I see the mastering of lesser cuts of meat as the mark of a true cook. Let’s face it: Anyone can serve a decent filet mignon — there isn’t a whole lot of cooking involved. Given both the skyrocketing prices of food and the deep-seated need for me to master those lesser cuts, I have set out to master the art of braising. All-Clad was kind enough to send me a 6-quart saute pan to test from their new Stainless with d5 collection, so it is my new plaything (initial thoughts at the end of the post). I do love a pan that can go directly from stove top to oven, as it makes the cooking and cleaning easier.

There is something inherently comforting about slow-cooked, caramelized beef, but it takes a bit of patience — not my strong suit. Nevertheless, I reminded myself ahead of time that such patience would result in a luscious dinner.

The last time I made beef-back ribs I used an ale and finished them on the stove top, and used a small soup pot. This time I decided to go with a lager and finish them in the oven in the All-Clad pan. In this case I used Foster’s, as it was the only beer I could find in a single serving, and one can does the whole batch.

The beauty of these ribs is that they are mighty cheap. I bought two packs (about 12 ribs) for a total of $3.00. These are not to be confused with short ribs, which have the meat on top of the bones. These have the meat in between the bones, and are much cheaper. Now, I might be braising these slightly differently from the way others do, but I look at recipes as a guide. Feel free to adapt, add different flavors, or whatever you like.

Step 1: Caramelize the ribs.
This is the most critical part of the whole process, so don’t rush it. You want to really get some caramelization on these ribs before they are submerged in liquid, because it’s a major part of your flavor component. It will take about 20 minutes. Lightly coat the ribs with Kosher salt and a bit of pepper, get your pan really hot, add some olive oil, heat until it shimmers, and place your short ribs in the pan. Leave them alone.

While that’s happening, pre-heat your oven to 375 F. Resist the urge to move the meat around too much — let the magic happen.

Step 2: Add onions & garlic.
You can also add carrots here, but I forgot to grab one at the supermarket. It happens. Reduce your heat and add the onions and garlic. You may want to wait until the last few minutes to add the garlic because if it burns it will ruin the whole dish. I probably should have been a bit more patient here with the onions, but I added the garlic simultaneously and didn’t want to burn it. (This photo is before the onions had done their delicious sweating.)

Note: Some recipes call for removing the ribs, draining the fat from the pan, and starting with fresh oil to sweat the onions, garlic and other vegetables. I disagree, because in this case there wasn’t too much fat left, and I wanted the flavor.

Step 3: Add braising liquid, herbs & spices.
I added a giant can of Foster’s, some of the rosemary water I made the other day (not just for hair!), some ground coriander and a hint of Chinese five spice. (Add whatever spices tickle your fancy. For whatever reason, my mental mouth liked these.) Stir the liquid and scrape the bottom of the pan to loosen all the yummy bits. These are also important for flavor.

Step 4: Cover and place in a 375 F oven.
Now go away. For about 3 hours. You can check on the liquid periodically (I do so about every 30 minutes), but let the meat do its thing.

When the ribs are finished, the liquid will have reduced considerably, and the meat will be falling off the bone. You shouldn’t need a knife to cut it apart. Note: This is when you should check the salt flavor in the dish. I tend to go easy on the salt in the beginning, because as the juice reduces the flavors become intensified, and too much salt will ruin it.

Step 5: Serve over something starchy and delicious.
Some people serve these with potatoes or rice, but I am a huge fan of egg noodles. I like the way they slide over my tongue and slither down my throat. Once I remove the bones and there is nothing but meaty goodness, I like to slather this over a pile of noodles and lose myself in silky, meaty goodness.

Verdict on the All-Clad Stainless with d5 saute pan:

My sentiments about cookware and sports cars are the same: I want sleek design and superior performance. This pan did not disappoint. All-Clad has incorporated some really smart design elements into this collection, including little touches that make for easier logistics, such as lid handles that can accommodate hands wearing oven mitts, cool handles on the pan should you forget said oven mitt (I have done so) and a pouring rim all the way around the edge. The pan is also quite light despite its enormous 6-qt. size.

Most important for me, however, is the even cooking across the surface of the pan. I had ribs inside and outside, and expected to have to move them around so the inner ones wouldn’t burn, but caramelization transpired in harmony for all the ribs. Glee.

Cleanup with this pan was also effortless, even with caramelized gooey goodness all over the pan and lid. I will be experimenting much more with this pan, so I’ll share further thoughts as they occur.

Jennifer and Chef Mark enjoy a tour of the Stroud Brewery in the Cotswolds. Greg and Ian show them how they make their small batch craft brew, and tell some stories of the historic location they’re in.

A production of the Culinary Media Network.
www.culinarymedianetwork.com

ReMARKable Palate #218: Stroud Brewery

This week, it’s back to the Cotswolds region of England, where we recently had the pleasure of meeting Greg Pilley from the Stroud Brewery. The Stroud brewery is truly a local microbrew, making small batch craft beer in the village of Thrupp in Gloucestershire. Greg tells us about his unlikely path to running a brewery, and we also learn about why the spot in which they brew has a unique place in history.

Theme Song: “Go Fish”, by Big Money Grip, from the Podsafe Music Network.

ReMARKable Palate is a production of The Culinary Media Network. www.culinarymedianetwork.com

We pay a visit to Rhosilli Harbor, home of one of Wales’ most unusual natural features, The Worm’s Head, a rock outcropping off the coast. Our tour guide, Paul Harris from www.seewales.com, gives us the lowdown on the site, and then we enjoy a local brew with a great view!

A production of the Culinary Media Network.
www.culinarymedianetwork.com

While driving near the town of Pitlochry in the Perthshire area of Scotland, we chance upon the Moulin Brewery, which brews ales such as the award-winning Braveheart, which we see Mike Mudie making, and Chef Mark gets a sample.

A production of the Culinary Media Network.
www.culinarymedianetwork.com

Jennifer speaks with Chef Brent Wertz of the Kingsmill Resort in Williamsburg, Virginia about his innovative pairings of beer with food. Chef Brent explains the best way to pour a beer, and shows that beer can even go well with dessert!

A production of The Culinary Media Network. www.culinarymedianetwork.com

RP166: Pennsylvania Oktoberfest

Chef Mark attends a dinner celebrating Pennsylvania Oktoberfest at Chef Gabrielle Hamilton’s Prune Restaurant in New York. With a rich German heritage, and plenty of great microbrews, PA is a great place to be in the fall for eating and drinking.

Theme Song: “Go Fish”, by Big Money Grip, from the Podsafe Music Network.

ReMARKable Palate is a production of The Culinary Media Network. www.culinarymedianetwork.com

This week, I take a trip to the west of the UK and get a taste of Wales! I wish it were really so, but actually I spoke with a bunch of Welsh food producers at the Fancy Food Show here in New York. From cheddar cheese, to beer, sea salt and flavored pates, the foods of Wales reflect the Gaelic roots of these warm people, and I’m sure you’ll agree that the ones I met are a fun lot.

Collier’s Cheese
Cwrw Haf
Halen Mon Seasalt
Patchwork Foods

ReMARKable Palate is a production of The Culinary Media Network. www.culinarymedianetwork.com

Is there anything more American than beer and baseball? No, this isn’t about a day at the ballpark. It is, however, about the magic of carbonation, and what that means for the senses (this is good stuff, people).

www.herestobeer.com

You’ll also hear a clip of my interview with baseball legend Reggie “Mr. October” Jackson, who is dabbling in soup these days along with Al Yegenah, the inspiration for the Seinfeld “Soup” episode.

www.originalsoupman.com

Music: Beau Hall (http://www.beaurocks.com/), George Fletcher’s Bourbon Renewal (http://www.georgefletcher.com)

Food Philosophy is a production of the Culinary Media Network (http://www.culinarymedianetwork.com/).

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Eager to serve some beer and food pairings for the festive season? Brewmaster Jane Killebrew-Galeski takes us through delicious options for different courses, from light beers to organic microbrews. Cheers, and happy holidays!

Music: Beau Hall (http://www.beaurocks.com/)

Food Philosophy is a production of the Culinary Media Network (http://www.culinarymedianetwork.com/).

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ReMARKable Palate Video #27: Beer Sommelier Marc Stroobandt

Master Beer sommelier Marc Stroobandt left law school to learn about beer, trading one bar for another! We learn about the best way to enjoy Belgian beers, including Stella Artois, Hoegaarden and Leffe. Listen for Jennifer’s audio interview with Marc on Food Philosophy #69.

ATTN: Please be sure you have the correct feed address for ReMARKable Palate. Please subscribe to http://feeds.feedburner.com/ReMARKablePalate. The show will soon be switching feeds, and if you’re subscribed via Feedburner, you’ll never miss an episode! (Once there, you can click on your podcatcher and be subscribed automatically)

To update your iTunes settings manually, click on “Advanced”, then “Subscribe to Podcast”, and type in the feedburner URL, http://feeds.feedburner.com/ReMARKablePalate , and you’re good to go. Thanks!

Music: “Go Fish” by Big Money Grip, from the Podsafe Music Network. music.podshow.com

The ReMARKable Palate is a production of The Culinary Media Network. www.culinarymedianetwork.com

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Beer sommelier Marc Stroobandt show us the correct way to maximize the flavor and essence of Belgian beer, including Stella Artois, Hoegaarden and Leffe. Cheers!

Music: Beau Hall (http://www.beaurocks.com/)

Food Philosophy is a production of the Culinary Media Network (http://www.culinarymedianetwork.com/).

food, food podcast, sensuality, Food Philosophy, Culinary Podcast Network, Gilded Fork, Jennifer Iannolo, Culinary Media Network, beer

Food Philosophy Video #18: Pouring Belgian Beer

Beer sommelier Marc Stroobandt show us the correct way to maximize the flavor and essence of Belgian beer, including Stella Artois, Hoegaarden and Leffe. Cheers!

Music: Beau Hall (http://www.beaurocks.com/)

Food Philosophy is a production of the Culinary Media Network (http://www.culinarymedianetwork.com/).

food, food podcast, sensuality, Food Philosophy, Culinary Podcast Network, Gilded Fork, Jennifer Iannolo, Culinary Media Network, beer

Did you know that Stella Artois was originally brewed as a Christmas lager? And that it is crafted by monks in Belgium? Chef Mark and I learned that and a whole lot more as we explored Belgian beer with our new friend Marc Stroobandt, a Master Beer Sommelier who flew in for a special dinner at Markt restaurant in NYC. He offered us some surprising tidbits, as well as some very helpful guidelines for pairing beer with food.

Featured Belgian beers:
Stella Artois
Hoegaarden
Leffe Blonde
Leffe Brune

Coming later this week: Video with Marc Stroobandt featuring the proper way to pour these beer varieties. Even if you already think you know how, this is worth watching!

Sponsors:

Hamilton Beach (http://www.hamiltonbeach.com/)

Go Daddy (www.godaddy.com)
Use code food1 for 10% off your order
Use code food2 for $5 off orders of $30 or more
Use code food3 for $6.95 domain names

Music: Beau Hall (www.beaurocks.com)

Food Philosophy is a production of the Culinary Media Network (www.culinarymedianetwork.com).

food, food podcast, sensuality, Food Philosophy, Culinary Podcast Network, Gilded Fork, Jennifer Iannolo, beer, Belgian beer, beer and food pairing, Hamilton Beach

Food Philosophy #69: Belgian Beer

Did you know that Stella Artois was originally brewed as a Christmas lager? And that it is crafted by monks in Belgium? Chef Mark and I learned that and a whole lot more as we explored Belgian beer with our new friend Marc Stroobandt, a Master Beer Sommelier who flew in for a special dinner at Markt restaurant in NYC. He offered us some surprising tidbits, as well as some very helpful guidelines for pairing beer with food.

Featured Belgian beers:
Stella Artois
Hoegaarden
Leffe Blonde
Leffe Brune

Coming later this week: Video with Marc Stroobandt featuring the proper way to pour these beer varieties. Even if you already think you know how, this is worth watching!

Sponsors:

Hamilton Beach (http://www.hamiltonbeach.com/)

Go Daddy (www.godaddy.com)
Use code food1 for 10% off your order
Use code food2 for $5 off orders of $30 or more
Use code food3 for $6.95 domain names

Music: Beau Hall (www.beaurocks.com)

Food Philosophy is a production of the Culinary Media Network (www.culinarymedianetwork.com).

food, food podcast, sensuality, Food Philosophy, Culinary Podcast Network, Gilded Fork, Jennifer Iannolo, beer, Belgian beer, beer and food pairing, Hamilton Beach

I read the news this morning that Boston Beer Co. has designed a special glass for Sam Adams Boston Lager. Long a fan of the tasty beverage, I’m intrigued by Jim Koch’s efforts to showcase it at its best. There were apparently hundreds of prototypes created and tested by sensory scientists (now there are some people I need to meet), and the final result claims to showcase the beer “just as the brewer intended.”

There is an extensive description on the Samuel Adams web site which actually specifies what different sections of the glass do for the taste, i.e. “The outward turned lip delivers beer to front of tongue where sweetness (malt) is tasted.” You can see the rest of the description here.

As a sensualist, I must say that this kind of attention to the sensations of a beverage and its interaction with the palate is something that pleases my sensibilities immeasurably. Thought + sensory stimulation + passion = a very pleasurable imbibing session. Nicely done, Jim Koch.

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CHIC Podcast #74: Making your own Beer

One of my students, Ryan O’Keefe, told me about his beermaking exploits and I thought you might like to hear more. He talks about what kinds of beer you can set out to make, the equipment you’ll need and where to research the information you will require to make great beer. Thanks for listening.

www.culinarypodcastnetwork.com

food, food podcast, cooking, brewing, beer, CHIC, Culinary Podcast Network, Gilded Fork

Hungry Magazine # 32: Suds Master

Nothing says Chicago beer like a glass of suds from Goose Island craft brewery. This month I sit down with brewmaster Greg Hall to find out how young is too young to start drinking beer, what it’s like to work with the Anheuser-Busch, and the beer culture of Europe. Enjoy this month’s podcast interview over a glass of suds. If you’re enjoying the pod during your commute as some of you like to do, you might hold off on the beer ’til you get home. On the other hand, we have no idea how bad your job really is.

www.culinarypodcastnetwork.com
food, food podcast, beer, Goose Island, Hungry, Culinary Podcast Network, Gilded Fork