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Fancy Food Show: Allergy & Gluten-Free Foods

Posted on 29 June 2010 by Jennifer Iannolo

I walked into this year’s Fancy Food Show with trepidation. I made sure I had a good breakfast, because I expected there would not be much to sample on the show floor that would fit within my current parameters of gluten- and dairy-free (among other things). Color me happy, because everywhere I looked, there were great big, blue signs saying “Certified Gluten-Free.” It seemed that every row had one, and some were completely allergen-free. I felt like a kid at Christmas.

I tasted a lot, and made Madeline taste what I could not, and though as usual there was a lot of mediocre, there were some serious standouts. All of their sites have store locators, so please indulge yourself in textures and tastes that will absolutely delight you. I promise.

Divvies: www.divvies.com

Oh, chocolate. Even though I’m not a huge chocolate eater, sometimes I just want a little something sweet (I’m looking at you, ladies). Lately, however, I’ve had to remove dairy from my diet in order to heal.

I’m also a sucker for beautiful packaging. So when I stumbled upon the Divvies booth, I was a little overexcited. As is typically the case with outstanding allergy-free products, there was a personally compelling story behind it all. Founder Robin Sandler’s son often spent birthdays and Easter celebrations without chocolate due to his extensive food allergies, and was unable to partake in the comfort of sharing food, as so many of us do. So she decided to do something about it, and created Divvies, a completely allergy-free bakery in South Salem, NY from which everything is designed to be shared. There are giant popcorn boxes with scoops and individual bags, trays of cupcakes, cookies and…wait for it…chocolate mint crunch bars.

Lori has just released her first cookbook, so look for more on her on an upcoming Food Philosophy podcast. There might just be a cookbook in it for you. You can order her products online via the web link above.

Gilbert’s Gourmet Goodies: www.gilbertsgourmetgoodies.com

It is often with hesitation that I bite into a gluten-free cookie. Usually they’re crumbly, taste like beans, or just aren’t worth the bother. Not these. Gilbert’s Goodies dairy-free chocolate chip, snickerdoodle and chocolate cookies are soft and luxurious like a normal, soft-baked cookie. I nearly lost my head for a minute.

Much like me, Liz Gilbert was an avid cook who developed food allergies later in life. And, like me, she found the offerings out there less than appealing, so she got to work in the kitchen. Her cookies have no wheat, gluten, peanuts, nuts, soy, milk, corn, corn syrup, transfats or preservatives, and gawd are they good. I could kiss her for her efforts, because those bites of cookie made all the bad go away.

Aunt Gussie’s: www.auntgussies.com

I haven’t had an English muffin in months. I’m a total hog for English muffins. And while I was an avid whole-grain bread eater before, I’ve found that much of the gluten-free breads out there are essentially Wonder Bread without the wheat. White, tasteless — blech. So I was delighted to meet David Caine of Aunt Gussie’s Cookes & Crackers, because his whole grain rosemary focaccia bread and English muffins were gorgeous without anything else on them. Gorgeous.

The best part? His company didn’t start out making gluten-free products — his mother made him do it. I need to shake that woman’s hand.

Against the Grain Gourmet: www.againstthegraingourmet.com

Pizza? Certo. Baguettes? Mais oui. Bagels? I was verklempt.

Though it contained dairy, I did have to sneak a few bites of dough from Against the Grain Gourmet, as the yellow color drew in my eye like a handsome cabana boy. The mozzarella added such flavor that I wanted to snarf the whole tray of samples. The texture was light, airy and a bit firmer than conventional baguettes, but the flavor made up for what I miss in a baguette.

I made Madeline try the pizza, as too much cheese would have sent my body to bad places, but given how she was raving about the pesto pizza (sans pine nuts) for the rest of the afternoon — and her unabashed love for cheese — I’m going to take her word for it.

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Mother’s Day Dinner Menu

Posted on 03 May 2010 by The Gilded Fork

[Note: You can see a variation of this menu in our Gilded Fork: Entertaining at Home cookbook, which features our fabulously famous Lavender Pound Cake with Lemon Glaze.]

Mom is a very special woman. You know it, we know it, and on Mother’s Day it’s time to show it. Though she would likely be satisfied with mud pies, we’ve gone slightly more elegant with this beautiful yet simple dinner menu. This way she can relax with a glass of wine while you get supper on the table – and you can spoil her for a change. (We’ve included notes for the wines below, too.)

A cacophony of Spring dishes is the way to win any Mom’s heart. With vivid colors, bright flavors, and simple preparation, this menu is a sure winner.

SALAD COURSE

Fennel, Orange and Zereshk (Barberry) Salad with Fig Vincotto
Suggested wine pairing: Sauvignon Blanc
(see Wine Notes below for further details)

SOUP COURSE

Carrot and Ginger Soup
Suggested wine pairing: Gewurtztraminer

MAIN COURSE

Sautéed Duck Breast with Green Peppercorn and Morel Cream Sauce
Suggested wine pairing: Cool-climate Merlot

DESSERT COURSE

Apricot Ginger Flan
Suggested wine pairing: Late harvest or Ice-style wine

WINE NOTES FROM LENN THOMPSON

Many thanks to Lenn Thompson from LENNDEVOURS for our Mother’s Day wine pairings. He has provided recommendations by varietal to make it easier for you. Simply take this menu into your local wine store for their recommendations.

Fennel, Orange and Zheresk Salad

Varietal: Sauvignon Blanc

Reasoning: Sauvignon Blanc is always a pair for citrusy-herbal salads because their flavor profiles are often similar, and their crispness can stand up to the acidity in citrus fruit.

Carrot and Ginger Soup

Varietal: Gewurtztraminer

Reasoning: Any time a recipe calls for ginger, I reach for a bottle of gewurtz, which literally means “spicy” in German. Rich and ripe with stone fruit and pineapple flavors, but racy, floral and minerally-crisp at the same time, it complements and enhances this flavorful spicy-sweet soup.

Duck Breast with a Green Peppercorn and Morel Cream Sauce

Varietal: Cool Climate Merlot

Reasoning: Pinot noir might seem the more classic pairing, but this medium-bodied, flavorful merlot, with its smooth, well-integrated tannins, red plum and cherry fruit character and subtle earthiness will take this hearty dish to new heights.

Apricot Ginger Flan

Varietal: Late Harvest or Ice-Style Wine

Reasoning: Too many sweet wines are heavy on the palate, but this one, made with frozen gewurtztraminer and sauvignon blanc grapes manages to be rich, unctuous and complex — all with a zing of palate-cleansing acidity. Lychee, honey, apricots, candied orange peel and sweet vanilla mingle on the palate. Perfect for this flan, it’s just as good on its own.

MISE EN PLACE

For those curious about the meaning of mise en place, it is a French culinary term for “set in place.” If you have ever watched a cooking show, or been inside a restaurant kitchen, you will notice that next to the cooking area, things are set up just so. Ingredients, sauces and critical elements are ready to be used, whether pre-cooked, pre-chopped, or ready as a garnish. This kind of organized setup enables a cook to focus on the actual act of cooking itself without distraction. Our intention with this section is to use the same approach at home, enabling you to host your own special occasions with flair.

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Easter Dinner Menu

Posted on 31 March 2010 by The Gilded Fork

If you have family gathering ’round the table for an Easter feast, might we suggest taking full advantage of spring’s bounty? The flavors and colors arriving to market right now offer a refreshing change to our dulled winter palates. This month’s wine pairings were inspired by the book from our friends Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page, What to Drink with What You Eat.

Fresh peas, lamb, beets and rhubarb…the flavors of spring. Colorful and bright, this month’s dishes are perfect for Easter dinner or any spring celebration.

APPETIZER
Mascarpone and Beet Napoleons with Walnut Oil
Suggested pairing: New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc
(See pairing notes below)

SOUP
Spring Pea Soup
Suggested pairing: New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc

MAIN COURSE
Roman Roast Leg of Lamb with Orzo
Suggested pairing: California Zinfandel or Cabernet

DESSERT
Anise Panna Cotta with Spiced Rhubarb
Suggested pairing: Moscato d’Asti or Late-Harvest Riesling

PAIRING NOTES

This month our pairings were inspired by the new book from Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page, What to Drink with What You Eat (click to buy it — we highly recommend it!). This must-have addition to your food library makes it simple to pair wines with your meals, and makes it all quite simple and easy to understand. You can listen to our interview with Andrew and Karen on Food Philosophy #34, where they talk about the inspiration for this tome that is taking the food world by storm.

Mascarpone and Beet Napoleons with Walnut Oil &
Spring Pea Soup

Varietal: New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc

Reasoning: Sauvignon Blanc is best paired with acidic foods, and a light-to-medium bodied New World wine like this is a nice balance for the acidity and sweetness of the beets. The citrusy nose will also nicely complement the lightness of the pea soup.

Roman Roast Leg of Lamb with Orzo

Varietal: California Cabernet or Zinfandel

Reasoning: Both of these California reds are a great match for the roasted lamb and garlic flavors. If you prefer bold, big, full-bodied reds, go with the Cabernet. If you want a more fruity, jammy pairing stick with the Zinfandel.

Anise Panna Cotta with Spiced Rhubarb

Varietal: Moscato d’Asti or Late-Harvest Riesling

Reasoning: The sweetness and bubbles of the Moscato d’Asti will complement the richness of the cream while offering a contrast to the tang of the spiced rhubarb. You can also pair this dessert with any sweet wine based on the Muscat grape. If Muscat wines are a bit too sweet for you, try a late-harvest Riesling instead.

MISE EN PLACE

For those curious about the meaning of mise en place, it is a French culinary term for “set in place.” If you have ever watched a cooking show, or been inside a restaurant kitchen, you will notice that next to the cooking area, things are set up just so. Ingredients, sauces and critical elements are ready to be used, whether pre-cooked, pre-chopped, or ready as a garnish. This kind of organized setup enables a cook to focus on the actual act of cooking itself without distraction. Our intention with this section is to use the same approach at home, enabling you to host your own special occasions with flair.

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About

Posted on 14 March 2010 by Jennifer Iannolo

Our mission is to celebrate the sensual pleasures of food. We’ve outlined that premise in our mission statement, but in short, we travel the planet exploring culture, history and tradition via the plate to learn the passion behind the flavors that excite us. Our audio & video programs, recipes, articles and interviews showcase the best of what we’ve discovered in an unending quest to fulfill our food desires.

Begun as online magazine The Gilded Fork in 2005, we expanded into multimedia in 2007 when we launched the world’s first all-food podcast channel, which eventually became the Culinary Media Network®. We have now returned to our original name (reason here), as we kinda dig the Gilded thing.

There is tons for you to enjoy on this site from our years of traveling and tasting, so we’ve put together a little overview below — there’s a whole lot of content. Even further below is a glimpse at who we are with links to all our contact information. We’d love to hear from you, as it is in the sharing of our passion and excitement for food that we find the most gratification, so we invite you to comment on all of our posts. Doing this work for a living is fun — but it’s in sharing it with you that we find the greatest rewards.

Here’s what you can find on this site:

  • Food, Wine & Travel Videos: Our CMN Travels video series features destinations around the world, from Indonesia to Colonial Williamsburg. Nominated for a Tasty Award in 2009 for Best Web Travel Series, our videos feature interviews with chefs and purveyors, food from street eats to 5-star restaurants, wines, spirits and historical venues. You can see all the posts, video and otherwise, from each destination from the “Travel & Places” drop-down menu in our navigation bar.
  • Audio Programs: Our podcasts look at various aspects of food (and all of the content above) in audio format, with shows including ReMARKable Palate, Food Philosophy, This Week in Food (formerly CHIC) and the Culinary Roundtable. You can see the archives for each individual show from the “Shows” drop-down menu in our navigation bar.
  • Cooking Courses: Launched in January 2010, our new Gilded Fork Cooking School features online cooking courses and how-tos. Chef Mark’s Knife Skills 101 is now live, along with other courses on entertaining. There is much to come in 2010, including Jennifer’s pet project, Bachelor’s Boot Camp.
  • Test Kitchen & Recipes: We have a collection of test kitchen dossiers on ingredients from apples to zucchini, including their history, cooking how-tos and recipes. Our entire recipe collection is listed by category for you to explore.
  • Gilded Fork Cookbook: In 2009 we released our first cookbook, The Gilded Fork: Entertaining at Home. Featuring a year of dinner party menus complete with extensive Chef’s Notes and beverage pairings, this cookbook is your ideal companion for inviting friends and family to dine in.
  • Gourmet Gifts: Our Gilded Fork Gourmet Boutique features some of our favorite finds, including Tondo balsamic vinegar, DoubleShot coffees, Allure Estates olive oil, Keres Spices and Sugardaddy’s brownies. We make it a point to know our vendors personally, as we want to find the best that’s out there and share it with you. In most cases we’ve also got an interview or article featuring our purveyors.
  • Other Culinary Musings: Our blogs posts, articles and interviews include our varied thoughts about cuisine and what’s happening in the world of food. We often share recaps of the events we attend, things that excite us personally, and even the things that make us rant.

We also offer consulting services in audio/video production, blog/web site creation and social media, from tutorials to strategic development and execution.

Here’s a brief glimpse at who we are, with links to our full bios:

Jennifer Iannolo
CEO / Editor-in-Chief

As a committed food philosopher, Jennifer founded The Gilded Fork in 2005 to celebrate the sensual pleasures of food. After spending a decade in the food industry and launching Relais & Chateaux’s Ecole des Chefs program with some of the world’s greatest chefs, she was eager to explore the passion that inspires people to choose food and wine as a metier. She was then introduced to one Chef Mark Tafoya, who was doing this newfangled thing called podcasting. Jennifer is a graduate of NYU’s Stern School of Business, and was featured in the New York Times bestseller Secrets of the Young & Successful. Full Bio

Chef Mark Tafoya
Executive Chef / Executive Producer

There are few people on earth who get as excited about food as Chef Mark. A dedicated culinary explorer, he is always ready (with camera in hand) to discover the next destination. As a personal chef, he is eager to express these discoveries in new flavors for his clients via his ReMARKable Palate Personal Chef Service. A former Broadway actor, Chef Mark began his podcast in 2005 to meld together his love of food and performing. When he met Jennifer, they put all of that together in one big pot and stirred. Chef Mark is a Yale graduate, and has been featured in numerous media outlets, including Bon Appetit magazine. Full Bio

Madeline Shores
Food Editor

Madeline is the keeper of sanity and organization around here, and helps to get us back on course when we are creatively running amok. An avid food blog stalker, she also takes care of our weekly blog roundup. We like her so much we’ve put her in charge of the soon-to-be-unveiled virtual test kitchen, so we hope she won’t make the elves cry. Madeline also really loves cheese, food writing and long walks on the beach. Full Bio


Kalle Guinn
Editorial Assistant

A recent shift from business suit to chef coat has immersed Kalle into the culinary world head-first. As a line chef and culinary school student, she finds that every day brings a new food adventure. And as our editorial intern, she explores and shares the pleasures of food with our Gilded Fork readers. When she is not ranting, raving or eating, she enjoys running, music, reading, and thinking about what to eat next. The conversation never ends, and that is the fun part. Full Bio


Chef Monica Glass
Pastry Princess

Unbridled passion is what has driven Monica to become a rising star among American pastry chefs. What started out with an internship to explore life in the kitchen has turned into a career, and Monica is now Pastry Chef at Eric Ripert’s 10Arts restaurant in Philadelphia. Most of the desserts featured on this site have come from the mind and palate of this talented young lady, dubbed the “Pastry Princess” when Jennifer could not stop swooning over her recipes. A graduate of Penn State, Monica is excited to launch her new blog in 2010, so get your palate ready for sugar and smiles. Full Bio

Tiffany Li
Editorial Assistant:Pastry

Tiffany began her culinary journey as a food columnist, and then took a trip on the apprentice train for awhile as a sous pastry chef, with a layover in teaching and education. Growing up surrounded by enriching memories, vivid smells and wondrous tastes, it was only natural that Tiffany’s pursuits in life are so heavily entwined with food today. The underlying foundation to all her pursuits is her enjoyment of sharing her edible adventures with others, and her adventures lead her here, where she is assisting the Pastry Princess in bringing sugar and smiles to all our lives. Full Bio

Teresa Finney
Newsletter Maven

A passionate food writer by night (she does that marketing thing by day), Teresa spends most of her time perfecting her sought-after mac n’ cheese recipe, thinking about ways to incorporate cilantro into every dish she makes, and not fretting too much over the fact that she has yet to make homemade bread that actually rises. Twitter brought her to the Gilded Fork team, and she is excited to combine her enthusiasm for social media with her love of all things culinary, as well as take our newsletters to the next level with compelling insider info from the test kitchen. Full Bio

Kelly Cline
Food Pornographer

When it comes to sumptuous, swoon-inducing food photography, nobody does it better than Kelly. Jennifer discovered one of her photos in 2005, and that has led to 5 years relationship of collaboration and friendship. Now recognized as a leading food photographer, Kelly has been featured in national magazines, on the Food Network, and in numerous cookbooks. Her passion is so contagious that she is now a correspondent for FOX News in Seattle. But we found her first. Full Bio

Lenn Thompson
Wine Pairing Dude

Lenn is the creator of Wine Blogging Wednesday and the New York Cork Report, and when we need pairings for our entertaining menus, he’s our go-to guy. His work has been recognized in numerous media outlets, incuding a nomination for Best Wine Blog in Saveur magazine’s 1st Annual Food Blog Awards. Full Bio

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Pass the Salt?

Posted on 11 March 2010 by Jennifer Iannolo

First they came for the foie gras.

Now, the self-appointed police of all things have decided to attack…salt. Yes, salt. That mainstay of cooking, that critical ingredient to every baker on the planet, and flavor enhancer to every dish that comes out of a kitchen, professional or otherwise.

Brooklyn Assemblyman Felix Ortiz, potentially the most unintelligent man related to food (or government) in any form, proposes in bill  A. 10129 that “No owner or operator of a restaurant in this state shall use salt in any form in the preparation of any food for consumption by customers of such restaurant, including food prepared to be consumed on the premises of such restaurant or off of such premises.”

Mr. Ortiz is single-handedly trying to destroy the restaurant industry by “acting for the public good.” I won’t even get into what he’s trying to do to our palates.

What Mr. Ortiz fails to understand is that salt is an essential component of cooking and flavor enhancement. In baking, it is a chemical necessity. But such things are irrelevant to legislators of his ilk, who are trying to save us from ourselves. Alas, this is simply the latest in the government’s attempt to tell us what we can’t do, and to regulate our health by means of being an evil Nanny.

Chefs are rightfully up in arms, but it is we, the people, who need to take action. Many will shake their heads and wonder why the government is doing such a thing, but then they’ll go back to working 60-hour weeks and forget that our lives and liberties are eroding before our very eyes, as we anxiously await the next episode of Desperate Housewives.

We have become so lazy and complacent as a culture that the government now finds it appropriate to introduce such measures, so the blame rests solidly on our shoulders. We did this. And we are the only ones who can undo it. Lest you think I’m being hyperbolic, I encourage you to brush up on American history, and pay attention to the evolution of the Nanny State.

If you are outraged by the actions of Mr. Ortiz — and I hope you are, I encourage you to start writing, start calling, and let the New York State legislature know that this bill is not only a waste of taxpayer dollars, but an infringement on our rights of the most insidious nature.

Now, some of you might say “but too much salt is unhealthy!” I have news for you: Firstly, if a chef is using that much salt, he isn’t going to be in business for long, because his guests won’t eat his food. It won’t taste good. Secondly, too much of anything is unhealthy, and that’s where we come in: We are the ones consuming, so we must pay attention to what’s going in our mouths. Eat too much salt over a lifetime and it may have adverse effects — but we are the ones holding the fork.

If the idea of the government rationing your food makes you bristle, recognize that much worse measures are not far away. Unless we act now. A coalition called My Food, My Choice has gotten together to fight such inanities — I’m signing up right this minute.

New York State Assembly (look up your assemblyman): http://assembly.state.ny.us/

Felix Ortiz
E-mail contact

District Office
404 55th Street
Brooklyn, NY 11220
718-492-6334

Albany Office
LOB 627
Albany, NY 12248
518-455-3821

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St. Patrick’s Day Feast

Posted on 09 March 2010 by The Gilded Fork

We originally featured this piece in our March 2006 coverage, but it’s always fun to revive great dinner ideas, and in this one, we decided to focus on the green theme that’s everywhere around St. Patrick’s Day without hauling out the tired old cliches of Corned Beef & Cabbage & the like. There is an updated version of this menu — complete with wine pairings and a Green Tea & Orange Mousse Cake — in our new cookbook, The Gilded Fork: Entertaining at Home.

————

Dinner parties have a tendency to inspire angst. What to serve? How to serve it? Will the recipes be too complicated? Can I fit it all in? We decided it’s time for a deep breath. With recipes that are simple yet elegant, we’ve concentrated on crafting enhanced flavors in some familiar dishes, keeping colors bright, textures intriguing, and preparation simple.

HORS D’OEUVRES

Avocado and Crab Timbales with Tobiko Roe Vinaigrette

FIRST COURSE

Asparagus and Spinach Soup with Yuzu Custard

MAIN COURSE

Pistachio Crusted Salmon with Bailey’s Irish Cream Sauce

DESSERT COURSE

Pistachio Ice Cream (see note below)

A NOTE ON DESSERT

We went back and forth on this, and decided that in the end, we recommend simply buying a high-quality pistachio ice cream. It can be fun to make one at home, but you do have lots of other items to prepare for this dinner party, and we are certainly not averse to buying products when they taste wonderful. We are fond of Haagen-Dazs®, but if you have a local ice cream maker, his or her creations might be even more of a treat. The main goal of serving this particular ice cream is to echo the pistachios in the salmon, which is one of our favorite ways to craft menus.

MISE EN PLACE

For those curious about the meaning of mise en place, it is a French culinary term for “set in place.” If you have ever watched a cooking show, or been inside a restaurant kitchen, you will notice that next to the cooking area, things are set up just so. Ingredients, sauces and critical elements are ready to be used, whether pre-cooked, pre-chopped, or ready as a garnish. This kind of organized setup enables a cook to focus on the actual act of cooking itself without distraction. Our intention with this section is to use the same approach at home, enabling you to host your own special occasions with flair.

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Mardi Gras Dinner Party

Posted on 02 February 2010 by The Gilded Fork

Note: This entire menu is featured in our Gilded Fork: Entertaining at Home cookbook.

Some call it Fat Tuesday, others Carnavale, but no city quite captures the essence of Mardi Gras like New Orleans. This month’s menu is spicy, rich and full of Nawlins flavor, so set a festive table, gather your friends and laissez les bon temps rouler!

Color. Texture. Spicy. Sweet. We never need an excuse to celebrate, but we took special advantage of this month’s opportunity.

FIRST COURSE

Bon Temps Crab Cakes with Rémoulade
Suggested pairing: Beer
(see Pairing Notes below for further details)

MAIN COURSE

Mardi Gras Chicken and Andouille Gumbo
Suggested pairing: Beer

New Orleans Red Beans and Rice

DESSERT

Mardi Gras King Cake

COFFEE

Café Brulot

PAIRING NOTES

Rather than feature wine pairings for this particular menu, we think beer is a better match. Given the spicy, rich flavors in these Mardi Gras recipes, light ales or lagers will provide balance to the overall flavor and texture impact of the meal.

After dessert, go for a flaming cup of Café Brulot, the famous coffee drink of the Big Easy.

MISE EN PLACE

For those curious about the meaning of mise en place, it is a French culinary term for “set in place.” If you have ever watched a cooking show, or been inside a restaurant kitchen, you will notice that next to the cooking area, things are set up just so. Ingredients, sauces and critical elements are ready to be used, whether pre-cooked, pre-chopped, or ready as a garnish. This kind of organized setup enables a cook to focus on the actual act of cooking itself without distraction. Our intention with this section is to use the same approach at home, enabling you to host your own special occasions with flair.

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Beer-Braised Beef Back Ribs

Posted on 24 January 2010 by Jennifer Iannolo

I see the mastering of lesser cuts of meat as the mark of a true cook. Let’s face it: Anyone can serve a decent filet mignon — there isn’t a whole lot of cooking involved. Given both the skyrocketing prices of food and the deep-seated need for me to master those lesser cuts, I have set out to master the art of braising. All-Clad was kind enough to send me a 6-quart saute pan to test from their new Stainless with d5 collection, so it is my new plaything (initial thoughts at the end of the post). I do love a pan that can go directly from stove top to oven, as it makes the cooking and cleaning easier.

There is something inherently comforting about slow-cooked, caramelized beef, but it takes a bit of patience — not my strong suit. Nevertheless, I reminded myself ahead of time that such patience would result in a luscious dinner.

The last time I made beef-back ribs I used an ale and finished them on the stove top, and used a small soup pot. This time I decided to go with a lager and finish them in the oven in the All-Clad pan. In this case I used Foster’s, as it was the only beer I could find in a single serving, and one can does the whole batch.

The beauty of these ribs is that they are mighty cheap. I bought two packs (about 12 ribs) for a total of $3.00. These are not to be confused with short ribs, which have the meat on top of the bones. These have the meat in between the bones, and are much cheaper. Now, I might be braising these slightly differently from the way others do, but I look at recipes as a guide. Feel free to adapt, add different flavors, or whatever you like.

Step 1: Caramelize the ribs.
This is the most critical part of the whole process, so don’t rush it. You want to really get some caramelization on these ribs before they are submerged in liquid, because it’s a major part of your flavor component. It will take about 20 minutes. Lightly coat the ribs with Kosher salt and a bit of pepper, get your pan really hot, add some olive oil, heat until it shimmers, and place your short ribs in the pan. Leave them alone.

While that’s happening, pre-heat your oven to 375 F. Resist the urge to move the meat around too much — let the magic happen.

Step 2: Add onions & garlic.
You can also add carrots here, but I forgot to grab one at the supermarket. It happens. Reduce your heat and add the onions and garlic. You may want to wait until the last few minutes to add the garlic because if it burns it will ruin the whole dish. I probably should have been a bit more patient here with the onions, but I added the garlic simultaneously and didn’t want to burn it. (This photo is before the onions had done their delicious sweating.)

Note: Some recipes call for removing the ribs, draining the fat from the pan, and starting with fresh oil to sweat the onions, garlic and other vegetables. I disagree, because in this case there wasn’t too much fat left, and I wanted the flavor.

Step 3: Add braising liquid, herbs & spices.
I added a giant can of Foster’s, some of the rosemary water I made the other day (not just for hair!), some ground coriander and a hint of Chinese five spice. (Add whatever spices tickle your fancy. For whatever reason, my mental mouth liked these.) Stir the liquid and scrape the bottom of the pan to loosen all the yummy bits. These are also important for flavor.

Step 4: Cover and place in a 375 F oven.
Now go away. For about 3 hours. You can check on the liquid periodically (I do so about every 30 minutes), but let the meat do its thing.

When the ribs are finished, the liquid will have reduced considerably, and the meat will be falling off the bone. You shouldn’t need a knife to cut it apart. Note: This is when you should check the salt flavor in the dish. I tend to go easy on the salt in the beginning, because as the juice reduces the flavors become intensified, and too much salt will ruin it.

Step 5: Serve over something starchy and delicious.
Some people serve these with potatoes or rice, but I am a huge fan of egg noodles. I like the way they slide over my tongue and slither down my throat. Once I remove the bones and there is nothing but meaty goodness, I like to slather this over a pile of noodles and lose myself in silky, meaty goodness.

Verdict on the All-Clad Stainless with d5 saute pan:

My sentiments about cookware and sports cars are the same: I want sleek design and superior performance. This pan did not disappoint. All-Clad has incorporated some really smart design elements into this collection, including little touches that make for easier logistics, such as lid handles that can accommodate hands wearing oven mitts, cool handles on the pan should you forget said oven mitt (I have done so) and a pouring rim all the way around the edge. The pan is also quite light despite its enormous 6-qt. size.

Most important for me, however, is the even cooking across the surface of the pan. I had ribs inside and outside, and expected to have to move them around so the inner ones wouldn’t burn, but caramelization transpired in harmony for all the ribs. Glee.

Cleanup with this pan was also effortless, even with caramelized gooey goodness all over the pan and lid. I will be experimenting much more with this pan, so I’ll share further thoughts as they occur.

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Southwestern Thanksgiving Menu

Posted on 22 November 2009 by The Gilded Fork

If you are hosting the Thanksgiving festivities this year, perhaps you’re feeling the need for a little twist on tradition. (Let’s face it: the same old menu gets boring after a few decades.) Chef Mark has featured Southwestern flavors for our version, imparting the tastes and aromas he savored as a young lad. (P.S. If you have a smaller gathering than, say, Jennifer’s twenty-five-ish guests, this is an ideal alternative to cooking a full turkey.)

A dash of chipotle, a touch of Hatch chile, and a whole lot of flavor accent Chef Mark’s twist on Thanksgiving dinner.

TURKEY

Southwestern Stuffed Turkey Breast
Suggested pairing: Pinot Noir
(see Pairing Notes below for further details)

TRIMMINGS

Chipotle Mashed Sweet Potatoes
Suggested wine pairing: Off-Dry Riesling

Calabacitas

DESSERT

Apple and Cinnamon Empanadas
Suggested wine pairing: Moscato d’Asti


WINE PAIRING NOTES

Since you might decide to use the entire menu above, or incorporate one or two of the recipes into your traditional menu, our wine pairing expert Lenn Thompson has offered several options for you below.  For more notes about Lenn’s other wine explorations, visit his LENNDEVOURS blog.

Southwestern Stuffed Turkey Breast

Pairing: Pinot Noir

Reasoning: Pinot Noir is a classic pairing with Thanksgiving dinner and it still works here. The red berry flavors and slightly tart acidity mimic the cranberry sauce that is so popular with turkey, while the light body won’t overpower the delicate turkey. Because of the chiles and spices, a plush, fruity style of Pinot Noir works best, so look to California or Oregon rather than Burgundy.

Chipotle Mashed Sweet Potatoes

Varietal: Off-Dry Riesling

Reasoning: Riesling is another tried and true Thanksgiving accompaniment. The balanced acidity of well-made off-dry riesling will balance the sweetness of the sweet potatoes, while the wine’s sweetness tames the flames of the fiery chiles. Top U.S. rieslings come from the Finger Lakes region of New York and the Pacific Northwest.

Calabacitas

Varietal: Sauvignon Blanc

Reasoning: If you are using the recommended autumn squash in this dish, the off-dry Riesling from above will pair nicely. However, for the summer squash version, the citrus fruit flavors will go well with the combination of summer squash, corn, beans, cilantro and tomatoes. A ripe, fruity Californian will work (as long as you avoid those that have been aged in oak) but an herbaceous bottle from New Zealand would work as well. Note: Sauvignon Blanc is one of my favorite foils for vegetable dishes.

Apple and Cinnamon Empanadas

Varietal: Moscato d’Asti

Reasoning: At the end of a long, filling Thanksgiving meal, steer clear of high alcohol, heavy dessert wines. Instead, pick up an always-affordable, slightly fizzy Moscato d’Asti. The light effervescence will balance the fried crust while significant fruit and floral flavors enhance the delicious filling. And, most Moscato is around 5% alcohol, so you’ll be able to enjoy the rest of your day.

MISE EN PLACE

For those curious about the meaning of mise en place, it is a French culinary term for “set in place.” If you have ever watched a cooking show, or been inside a restaurant kitchen, you will notice that next to the cooking area, things are set up just so. Ingredients, sauces and critical elements are ready to be used, whether pre-cooked, pre-chopped, or ready as a garnish. This kind of organized setup enables a cook to focus on the actual act of cooking itself without distraction. Our intention with this section is to use the same approach at home, enabling you to host your own special occasions with flair.

This menu was originally published in 2006.

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The Good Host: Grace Under Fire

Posted on 17 November 2009 by Jennifer Iannolo

Note: This article is a companion to our Gilded Fork: Entertaining at Home cookbook. With 13 dinner party menus, and the tips you’ll find in this and our other entertaining articles, we’ve done a lot of the work for you. Sally forth!

There is a certain art to being a good host, and it is one that is cultivated after what is likely trial-by-fire. You have learned that even the largest catastrophes can be met with a sense of humor, flexibility, and a little creative flair.

But how do you get to that happy place? The answer is not to be found in the bottom of a martini glass (ok, not always). Instead, it is to be found in planning well, being able to think on your feet, and putting the comfort of your guests at the top of the priority list. Even if your recipes turn out quite differently from what you had planned, your guests will remember how delightful you were as a gracious host.

Remember: Elegant does not have to mean complicated. There is beauty inherent in doing things simply, but doing them well, and it doesn’t require lots of frill and fuss. To use a cooking analogy, if you create an ornate dish with mediocre ingredients, the results will still be, well, mediocre. A simpler dish with top-quality ingredients, however, will stay in the memories of your guests long after the plates have been cleared.

That is the entire premise of our Mise en Place section, where you can find elegant menus that are not overly fussy, but that evoke beautiful flavors and use the art of food styling to elevate your presentation. (In fact, that section was the predecessor to our cookbook, which has more meat to it.) Such little touches turn an ordinary dinner party into a memorable occasion, and when combined with ambiance and good company, you can’t go wrong.

What will keep you most calm during all of this, of course, is good planning, which is why we have created a list of tips that we use to plan, as well as some templates for your organization. (Yes, we really, really want you to use them.)

If you wish to become better versed in the rules of dining etiquette, we highly recommend the grande dame of such endeavors, Emily Post. Her Advice for Every Dining Occasion is invaluable for understanding what fork to use for which course, and how to handle such dilemmas as inebriated guests, etc. It is somewhat hard to find now, but if you can get your hands on a copy, save it forever.

Guest Lists

Clearly, this is a critical part of being a good host, as your guests can make or break an event. Does the crowd consist of a group of fun-loving friends, or is it perhaps a small group of serious colleagues from the office?

When we create a guest list for our own parties, we try to ensure it includes at least several people with wonderful personalities who can liven up the room, as well as assist in making sure no one is left sitting by him/herself.

Obviously there are times when you will not have much choice in selecting the attending crowd, as it may be a party specifically for colleagues or a certain social group. In said case, prepare for the Party Hound, the Wallflower, the Drama Queen, and the rest. If you know in advance how to handle these colorful personalities, you will be less stressed when confronted with their expected behavior.

It is best to give as much advance notice as possible, understanding that most people have schedules as full as yours. Your invitations should be in hand at least two weeks before the party to give people time to respond, but if this isn’t possible, don’t panic. Thankfully there is now the possibility of e-mailed invitations through sites like www.evite.com, so there is no worry about delays from sluggish postal systems. However, for guests who haven’t quite gotten the hang of the electronic age, or for those with a true sense of aesthetic appreciation, there is nothing quite like a handwritten invitation. We like Kate’s Paperie and Papyrus for unusual, luxurious invitations.

We always request an RSVP for our events with at least four days of advance notice, whether for a cocktail party or sit-down dinner, as there is really no other way to finalize how much food to prepare. You can always count on a few people to just show up, as well as others to be no-shows; this is inevitable, but if you are well-prepared, these “surprises” should not put a damper on the affair. If it makes you more comfortable, request a confirmation a full week in advance.

In the case of a sit-down, plated dinner party, it is absolutely essential that guests RSVP, as well as show up on time. The worst possible thing a guest can do is interrupt the flow of a plated meal.

The best way to avoid this scenario is to state clearly on the invitation:

Champagne and hors d’oeuvres from 7:30 to 7:55 PM. First course served promptly at 8:00.

Formal, yes, but you’ll be thankful. And if a guest does arrive late, seat him and have him begin with whatever course you are serving — it is not your obligation to go back and prepare anything he has missed.

Our Favorite Mantras

As we also stated in our Survival Guide, there are a few mantras we use when putting on our aprons to prepare a feast for guests. We suggest memorizing them.

• Remember to take deep breaths; freaking out never helped any situation, no matter what the
disaster.

• You are not attempting to reinvent the wheel. You are throwing a party.

• Think on your feet. There is always a solution, so get as creative as you need to. No one else
needs to know — they only see the final result.

• If you absolutely run out of time, or cannot find an ingredient, we will not send you to culinary
purgatory for purchasing pre-made items. Do try, however, to keep such items to pastries,
crudités, and more complicated dishes like terrines and pâtés.

• Do not pickle yourself with cocktails before attempting to cook. Not only will your palate be
deadened, but flames, knives, and alcohol are never a good mix. Trust us on that one.

• Repeat after us: “A little Type-A goes a long way.”

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