this robust city). And with an endless pile of mess engulfing almost every empty space in my room, I was destined for dreadful evening. Over the year, I’ve slowly discovered ways in which to make myself more productive, or in the very least I’ve found ways to make the passing time more pleasurable, and a spicy port happens to be one such vice. Aching for the perfect remedy to console myself on such a wintry evening, I cracked open a bottle of port; Nieport Ruby Porto to be exact. With admirable density and flavorful oomph full of spicy nuts, dark fruits and creamy caramel notes, it felt effortlessly smooth caressing my lips. Nothing makes a body cozier during winter than a glass of port (sorry, but even I must give hot chocolate a back seat to port). I swooned, I sipped, I got sticky, I drank. Such a sweet cap to a blistering day.

***

Port is a fascinating, yet confusing topic. You may think it’s just a dessert wine… perhaps the most common, too… but Port is sexy. It’s sassy. In fact, it’s the sexiest of dessert wines. And sublimely delicious. Now that’s the truth.

Port is a fortified wine, meaning that certain spirits, particularly brandy, and sometimes additional flavorings, herbs or spices are added to protect and stabilize the wine (giving it a longer shelf life after opening). The addition of brandy takes place either before or during the fermentation process, the timing of which makes a difference to the end product. If added before fermentation, the wine has a higher sugar content and is, therefore, sweet; if added after fermentation a dryer wine is achieved. Fortifying also gives them a more complex and robust flavor, as well as increasing the alcohol content. Fortified wines are generally between 17 and 21 percent alcohol. Marsala, madeira and sherry are other fortified wines, and as with port, are often called “stickies” as they tend to be thick, sweet and, well, sticky.

True Port wine comes only from the city of Oporto in the Douro Valley in Portugal, in the same manner that true Champagne is only produced in the Champagne region of France. Only 5 of the 30 varieties of grape grown in the Douro Valley region are considered to be of exceptional enough quality for port: Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Tinto Cão and Touriga Francesa. The Touriga Nacional grape is said to be, without a doubt, the best grape for making port; however, it is not the most widely planted variety, as it only produces about half the yield of other varieties. Nevertheless, this vigorous and robust grape gives port its deep color and longevity.

There are many styles of port, but two broad categories of two distinctly different aging processes define port: bottle aged or cask aged. Bottle aged (Vintage) ports retain their color and fruitiness into their maturity since they are aged for only a short time in wood and are bottled without filtration when they are meant to mature. Cask aged (Wood) ports are aged in wood, filtered and then bottled, so they tend to become tawny in color and are also ready to drink immediately.

Ruby – The most basic, youngest and least expensive style is a blend of red grapes from several years’ harvests that ages two to three years in stainless steel or wood before being bottled. The lightest and fruitiest of ports, they taste of berries with vanilla and light tannins. A decent Ruby will set you back $15-$20 and is a great starting point for the novice.
Tawny – Simply a mixture of ruby and white ports, the best tawnys have acquired their “tawny” or amber hue from longer wood ageing than ruby – at least six years and up to 40 – in the cask before bottling. They are usually sweet with a buttery, nutty caramel flavor that results from the oxidation of wood ageing.

Vintage – Regarded by connoisseurs as the crème de la crème of ports, they are the most expensive and rare. Vintage port comes from a single harvest of exceptional quality, and is bottled after two to three years of cask ageing. The wine then spends many years maturing in the bottle, and some of the best may take over 50 years to be ready for drinking. The best vintages from this century include 1994.

Note: If you do open a Vintage Port, make sure you decant it several hours ahead to remove the sediment that has built up in the years of ageing.

Late Bottled Vintage or LBV – These were created specifically to give restaurants a vintage type port that did not have sediment and could last a while after opening. While they are actually the produce of a single vintage, those deemed not good enough to make a vintage port will typically go into the making of a LBV. Not meant for ageing, it is ready to drink earlier than vintage port. One added bonus, though, is that you can expect it to last for a full month after opening.

White – These are produced in the same manner as ruby ports, but with white grapes, White ports (in the opinion of many) should either be left on the shelf or used solely in mixed drinks or cooking. If served alone, white port is almost always chilled and served as an apéritif.

***
“I cook with wine, sometimes I even add it to the food!!”
Julia Child

Port is a wonderful wine to blissfully sip in a relaxed manner after a good meal. The best things in life are always bittersweet, and this velvety wine is not meant for fast drinking. Port should be served around 65 degrees, in a narrow wine glass that should be filled no more than halfway so the wine’s aroma (pepper, smoke, truffles and black currant) can be fully appreciated. Because it can stand up to other strong flavors, port goes very well with exquisite cheeses like Stilton, Gorgonzola or cheddar. It also pairs beautifully with walnuts, hazelnuts and chocolate.

Its rich and sweet flavor can add a wonderful dimension to many foods, and has, therefore, long been used in cooking a variety of dishes, savory and sweet. Port can be used as a sauce to accompany and brighten a meat, cheese course or dessert. In cooking, ruby ports are the most utilized, as they retain their robust color; just make sure to always use a wine that you would drink. Incorporate port as you would any other wine: After searing the meat, deglaze the pan with the port and reduce it to about half; or try reducing the port alone (or with a little sugar) to accompany a cheese course. Fruit-based desserts are also a natural ally to port. One favorite use for port is to poach fruits in the sticky liquid – try a port-poached pear with some ice cream for a succulent treat.

***

“Port is a wine that strengthens as it gladdens as no other wine can do,” and my newfound love affair with port fills me with tiny butterflies. Compelled by all its mystical qualities, this month we’ve created quite an assortment of recipes based on the luscious elixir.

I’m inspired, and a few more ideas I’d like to attempt in the coming month include things like Stilton ravioli with port and walnut sauce, port caramels…yum.

This week’s Test Kitchen Note comes from Chef Lia, our intrepid test kitchen teammate and researcher extraordinaire:

Every Fall I would go on a quest for the perfect pumpkin. I was not much of a pumpkin carver, but I sought the most perfect pumpkin on which to draw a happy face (I wasn’t interested in making scary ones!). Of course, because I was always cooking something, there was also a requirement that I have a fresh pumpkin to create my culinary delights with.

At the top of the list were freshly roasted pumpkin seeds. After all, you spend so much time scraping out the inside of the pumpkin to prepare it for roasting, you can’t possibly throw out all those delicious seeds! I would painstakingly pick all the seeds out of the fibrous web, rinse them thoroughly, salt them, lay them out on a cookie sheet and roast. While they were cooling, I would move on to other pumpkin preparation activities as the long-awaited pumpkin pie was put on the holiday request list.

Now, you must understand that I grew up in a family of dedicated eaters who would consume anything that was in full sight, so it doesn’t surprise me that not one of those seeds was left when it was time for me to snack. No, my older brothers got to them first (truly, it was my fault for leaving them in plain sight!).

Preparing the pumpkin wasn’t difficult, just time consuming: I would cut the pumpkin into quarters and roast it to a soft, golden goodness. Once cooled, I would scrape off the pulp, mash (by hand, as I didn’t have a food processor back then) and put it in the fridge until needed for that perfect pie.

My fondest memory of pumpkins past was a terrific, not too difficult pie recipe found on the paper that lines the frozen pie shells. It was a deliciously decadent pie with layers of buttery crust, cheesecake and pumpkin pie served with a large dollop of whipped cream — I can still remember the taste (I must search my archives and find that recipe!). This pie was a substitute for the traditional “all pumpkin” pie, as my family didn’t really like pumpkin; however, once they tasted this version (only a thin layer of pumpkin pie), it became a staple at every Thanksgiving dinner.

One thing is for sure: I had way too much free time back then, and spent it taking apart pumpkins for cooking. My preferred pumpkin today is the canned variety, which is actually much better tasting. Pumpkins grown for decorating really are quite bland, and the kinds used for cooking are sometimes hard to find because they are typically smaller and grown in less quantity. Some chefs, I am told, like to substitute hubbard squash for the pumpkin; surely, if you have the time to prep the fresh squash, this is a great substitute but with a much different taste.

I understand that here on Long Island we will sadly have a limited supply of pumpkins this year — the unpredictable weather destroyed most of the growing season for those really big pumpkins. Alas, pumpkin culinary delights will not suffer thanks to the manufacturers who provide us pumpkin puree all year round!